Another reason i think the L2 is an engineering masterpiece none of this messing around just put in the slug and fire .Thanks for sharing always very good quality videos.
I sold my L2 for the M3 and could not be happier. The countless fiddling with the folding stock to reload, and the small magazine (only 8 bullets for a semi auto) took the fun out of it. for me. I do miss the semi auto aspect though.
Thank you. I have one ordered and your video was awesome. This helps greatly. There is not much info on these except Meathead on You tube here in Australia.
Thank you very much for the vid. In the new power kits they don't include spacers anymore, I was affraid mine was incomplete but after some googling I found it out. Also very happy to know they don't use loctite on the M3's anymore, now all I need is a pair of vice grips and I should be able to perform this upgrade too. I was shooting some round nosed slugs made by Gmax ( .216 ) with the standard smooth twist barrel and no power kit installed ; 24gr @ 900/ 917, 28gr @ 870 and 31gr @830. They hit the target all over the place so I hope that the power kit and the heavy slug liner will give me the extra boost I need to shoot the heavier slugs accurately.
Hi , yes indeed the new M3 models come or with the spacers installed from factory or the have a heavier hammer and so eliminate the need of that in the kit . About those GMax slugs 😬 I experimented also with them but indeed the don’t group for me aswel . If you need a good cheap slug that performs well take alsook at the JSB KO slugs 😉
@@Airbuks ah awesome ! Thanks for the tip mate. My main problem is I can't use HP on the 50m lanes at the gun club here. Do you know any good solid slugs
@@infernoreviews2529 slow velocity slugs with good accuracy 🤔 slugs need high velocity to get there accuracy so not really I had some good accuracy with JSB KO at 820fps once
@@Airbuks right ! Thats why I will install the slug power kit and heavy slugliner. The only problem I have is that gmax is the only manufacturer for rond nosed slugs instead of hollow point (hp)
according to Ernest row, the m3 only needs the slug probe. the valve and hammer spring have already been improved and upgraded. i also found when i fitted the entire kit i actually lost power only the slug probe is needed.
Thx , shot count is very subjective. It al depends on what weight slugs you want to shoot at what speed . I am getting about 2.5-3 magazines out of a fill with 30gr slugs at 960fps
thank you so much for your reply , my trigger was lose before I started so I tightened iy the piece you actually place your finger on to fire . I've unloosened it again now the rifle id cocking! I attached my air bottle , now the rear regulator won't fill and im leaking air out seems to be around the plenum and around the trigger section almost like its coming out or the handle grip . im new to all this air rifle world so needless to say slightly lost
I've got the rifle to cock now ,but as soon as o try to get pressure in the back gauge is leaks air out on the 720 plenum . once again thank you for you time to get back to me
Nice Video biddy. But tell me have you done the one for the installation of the 720 cc power plenum. If no, it would be great to get the update. Cheers
'Thank you for your nice videos , i have the impact M3 sniper in .22 and i instal a heavy slug liner , a barrel tensioning system , the slug power' kit and the tungsten hammer but the rifle don"t cock above number 11 on the macro power adjuster , is the two spacer washers that cause the problem? Thank you in advance!
Great video as always Brother! Installed my M3 SPK but noticed I could not turn the valve knob inward past the third line. The rubber ball was being compressed (unlike my MKII). Using using the M3 without the rubber ball for now. Any thoughts?
🤔 using it without the rubber ball isn’t bad but should not be like that . Do you still have the original hammerspring installed or is it a aftermarket one ( stronger/longer ) ?
@@ChrisFourt Same problem, disassemble the valve cover and it already has a rubber ball in front of where the allen key is, tomorrow I will try without the rubber ball in the spring
Are folks keeping the slug power kit springs installed with the new power block? Or using the power block springs? I’m not convinced the slug power kit springs allow more power, with a power block application
I still have it installed. I do believe it adds a benefit with the power block as that is improved specially for airflow and the slug power kit is designed to keep the valve open for longer time letting more air passed the valve . So both should help each other 🤔 in my opinion 😉
You noticed right 👍🏻 in the video I explained that on the mkii I do use loctide but the M3 has a little different C3 with a rubber oring or thing inside that creates friction to prevent it from backing out . ( I have been told 😉)
Hi mate took my M3 out in .25 yesterday everything going great it has had a slug power kit put in like I said very accurate ect took it out to 80 yards lovely tight groups but then I noticed when I went to reload the mag again the pellet probe was bent gutted as only used it for a few hours , why do you think it would be bent was it not install properly? At the time I was using JSB Heavy pellets didn’t even try the slugs. Also did you have to adjust your trigger on yours as I definitely can’t feel 2 stages just 1 long pull. Thank you for any advice .. Simon..
Hi Simon , you have te pin probe installed I presume? Is it possible that by inserting the magazine you bend the pin , if the pin is set to much forward it is possible that you bend the pin that way 🤔 Regarding the trigger no issue by me , but it’s easy to fix that . Make sure you read the manual to adjust the right screw 😉
@@Airbuks Thanks for getting back yes I have the shop I bought it from put it in power kit it was fine at first done some great groups at 80 yards then noticed probe when took mag out , Aso forgot to mention so as you know never owned a fx before come from S510R, The M3 so when the mag is out and you pull cocking lever back silky smooth , but when magazine is in its not its rough or notchy if you know what I mean is this normal for them very mechanical if that makes sense.. Thank you for your advice 🙏
@@Airbuks will do thank you, Also forgot to mention so as you know never owned a fx before come from S510R, The M3 so when the mag is out and you pull cocking lever back silky smooth , but when magazine is in its not its rough or notchy if you know what I mean is this normal for them very mechanical if that makes sense..
I just installed the angled bracket (weird that it comes with NO directions) only bizarre thing to figure out is that O-ring goes into the oblong looking hole by pinching the O-ring flat. Aside from that there is a TINY O-ring and only one hole it can possibly fit into, and it comes with a spare (thick/flat) O-ring for plugging up the original hole where the gauge used to be. I also am installing the pin probe tonight so this video is perfect! Much appreciated!!
@@KevinWood44 I still have to get to installing mine 🙈probably tonight. Did your slug kit come with 1 or two spacers and the rubber ball ? Some people reported that there is only once spacer these days and some reported that the rubber ball isn’t needed 🤷♂️
Hi, after installing the newer slug power kit with the larger tungsten weight instead of the 2 spacer. My valve adjuster wont go down to the last adjusting line. It bottoms out on line 2. Did i do something wrong or is this normal?
Does the FX Impact Compact MK3 .30 caliber even need this? I helped a buddy put his in but once we got to the pin probe installation we noticed the 22/25 caliber adjuster was too small for the .30 caliber barrel and would slide all the way in to it not giving us a chance to mark the depth if that makes sense. It needed a bigger adjuster it seemed, like something that was already .30 caliber
@@Airbuks nk you so much for responding as this clears a ton of questions! I know this is the pin probe but better safe than sorry, could you take a look at this link and please let me know if that is the cirrect part...
The hole kit increases power the washers and valve return spring create more hammerspring tension to open the valve at higher regulator powers while the pin probe allows for a better airflow true the transferport
Why did you use the macro wheel to adjust back to " 6mm and a tiny bit" instead of continuing to screw it on? Was it as tight as it would go at that point?
At power 16 and micro 4.5 ( witch is about the max adjustment) the C1 measures 6,5mm I put them the power at 8 to see if I am not dropping below the 6mm , this isn’t a necessary step as installing the slug kit you are hunting for max power but for my piece of mind I always like to know where the valve is at at 1/2 power to understand some things better . Also some people reported the couldn’t get to 6.5mm as the had different springs installed or over adjusted the hs tension. Ow at max power the 6,5 mm is about as far as it could screw on yes , still had about 1/2 - 1 turn left on the threads
It means you have to much hammerspring tension , due to adding the spacers you create extra compression on the spring and your settings before might be maxed out . Adding both together results in being unable to cock
I asked fx about the spk on the m3 and they told me this. You do not need to install the valve spring/rubber ball out of the slug power kit. The other parts are able to be used. Thank you. Best Regards, Melissa
Hello, made change to Slug power kit, but have problem with magazine. The needle does not want to go through the magazine. No problem without. All is .22 cal.
Hi , maybe a stupid thing to ask 😉 but have you removed the sleeve that sits over the pin probe ? In 22 cal you need to remove the sleeve as the sleeve is used for 25cal
How much faster I can’t really put a number on it 🤔 but if you want to shoot with a higher regulator pressure 150+ you need some more HS to get the valve open far enough and long enough to get them up to speed . For pellets you don’t need the slug kit , but it’s still possible to shoot them as long as you bring the FPS back down with the powerwheel
Puramyd Air says not to install the rubber ball when installing the power kit in the M3, it's on the web site when you grouse that item, any thoughts on this??
Hi, can you tell me why the end of the valve rod has to be 6-6.5mm please. When I tighten mine I get just under 5mm. For me to get 6.5mm it won't be tight tight. Have I got it wrong? Thank you, your videos are 👌
No nothing is wrong . If you put your macro wheel on 8 and micro on 3 then turn your macro back to 16 so the micro ends up around 4 I think the C1 measurement should be between 6 to 6.5 mm
@@Airbuks hi, thanks for the reply, I commented on the wrong video. I was meant to comment on your other install. My impact is the mk1 with the power plenum, does the same apply? Tighten the hammer seat tight and it should be ok? I've seen another video, the guy loosens the hammer seat to get 6.5mm. Won't that cause power fluctuations because its loose?? Thanks again for replying 🙂
@@honda16001 in that case it’s just a little bit different, in my mkii I put blue loctide on it and screw it to +-6.25mm let it sit overnight before I shoot it and you should be fine . Just beware the amount of adjustment you made on the internal hammerspring screw can make a difference
Hi mate. I just received my M3 sniper in .22cal. can i shoot 40g h&n slug by just installing slug probe with barell turning on slug port?. I want to shoot them at 950fps .. please advise
I am afraid not , you will need to put a heavier hammer aswel (or install the spacers and valve return spring that come in the slug power kit )to open that regulator at 160-170 bar
@@Airbuks Okay Measurement C1 need to be anywhere from 6-6.5mm. But You was checking your power wheel. And i think your power wheel was set On@16. C1 measure was something like 6.5 mm Later you change power wheel to @8 i thing and C1 measurement was 6.mm So my question is when i install this FX slug power kit i should put hammer spring on max. Power wheel on Max and install this kit and C1 need to be anywhere from 6-6.5 mm Thank You!!
@@tkielek24 From all the other vids I watched, power wheel should be set to “Min” to relieve spring tension, before taking measurement. This is how I set my C1 measurement.
@@tkielek24 oké now I get it 👍🏻 The best way to do it is to put your wheel ( macro ) on 8 then adjust the thumb wheel ( micro ) to 3 . Put you Macro wheel back to 16 ( the micro will be around 4 I guess then ) and then you measure the C1
Yes that’s a small screw that easily strips 🙈 I would take the cocking rod out and gently try to drill it out . Or heat it up so the glue melts and try again Or glue your Allen in the screw overnight and try again
I don’t know exactly by head but the best way to approach it is by marking the probe depth on the probe while you have the barrel out and then set it accordingly. I explained it in a few videos how I do it , there is also a vid somewhere on my channel with the general measurement
Still working with the L2 , don’t worry. I have a small issue with the EAR and I am waiting for a new part to be shipped to me before I can continue the videos with the L2
Hello again. I moved to this video because it's more appropriate when using the M3 afterall. Sorry for the inconvenience. Your Video is a great help! I've installed the first part of the slug power kit according to Your clear video, the placement of the two washers for the Hammerspring and the new lighter Valvespring. 1. Unlike You showed in Your video, after installing, I measured the C1 6,5mm at powerwheel 16 but only 6,4mm at powerwheel at 8 instead of 6mm. Is this normal? 2. After installing the C1 again, You put the C1 with Rod complete inside to the end and check if You see it on the Silver part where Your magazine goes in. Here the end of the Rod is almost less then a mm inside from the wall (Magazine side). Is this correct? 3. After installing the Valveknob, I cannot go lower then Line 2, coming from Line 3, it goes heavier and heavier and complete stucks at line 2 ( Cocking goes normal as before (a little bit heavier) at Powerwheel 16). How can this be? In all honesty, I have to say that, when I purchased the Gun, I couldn't get lower then line 1 - 1,5. So, when shooting, I think the Valve didn't open enough then, so the pellet didn't leave the Barrel. Thank You again very much in advance for Your Advice.
1. Try to put the power wheel at 8 and micro at 3 . And then measure it 2. That can be depending on the tune and parts installed 3. That’s very strange 🤔 are all the internals original oem parts ? Sounds like there is a longer heavier spring inside or bigger hammer . This in combo with the 2 spacer might cause that there isn’t enough room inside and everything binds up
@@Airbuks Thanks for Your reply and suggestions. 1. At powerwheel 8 an micro 3, nothing changes, still 6,4mm. Before the upgrade I measured 6,2mm on Powerwheel 16. 2. Ok 3. The buks isn't changed, all part are original as purchased. Is it possible the position of the 4 lines/groove isn't right? I measure about 15,5mm from the outside (with the hex 11mm) to line 1. Line 4 is then about 11,5mm. The inside pin in the Knob where the Spring goes around, is getting stuck to the end of the rod. When I put the Knob on the Valve housing on line 1 first and screw them together back in (without valvespring), the Chest has still 2mm to go when it stucks. That matches the distance between line 1 and 2 I cannot reach. I've done some measurements and it seems imho there are 3 possibilities: A. the Rod the C1 is screwed on, is too long or B. the C1 has to move 2mm more inside or C. the Pin in the Valveknob has to be 2mm shorter. I'm not sure, but with the Valveknob at line 1, stays the Valve completely closed due to the max tension of the Spring or goes just a litle bit open? Thanks in advance for Your opinion
@@chefrenty9155 the measurement has to be between 6-6.5 mm so you are good there . So without seeing the impact if you can get a measurement between 6-6.5mm this tells me that the valve rod is not to long . It could be that the valve housing isn’t installed properly causing the impression that the valve rod is to long or there might be something wrong in the valve knob . What valve return spring are you using ? Are the internals installed in the correct order ? Again without seeing the gun I can only guess
@@Airbuks Now I'm using the lightest spring, from the powerkit. I did The latest measurements without the Valvespring installed. Ik have the Hammerspring, Hammerweight, Hammer and the 2 washers installed as shown in Your Video. Is it correct, that at line 1 (Line 2 in my case) the Valve could not be opened by the Hammer (stays closed) and at line 4 or a little bit further, the Valve could be opened max? Iám curious, can You go lower then line 1 with Your Valveknob or is Line 1 the lowest setting? I think, I gonna try the Gun first (without the new Pelletprobe) how it performs now and come back later again with the results. There has to be some improvement (I hope)... Thanks in advance.
When I try to pull out my C3 it is like it is stuck in a spring and it just to go back in again what am I doing wrong. There has never been an adjustment om there because it was a sub 12 before. Help!!
@@lassesarnhult9283 if it was a sub12 there might be a return spring on the valve in the plenum to help with the lower reg pressure. But I don’t have any experience with sub12
Hi , strange that the second regulator doesn’t get air 🤔 as the process doesn’t need the regulators to be touched. Have you have adjusted the first reg by any chance?
@@leoleen5491 yes at the current tune I am using , it is possible to get more when upping the regulator as the mean idea of the slug kit is to make the hammer heavier to be able and open the valve and keep it longer open with the softer valve return spring.
Most likely there is a issue with the valve not closing properly, This can be caused by a few things My advice is to disassemble it again and see if you have everything installed correctly
@@Airbuks yea you are right, man i took it all apart and come to find out the new valve spring with the ball is too week to close it at the end part on the block by the plenum. I installed the old spring and put the ball in there and that worked. Do you think its because i have the hammer knob adjusted to the max? I currently have it on minimum while doing this but i adjusted it to the max. Not sure if that has anything to do with it
@@nephtalilucero8084 i thinking might have to do with the regulator pressure you use ? Can you tell me at what pressure your second reg is ? If you say that replacing the lighter valve return spring fixes the issue I suspect that you have a lower regulator pressure to shoot . When shooting at higher pressures the valve return spring doesn’t do much work as the higher regulator pressure is what closes the valve , but with lower pressure on the reg the spring tension is needed to close the valve strong enough to keep it from leaking out of the barrel
@@Airbuks i cant imagine its the preasure. I forgot what i had it on before air went out. No less than 125. I noticed in your video thst yours went right flush without yet having preasure. Mine i had to oush it back and hold it back with finger in order to measure how much the C was sticking out. I measuted 5.5 mm before i took the C off and i out it back on that measure afterword. But i had to push with finger to measure. Telling me the hammer spring is resisting quite a lot. As soon as i put the tank bottle on all air started to come out.
@@nephtalilucero8084 try reducing the hammerspring while installing the C1 and set it at 6-6.5mm . There shouldn’t be any resistance or holding it with your finger to measure it
@@Fernando_Woolybooger you can try that but in the M3 in my personal experience and tests in 22 cal I got a better balance with the original spring and no rubber bal 😉
@@Fernando_Woolybooger You can try that but in my personal experience and test I have a better balance with the original spring and no rubber bal . But in 30cal it could be that you can benefit from the lighter valve return spring and you can lower your hammerspring to open the valve far enough 🤔
I'm wondering why Utah Air told me the M3 doesn't need and a slug power kit because it doesn't make any difference to the M3 performance. When I ordered my M3 from them I asked them to install the kit and they convinced me it's a waste of money. I had a sour ordeal with Utah Air and I'm still not happy with my M3. I ordered a .25 and they sent me a factory .22 that they converted to a .25 with a used .25 liner. Also I am convinced the gun was used but they insisted that would be against their policy. I'm very bitter about the whole transaction.
Sorry to hear that mate , but I live in Europe and so I di t know how things are going there . It is possible that the recent models that are in the stores don’t benefit from the slug kit as I have heard some people say that the spacers are already standard installed on there M3 so the only thing to do is to install a pin probe and your done . Mine is one off the first M3 to be produced and I didn’t have the slug spacers in mine so I went ahead and installed them 🤷♂️
@@Airbuks It's only there to seal the sleeve part to .25 call. Mine got stuck in the magazine then i realized it was not needed there. Great video by the way !!
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