There's a lot of talk about fungal dominant compost and fungal to bacterial ratios in compost and soils. What exactly does that mean? Join us this Wiggle Wednesday to learn all about it.
I stumbled here in my "how to reduce weeds naturally and organically" down the rabbit hole. I am very happy and satisfied with everything I saw and heard in the presentation.
I started 3 years ago to build Johnson su bio reactors I compost chicken bedding which consists of wood chips,leaves,hay grown in the back yard I also add soaked wood chips,leaves,bone char,fish waste,rock dusts Basalt, Wollastonite, Volcanophos, Gypsum, & Soft Rock Phosphate,sea 90 mineral salt,granular humic acid,bokashi fermented food scraps,chicken guts and feathers,homemade fish hydrolysate,and two year aged compost to inoculate the pile after the heat comes down I add red wiggles and nightcawlers i always keep it covered with leaves amazing how fast the biology breaks down the leaves ontop have to constantly replace the leaves and I water in fish hydrolysate occasionally I’ve used this compost on my garden and cover crops and it’s day and night
You make some excellent points. Thank you. And FWIW I believe the knf rice protocol is provided at least in part to discourage the short sighted from disturbing or taking forest soils home by the truckload. Thanks for the excellent info
Haven't started my worm farm. I am waiting for the weather to warm a little. But do enjoy the videos and will have many questions in the future. Thanks again!
Great information neighbor! I'm from Lansdale. I've read that all part of the black walnut tree contain juglone, except it is strongest in the wood material. Also in low amounts in hickory and locust
Brilliant information. I have myco fungi in the older bark pieces around my lawn. How do I transfer the fungi on the bark to the roots of my lawn which is several feet away?
Maybe this is a dumb question, but hopefully not too dumb! My question is - why would we care to make our vermicompost more fungal as opposed to more bacterial? To expand... I assume a lot of us fixated on the vermicompost aspect of the business are likely doing it for their gardens (or someone else's garden). The plants grown in said gardens/farms would be lower in the plant succession chart, and therefore more on the bacterial/nitrate side as opposed to more fungal/ammonia side. So wouldn't it be more desired to foster bacteria over fungi, unless you're going for trees or something? Did I miss a crucial point for this fungal-dominated over bacterial-dominated vermicompost? Or is it more that the fungi more easily tear through the carbons in the bin?
Good question Evelyn...and hopefully the video communicated that you don't necessarily want fungal vermicomposts over bacterial in all cases. Yes, lots of garden vegetables would want a more bacterial vermicompost. But arborists or folks simply wanting to revitalize trees and shrubs would most certainly want a more fungal vermicompost. Less weed pressure with more fungal vermicompost as well.
@@UrbanWormCompany Thank you for taking the time to answer my question! I must have missed that point in the video. Just was just so much hype that I was beginning to wonder if any respectable vermicomposter would be trying to shoot for more fungal vs bacterial, especially since there's a whole facility aiming to do so. Thanks for clearing that up for me!
@@evelynknight5627one more thing. It is true that most garden plants needs bacterially dominated soils, but that they doesn't need presence of fungi in soil, or fungal biomass. However, as we going from early successional vegetables to row crops, we are talking about a presence of much higher percentage of fungal biomass in soils for row crops than for early successional plants, or even a mid successional plants. So F:B ratio is literally the crucially important thing to consider in order to grow plants from wanted succession. So from right F:B ration, or right fungal biomass it will depend which kind of plants will thrive in that soil. So if we have a fungal dominated compost, we will fastly regenerate soil in the way to get right amount of fungal biomass and F:B ratio for plants we want to grow.
Thanks for letting us know Jon! I'd make sure to come over to UrbanWormCompany.com to join our e-mail list. That's our main method of communication about these events!
With your compost how do you get it to heat up with no high nitrogen component, if your starting materials are 2/3 browns and 1/3 greens? Or is it just expected that it will just take longer to decompose. Is the only reason for hot composting is to get rid of weed seeds, kill pathogens and speed up the decomposition process ? Thank you!
After reading all the comments. Pl allow me to share the following I here in pakistan, started mulching😢 wheat🎉 and rice straw. No need for wigglers was observed. Since mulching lowers soil temp and food for😢😢😢 wigglers🎉 wigglers start multiplying. On their own. Just put owdc, organic waste composer. Put it in a dr🎉😢😢😮um and add😢😢😢 to irrigation water. Good luck.
I have a compost bin, and the ph is right around 6.4. I have noticed some fungi presence as well as flying bugs. Do I need to worry about the bugs in the compost? Or should I just let the pile age and hope the bugs die off?
