⭐ More Videos That Can Help: Top 5 Furnace Problems and How to Fix Them: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-T4IWtKy--Vk.html Furnace Parts and Functions Explained: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gN-UIr6824w.html Thermostat Not Turning on Heat: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-054cRskeh5k.html Blank Thermostat Screen: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vi3OJuGfaac.html Furnace Error Codes Explained: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-J8Zegm4TClM.html Furnace Sequence of Operation (important to know): ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AQD_MedIklI.html
@@A.C.71 Can you hear your gas valve click open and let out some gas? If yes, then it's likely that the board is bad. It could be a loose wire connection too so I would take a look at the wire going to the ignitor as well.
I’m going to buy that tomorrow. I’m not seeing any flames coming out. I only hear the sound and then the gas but I didn’t see the flames. Wish me luck 😬
Great videos, I've watched several! Got any tips on how to check the output of an ignition coil? My furnace works fine if I ignite the burners by hand, as you have shown, but automatic ignition is broken. How can I determine if I need to replace the igniter (spark type) or the control board, where the coil is mounted? I have a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end. I connected one end of the wire to the coil output pin. I placed the other end of the wire close to the heater frame (ground) with about a 1/8 inch gap. No spark is seen during startup. Is that a valid test? Any suggestions?
I have a problem with the main valve it don't get energized once the pilot lights up suppose to get energized , I energized it manually and it worked , could you please help me with it ?. My furnace is an old Rheem .
Hi excellent video! QUESTION: during a power outage I heard a spark that went off when the power for our area was being fixed by the electric company so at intervals we had low voltage then completely shut down so when the furnace turned on it created a quick spark then the flame went out then the power again was off to our area so now the power is on in our area and the furnace will turn on with no error signals just a stable red light and the gas valve will open but no flame - what do I do? Did the igniter shorted because of the on and off to our power in our area - (when the furnace turned on and tried to heat up the house in that beginning stage the power again went off.) If I do need to call a service tech what should I make sure to look for in a tech? Greatly appreciate your help! Thank you
Looks like I have the same furnace as you do in the video. Mine seems to rarely ignite on the first try. It does on the second or third attempt. I've seen the ignitor glowing. Could I have a gas valve going bad??
Why can’t you use your pen stick voltage tester. Won’t tell you the voltage amount but will tell you if volts at device. Saves a lot of unplugging and plugging back. May save time on diagnosis
That would work too, thank you for pointing that out! Once in a long time, that method can lead to the wrong diagnosis though. I have had boards that did not send enough voltage to the ignitor.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I'm a 67 year old woman who replaced the ignitor on my furnace. My son, family and friends are quite impressed that I did it on my own. I couldn't have done it without you. Thank you for taking the time to make these great videos to educate us. You saved me $250!
Its so simple and only took me 10 minutes. But the tech not counting parts which is only $25 wanted $400 to do the job. It is not inline with other costs for service
Top Tip: Make sure you pull the new igniter out of the box before you leave the store to make sure it’s not broken. Sometimes you get back to the furnace only to find that the new igniter is in pieces.
I had to replace a blower motor for a mini split unit. I removed the old one just to find out that the new motor was is pieces and couldn’t finish the job that day. It came straight from the factory. I now inspect all my replacement parts before taking apart the failed components. Good tip
Mr T, great advice for the checking the part at the store, also as a added bonus bring your multimeter with you and check it right there in front of the SALESMAN, they would not mind at all, & will save you time and hassle for the back and forth trips that you might make.... 👍😏
I never comment but thank you so much. Company tried to charge me $5,500 to replace a control board, igniter, and capacitor. I bought all the parts for $150!
Yeah there are CROOKS out there for sure ..been there done that that is why I am here do not trust them, AND this man is very very intelligent with very good tips. Best on the internet
Thank you. Svc Tech wanted $1500 minimum (Inducer Motor + Hot Surface Igniter + Labor) to "start" diagnosis, but was recommending total HVAC replacement $10K. Looks like I will be able to skate by with a few hours of research and $21 for a new HSI.
Thank you so so much for all your videos on how to fix the furnace. We were able to save over $500 for replacing the ignitor, the pressure switch and the flame sensor.
I've been through so many of your videos over the last 6 hours trying to figure out my furnace problems, and they're all fantastic and easy to follow. Everything was in working condition, as you described, but the ignitor never started glowing. I was about ready to throw in the towel and call someone when the wife suggests, "Maybe the thermostat needs new batteries." And after I've taken your entire video crash course to become an HVAC expert, the problem was 2 dying batteries. I just assumed all thermostats were hardwired.
A tip....Don't know if this pertains to your house or not, but good to know either way! A lot of thermostats are hard wired and have spots for batteries that are never used. If a shady heating and cooling company comes over, I've seen them put batteries into a hard wired thermostat. Then months later those batteries start to die, your thermostat doesn't kick on and you have to call them back. Even though your thermostat was hard wired to begin with....It's a shady practice I've seen firsthand on multiple occasions.
It's been said by many but THANK YOU for your very clear explanation! Because of your video, I was able to really understand what was going on and come to an educated guess that my ignitor was out. 5 calls to different supply stores (many don't sell to homeowners) and I finally got it replaced and working! Very much appreciated. Hope you're doing well!
You are correct, in Commifornia, I went to 3 HVAC stores and they told me that they only cell to a certified licensed technician not the homeowners. It's freezing cold here and I ended up ordering through Amazon. Time to move out of this state.
FRAGILE little coil. I've clumsily Broke 2 perfectly good igniter. Once when upgrading a separate component. Secondly while switching the hardware over I dropped my screwdriver on the coil.
@Word of Advice TV I've watched most of your videos but can't seem to find you talking about an issue where you see the ignitor glow but you never have the flame. I used your video where you try to manually light it to get some heat for a moment and when I tried the method, it never caught, almost like there was no gas coming in.... So I see how your videos would be such good help to most people with issues but for my different issue of not being able to light manually or with ignitor is just making me have a headache.... :( Any suggestions would be much appreciated
Nice to see somebody with a healthy functioning brain in their head. Very good video and specific information on diagnosing a failed or failing hot surface ignitor. Thank you for posting the video and keep up the great work!
Your video instructions are the best I've seen...your one on hot water heaters was quite excellent and so is this one ... also your camera person does a perfect job. Thank you so much for this tremendous help.
Excellent I will go back down and see if I hear the click and the sound of gas, no one really mentions this take take a meter and check it or if it does not come on it is probably the ignitor and replace it. I was thinking I am sure it could be something else to check before I order an ignitor Thanks ! P.S. Thanks for the warning about damaging and back testing while testing and not to let it drop. You are amazing :-)
Jay, Very nice video with a perfect and easy to understand. One thing that , we do not how to change if my Ignitor like yours but now discontinued and they have now is Silicon Nitride Ignitor (S1-02549808000) . I really look around for that video on RU-vid but no video. My one is York furnace model YP9C100C20MP12CA. If any your recommendations, I would appreciate it.
Just great info. Nothing wrong with calling for a repair, but too many people in the service industry are just plain shady and even if they are not, a lot of things can be fixed by yourself and rather than pay 250 dollars for 10 minutes of work installing a 25 dollar part, you can do it yourself. Plus, you get a feeling of accomplishment that's worth far more than you saved...almost.
Thanks a lot for your videos, I hope you can guide me with my igniter issues, My igniter is a 95Vac, it reads 50ohms on the multi meter, and also the furnace delivers 95Vac when requires it, but does not gets hot enough to light the gas, before I purchase a new igniter, do you know if there is a way I should be expecting 120Vac for the igniter? what could be causing the problem? (I turned on the furnace using your lighter trick, while I figure this out) THANK YOU!
Not possible based on ohms Law !!! 123 volts divided by 71 ohms is 1.7 amps. A igniter cannot ignite natural gas at 1.7 amps. If res. Is higher amps go down 120 volts divided by 400 ohms is .3 amps this is ohms Law it's not possible to have high resistance with the right amps for the igniter to work. That have 3.3 amps to 3.5 amps required for the igniter you have to have between 35 and 40 ohms of resistance no more no less this is Ohm's Law
Just some odd ball 80V ignitor and compatible circuit board by Trane or Lennox will ruin your judgement. Furnace's number/sn - ignitor's part number - circuit board number should all go well together!
Guess my issue has not been resolved. The ignitor was borderline, was working occasionally last weekend, and believe it should have been changed either way. Changed it on Monday, came right on, ran a couple cycles, then stopped coming on in the middle of the night. Checked ohms on new ignitor, is good. Doesn't appear to be getting voltage. Hoping it was a loose connection somewhere, checked wiring, seemed ok. Tried again, and it came on. Tried again this morning, nothing. Have not tried troubleshooting the board yet. Definitely has power to it, and not getting any codes. Would the ingitor come on occasional if the board is bad? Any ideas? Is a Trane XL80. Thanks much!!!
I have a high efficiency propane furnace that is only a few years old that won't ignite consistently. The glow plug turns on and I can hear the gas valve click but then it does start. Oddly enough if you blow on it, it fires right up. I had one tech come out and he had no idea what was wrong with it. What are your thoughts?
My first thoughts are that the ignitor is weak (or if recently replaced, it can be positioned bad). So it will still glow but not hot enough to ignite the gas. Another thought is that the burners are dirty or there is a partially plugged orifice in the manifold. I have a video on that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aM4OXM8ruNk.html
I changed the ignitor and checked to make sure the orifices were to clean but it's still acting the same. I bought a monometer and the high fire is set at 8 in of wc but for some reason I can't adjust it up any higher. (low is correct at 4.0) The screw turns but thats all. The book says it should be 9.6. It initially ignites on high fire, right? Could this be the problem? I'm also on propane. A conversion kit was originally installed years ago but this is a new problem. Also the incoming pressure is 13 inches of wc.
Excellent. My turn for a failed igniter today and this video told me what I needed to know to diagnose and fix it, with no fluff and the perfect amount of detail.
So! My ignitor is glowing bright red, but the gas is not being discharged or igniting. When I power off the furnace and immediately power it back on, the ignitor glows again, the gas flows and ignites... and the furnaces operates until the thermostat shuts it off when the set temperature is met. What would cause the furnace to operate only after I shut it down and re-power it!? UPDATE.... the furnace changed to first emitting the initial gas burst before the igniter glowed. Further investigation determined the gas regulator is malfunctioning, so I will change that part and see if it corrects the problem!
Any ideas on what’s wrong with the furnace if the igniter works, the glow and fire happens but the fire just keeps shutting off after a few minutes? My furnace just keeps blowing cold air. I just keep flicking the on/off switch but it keeps shutting off.
My igniter turns on bright but no flame comes up, then the igniter goes out. Tries 3 times then lockout. I’m thinking it’s the flame sensor but I thought the sensor only operates once the flames are on so not sure. Edit: my gas valve switch was between on and off. I sense that vibrations of the furnace caused the switch to slowly creep down as the switch was very flimsy and not a solid switch. Hope this helps others during debugging.
Exact problem I had. Was getting the 123 V AC at the electrical connector for the igniter but igniter was not lighting up. Replaced with new igniter and good to go. What would have probably cost 150+ for someone to come out and fix, cost 45 bucks and took 5 mins to replace. Great intuitive video. Also, as someone else mentioned, open box of new igniter before you leave the store. The igniter is somewhat delicate. Dropped the first one I bought and it shattered. And also, don't touch the igniter element with bare hands as the oil on our hands can shorten the life of the igniter.
I have a goodman gas furnace. With the front panel off and looking at the 3 burners is the orange glow at the right burner during start up, is that the ignitor glowing? Next, if that is the ignitor glowing, can I assume that the glow means that the ignitor is good? My furnace starts for a couple minutes and the orange glow tries to light the gas three times before the system faults with a single blinking red light on the control board. I don't smell any gas at all. I cleaned the flame detector and cleaned the burners (thanks to your video. Thank you!). I am ordering some parts which include a new ignitor, a resettable and no resetable limit switch and pressure switch. thanks again for making those videos. They are very helpful.
Thanks for the great info! I also paint my nails and have some quite decorative ones If I find them Ill shoot you a pic, its from a piece of artwork I made, "I love to paint my nails , I do, I think that you would like it, too."
Thank you so much for this informative video 😊 I watched your other video and I was able to get heat by turning on the igniter manually and get heat in the middle of the night while I couldn’t get the parts right away. ❤
My hot surface igniter work intermittently but will sometimes turn on when the blower is already working. I can hear it click many times until it finally ignite the gas mixture. Do you think I need a new HSI ?
I have to say that compared to a good old fashioned pilot light this is bull. All this crap they’ve added to these new furnaces is just more bullshit to break.
My ignition looks good. Mines not glowing at all as it doesnt even get to the point that the gas starts going. I've tried to manually light it based on your other video, but I cant even do that. Could it be a bad gas valve? It never makes the click sound or anything. Its nearly 4am and it's cold af right now. I've done everything in all your other videos and still stuck
I learned long time ago that if it is a load especially heating elements, test only with Amps and/or Volts. They can test good with Ohms and Continuity but will fail "under load", then you get a call back.........at 2 A.M.
I just bought a house and the filter was so caked it was domed and now have to change the igniter,flame sensor and the fuse to the igniter do to over heating from low air flow
I put in a new ignitor. It started initially, but that did not last long and I was getting cold air. So I cleaned flame sensor, but the new ignitor is not lighting up. It is located right between two burners - it is not directly behind one. I am new at this and am wondering if it is not lighting up because it is not directly in line with a burner to get gas to it?
Trying to troubleshoot my furnace today. I touched the igniter, wiped it with a clean microfiber and sprayed compressed air on it... The furnace is only a year old, should I replace it now since I did that? Or should it last a little while. Also, I didn't get the furnace back up and running. The igniter glows, first burner comes on but the gas doesn't reach the other two burners and shuts off. Tried cleaning burners and gas orifices. Goodman furnace.
You are a wonderful person. I just watched a couple of your videos and was educated on what should be working. My heat works again. No big bill had to be paid.
Well, I know that my igniter is bad thanx to you. You do such a GREAT job of explaining everything. I nominate you for the best channel of the year award. May you walk home with a Golden igniter glow award !!! Thank you.. Also ? Nice job painting your nails 😂 never heard that one ..
I repaired one in an assisted living facility. I was under more pressure than usual because my customer was 96 years old. I was determined no matter what to get that thing running. I'm glad it was so easy to diagnose and replace.
Thank you sooooo much. I checked the igniter. Had 110 volts going to it. Removed it and found crack. Local shop had a replacement in stock for $60. Works great and warm house feels so good. Couldn’t wait for delivery from online retailer. We’re happy.
If the plugs are different it is better to cut the plug off of the old ignitor and splice the old plug on to the new ignitor. You may be able to remove the pins or socket connectors from the plastic part, and insert them into the old plug. I don’t think wire nuts are allowed for 110 volts outside of a junction box in some areas. I use shrink fit butt connectors followed with a layer of black shrink fit tubing. If wire nuts are used, they should be ceramic ones, not plastic ones, because this is a high heat area. Good video.
7 месяцев назад
I have watched a ton of your videos, Thank you I have learned a lot. What I have gathered is my Ignitor (replaced and is new) is not receiving enough power. 3.6 AC Volts and then after the blower motor clicks, the volts slightly jump to 5.6 AC Volts. Everything else is working, as we have been able to manually light the furnace. Is this a simple replace the wire from the control board to the ignitor, or is this an entire control board that needs to be replaced? Thank you!
You're welcome! Glad to hear you were able to make some progress in your troubleshooting and can get the heat going. This is likely a bad control board issue. It could be a loose connection too so I would try testing the voltage and wiggling the wires, plugs, and connector while doing so. You may need to try a couple times since the ignitor only gets powered on for 5-10 seconds before the gas valve opens and powers off shortly after.
I just want to say that I’m a renter. And my heater stop working 3 weeks ago. My landlord has been told and hasn’t send someone to fix it. I took matters in my hands and decided to at least try to fix the issue… three videos later and a my husband doubting me. I was able to get my heater back on. I’m not freezing anymore. 🙏 you are a blessing to a lot of people. Thank you very much for all of your videos. 🙏❤️
Amazing!! Thank you!! I was in a pinch- no access to parts, and I just pulled the igniter out and cleaned it up and sorta patched the break. Furnace is working now, and hopefully works til I get my hands on a new igniter!
You're welcome! Glad to hear you were able to get it going. It is also possible to light the furnace manually if you need to: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--bMz1En0DSg.htmlsi=xKXYfUF0jpfcRTGv
I’m having an ignition problem on my Trane XL80 furnace: ignitor not glowing when turned on. It reads about 90 ohms, so it’s not burnt out. It doesn’t receive any voltage! After flipping on the switch, the motor fan starts working, then I can hear a click sound when it’s time to send power to ignitor (which doesn’t ignite since no power), then gas hissing out. I can manually ignite when gas is hissing. So, a bad board?
Hi, Thank for all your help and assistance. Also sometimes you just make me laugh so thanks for that too. Anyway, I just used some of this information to fix my pool heater. I notice you explain things about a lot of different appliances but I see nothing on pool equipment particularly pool heaters ( which are a lot like a furnace but not) and pool pumps. Any chance you could wander into this lane. Keep up the great content. Thanks again.
Hi David! Glad to hear you were able to get the pool heater fixed. If I get a chance down the road, it would be great to make a few pool heater repair videos! Thanks for the suggestion!
Hopefully you still read your new comments. I replaced my igniter but now my furnace will only ignite after cycling twice. I don't see an adjustment on the igniter bracket. What could be my issue?
Does it fail to ignite the gas or do the burners light but go out after a few seconds? Regarding the igniter bracket, I have had to bend the igniter bracket in the past to place the igniter closer to the burners. But if the burners do light but fail to stay on, then it's a flame sensor issue. (usually resolved by simply cleaning the flame sensor) Another possible fix is to clean the burners. (I have a video on that if you need it)
I appreciate this video. Tom Drexler came out to check my A/C and just happened to somehow remove a wire from the igniter. Thanks to you I was able to diagnose the problem, restore the connection, and save myself another visit from an expensive company.
Hello, Im having the other issue everyone gets vague about with no voltage to my ignitor. The fan comes on, then the gas flows like you showed but there is no voltage at the connector. I traced the wires back to the control circuit board, but now what? It's solid state mainly diodes and stuff. One 3 a fuse thats good. Ignitors are cheap, but these are not. Is there any other sensors or things to check besides condemning the circuit board? Please help, its getting cold and my family is telling me to call a real HVAC guy which isn't gonna happen. Thanks
My heater only kicks on with warmer temperatures kind of defeats the purpose. If the ignitor is bad, does that mean it works sporadically, or does it just not work at all? I cleaned the flame sensor, so I'm thinking it is my ignitor. Any thoughts out there??
Sorry to hear about the furnace troubles. I don't think that the ignitor is the problem. Perhaps the furnace is overheating? This problem can go unnoticed when it's warmer outside but once it gets cold, the temperature in the house starts to drop. I would try replacing the furnace filter if you haven't yet and when the furnace is not turning on, look if it is blinking any error codes. That would be a good place to start, to get an idea of what may be going on.
