Ok I just finished the install. My notes: I didn't take the shocks off the back, but I did take the bottom link off of the front shocks to make room for the allen. To get stuff to line up on back for the radius rods I put the wheel back on with 2 lugnuts and used it to control twist, while the 2nd jack was used to lift the trailing arm. Its a time consuming process because of all the joints, but not super difficult. Buy a new 5/8 Dewalt or better bit. I bought a Milwaukee black carbide and it was useless and slow and I'm sure the hole was less perfect than the one I did with the better 25$ bit. The front factory sway bar-to-links nut on both sides came off nicely, then stopped as if welded. I had to hack-saw both nuts off, but could find no problem or reason they locked on. The front sway bar would have been easy if not for that. I wish I had the CNC plate but its not for sale yet. I dont have time to test drive it today, so I'll report back later.
Just checked out video... Not seeing the DRT pull plate on your site. My stock pull plate is toast! Need heavier duty suspension springs also for the Villain. Nobody's making them as far as I know. I thought Shock Therapy would be on the springs but I think they lost interest in the Villain.
Thanks for checking out the video! The DRT pull plate will be out soon, so keep an eye out for that on our site. As for the heavier duty suspension springs, we don't have anything available just yet.
Here's a concept, these are strong billet radius arms but the problem is they're straight how come they're not arched for high clearance these radius arms are known to hit rocks and get hung up, makes no sense!! Spend an exorbitant amount of money while all they had to do is form the arms correctly what a mind blow!
