I agree. I have a Ricoh c9200 at my job and sometimes I open the thing up and stare in awe of all the engineering that went into making something that complex. Also goes to show you why a machine like that costs $150k.
Hello, I am a specialist and trainer of KM engines since 2000. The lamp broke for sure because of the broken bearings. My advice is that when replacing the bearings and gears you should apply high temperature grease. It is also counterproductive not to change both sides at the same time to avoid skew, as well as to over extend the replacement of the bulbs because they degrade and lose heat output. Good job. From Spain Toni
Just a recommendation, if you ever have to take apart and service the fusing unit, please make sure to always change you heat-insulating sleeves on the roller with new ones. Changing the bearings is a judgement call based on what one see, but regardless of how "good" those heat-sleeves may look, I consider it a "must" to replace. When they do break, the failure to the fusing unit is usually "catastrophic". The low cost of these heat-sleeves is well worth the long-term savings. Another tip: Most KM production units now-a-days (whether monochrome or color) have default pressure setting for each tray (under the paper tray settings -> expert adjustments). I've set all my trays on all my machines to the lowest pressure and have noticed a considerable improvement on the fuser failure rate. We run several dozen KM production machines... Keeping in mind that fusing (toner onto paper) is accomplished through a combination of heat and pressure) - The thicker the paper, the more heat (and less pressure) will be applied. Conversely, the thinner the paper, the less heat (and more pressure) will be applied to maintain consistent fusing. The heat-sleeves will bear the direct brunt of the pressure being applied on those rollers. Reducing that pressure (and changing your heat sleeves more often), will save you lots of trouble. The trick here is to ensure that your fusing is always adequate. One can compensate for less pressure by applying a bit more heat (by changing paper-weight settings on the tray). My suggestion is to always check a proof print by forcefully rubbing your finger on the print to ensure that there is no smudging (poorly fused toner) and then compensate by changing the paper weight if you find that you are having issues. Personally, I have seen zero ill-effects from adjusting the standard pressure to "weak" and never had to compensate on the paper weight, but I can see that it could potentially happen, especially with thicker paper. I hope this helps someone out there.
Great point. I lowered the fuser pressure on my c6500 by turning the screws and I noticed much longer life. I didn't think of doing that with my newer machines awesome! Thanks for the insulating sleeve tip too!
It's not unusual to lose a lamp when a bearing or insulating sleeve go out. Sometimes the lamp can arc to the frame and blow up boards and solid state relays. Good idea keeping old parts around, they always are handy.
Been printing for over 35 years. I have seen washers, glass, metal shavings, plastic shavings, conveyor belt parts, bugs, cigarettes, blood in all kinds of paper, envelopes , etc. Also, bearing movement killed the lamp. Happens all the time on KM and Xerox.
The Lamp probably broke when the bearing and sleeve broke. The lower lamp is used when the fuser is cold. When the machine is running the lower roller will take the heat from the upper lamps/belt. You may have seen an issues if you had been running a heavy stock for an extended period of time. Lamps are not checked for continuity the machine looks for heat on the rollers and codes if the heat on the roller is not between designated temperatures.
I have konica Minolta C3070 , When changing the fuser belt , a displacement occurs after operation , which causes damage to the belt again. What is the reason?
Hello, Everyone. The trouble has been tearing for 3 years. konika 3070, mileage on the meter 320 thousand was native with kotskaya but alive, working. we decided to change it so that the print was normal without kotsky on the middle of the sheet, and as the engineers said, it soon came up. I ordered, disassembled, changed, but I repent - I put the screw one crookedly and it turned out to be a little lopsided. I printed 20 sheets and the belt climbed to the extreme part on the left and broke. I took the stove to Novosibirsk to a professional service engineer. I replaced the belt with a new one that seems to be compatible with 30 K. but I said it would be necessary to change the bushings and bearings. printed 1 month - maybe 900 sheets. The finger tore the lower black shaft. - again replaced there. They also printed it for a month - I decided to replace the bearings, I didn't have time - the stove tape broke and also drove to the left, too, it broke. I took him to Novosibirsk to change the tape and bearings with bushings. Changed - brought, I feel it climbs again to the left. I called, arranged for departure to our city, came checked, cleaned
As usual, a great video. I think that lamp might have gotten broken while you were disassembling the fuser. Typically, if a lamp is broken while the machine is powered on, you should get an error code directing you to check that fuser.
Thanks, yes I thought I would have gotten a code too. I should test that by unplugging the lower lamp and seeing what happens. The broken bearing might have cracked it and it still had continuity. I finished it off when lifting it out.
yes, correct. lamp inside fuser roller has a narrow gap. the moment you push that bracket holding the lamp sure lamp will be hitting fuser roller. broken lamp will give error code. i'm field Km specialist from Canada.
It's largely been RU-vid that's taught me how to service my 2 Xerox presses. I wonder how many of your subscribers have Konica machines? You were very lucky to notice that washer in that ream of paper. Imagine the damage that could have done had it went into your machine.
@@goranstankovic6054 just put the name of your Xerox machine in the search box. This guy has helpful how to videos. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IChwRAItjFY.html
I agree! I would love for other channels to start up featuring different brands. Konica works for me, but Canon, Xerox and others work well too. And I am interested in learning about other digital presses because I might change brands in the future.
I have a Ricoh c901 Graphic Arts edition (labeled as a Heidelberg Linoprint) I just got 3 weeks ago and I have found very little information on RU-vid about it which seems strange as I have been told it is a very popular machine.
hi, I am a fan of yours I love your videos a lot. I just want to know how did you get these orders from. I only print maximum 50 pages per day. How did get these orders in bulk quantity?. Please reply.
Years and years of taking care of customers and doing a good job. Some jobs come around once a year, others every month. Being fair to customers keep them coming back again and again. People find out about me by word of mouth. It takes time.
How old is your developer/drum/charge wire. Replace if they are past their life. I just solved this error with new developer. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6a4a4peqA8g.html
