Excellent! As a homeowner, I wish that I could always count on service specialists like this when I need assistance. Unfortunately I’ve found that often I need to know the specialist’s job as well as he does to make sure the work is done correctly. Usually too, I’ll have the specialist pull a city permit for the job so they know their work is being checked.
I am a licensed contractor with some experience.. But, I still watch your videos because I am not a native English speaker and I am learning professional/communication language while driving from one site to another. And yes, pretty much every video I learn something new from you in sense of the trade skills. Thank you for doing this videos for us!
I just want to say thank you. I frequently watch your videos for training and you really know your stuff. I’m less than a year into the trade and have shifted from a career in the automotive business to HVAC/plumbing working for my family’s business. After a summer of A/C and now I’m in the height of heating season I’ve been exposed to enough to appreciate the wealth of knowledge you have and strive to become a true technician like you. Not just a parts replacer. You’re ability to explain and prove operation and failure is unmatched. Thank you for passing on you’re knowledge and educating us in the trade.
Here is a 7th one but probably not that common - but it happened to me. When they constructed my home they ran three sets of wires to the control board. One multi wire from the thermostat location, and two other separate two wire cables to ??? (they just go into the wall. Possibly one was to go to a fan switch (a switch that would turn the fan on bypassing thermostat) and possibly the other was for condenser control for future air conditioning. Our home does have a fan control switch, but it is wired directly to the fan not the control board. For whatever reason, the installation contractor connected both extra two wire cables to the control board, wiring red to R and the black wire to G. The other ends were not connected to anything, so it didn't matter. Recently we had a really hot spell and turned the fan control on to try to circulate the cool air from the basement - left it on for several weeks. When we turned it off - the fan stayed on. The culprit was one pair of the extra wires. After 20 years of vibration a short was created between red and black. I isolated which pair and spent some time wondering if it was possible it was connected to some other device that would try to turn on the fan. Once I determined it wasn't, I disconnected that pair from the control board. Everything works, thermostat fan on, fan control, heating, and cooling.
Your instructional videos are the best! Thank You. One question; why would an open safety cause the fan to run? The open sensors should remove the power?? I know the T stat, t stat wiring or the welded relay would cause such issue. If the Tstat is off position the fan should not run regardless. Correct? Thank You again You are the best!
When any kind of temperature limit switch opens it breaks power to the board that controls the gas valve stopping the furnace from firing and at the same time it tells the board to keep the fun on in order to cool down the furnace. If your switch is stuck open the board will think that the system is overheated and it will not turn on,while keeping the blower running.
I'm sure 95% know but for the 5% that don't , sometimes you want the blower to run all the time. When you have a multi floor house ( 2 story or more) you get what's called a waterfall effect where in the off cycle the warm air raise to the upper floor and the clod air falls to the lower floor. I had a raised ranch and would get a 8 degree difference between floors by turning the fan to continues run that cut the difference to 4 Degree. So, during the winter and AC season my fan ran 24/7 ,
I was literally just fixing to ask this question. I just moved in a 2 story house. The upstairs has a thermostat and the downstairs has one, when my heater is turned on but I have thermostat set lower than the room temp so the heater won’t come on I noticed the fan still cycles on and off through out the day even though the room temp is still higher than what the thermostat is set at. The heater is not kicking it seems to just be the fan. Is this the the scenario you are talking about? Is this normal or do I need to call for service? Thanks
Well I suppose the upper stat could be used to turn on the fan only? See if the upper stat has an " ON " position , the idea is to have the fan run all the time to over come the cold air falling to the lower floor and the hot air raising to the upper floors.@@beanieweenie9543
I have this problem with a coleman presidential furnace. I did remove the thermostat and the blower motor cuts off. The only difference is my thermostat switch is set to heat. Does that make a difference when troubleshooting a potential faulty thermostat ?
I have an ECM/Control board. Fan blower blows non stop, but will cut off if I pull the single wire off the control board from the X13 SPD post. Does that sound like it's a bad board?
hi thank u for this amazing content! i don’t understand why u had the red probe on one terminal and checking for voltage with the black prope. i know this a silly question i’m new into the trade and want to have a deep understanding of electricity can you please elaborate more on this topic
With my electric heat only furnace- tech came out, said it was the main board. Ok, changed it. Now, the fan runs regardles of the thermostat, but the thermostat will turn the heat on and off, just not the motor. So i figure it must be a relay, but not only i cannot find a part #, even with the model, and serial #, i have to disassemble the entire wiring harnes, breakers and all, just to get to the relay. Why? It is in my wet crawl space, that has no more than 12 inches of clearance.
I am using a white-rogers 50A55-843..5 months old .When Heating the Fan shuts off after 90 seconds...when cooling the fan does not shut off...can anyone give me a place to start looking or testing?
I have a similar problem with my ac unit. I have a Lennox and when I turn the ac unit on upstairs the fan blower keeps running so I have to go up in the attic and remove the breaker.
I cheat! I use an old contactor off an ac unit and attach two leads to it. I put one at "c" and use the other the same way as you would an electrical meter probe. Two reasons 1) I don't need to keep looking at the meter as I can here the loud clicking noise. Works great in dark and difficult to get at furnaces. 2) In rare circumstances you can read 24V but due to a weak spot in wires it does not have enough under load volts to get the job done. The relay will chatter or not pull in. I find it much faster as I just move right through the whole circuit in seconds.
Those 2.3 ECM modules are overly sensitive causing failure. Just be sure that you have sufficient airflow in heat mode, otherwise, you will fry the module over time. Remove those overly-restrictive filters!!!!! I also install surge suppression just in case.
@@logicalrat To compensate for airflow restriction (i.e., too high MERV filter or too many in-line air filters), the ECM will allow more Amps to speed up the motor so it matches the airflow settings on the dip switches. The increased heat generated inside the module and/or the motor can burn out the module. There is a disc-shaped thermister in the module some people replace (solder in) rather than replacing the module.
I have a amana aspt42d14aa that thr blower motor stayed running, a/c guy comes put diags ecm bad on blower moyor, a/c unit had been installed about 6 years, replaced motor. A year later same thing, replaced motor, now approc a yr n a half later same thing. Any idea on why the blower motors ecm keeps going out causing this issue? Frustrating that it has started doing this
Question. What if the blower motor turns s on and off with the call for heat but the fan switch on the thermostat doesn't work. I have a goodman GM9S800 furnace and it's brand new. The furnace never enters into the sequence of operations
My fan continues to run after the A/C cuts off. If I flip the breaker off and back on, the fan stays off until the A/C starts again. Then it's always on again. This means its not the wiring correct? What most likely is it?
When checking the voltage of any switch you should read 0volts that means the switch is closed and if the switch is open you should get voltage reading . Plz correct me if I am wrong, thanks
You are very much wrong in HVAC applications, also note how his probes were set up, 1 probe to Common which essentially is a ground and the other to each side of switch that is wired in series. Hope that helps.
You're correct when checking voltage. The positive lead goes to the power, negative to ground, get your voltage reading (if set properly). But when checking for resistance, you should get 0 Ohms when checking both sides of a wire to see if its good. ...or if a switch is closed. If he said voltage while checking for resistance, or vice/verse, he probably just misspoke.
On some of the older furnaces if the switch goes bad it gives the board the same signal it gets when the unit is running so the board thinks it's burning and the fan will run I haven't seen it happen on the newer furnaces and like on the wall furnaces their switchs are 120 volt not 24 like on the regular gaspack and forced air furnace
Thank you for the video. I have a question. Will the power cut off when I pop the door switch reset 3 hours lockout on the control board? I have a situation where the flame rollout switch was open and the board was throwing error 13. But even after I reset the flame rollout switch and put the power back to the board nothing was happening when I initiate a call for heat R+W. The board was making some hissing noise and didn't start the sequence for the heat call. I ended up replacing the board because I thought the power interruption must clear the memory on the board. Am I right?
Yes power interruption should always clear the furnace to allow operation if all safeties are reset. Otherwise the board may be bad. Make sure to check for CO levels and to see why the flame rollout tripped. Flame rollouts trip due to cracked heat exchanger or possible clogged heat exchanger. Thanks again for your support on Patreon!
@@acservicetechchannel thank you for the response. Sure. I always check for CO and make sure the CO alarms are presented and working. Safety is the first.
This is what I suspect too because all of a sudden the blower is running a lot longer. I changed the thermostat bc I thought that was the problem. But this newer one just blows and blows cool air no matter the setting. Oh, it stops for a second then starts back up again. I believe something was tripped... on purpose. 🤔🧐😏
@@KeeperOfThe10 I ALSO BELIEVE THE ELECTRIC SMART METER R ABLE TO SPEED UP VIA REMOTE SIGNAL FROM SATALITE. DID U C HOW THEY CUT THE POWER OF 10 OF THOUSANDS N CALIFORNIA ON & OFF VIA SMART METER AT THE SAME TIME. I BELIEVE THESE POWER OUTAGES R ON PURPOSE TO FEED MORE POWER TO THE C.E.R.N PARTICAL FUSION COLIDER UNDERGROUND N CALIFORNIA. SORRY ALL CAPS CAN'T C SMALL LETTERS ON KEYBOARD
My heater will reach temperature, then heat will turn off (can hear little click) but fan keeps blowing slightly cooler air. Sometimes it shuts the fan off and sometimes it doesn’t, or runs for 30 minutes then shuts off. I don’t know what the heck is going on. I have a Heatrix by Dell HXOB, central air, any tips
our rheem blower motor keeps failing the motors generally only last 1-2 years before they fail we have had a tech come out and they said generally the fan cant be ran for more than a few hours without doing damage. what a pile of crap
