A close up look at the new kids on the block. Great value for money FUSEBOX consumer units. Go and check out these guys great quoting area for members. mastertrade.co... Follow me on Instagram Cjrelectrical
fantastic video as always Chris great to see you've made the change to RCBO only boards, I've only been fitting RCBO's for the last 8 to 10 years, already got my FuseBox T shirt and Winter Bobble hat!!!
@@cprfenom There are some manufacturers who want you to test the rcd disconnection times at a different ma rate , I have come across it when doing the x5 30ma (150ma trip time) I can't remember but I think it was an Eaton/mem rcbo's when it should be under 40ms reading going over and It did it with all the rcbo's but when going to 250ma at x 0.5(half) it gave a better reading and under the 40 ms disconnection time. I think it was in GSH electrical which covered this
Hi Chris, Enjoy you videos. Why didn’t you put two blanks on the right of the main switch? That way no need to move labels, or make the board over populated with blanks.
I've never been worried about the metal blanks falling out, but often they're quite loose (though doesn't look like that's the case with fusebox) and with a larger board it can then be tedious trying to fit the cover back on as they've slid around etc, whereas the DIN rail mounted blanks avoid that problem. I also think the DIN blanks are more aesthetically pleasing, though I guess most customers don't care what's under the cover!
I fitted one of these for the first time the other day and was very impressed for the money, 8 -way main switch board with SPD and RCBOs. Better than MK and BG because the lid actually goes on after and everything lines up! I only fit RCBOs and think Dual RCD boards should be done away with, much better job and worth the extra cost IMO. Completely agree with 'nuisance' tripping and isolating the fault to just one circuit. Plus they are Type A RCBO's!
Comment at the end there "this will contain a fire"... I think that was something I suggested an Amd3 board should do the last time I ever went on that electriciansforums. Got roasted for suggesting it should contain the fire when the regs only say it should be non combustible. Bunch of work-to-rule, and never above it, pendants! I agree, make it contain a fire, who cares if the case of the board survives if the house burns down around it?!
I've got a Crabtree starbreaker in my house, much prefer the idea behind those (plug in busbar), surprised no manufacturer has brought one out with a neutral bar too for all RCBO boards, would save a hell of a lot of screw tightening and cable tidying.
Yeah Schneider PON , no flying leads as connect through hidden busbars in enclosure. You can even slide a toggle across to isolate each separate RCBO or MCB. I always like to fit complete MCB blanks not just the cheap din rail covers.
I worry about how effectively those metal blanks are being earthed. They are a fairly loose fit against a painted metal box; there seems to be no guarantee of good metal to metal contact. A wire comes loose and we potentially have live exposed metal easily accessible to the end user.
Stephen Wilshaw metal inserts are tested for its intended use. If a line conductor came out and touched it you would achieve sufficient low impedance as long as the installation has it to disconnect. Plus with earth leakage device, it will trip.
I have the same worry as Stephen Wilshaw. It seems as if with a painted case, there is no guarantee the metal blanking plate is earthed at all, in which case it will not trip anything and will remain a live exposed conductive part.
Thought the same as Stephen, you cannot guarantee the paint won’t as as an insulator and allow the blank to possibly become live. What might need to be done is remove the paint from around the edge where the blanks connect with the cover allowing the blanks to make proper contact, also make sure the blanks are a tighter fit and not sitting there loose.
....Just saying why did you not order a smaller box and allow maybe place for one more space s as in an outside building ,not many circuits usually needed.... But I am very impressed with the product as to the old days 90's they thought of all scenarios. Nice....
Hi Chris, not sure if this would be the best place to ask. But my parents are considering getting equity release and spend loads on home improvements. I said a rewire is definitely needed. Our house was built in 1901, and over the years changing sockets and having a new extension, we know there is some poor wiring. I don’t think any lighting is earthed. Could you give a vague idea on how much we’d need to budget? I’d guess at least £7,000? But would it be possible to have a re-wire done in stages? Mainly to spread paying out over time? I’m trying my luck, but we live in Swindon, would you travel that far? Only asking as been subscribed to your channel along with Dave, Savery, Nick Bundy, DSS and J Beck, and you certainly give me confidence, especially as you do building work. If not, would you know anyone close to us? Sorry I’m rambling on, but when parents mentioned a re-wire, I was thinking of all the RU-vid content I’ve watched and thought of you. I’m not an electrician although did Electronics servicing many years ago and worked as a trainee service engineer for Clarion car audio. But have never felt confident to try a new similar job. Lately got interested in domestic installations but don’t think I’d ever try and get into that trade unless is was someone I knew would be very patient lol. Sorry for rambling on!
Fitted one of these for the first time the other week after seeing it loads on ECUK on Facebook- excellent boards for the money. Will still stick to Hager but if the customers on a tight budget then these are perfect for the task! Good honest insight Chris!
@@leebutterworth7465 Or the kitchen fitters working just next to you throwing them away... Yes that happened to me before, ran begging to the wholesaler round corner for some more, lucky for me they had a board that was being sent back for some problem so got the screws from that!
i have fitted a few of these and for the price they are ok, a dual rcd board not much better than a single front end rcd really, plus i am always amazed we can even fit a dual rcd, as there is a reg that says a fault on one circuit shouldnt affect another circuit, which obviously happens in a dual rcd board. They are supposed to be fetching out the smaller rcbo`s as well, so i am told. They could be improved like anything else really. And for all the Hager snobs out there, there was a time when Hager was like this very cheap, i worked for a big firm doing houses in the 90`s, and thats all we used because they were the cheapest.
I've been using these boards since I found them last summer. Not done an RCD board though, main reason I've been using them is that they do Type A rcbos and SPDs at such a good price so I can work to the 18th and as you say keep a fault on one circuit from affecting any other (well unless like the last job I find someone's stuck an outside light on, Line taken from kitchen light switch and Neutral taken to a nearby socket, that was fun to fix!). Only RCD I've fitted in the past year was in a 2 way garage board, and that's one a customer asked for even though I'd said there's no need for it. Coming off a 20A mcb in main board, protected by RCD there, could have just put an fcu in for the lights but hey-ho if he insists...
Richard Wallace ask your inspector if that’s the case why is it stipulated that the shutter must be metal and close down by itself with gravity to cover the plastic mcbs ?
The company is based in Scotland but I think the units themselves are manufactured outside the EU. These boards now come with castellated grommet strip for the rear knockouts and tail clamps as standard and are very competitively priced. They also do their own 25mm tail entry compression gland similar to Wiska ones but half the price.
Thanks for another video bud... Just wondering, do you save much by having a trade account with Master Trade, ie is it worth having an account or not really?
Yeah definitely worth it the quoting system is fantastic. Give them a call they are all fantastic I’m sure if you say I sent you they will do you some offers.
Hi chris any chance you could do a little video on fitting and connecting up an spd don't get the chance to do anything like that at the moment or get to see it even ,really enjoy the videos all very helpful to us trainees thanks for sharing
Have you tried Lewden boards?? I manage a wholesaler & the quality is far better than FB..! Lewden surprises people on price too, I'm knocking out RCBOs at £9.50 🤑
I love the Lewden boards and RCBO’s. They’re an established manufacturer with history behind them and offer value for money. Can’t see what the fuss is all about with the Fusebox boards🤷♂️
@@kevy427 Same here! Been using Lewden for 10 years almost now and neer had any problems, plus they are available from large wholsalers so if in the future you're stuck, sourcing replacementas is easy. I'm also struggling to understand why all of a sudden everyones getting excited with RCBOs? Its all i've ever offered when quoting for consumer units.
The guy who owns fuse box use to work for cgd (control gear direct) which are now the boards lewden use, I think he sold out to lewden then had to leave the industry for a said contracted amount of time he then set up as fuse box, I’ve used lewden but not fuse box as yet but I am sure the quality is going to be exactly the same as it’s the same guy that has marketed both.
CP Fuse box's director MR ROBIN PAUL FORSYTH was also a director at Control Gear Direct, which are Lewden devices rebadge. Looks as though he's set up his own business. Also based in Kilmarnock, as are Control Gear Direct. Its a bit like Live Electrical, whos director jumped ship from Chint to set up the own business.
Hi Chris, there is no requirement on BS7671 that you need an SPD for domestics unless there is medical equipment or equipment that the client can't afford to get damaged so it's really optional and the NICEIC inspector would not ask about the SPD (in domestics) unless they saw a reason to have one... However, having said that, I usually install with SPD as I normally use Hager with the 100a RCDs type B, and split load, I do offer the option of rcbo's too if they want to pay the extra money. So really the SPD, for the cost of it I encourage my customers to use it by explaining the benefits. Personally I think it's a good idea and good practice.
@@SamButlerUK I think you and me both agree that SPD is a good idea and recommended, but as far as regulations are concerned on reg 443.4 if the 4 idents are not required for SPD use (ident 1 is what I was saying regarding medical equipment), then a risk assessment will need to be carried out, except for single dwelling units!
Ground fault currents: At or below 0.5 mA that does not cause much trouble, but can be detected by touch or with a neon tester. 0.5 to 10 mA can cause muscular contraction. 10 to 40 mA can cause burning on the skin of fingers and difficulties breathing. 40 to 80 mA can cause cardiac fibrillation and severe burning of the skin. over 80 mA can cause cardiac arrest. Maybe the 10 mA combo's would be more appropriate for cord sockets. Hot water tanks, Dish washers and such, can live with 30 mA leakage current detectors, but things a human grips should have lower leakage trip. 5 to 10 mA plug sockets are recommended for bathrooms or around water. It is common for an old rubber extension cord left in the rain to trip ground leakage devises.
The thing about the plastic blanks is that they cover the unused busbar prongs (when you have a busbar that is insulated except for the prongs) after the lid is off - this unit has the separate cover for that. It’s fine, but it is more old fashioned. Similar to the non-captive screws in the lid - also old-fashioned. Nothing wrong with it per se, but those sorts of things are the quality of life improvements that you pay for with the other brands.
Pretty sure this thing also needs a circuit breaker on the line feed to the SPD. The thing about SPDs is that they fail short circuit. That’s not even a bug, it’s how they work. They try to break the circuit themselves but they in no way can do so safely. I think you probably want to clamp the tails in the tail holder clamp thingy *before* you tighten the main switch terminals. You don’t want to put permanent tension on them after you’ve installed them.
you don't need to be qualified for any of this other wise trainees apprentices can;t do the work you need to be supervised or competent. (shame cover screws aren't captive )
Metal blanks are useless. Clumsy to install. They aren't required by 18th, as the integrity of the fire proofing is held with the cover and the lid. Just my 2 pence. Personally I prefer the blank modules which are the same shape as an MCB, no chance or them coming loose or being interfered with 🤘🤘
Thanks for the info, on Master trade. They make it easy for selection. It’s now become an affordable option for clients to have surge and Rcbo configurations.
Really really good video, for sparks that need to also earn an honest living, I want to do the top job, but, customers / clients always say or think I can get it done for 50% less ( hyperbolic), I really need more videos like this, since 2010 I have always pushed rcbos,
Fitted another one today £8+vat for a rcbo , can’t go wrong Improvements needed .... neutral fly lead from SPD goes into number one , throws the numbers out on earth bar so I start at number 2 for earths to match the neutrals . Could do with the numbers shifting up one. No clip in guards for rear entry of cables , would like them to be added as an option to buy separately. Metal blanks , white ones would look much nicer than the bare metal ones currently available
Just bought an F1010MX and supplied with a 32A MCB with SPD live connected to it so only 9 ways left. There is no need for an MCB as 125A internal fuse and can be connected direct to the main switch bus bar connection. Fusebox spec says all 10 ways available. This is the first video showing this connection. All others don't even mention the SPD connection!
Always love your honesty mate. I’ve fitted these boards and the cost is brilliant. Completely agree with the blanks not coming out, there made in such a way that it’s impossible. Did you ever get a t-shirt from Fusebox?
My question to you sparks is, would you fit one in your own home if you were changing your own CU? Seem a little on the cheap side to me and I'm a believer in you generally get what you pay for.
It's not about them being plastic it's about them falling out ridiculously easy and going missing next thing you know there's a massive hole in the front of the board
If the garage is used as a workshop and you have machinery, if the machinery trips the RCD, then you will be in total darkness at night and possibly in the day if the doors are shut have no windows - dangerous situation...so I would go for RCBOs ...
Looks good to me and I suppose these come at a reasonable price. I see that the cover screws are not captive so careful not to misplace one! In terms of surge protection, when did you last encounter a domestic property that suffered damage due to a surge? - I’ve never experienced a problem in my own home (30 years in York - in the city) or when growing up n a more rural location. It would be interesting to see some statistics on how many properties suffer damage to electronics etc due to a surge. I bought a tube of intumescent “glug” but am yet to use it but you make a good point about containing / extinguishing fires. I’ve only been fitting RCBO boards for the last 4 years. Cheers
What will happen if some fool switches it off the fuse to the SPD. They flick them off one by one as say that one is not doing any think. Even with a label I hear some one say noting goes off so It not going any were.
@@Cjrelectrical I see some wired from a MCB am thinking why. And don't we have surge protection on them expensive power leads. There is not much in the new book on site guide on them.
100% agree on the fire safety, what’s the point on fitting a 18th board and leaving gaps for fire to travel. That’s the whole point of the tighter regulations.
sorry your wrong its not the point of the 18th edition regulations, if it was we would be installing consumer units with covers and lids that are fire proof (at the minute they're not there's no intumescent seals to the cover or hinged lid) we wouldn't be installing MCB's as they're made from plastic and certainly NOT fire proof. The idea of the change in the regulations was to limit the spread of fire from a consumer unit by taking away the accelerant of the fire (which was the plastic consumer unit) and poor workmanship in the consumer unit (one of the reasons were supposed to use a Torque screwdriver, most sparks tighten the screws too tight which crushes the cable and can cause fires hence why you should use a Torque screwdriver). The Regulations say the metal consumer unit is to limit the spread of fire there is nothing in the regulations about making them FIRE PROOF as an installer we can't do that would have to be a manufacturers responsibility, why do you think they haven't made it FIRE PROOF because there's no reason to. If you bring your cables through the back entry holes theres no need to seal the holes, the only reason for installing grommets and blanks in the top, sides and bottom is to keep the IP integrity of the board only
Get a life mate, were did I say “fire proof”? You did. I don’t understand what the point of your reply was... in fact don’t answer.. I don’t care. My point still stands.. (which you obviously missed) which is to limit the spread.. which fire retardant grommets and silicone does..
@@Roverturbo theres nothing in the regulations about installing fire proof grommets that's all come from manufacturers and inspectors adding their bit to make them selves feel good, the intumescent sealant is great for what its used for but you simply don't need to use it on a consumer unit or the Regs would say it , filling the holes with silicone makes the job ten times harder for the next man in there. if you do your job right then there won't be a fire and now were using metal consumer units there won't new a spread of fire
Isn’t the 18th edition regarding fuse boxes that they must be a metal enclosure. Surely installing plastic blanking plates defeats the purpose and is therefore a non-compliance?
What about the plastic mcb that’s sat there melting away when it’s on fire metal or plastic blanks wouldn’t matter then, also the regs doesn’t suggest fire proof hence why the cover and lid don’t have to have intumescent seals
Good Video! For non electrical savvy people watching your videos perhaps it may be worth considering explaining what the initials for the devices you’re fitting stand for e.g. S.P.D. Surge Protection Device, R.C.B.O. Residual Current Breaker with Overcurrent protection etc. etc. and the purpose they serve. With regard to fitting R.C.B.O.’s for individual circuits in the consumer units instead of common R.C.D.(s), wouldn’t the large increase in cost be prohibitive to your clients?
