Thank you for this video, Booray. 😊 Last week I sold my X-T5 and decided to get the X-H2 mainly being able to access C1-C7 custom slots right from the PSAM dial. Even with the Smallrig extended grip I found my new Sigma 100-400mm lens to be too much for the X-T5. On the X-H2, I find the grip is much better for my large hands and the Sigma lens feels so much better. I'm noticing how much better the EVF is on the X-H2 as well. It's because of this video that I redid all the command dial setups for P, S, A, M on my Fujifilm X-H2. Like you suggested, I remapped the ISO button to be a FRONT COMMAND DIAL SWITCH to switch between numbers 1-3. In all shooting modes (P, S, A, M) number 4 is always ISO mapped to the rear command dial. I wanted to be consistent between all shooting modes. Though, I mostly shoot in aperture priority.
@@politicallyincorrectpuppy I saw that! Thank you! I recently re-mapped my ISO back to the button because I found that I was hitting it by accident. Then, I mapped it back to the dial because I was sick of having to hit the button. :)
That is so cool being able to set a button to switch which function the front dial does. With my X-T5 I normally shoot with shutter and aperture in manual with auto ISO. Two of my five lens are Sigma without an aperture ring. So I have aperture on the front, shutter on the back and then use the exposure comp dial to get the exposure I need to not blow out highlights. I have an H2S on the way and being able to toggle the front dial with a button will solve my issue when using those lens.
I just bought the X-HS and I could not believe those dials didn't work in manual. I AM SO HAPPY THEY DID THIS! Thank you so much for explaining it and letting me know!
The firmware update was great, but the description / manual Fujifilm offers isn't. Without your explanation, it's hard to understand how to setup the settings for the dials. Thanks.
I haven't installed the new firmware update yet for my X-H2. I use the ISO button on top for ISO, my rear command dial for shutter speed, and my front command dial for aperture. Now it's just like my X-S10.
Great update! I almost bought into the Fuji system several years ago for their “kaizen” ethos, but Fuji seemed to have really slacked off (especially compared to Nikon). Back when testing the X-T4, the clickable dials were a revolutionary addition that drew me to their handling. When I saw your video on its removal from the X-H2, I chose to just stay with my A7IV. The Fuji eco-system overall is the best for my family of 8. All my kids have the amazing Bridge FinePix (used) platforms and love Fujis menus, colors, filters etc (as do I). The 40mp sensor is the 1st Fuji that really has the rez I prefer for landscapes. Excited to see this update, work around, and Fuji’s support. Fuji may underestimate how important their former level of Kaizen was for brand loyalty and attracting new users. Thanks again!
since you asked @9:20 - Autorotate Displays is only partially functional. When rotating between landscape and portrait orientation, the indicators on the LCD _do_ correctly rotate (e.g. the exposure compensation scale moves to stay on the left of the LCD); but when I hang my X-H2 upside down on a tripod (for macro shots), the LCD does not adjust the indicators at all: they appear upside down. (see p. 259 of the PDF manual)
I was a Nikon shooter for years then I went to the Canon R6, I added the XH2 2 mths ago. I am not a diehard Fuji person that I cared about the aperture dial. I have front aperture, rear shutter and ISO is the button. I want to work off muscle memory using the 2 systems.
Thank you for the video. It has helped a lot. The changes are truly fantastic. I have this odd issue with my XF 8-16mm F2.8 lens. I have my X-H2 set up for live view or what appears to be live view in manual mode. So I'll set my exposure based on the exposure meter and the histogram. When I go to take a picture, half pressing the shutter increases the exposure (without changing my ISO, SS, or aperture) and shows an overexposed frame and when I fully press the shutter it takes the overexposed picture/frame. The issue seems to disappear if aperture is set to F2.8 but overexposes at every other aperture. I am not zooming during this time either as some threads have noted various focal lengths shift exposure. Some have also said to check that exposure compensation is not an issue but this is also not applicable since exposure compensation doesn't do anything in manual mode. The issue seems to disappear in shutter priority but it's not my ideal shooting mode and I feel like I shouldn't have to change my shooting style just for one lens. This does not happen on my 50-140mm F2.8, any of my primes, or manual focus lenses. It makes no sense and it is driving me nuts. If you can find the time, I would love help with finding a solution. I have searched multiple forum threads and found a couple posts that had a similar issue but none of them ever reported a solution.
Well this is extremely odd. Most of the things that I would have asked you to check, you have already checked. The only thing I can think of is the preview exposure in manual setting. The only problem is that that setting makes the picture of your brighter before you take it and your problem seems to be the opposite.
I agree with how good Fuji are in providing updates. I have several cameras, including the X-H2 but I note that the new Fuji App cannot be used with either the X-T1 or the X-Pro2 and you still have to use the original app. Not a major issue as I have found the original app to be not TOO bad but a little frustrating nonetheless. Nice video again, by the way.
I am glad Fuji fixed your XH-2 problem with the firmware update. ( I remember the video that you posted regarding the camera locking up.) I am hoping Fuji will get Sony- like autofocus performance,(or Canon/Nikon autofocus) in the very near future. I love the “Kaizen” approach that Fuji implements on their products
I often wonder about that. I don't know how AF technology works but what if they can't catch up? I'm fine with the AF tech being a little behind because I feel they make up for it in other ways. :)
Thank you for your comment, Booray. Like you, I was a long time (40years) Canon shooter. I have shot high school sports for many years, hence my comment about autofocus. I am okay, with Fuji, regardless, as I believe they offer tremendous value for their price point within the industry.I am absolutely enamoured with their lens lineup. 😊
Thanks for the video! I've installed the firmware, but missed this. I have a mix of Fuji, Sigma and Viltrox lenses. The Sigmas don't have an aperture ring, so I'm used to using a command dial for aperture for all lenses on the X-H2 in manual mode. I will still play with the switchable front dial though. I was still swearing at the new Fuji app. It kept disconnecting. Then I realised that it was something out of Fuji's control. When my phone is on a wifi network without internet (like the camera wifi), it automatically dumps the connection in favor of a wifi network that has internet. Because of that, my fuji app drops at home etc, but works great when I'm out and about. There might be an option in my phone (Android - Redmagic 6s) to stop that auto wifi switching.
I had a little bit of that with the old app but not with the new one. I literally have my phone sitting right next to my Wi-Fi router and it switches right over to the app. However, I also have cell tower service. 📷🙂
If you are in one of the C1-C7 modes, can you quickly change between P, A, S, M - whilst still retaining all the other settings associated with that C1-C7 preset?
As you talking about flash, I have noticed some strange behaviour with 3.0 firmware. But I can't understand why and what causes it. When using flash with af-c and eye autofocus, and setting ambient exposure to -5 ev, every time I shoot it misses focus, if I'm switching to af-s without eye detection camera nails focus perfectly. Not sure is it just me or there is a bug. Didn't perform enough tests yet.
About the AF performance of XH2. Its the processor. Although it is faster than previous generation, it will struggle with 40 mp and other features in the camera, if you set it to do much. If you wanne better AF performance. Here is a suggestion. 1. Shot only raw and with a CF Express card. 2. Shot nothing in auto mode. 3. No sharpness, no image editing in the camera. 4. Dont set it to shot 15/sec. You see NOW the processor have the ressources to do a better job at the AF. Its an amazing camera that can do tons of things. But also its problem, that hijacks the ressources of the processor. An old continiously problem it shares with computers, it gets slower when you set it to do to much. I also noticed that 15/sec could not be fullfilled under certain settings even if you used CF cards. But if you set the setting to minimal demands, like only shoot raw, it works just fine. Sometimes when the tasks are more loaded, give the AF time.
HELP! I have an H2S. You have one of your 3 assigned options to the front dial set as exposure compensation. On my H2S, when in manual mode, I have the back dial for exposure compensation (which I like), and the front to shutter speed and aperture because I sometimes use a lens without an aperture ring. HOWEVER, when in M mode, my exposure compensation becomes automatic and the back dial no longer works. I don't know why. There are situations where I would like to adjust the exposure compensation, even in manual mode, as I always did do on my X-T30. Why won't it work please? I have heard from some that it will, and some that it won't. I've never found a clear answer. PLEASE HELP? Thank you!
First, you need to clarify something. In manual mode, there is no "exposure compensation." If a dial is changing the exposure it is changing a specific setting. So, identify which dial is changing which setting to start.
Xt2 manual shooter looking to upgrade to xs20 to reduce weight. Possible to customize front command and top right wheel for exposure triangle like your video here?
Different cameras for different purposes. Xh2s is 26 megapixels which shoots 40 fps. Also a stacked sensor so much better autofocus and much better for video.
Thanks for a great video Booray. When I came to 04:25, I was expecting my biggest wish coming through - but unfortunately no.However, the ISO in manual on the back dial is great and thank you for your explanation on the front dial settings ;-) What I really really miss when shooting with my X-H2 is the way the "joystick" works when moving your focus point around. I work with both Canon and Fuji, and when jumping from my R5 to Fuji, I get really annoyed by the extremely slow speed the focus point moves with, and I am losing a lot of images because of that. And the way it jumps to the next point and stops before moving on is very frustrating. If you have access to an R5 or R6 or even and R3, you should try moving the focus point around - it's a thrill and soooo much easier to work with. This is the only thing that Fuji actually never updated which I really don't understand. It was ok like 8 years ago as it was a new technology but now, they are lagging behind on this particular field, and I really don't understand the idea ;-)
@@BoorayPerry Exactly, and it is not because it can’t. Try and enlarge an image on the LCD screen and move around using the stick. That’s how it should work when moving the focus point around. Also, if you change direction when moving the focus point it will stop, move to the next point in the new direction and pause before it moves on. For me it is actually so disturbing to work with that I am considering dumping my Fuji gear - again (I was a Fuji ambassador for 6 years, jumped to Sony and then to Canon, and now I want to go full in on Fuji again But, if they dob’t fix that thing, I’m out forever).
@@klausbo4627 I just tried it and I see your point. As long as you keep the stick in one direction or move it quickly you are fine but just a slight pause will make it stick for a second. very annoying.
@@BoorayPerry Hi Booray, I just found out that on the X-H2s the focus point can be moved around in the same way and speed as on Canon, Sony etc. So, maybe it’s just a question of waiting for the next firmware update for X-H2 😊
I'm sorry to ask, as it's most likely due to my ignorance, but I followed your video, got my back control dial to control the ISO - thank you very much - although it seems that I still need to use the ISO designated button to get it back to the AUTO 1, 2 or 3 settings. My problem is that when I assigned my AEL button to control the front command dial switching, it shows on my lcd that the switch is being made, but the front command dial does nothing, unless it's on the shutter speed control choice; when it's on the other 2 settings, exposure compensation and aperture settings, the front command dial does nothing --- until I switch it back to SS. Great video, with great information, and very clearly explained, so thank you!
I didn't even think about the ISO auto settings but you are right about that. As for the other two things not working, it's is because you are in manual mode. You can't have exp. comp when the camera isn't controlling any of the settings and the dial won't control the aperture if the aperture ring is in play. Set the aperture ring to A and the front dial will control the aperture. Set the ISO to auto and I bet the exp comp switch makes a difference. :)
@@BoorayPerry You're right, of course, and all is working --- until I forget again to set the Aperture to A or the ISO dial to Auto. Thank you for responding so quickly!
I actually prefer the non clickable dials, but not the way the camera came out of the box. This new firmware solved all the issues. Fuji is awesome in that regard, just ask any Sony A1 owner... 🙂
HI BOORAY. Can you please explain when switching what are the symbols meanings showing on screen excuse my age of 85. Sometimes now I struggle but still enjoy my fuji’s,,need people like you than ever Nowa days.
It’d be so much nicer if they ditch the PSAM dial and allow you to have shutter speed and ISO on the front and rear dials while letting you switch in and out of auto ISO/SS by holding a function button and turning the corresponding dials. I just feel that would be so much more intuitive.
