FRUSTRATING! Also - NEW PROJECT REVEAL! Corvette C4 ZR-1 Barn Find Restoration Rebuild Part 8 

I like that you are methodical in your approach to all this. I am a retired tech now, but I have worked on a lot of corvettes, most 5th gen units. The engines of the c4 are my least favorite to work on personally, having to remove the intake to get to other things in example. The engine running rough can be a fuel issue. There may be sediment in the system that has come loose and ruined the new fuel filter or even clogged one or more of the injectors. An easy start is to check pressure at the rail then moving onward. For the c5, my shop had a special license to do salvage rebuilds on them, and I have rebuilt at least 2dozen of them. I am intimately familiar with their electrical systems in particular. I imagine from the c4, you have learned that starting with the charging system is a time saving bit of wisdom. Bench testing the alternator and battery then looking at the primary cables at each end is always wise with a car that has been stored for an extended period first. Pulling the spark plugs and using the boriscope to see the condition of the cylinder walls is wise to avoid buying parts for what may be a derelict engine. I would also check for signs of water damage in case the car has been under water, which will necessitate a completely different approach to any restoration attempt. In regards to the no connection to ecu errors, it’s always possible that the ecu is faulty, or that a previous owner thought it was but replaced with one that was not programmed for that VIN. There are many multipoint connectors in the electrical system with many small pin connections. Those can look good at first glance, but the internal snaps that hold them in place can be broken. If in doubt, remove the back end plastic keeper then the rubber buffer that keeps it dry should pull out, then carefully grab a single wire and see if it pulls out of the back of the connector easily. Do that with every wire in the connector obviously then you can verify the truly good. There is a sizable bulkhead box on the right side of the floorboard inside the car, about where the toes of a passenger is. There are hundreds of connections there. On a 98 c5 I worked on, the car had an impact on the right side front. We did the body work and replaced the snapped control arm etc, but it had many electrical issues. The firewall of the car appeared unscathed but the wires leading to that bulked are very short with zero slack. The impact pulled the wires rather hard and it turned out that the junction box I mentioned was cracked and many of the small wires were pulled out. The small metal pins that clip into the various connections, there MANY kinds of them in each c5, even though they all look the same. If you have to get some, it is highly advisable to buy a large quantity of each size and type, or you may end up wasting a lot of time with electrical repairs. The most important wires in the harness are violet and violet with white stripe for the keyed and unkeyed positive connections. GM calls it violet but it is a distinctly periwinkle color btw. Thank you for inviting us on this journey with you both!

Lads you are doing a great job, don’t give up, we petrol heads are proud of you guys.

⏩️⏩️⏩️Using my ladies phone but my name is Curtis and own a 91 ZR-1 ......She's been in the shop for paint for way to long but living vicariously through your build .....my car was over 120k miles when i bought her so did lots of restorations thanks to Jerry's Gaskets after purchase and more to do after paint ....but age and mileage isn't something that most owners face but I have....the O2 sensors will help but one problem I had that I think your fighting now is the dried out wiring going to your tps.... what I discovered after being warm during cornering would toss up codes disengage full power mode then sometimes would die and not restart .... seems like the factory shape of the wires going to tps and heat dried out the wires then during excessive g's the plug flexes around spreading out the contacts giving intermediate function. I found this one night in the dark after it acted up and I had no tools with me ...limped her home de-pinned the plug, cleaned each pin with contact cleaner and scratched up the female connectors and tightened up the gaps and problem solved. Mine still has an intermittent problem during hard pulls 3rd 4th and 5th in beast mode where it tosses a code and then disengagement of full power happens. If I can't get it fixed after getting back from paint the brick of an ecu will be changed for a holley ecu ... One other problem I had was the full power vac system the solenoid beside the Ford/ferrari vacuum canister yes has a Ford part number would leak so I replaced it with a factory unit and same problem so replaced with a boost solenoid from a 300zx which doesn't have a bleed problem and way more robust but did have to place an inline bleed after the full power mode map sensor over next to the brake booster . Now use some silicone on your vacuum pump because the new one will fail soon and please change out 2 things for me first is that Chinese pulley on the alternator. Hopefully you have a ZR-1 unit they pump out more amps than normal Chevy units but the rpms of this motor you will over spin the alternator and could result in a fiery death . Next before driving any distance change out the radiator . I blew the tank off mine at around 7k rpm one night .... yeah my girl gets used . Radiators are good but 35 year old plastic is not ... I replaced mine with a deWitts and used the factory fans with extra spacers and sealed up the sides also run two bottles of water wetter.....yes Hella expensive but 100plus days in the south and car never goes over 180 ... ill check back later but respond to this and I'll get you my phone number ...best of luck curtis Also walbro 255's will work in tank and not over run system and extra ground wires can't hurt these lt5's love electricity....⏮️⏮️

These videos remind me working on my first car when 16, on the street in Aberdeen. Mk3 Cortina, superlegera, because it was 50 % fibreglass and rust.

No garage and restoring a car that requires parts from across an ocean? That's some next level dedication but the end product will be well worth it.

Well done guys, yes it is a lot of work fixing and filming these videos, editing them and getting them out on schedule. Continued success with your channel.👍

It's well on the way now. Keep up the good work.

Hello guys Thanks for a great series if I can call it that. But I am hooked on this Corvette. Was just wondering, I understand your limited space but was wondering if you should look at putting up an awning roof over the car. Just to keep it out of the elements a bit....especially after this poor girl has been exposed to so much already

Great show watching from Melbourne Australia.

Been watching this series closely. I have no experience with a restoration like this but its super interesting and has sparked a real interest in american cars for me

Really appreciate the video quality guys.

Brilliant guys love it love your attention to detail with this build. Can’t believe how well inner arches came up loving this build guys well done. Coming along nicely now 👍🏽

Coming along nicely guys, looking forward to your next video. All the very best. Tim

Progressing nicely guys! You're not wrong about how much longer it takes when you're filming the work! Keep up the good work! That suspension would look even more amazing with a wee bit of aluminium brightener on it - especially up front. 👌

You guy's do amazing job with which you have. Most of the people who do the same things you do. Have a large garage and all the fancy tools. Tell you one thing you must have very sore knees with all the kneeling you do on the gravel. But hay little by little things will get a lot better for you both. Just keep doing what your doing. 😊

You all are doing a great job! So much rust and corrosion! And working in a driveway, best wishes for continued success!

just an idea if you can get access to a lift and a high temp pressure washer you might be able to blast alot of the rust off of the frame and other metal componets of that car. i have done that on a couple of my cars

Keep it up fellas. Great content.

If it has a bad sensor it should throw a code , need to hook up and see what it says , before throwing parts at it

I envy you guys....working to bring the old ZR1 back to it's former Glory....It will be a rewarding car to drive. One thing that stands out on your export car is the rear lights. The Black Paint pulls it off so well with the amber turn signals. Not sure other colors could. Looks so cool. Really enjoy your videos and Great job to you both! Thanks for Sharing, I can vicariously work on what is to me the quintessential Chevrolet Corvette!

Haha, love the Big Bam Boom, Hall and Oates T shirt. Love that album!!

Another enjoyable video. Slowly making progress.

Thoroughly enjoying the updates . Amazing what a deep clean can achieve . Looking forward to seeing it with tyres and wheels .

some rough prices of items / refurbs etc would be great

It needs a run. Get the running gear sorted and drive it. Obviously ALL FLUIDS need changing. So good to see all the ZR1 enthusiasts are tuning in to give you advice. I'm my humble opinion keep it stock, original paint colour if you need to repaint it. It's very special £$£$

Really enjoying the videos. I recommend Doug Rippie coilovers for your zr1. They are a game changer.

Top job lads

Just watching now, oh! she is being a minx, making you work for it :) the *red* C5, yeah wonky panel fitting, defo needs a respray, to something interesting, like a lime green or vivid orange but thats just me. Probably back to silver.

Good luck lads. Really enjoying your videos. Keep them coming cheers Paul starting to really like Corvettes.

Huge progress boys! Mental how much a wee clean can help

hey guys, another great video, you need to get a cheap scope to test that cam sensor

Put the brakes back on, fit new tyres and go for a good hard drive......it'll probably start running better. I still don't understand how the previous owner left a car like this to rot in a paddock under damp UK weather. Love the content gentlemen, I hope she runs well for you.

What we used to say about making sure we are having plenty of spare anything to make sure you don't say run out of cable or pipe, we would say it's better to be looking at it then for it.

Great job guys you're doing very well always watch your videos

Great work, love the content. I owned a C3 corvette in black. Always love Corvettes and the ZR1 is a very special car. Keep up the good work.

Great videos, how about using the cam sensor off the red one as a test?

Boom! Pop pop pop!

I'm loving this series of videos about the ZR-1. Just a thought - how about painting the brake calipers? I understand if you don't want to, but I think it might just elevate the car that little bit more.

Hi Boys!!! I’m loving the videos on the Corvette. I don’t know if your Corvette came with the OPTISPARK system, but if it did, it might be a good idea to check that. Cheers!! Keep up the great work!!

Great video!keep up the good work!greetings from Romania!

Hi guys Whst products did you use to clean material parts when scrubbing with the wire brush. Looks very efficient product

Don't do black on that other car! Why waste the money on a color change when it will be a track car. Spend it on SUSPENSION, brakes, oil cooling and tires...it's a track car...right? Then, when you are ready, maybe upgrade the power a bit. Painting it is a waste of money, JMO of course. Love the honest content you guys are doing, and doing it in the front yard on gravel gives you extra cred. lol, that is passion and youth for sure. Carry on lads!

The nice thing about aluminium parts is how easily they clean up and don't need paint to look tidy.

_A quick look into the abyss_ ~ and the abyss took a long look into you!

Great video guys your good a fine job with them. Good progress with zr1 Leave the new one as a rat look, put your cash into suspension & power

Why not put those black wheels (from your new project car) onto the black ZR-1, just to see what a 'Trans-Am Knight-Rider' style full-black-look might create? Gotta be worth the experiment, surely!

You need either the 5 spoke forged zR1 wheels or the black ones from the grand sport!

I am enjoying your build. If you need to borrow parts off my non running one I would be happy to help you out. I won't need them until I start work on it again.

You’re doing great lads! Keep going!

Colour !!

Oh and under those wheel arches ? Reminded me of my student flat days 😁, by God we were poor

You should install the plate that guy sent you, it’s to bypass something with the fuel, I fully didn’t catch what it was and I’m not gonna rewatch the vid… but it might fix the misfire… MAYBE, probably not, and he had your guys pic on his wall, that’s awesome.

Paint the new one pink and blue like your AF logo 🙂🙂🙂 Hmm maybe not, or maybe a wrap using elements of the houndstooth pattern in silver/black...

Will you remove the foam in the hood? Never seen that before

A plugged exhaust will give you a crappy running motor also.

Great channel ,your approach to problem solving is the right way to go,only gripe stop ruining fred perry tops working on cars ha ha

I believe you need a GM TECH1 obd reader to access the fault codes on the lt5 engine . I don't think the paperclip obd trick works like on the regular c4 v8's fault code that let's you read them on the dash . I may be wrong , there are video's on RU-vid showing how it's done . Best of luck

Keep moving forward! Idea - instead of doing a “Super-chat” that RU-vid steals 33% of, can you possibly get with Rock Auto and get them to set-up a process where we can buy you a gift card or credit on your account? I can’t contribute a lot but I would like to contribute something that goes 100% to you. What does everyone think?

Other than replacing other sensors, what has you fixated on the cam sensor? If the cam sensor works like a crank sensor, the car probably won't run at all. Have you tested it, and the other sensors that were replaced? Its pretty unlikely that all the engine sensors failed at the same time. Don't parts cannon it, diagnose.

Great stuff, guys. I'm no expert, but I read in a classic car magazine that copper brake lines are too soft.

Come on lads, if it's going to be a non standard car with track day use, be able to see it coming. Think bold colours. Personally, I'd go yellow.

zr1 restore it properly ! the red corvette c5 ? needs to be restored as well how do these cars end up like this especially the zr1 ???

👌👌

Check for bad grounds and moisture/ corrosion in the ecu and other modules. Wiring has not looked great so far…

Idea for the C5; the limit to what is legal road use, so it's more fun on the track. Edit: not sure about black paint, it shows up EVERY problem with the body-work.

Hmmm 🤔 Chris ? Receive 😁, Better too much than not enough 😁, your very naughty boys 😂😂👌🏻

Have you tried to contact Jared Pink of the Questionable Garage on RU-vid? He is extremely knowledgeable and expert engine builder, but also he has a huge number of good contacts such as Freddie Tavarish, Travis Bell, Tyler Hoover and many many other garages

Copper work hardens and is subject to corrosion. KUNIFER is definitely the best choice. Copper is easier to work with especially with the tool you are using. And if we are being honest, will do the job for a few years. But if you were looking for something that would outlast the other jobs you were doing, KUNIFER would be the choice. Really enjoying your content - I’m going through a few projects at the moment from an XJS V12 sitting for 36 years to a couple of Jensen Interceptors and a few more. Great cadence - you are smashing through this project!

Cool watch , like yellow dial , looks very smart , is Casio ?

Yellow color will work

I got frustrated with my "Turbine" wheels because you couldn't see the brakes or how wide the wheels are and swapped them out for some 94/95 five spoke wheels. As you can see you have 4 different wheels, originally they came fitted with Goodyear GSCs that were also asymmetric so you had to buy 4 different tyres as well. What a spot of luck having a viewer reach out and send you a chip, you will notice the difference.

clean the surface where the cam sensor reads from

Can you borrow the cam sensor from either your working red one or the other one you bought recently? Or are they different engines ?

Copper tubing should not be used for brake lines in automotive applications. Here are the primary reasons why: Material Compatibility: Copper is not compatible with brake fluid. Brake fluid is typically either DOT (Department of Transportation) fluid or mineral oil. Both of these fluids can corrode copper over time, leading to potential leaks or brake system failures. Strength and Durability: Brake lines are subjected to high pressure and mechanical stress during braking. Copper tubing is softer and less durable compared to steel tubing, which is the standard material used for brake lines. Copper can deform or rupture under these conditions, compromising the safety and reliability of the braking system. Safety Concerns: Brake lines must meet stringent safety standards to ensure reliable operation under all conditions. Using materials not designed for this purpose can lead to brake failure, loss of braking efficiency, and potential accidents. Therefore, it is crucial to use brake lines made from materials specifically designed and approved for automotive brake systems, such as steel or specific types of flexible hoses designed for brake fluid compatibility. These materials ensure the safety and reliability of the brake system, which is critical for vehicle operation.

Get the mechanicals sorted so it’s fast, handles well and reliable, rat the exterior… find an old US race series colour scheme and make it look like it’s done a 24h race

Re: the red C5, something about the front fenders seems off, either badly fitted, or some sort of weird wide body pieces (I have a '99).

I get how much of a pain in the ass it is to work with cameras and do work at the same time. I know you guys are new, but it seems like you’ve been doing it for a while. Great job.!

I’m thinking copper brake lines will not pass a strict MOT 🤔

Def colour change……repair or replace front end? On C5……. Was the drivers seat a toilet😂😵‍💫👌🏽 Once you get into it…… there might be more problems…..brings it a stolen recovered…..I hope not🤞🏼

I think the new project should have an air-ride kit installed,although I’ll admit it’s not that cheap,but how cool would it look when you pull up and drop it,matt grey and orange detailing always looks good for American muscle cars in my opinion,enjoying the videos lads,love and peace from Ireland

I wouldn't trust the mileage on the red 1. Looks like its done alot

Bilt Hamber UC would be better than Lanoguard

I’m disappointed that Chris had no Derekisms on this video lol😂

I'm a parts expert. Give me five minutes, when i get to work Monday. Any numbers on the old sensor please

What makes me chuckle everytime is the statement, "if you want to see more content like this then hit that subscribe button" So if I dont hit it I will be excluded from the next video? I hit it anyway but just a thought LOL as everyone sayt he same thing!!

Tidy the bodywork and DIY wrap it.

Return it to it's original colour.

Does your neighbour wait for you to start filming so he can get his lawnmower out🤷‍♂️😂

What’s has happened to this once GREAT BRITAIN 🇬🇧 that again we have to call on America 🇺🇸 to bail us out with a Cam Sensor 😂, very apt that it’s “ D -Day “ week 😁, USA 🇺🇸, USA 🇺🇸, USA 🇺🇸 LOL 😂.

Do NOT bypass your throttle valve heater. There is no discernible performance gain and you risk ice build up in humid conditions just above and below freezing temperatures. This is a real risk and not a hypothetical thing. Armchair tuners somehow came to the conclusion that you would be heating up inlet air massively by making your throttle housing a bit warmer, but obviously failed to do actual measurements to prove their theory. Car manufacturers know what they are doing when putting this money costing and complexion adding thing on. There is no emissions or noise benefit to adding it, it IS purely for safety. They don't advertise for it, like they do with crash test results or numbers of air bags, it is purely functional and they could make more profit or "free horsepower" (if that was to be gained) if they would omit it.

that "toy" really need bigger wheels they look tiny

Grrr!! Why can’t you tubers just do one car at a time. It’s really frustrating when they chop and change between projects.

Scrapp it

For gods sake take your watch off when working otherwise you’ll get your hand stuck in the engine bay or scratch the face to hell 😩

Just put it into the dustbin and walk away. Great videos but this is painful

Also, smoke test for a vacuum leak.

You can bench test the cam sensor, it's basically a hall effect sensor. I have a feeling that maybe your timing may have skipped a tooth and perhaps that is why the car was parked. Just shooting from the hip here.

😂😂😂😂 ... so many cobwebs .. Its like a Haunted House ... omd .. such dullards 😂😂😂

Another garbage video ! Kinda the highlight of my week now ! 😂 very entertaining....