www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1753958-would-a-faulty-tank-selector-valve-cause-the-eec-to-cut-power-to-the-fp-relay.html Post number 8 at this thread has testing information on the selector valve.
John, I'm the OP KarlJay. I'm trying to fix my selector valve. The two rods move freely, but the two valves on the other side have lost their O rings. The 0.5 PSI anti siphon and the 20 PSI diverter valve. I'm trying to figure out how to get the O rings back in place. I can't tell if those valves come out from the body or not. I didn't find your part 2, is there any way you can tell me how to get to those two valves on the other side and what that hole nearest the pickup tube is for. Mine is packed with something and I can't tell if it's supposed to be clear or not, your's looks like a clear thru hole. @10:38 I can see a black O ring in the bottom, mine had a green one there and the black one coming out of the valve.
I'm assuming that Ford never intended that part to be serviceable/rebuildable since plastic does not last forever; generally degrades and becomes brittle; especially soaked in gasoline which is why yours broke I'm sure. Better to just replace a part like that with a new one. BTW; the clip you are referring to as a "C-clip" is actually an "E-clip"; they both accomplish the same thing but E-clips are made to be removed with a flat screwdriver and, generally, C-clips require C-clip pliers. Thanks for breaking into that for us. I threw mine away as it no longer functioned. I also broke the plastic retaining clips that secured the fuel lines to that aparatus; luckily those are replaceable.
that compression piston with the spring part on it is what sticks....lubricate the snot out of it, reassemble and should be good as new. there's another video of a mechanic doing this. that plate that was attached to the orange diaphram was left on the 2 pins coming out of the top of it in his video.
For anyone having an issue with the O-rings in the bottom: plug all the holes and run about 100 psi of air and it blows it out and you can grab it and slide the O-ring back on. Only worked on the non return side for me. Hope this helps someone
@@johnd.9145 So I plugged the fuel inlets for both tanks. Earplugs and electrical tape. Whatever works. And then there’s the outlet that goes to the engine. Plug that one too. And then there’s the two holes in the plastic body. Cover those with electrical tape. Then you gotta remove that valve for the fuel side and I cut up a heater hose and jammed it in and stuck the air hose in the other. Hope that helps. If not maybe I can make a video and put it on my channel.
I had the same problem with selector valve leakage on my 87 F150. After looking at the mess ford made of the fuel system, looking at the cost of new parts, I put in 3/8 stainless lines to a real brass 3 way valve. That ford selector valve was designed by an idiot (on LSD). No more fuel system troubles. BONUS Turn the valve to the 3rd unused position and if someone tries to steal it, there is only the gas in the float bowls.
Hey I have a 1986 and I am getting some leakage due to the same thing I’m sure , I have a 1986 f150 these reservoirs seem to be identical what’s your thoughts on that? I haven’t found any videos that show this issue related to a 1986.
Hoping you do part 2... I had the same small o-ring issue on the bowl side. it was pinched (half in half out) of the round passage with the spring loaded valve, again on the bottom (bowl side). Can't get figure out how to get reseated or if it even goes there or got sucked in??? Mine's an 1986, don't think the ones they sell work because the fuel line fittings are different. Thanks, Jon
I'm sure there's a way to bypass this valve, but I don't know the details of how to do it. If you have two fuel tanks, you'll need some way to switch between them.
It sounds to me like people have successfully deleted the reservoir by adding a later model in tank fuel pump. I'm pretty sure the 88 in tank fuel pumps were low volume and the reservoir kept the high pressure pump from running out of fuel and also contained a check valve to keep fuel from draining away from the engine. The newer in tank pumps were high pressure and had a check valve built in. Their technical name is fuel delivery module.
Hello sir. I have an 87 f150 and decided to remove the front (smaller) tank due to rust and damage. The car was running great before I removed it (just had a large leak). I did not replace it and instead want to only run of the rear tank (I dont need both cause it is a ranch truck). What I did was I closed off the two fuel lines that went to that front tank with some extra fuel line hose, a screw, and a how clamp. When I started to just try running off the rear tank I had bad performance issues and the car would start acting weird and then shut off after 20 minutes of driving. Im thinking that maybe I need to change the fuel tank selector valve to something else. Do you know what could be causing my problems?
Because these selector valves are expensive, I would suggest joining a forum and asking the question there. Here's a link from a forum. www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/66025-2
There is an internal valve that is opened by fuel pressure. I think that's where that o ring goes. I'll try to find a link to a forum where it is discussed. I haven't gotten back to working on this valve.
