just to throw out some info, for f23a blocks that want to stay 86mm. besides using k20a pistons, you can also use j30a1 or j30a4. you can also use the pistons from the hybrid version of the j30 called a JNA1. j series pistons have a 30mm compression height. these are a close estimate of compression this compression is with a 53.8cc h22 head j30a1 = 9.8:1 j30a4/a5 = 10:5 JNA1 = 11:1 k20a2 = 11.5 for 87mm use k24a2 pistons
Im in the game plan process for my build. Piston selection and cam is where im at. My goal is to have an engine built as much as i can while making it daily able. For example, when I build the exhaust Im trying to make it sound as close as stock as possible while giving flow benefits. I may do flex fuel to run e85 but I need to be able to run on 91. I thought the k20a2 pistons were like 12.4:1? I was under the impression k20a3 pistons would be around 11:1 as well? Any suggestions on pistons that would be good but not overboard?
I got this accord 98 2.3l standar and I really want to make this build thank you so much to post this videos to share this knowledge is super good for me and everyone that wants to know
Hey whats sup noel, I been down and out on my luck.. my whole family just got infected with covid.. been really sick this past week but maybe getting better tomorrow hopefully. But just wanted to let you know you can just give the h23 engine to someone who can actually have access and a way to get it, thank you for your kindness and ill never forget it. Please keep building and supplying us with this valuable knowledge take care and I wish you the best of luck and good karma for you and your family.
Interesting this worked, i thought the h22 pistons were specifically designed to work in h22 frm cylinder sleeves, which f series can use more options regarding factory pistons, good stuffb
I think any cast piston will work on H22 ( providing it has same specs) Forged piston material l think it swell so much that it locking up inside if the piston to wall clearance is not correct. Mahle pistons is the only one l know will work. Thanks for watching.
@@sagittnet2158 correct mahle are the only pistons aftermarket that will work in h series blocks cause of frm cylinder sleeve any other piston other than those from H series probably would have a good ending due to material friction differences not getting along, but no confirmation of this just based entirely on research and articles im experienced with Bseries but own cb9 wagon and has jdm f23a and pulls around decent but with sohc topend is horrible, thinking of options and longevity and reliability between h22a typeS or g23 so your video is helpful 😉
I hope its not too late to send a question... Lots of great info in this video! I'm about to build a stroker NA H22 block, forged F23 rods, F23 crank with Type S H22 pistons, Skunk2 cams, E85. My goal is to keep compression as high as possible without killing reliability. 1) Would you recommend shaving the piston deck or is it okay to have it stick out 0.040? 2) What size head gasket do you suggest? OEM is 0.026. 3) How high can you safely rev this setup to? If you made it all the way this far, thanks in advance!!
Lots of builders have same setup like how you want it built. I assumed your block is 98-2001 H22 55mm main. Are going to have it re-sleeve or staying FRM OE sleeve. If staying frm sleeve, l recommend to use Honda OE H22a4 type S piston. This way you dont have to worry about parts compatability. The aftermarket Tyoe S that you can get might give you a piston to wall problem in the long run. Stay Honda Oe piston if you can and worry about something else. I'll leave the piston as is( 0.020" pass the block) if you want more compression ratio. Use flat valves if you like to raise even more coz if you use thicker headgasket, it'll lower it a bit.
Using thicker headgasket than OE (.026") will give you the extra piston to valve clearance if you plan on using sk2 cams but l'll clay the motor if l were to build it, just to make sure there's plenty of clearance.
Also, if you use a thicker headgasket, you need a adjustable cam gears and you have to use kstune belt tensioner or something similar. If you use a f23 belt adjuster on H22a4 block, it'll be tight. If you watch my vlog about the timing belt being too tight, just do the same, grind off some material from the adjuster and ypu'll be golden.
The engine can rev up to 9k, that l know coz l have some subs that emailed me back about their build. It all depends on what parts combo you'll use. Make sure yo use a good valve springs and good luck to your build. Visit zealautowerks.com just to give you an idea of your comp ratio target. Thanks man!
different strokes have 2 different piston heights on pistons ( location of piston pin from top of piston) thats why certain things got to be kept in check otherwise alot of work can turn into waste of time very quickly. Don't ask how i know this 😜
My opinion will be base on my experienced building the motor. Why it's not reliable like H22. There are lots of factors that contribute why, wrong piston to use. What l meant was, f23 piston have a offset and when oem k20 piston are use, you have to put it backwards to get the correct orientation of the offset like f23 piston. But doing so, now the valve relief are backwards. But no biggie, last time l built one. I shaved the relief to accomodate the h22 valves. Some deleted the balance shafts and not using a crank dampner. These motor vibrates a lot and w/o some means of absorbing the vibration. Something got to give in the long run. And the most killer of all is running this hybrid motor to the moon. Over revving it. H23vtec are made by honda engineer, but it dont last long coz, we over revved it like H22. The g23vtec that l'm gonna put on the civic is also questionable. I'm not really sure if its gonna be good, l hope it is. We'll find out soon.
If building a NA setup and build right. It'll last long and not rev it past 6.5k. It'll be reliable. I have a NA hybrid engine, w/c is 98 H22a4 block, f23 crank, rods and h22a4 pistons that l shaved the top sides of the pistons, so it dont stick out so much. I managed to used the squirters by shaving the f23 crank counterweight so it wont rub on the nozzle and l got crank balanced, I also used the oem balance shafts. It was a successful g23 setup and it last till l decided to be boosted. If l ever want to build another NA setup opinion. I'll use a h22a4 (55mm) block, sleeve the block, use JE pistons (FSR)coz it has the correct piston offset. Ofcourse it'll stick out of the block about .020", it'll be ok for na setup. I'll use the oil squirters. These will be a good parts combination.
You could, you can always dry fit the H22a wrist pin on F23 rods. If it doesnt fit, since it has a bronze insert, use a slightly loose socket w/ sandpaper and hit it till you get your desire fitness. If you have a F23 piston, use F23 wristpin and secure it on H22a piston. Does the H22a have a lock ring? If it does, your good to go.
@@sagittnet2158 no it does not have lock rings its the 1st gen h22a jdm with close deck.so crank also wouldnt fit.little delima but decided to go f23 block but can is stick h22a frm piston in iron sleeve f23?or go spend money and but k pistons 😂
@@josephdegoma1518 l have not try using OE piston on iron sleeve yet but it should be fine. It's not good when its the other way around, using aftermarket piston on frm block. Not sure if you ever see the 1st g23 non vtec version, way back on Honda-tech.com days. He used a H22 piston on F23 block and drove it for thousand of miles, he never have a problem w/ it. It should be good.
@@josephdegoma1518 if you do use f23 block, pls only use Honda F23 headgasket do not use any other. There are 2 brand that Honda use for F23, check the copper rivets that hold the gasket together. Remove the copper if its gonna be sandwhich by the head and block. I think l showed the p/n of the oe gasket l used. Also l've seen some have problem w/ oil leaking using kstuned plugs. Not sure what you'll use but l simply use a water coolant plugs and hondabond. Never have a issue and been using same cyl head for the 3rd time.
How did you assemble the pistons and rods? When I assemble my F23a pistons and rods they lockup/ hard to move. The wrist pin need to be heated up a lot to get then connected. What am I doing wrong?
Are you mating the F23 piston on f23 rods? If so, maybe the rods got damages or something coz wrist pin should be floating. It happened on mine, the aftermarket rod that l'm using, 1 rod got damaged and the wrist pin wont go in, l have to use a sandpaper to fix it. But if you are mating your f23 piston on different rod, verify that its not a press to fit wrist pin. Are you also building a G23?
I rolled a sandpaper on a socket and rolled it inside the f23 rod, that's how l fixed my aftermarket rod. If all of your f23 rods require you to heat them up in order to install it on f23 pistons, you might want to do some inspection, coz it should not require some heating.
@@sagittnet2158 Yes I'm using F23 Brand new OEM pistons and reusing the old rods. I had to heat them with a heat gun in order to disassemble them per the service manual. The wrist pin didn't fit freely in the pistons brand new straight out the box so I assume that need heat to assemble them.
@@1Man77 Does your F23 came from Honda Accord and what year model was it? 1997-2000 F23 should be a floating wrist pin. All f23 that l worked on, never have to use sny heat gun to remove or reassembly of it. That's kinda odd!
I have a stock h23a block and I was going to use a stock h22a4 head with skunk2 intake manifold, will I have any issues if also use the h22a4 pistons in the h23a block with stock h23 rods and crank
If you are using H23a non-vtec block. Usdm is H23a1 so l'll call it that to prevent any confusion. H23a1 block, crank and rods combine with H22a4 pistons. You'll have a higher compression ratio and piston will stick out .020" pass the block. People ran it this way, not sure how long it last. But make sure to have a plan on your setup. You have to use a hi lift cams, at least a type s, coz of hi-compression ratio and maybe use a e-85 for fuel. No turbo on this setup either and no aftermarket piston too unless block is iron sleeve. Mahle piston is the only brand l know that is compatible on H series. The H23a1 rods are press to fit and H22a4 piston is free float wrist pins. But you can always polish the bronze part to make it free float. I highly recommend to buy a aftermarket h23a1 rods even if its the ebay brand, they're ok. That way your rods & pistons are compatible.
@@sagittnet2158 it was actually the h23a vtec blue top I have a h22a4 long block I was only wanting to use the h23a block because it was freshly rebuilt with all oem parts
@@ek94banger48 l'll keep the H23a vtec as is if l were you. They both pretty much the same H23a have 95mm and f23 is 97mm crank throw . No mods on rods but still the pistons will stick out if you decide to to it.
@@sagittnet2158 ok cool i was only asking cause I have a good h22a4 head with a complete h23a block would that little set up work together I don't really wanna spend money on another head but my a4 block is no good and cracked so I can't use that either
You pretty much have a solid base to begin w/, having a sleeved block. You just need a forged piston and your are solid gold already,lol! Joke aside, yes, you can use a K20 87mm piston but there's a little bit of drawback, but its so minimal that you and l cant tell the difference. Piston height difference, k20 have 30.0mm and If you are using H23 crank you need to find a piston that have a 30.55mm piston height. Meaning if you use H22 block w/ H23a crank, h23 rods and K20 pistons, piston will be sunk a little bit down on the block. Actually its better than using h22 piston that will stick out .020" pass the block. I visited www.zealautowerks.com and did a research on your info and used k20 87mm info w/ 9:6.1 com ratio (-3,3cc dome) and it turned out to have a 9.82 to 1 comp ratio.(rough estimate). I didnt put any numbers for head mill and also for the block.
I suggest you visited zealautowerks.com and play around w/ piston info you want to use and l recommend 9.8 to 1 is a good start for a comp ratio for boost, but dont go higher than 11. 1, unless you are running e85 for fuel.
The info numbers l gave you was just my estimation according to that website, your'e still responsible for any decision you make. So for using 87mm k20 piston sunk a little bit wont make a difference, just try to find a k20 piston that will give you a comp ratio from 9.8 to 10.+ to 1 ratio.
When you pick a piston. Cp k20 doesnt have a wrist pin offset, Wiseco k20 have wrist pin offset, so make sure you also pay attention on how to place that wrist pin offset if you pick Wiseco, I learned to found out that H23vtec (bluetop) have a wrist pin offset like f23 piston.
I paid a machine shop to shaved it. Got tired of paying someone so l decided to use a 90deg die grinder and use a file to make it even. I was doing a r&d at the time,lol. That's why l did it just to see if it can be done and it worked. Made 196hp and 2nd built was 216hp( h22a4 block w/ f23 internals).
And also why l shaved it, coz too much comp ratio is not good if you're using pump gas. E85 no problem. Hi comp require a hi-lift cams and uprgraded springs. Use at least a type s cams
That block have f23 internals and as you've seen it. I was able to retained the oil squirters. It helps a lot cooling the pistons. But its a lot of worked. Grinding the crank c/w and notching the piston skirts. You cant just bend the nozzle. The pistons will chop it off if you dont modify the piston skirt.
How you doin brother? Yeah it's all up to you if you want to build a F23/ h22 head. Just want to tell you right out the bat. G23 build is not as reliable like H22. You can make it successful if you can do a lot of research and pay attention on how to build a g23vtec.( Lots of people have given up on hybrid, this is my 3rd g23vtec, hopefully it'll make it.) Now that l said that, if building NA, it's not that bad, try to keep your balance shaft and not rev it to the moon. If you decide to delete the balance shafts, swap it and install a ATI Damper and l highly recommend it. That's why l kept the oem balance shafts. Coz its free. You can use h22a4 piston on f23 rods and crank but it'll stick out a bit, just like my vlog. Some people have been succesful on their build like that. It's a good and fun motor, lots of torque.
F23 oem rods are not reliable on Boost setup, and you shouldnt use it at all on boost engine. But for NA setup, it can hold some power. Max to the point it breaks, l cant say.
@@izzat2804 keep it under 7k, just like H22 for longevity. But it all depends on the build setup. Some guys can rev it up to 9k but he's got cams, dampner and among support mods for it. The engine actually speaks for itself when it wants to make power. Hope that help.
