I have always read and heard to do the dark color first, but doing the light color makes sense, because the dark color can bleed through the light color. So, from now on when I do a two tone paint job I will do the light color first. Great tips on painting. Thanks for sharing.
Trivia. The twin LeMans stripes on early Shelbys were tapered. That is, they were narrower in the front of the car, slightly wider at the cowl, very slight taper on the roof, and then got narrower again at the tail end. This was done so that, standing in front or behind the car, the stripes would appear to be the same width even though you were closer to one end than the middle, if that makes sense. I have no idea if the other manufacturers did this, but I'll bet they did eventually. Probably not necessary with models, but would be interesting if you were shooting your own stripes. Good vid!
Great tips. I’m so afraid of two tone and stripes. I have a viper I’m working on. Already layed the blue base. I was going to use Tamiya white primer for the stripes. I’m going for it. Experience is what I need fingers crossed. Have a great weekend 👊🤘👍
Great video as always Don, you're the BEST!!! Just one thing...you seem to have a lot of background noise which is annoying. Thanks for your teaching! Judy in Nova Scotia, Canada
I just love your explanation,it’s clear and easy to understand,now I wonder if I would have a specific question if it would be ok to ask,thanks in advance by a young 62 years old young fellow 😅
@@ScaleModelTechniques for some strange reason,I followed ur instructions to a tee,I sand my body,from 600 to 12000,what could I be doing wrong,I still get sanding scratch when I prime the body,btw I love watching your video,your a very intelligent and knowledgeable person,got all your dvds
I remember one time I airbrushed Pledge Multi Surface Wax (UK version of Future) over some tamiya tape, to seal it before airbrushing another colour on a build. (Revell 1:25 VW Samba Bus). Only for the Pledge to cause something funny to occur to the tamiya tape, meaning the glue reacted to the underlying paintwork!
Y'all remember he has 30 plus years of experience he has built probably 1000 plus model cars and painted a bunch more for customers. If your not doing shows then just build for yourself and have fun yes these kits are getting expensive fast the more popular the hobby becomes like it's starting to the more expensive the kits will be 30-50 bucks now for non Tamiya kits like revelle and re pop all new tooling kits from the 70s &80s &90s are 40 bucks to it sucks when you mess up a paint job or worse mess up a decal and now your stuck can't find a set online and forced to go buy a whole other kit just for that decal or love with out it. The best advice I can give you is just go for it. I have not spent the money on a golf quality airbrush I'm using the 60 dollar gravity feed one from hobby lobby on the harbor freight airbrush compressor works great just a pain to go set it all up just for 10 seconds of spraying creates more work for a hobby that's supposed to be fun so I usually end up just rattle canning all my bodies that are non show body's with the testors extreme laquer 2 part system and 2k clear that you gotta pop the ball to activate hardner not the 2x garbage. His DVDs are worth it trust me my paint jobs when I do airbrush them are like glass every time no more orange peel and messed up bodies I'm spending hours sanding and cleaning paint off in the bath of doom. So get his DVDs they will even help you guy using rattle cans the model car paint rattle cans and get you almost show quality shine with those as well trust me well worth the money
I shoot a coat of clear over the tape before I paint the second colour, if there is any gap in the tape then the overspray is clear and it helps seals it.
so if i dont have tamiya tape can i still use scotch tape and when i have my tape layed the way i want for a 2 tone i just run my finger along to seal of the sides of the tape so the paint doesnt run under the tape
The white Tamiya tape is the really narrow stuff he was talking about that you can mask off curves with. The stuff in the video is the regular masking tape.
Hi, Chris here…. The Tamiya tape to use 4 masking is yellow in color & it comes in several different sizes. Now Tamiya does also make a masking tape in different sizes that is white in color….although that particular tape is a stretchable type of tape which is used to create curves & bends & to follow any curves & bends on a model kit. As far as burnishing, I suppose anything that will securely keep the tape in place on the car so there is no areas that paint can bleed through & not damage the paint can be used. I use my fingers carefully & gently & make sure very thoroughly I have ALL the areas masked off tightly & the tape is pressed in place…… hope that helps.
@@ScaleModelTechniques Hello Don. What sort of body prep required when we paint the second color? Does the 2nd paint portion require any sanding? I'm cracking my head on this one. Please advise tvm.
@@ScaleModelTechniques OK Don.. I watched the video several more times. After 1st color flashed, wet sand up to 12K right? Then mask off for the 2nd color, paint then let it flash again. Then wet sand again up to 12K along the separation lines for even surface. After that clear coat, wet sand, polish. I hope I understood you well.
@@brianalphonso7466 After the second coat has flashed . We sans the entire body up to 12000 . Wash it off , blow dry it off with compressed air , lay down your clear coat in light mist coats until you have achieved an over all smoothness and gloss . Allow that to flash , wet sand and polish .
