Great video! The only comment i have is the reason the felpro head gasket leaked. The felpro headgasket for the f23 has its rivets (what keeps the gasket layers together) in a bad spot when doing g23. It will sit between the head and block causing that oil leak you talked about. When i got the oem honda f23, the rivets were in different locations which worked. Once again, great vids, great content. 👍👍
Great build list. I didn't know the f23 had a offset on wrist pins like k series. I was always under the impression that the f and h series didn't have an offset. Thank you so much. Watching all the videos you have. Much approved
Thank you, l really like to build it with a aftermarket piston with proper offset, but l have to order a custom made. (They'll make it for you, but it thanks longer on the wait). JE piston have a offset but its for H22 (fsr) and l dont want the piston to stick out a bit. So l used the Cp k20 piston w/o the offset and it sit perfect onto the block.
@@sagittnet2158 I want to know about crank mains, do you use oem bolts or arp studs? I can't find any specific arp main stud sets online, I assume the mains are shared with other engines, similar to how gsr arp studs fit for h22 rods
@@midniter2001 l used OEM main bolts. H22 and F23 main bolts are the same. I checked the part number online but l choose not to use it. If you are using Arp main studs. The block has to be line bore to do it correctly. You can check it out on any Honda oem parts on line to verify it.
I just picked up another h22 head for 100 bucks! I'm starting to gather parts for a g23 build finally. I have my turbo f23a1/f22a torn apart, the f23a1 block is still good. I only tore it apart due to it having blue smoke on acceleration..then I decided to just go ahead and put the h22a4 swap in.. but yup.. this will be a great opportunity for me to build it on the side.
I really appreciate this video man i was gonna wait till i need a new engine after it blew up to get a k20 or something but since i seen this video im just gonna same tons of money and upgrade the engine in my 2.3 cl my plan is to follow your engine build to a t. again thank you ill be watching alot of your videos in preparation to do this
Hey i think i found some goos pistons the description is “Wiseco 02-06 Acura/Honda K20 RSX-S +5cc 11.0:1 CR Piston - - 6634M88” these went for 170, im using f23a5 block just making sure these will fit well
That's a steal price but wiseco piston have wrist pin offset unless you want it install backward like oem k20 on f23 block. You can use J30 pistons also, if you read on comment section you'll see. I thank him for sharing the info. Highly recommend if your build a hi-comp motor to combine it w/ at least a type s cams or much higher lift.
@@isaacgutierrez3445 I meant it's all up to you. I wont install it backwards if I use a aftermarket piston like Wiseco. You might damage your valves, I know wiseco have a deep valve relief, but dont do it.
That's my idea! Get those project that's been push aside. Your G22 will be same process and still kick a$$. Thank you and don't stop till you get it in to your car man!
I hope I shared your content enough for people to take notice of your channel 🙏 . I had only one head gasket leak on me that was oem. I've had great luck with the graphite head gaskets just my opinion
I guess everyone who has built this frank motor have different preferences, l myself never have a problem on using OEM but run in to Felpro. No wonder it's a stepchild, hehehe. Thanks buddy, take care.
It's a frank engine, variety of piston can be use. If you use a aftermarket piston like CP k20a2 piston it's perfect, the piston can be install normal. Actually the piston is not much of the concern, if using OE style piston, its your choice on how it'll be install. Oil seeping on headgasket and bearing spinning are the concern, if its not built correctly, it's a headache.
@@sagittnet2158 i used a p13 vtec head on my last f23. ive used the f22a6 head on a f23 in the past also. I used this head mostly because it's simplicity, same water pipe, less modification to the head to make work and since the f23 isnt a high revving block the torque from this head compliments the block well. b18c cam gears fit the h23 and f22b head. delta and web have options for cams. with port work and cams i don't feel like I'm at that much of a disadvantage using this head. less mass in the valve train also. with boost, the cfm flow of the head shouldn't make much of a difference compared to a vtec head. and most of all just to play with theory and ideas with these setups. i have considered using another p13 head but using this head is something i must get out of my system.
@@sagittnet2158 j30a4 pistons are nice to use because the valve reliefs in the piston are the same size on both sides. when you flip them there is no need to worry about piston to valve clearance. comp height is 30.00 on j series pistons
@@michaelelliott3456 that's exactly what l need, 1st G that l built had to shaved the k20 pistons exhaust relief so the intake valve wont hit it, coz we used a type s cams. And with the same comp ht, perfect piston for the G's.
@@sagittnet2158 it really is, i'm not sure why people dont use them. the construction and material look identical to k series pistons. set and boost friendly ring gap and they should make some power. with e85 they should hold up really well.
@@sagittnet2158 i have 2 f23a's in the works. 1 is a stock jdm f23a in a cb7 coupe. I have a set of k20z pistons i want to add to the stock rods and keep the sohc head. just something to get me by until the dohc motor is ready to drop in with all the turbo bits.
Hey man I love your channel I was wondering how good has this engine done you in the long run and has it had any major issues and if this is a realizable build
So far so good and pretty much got all the bugs out of building G23's. The last thing is the oil temp, if you do need a oil cooler to run it or not. I'm on a process of gathering all the data. Reliabilty? I say it all depends on how it was built. If you can pay a much detail on inspection of parts, making sure it's w/in limits. Use correct headgasket, proper way of sealing 2 oil drain ports on the head. Use a ati damper if your deleting b/s but l recommend to keep the b/s. ( l meant to use ati damper on mine but funds keep going somewhere, hope soon l'll get one). If your intention is for reliability but will see some fun on road. Use a k20 type S piston, comp ratio will not be too high. Try not to over rev it to much and lastly, get it tune. Have no issues other than like any freshly built engine that needs some fixing. If you follow or seen some of my episodes, you'll be okay. If you decide to use kstune headplugs. Smear some sealant on it for peace of mind. Only use Hondabond or Megagrey. Stay away from Permatex on sealing 2 drain port. Hope it helps and thank you. Take your time building it.
Yes this helps a lot! I’m just looking to do an n/a build and it will be my daily car so I won’t be looking to make any crazy hp just a fun quick torquey honda engine and I saw you used the balance shafts on the engine did you still feel the need for the damper
The harmonic sound is still there and folks tell me that damper is not to cure the elimination of b/s its for something else they say, but l think its better than nothing. Keep your b/s for peace of mind. In my opinion l still wanna use a damper when l can afford it.
@@sagittnet2158 better than mine 😆 I still don't know how to weld. Thanks for sharing with us. I'm thinking about doing the swap on my 4th gen Prelude. I have a F23A4 in it at the moment, but as you know the engine is OBD2. So it runs, but it runs like shit. Lol.
We actually have lots of option nowadays. If NA setup, Nippon racing pistons, your choice of w/c one you like to use for different compressiin ratio. K20a2 Type S, CTR and Type R will you the most comp ratio. It's your call on how you want the wrist pin offset install. Mine will always be like f23 piston offset. For Turbo apps, Cp is good or Arias and no wrist pin offset on those. Wiseco has a wrist pin offset and it's your call how you want it install. You can also buy a custom piston from Traum and it'll have the correcr pin offset.
Hi i am just curious. Did you ever change your fuel pump for the g23 build? And if you did what fuel pump did you use? I am planning on doing a full bolt on my g23 build and I can’t seem to find a fuel pump that can run 93/91 octane only. I only see fuel pumps that runs on e85?
I'm running OE stock fuel pump and it's good enough to support the power l'm making. I used to have a Walbro 250 lph fuel pump before when l have the g23 turbo. It's up to you if you want to replace the stock pump to walbro but be aware of counterfeiters. The hose that they supplied are somehow very weak. It burst on me last time and almost stranded me out the road. There's also another youtubers that suffered the same scenario, hose burst inside the tank. It's safe to use stock pump below 260whp l guess. More than that, lts best to put 250 lph at least.
Honda community saying f23 block can handle more than 400whp. How long it'll last we dont know. Mine gave out and l only made like 360whp but it gave out on different reason and it was bored out to 86.5mm. I lost a little bit of material on the sleeve. My latest boost project plan is to keep it somewhere below 350. We'll see what happen. If youre planning of making more than 400whp and its for these setup, it so easy to make. I highly recommend getting the block resleeve. That way you eliminate the block and worry about something elae.
Thank you so much! I'm planning out a G23 swap in my 01 Accord. This is exactly the info I was looking for! One question as I'm new to this swap (Im old school so have done lots of D and B swaps, but this would be a 1st). Is it possible to use the OEM F23 pistons in this swap? It is an NA build, no plans to boost. Just came across your channel, and subscribed right away :) Look forward to watching your other videos!
You might suffer a accelleration problem due to low compression using F23 pistons. Boosting it will be better but how long it last we dont know. Na setup, l say it's better to change the piston and you'll like it. I guarantee it. Use the NPR pistons from ebay(civic type r). Thank you and lmk if l could help.
@@sagittnet2158 Thanks so much! I didn't realize it dropped the comp to like 8.8 and no plans to boost so ya she'd be sluggish haha. I was more curious if it could b done without pulling the block. In this case, bought as an auto (minty car) and am manual swapping it.. sounds like Its prob best to just buy a whole h22/23 longblock and trans and just do a whole motor swap. Love the car and super informative posts! Any other common swaps for the CG Accords? Thanks again Saggitt
@@vintagetweed It's a bit of a problematic yes, but it's no H22 nor H23 when it comes on power. Reliability if what you're after is best to get H22, H23avtec is a bit of same threshold as G23, coz overreving pass 6.2k is not good. Since you have a project car to begin with. I say try it plus you already have the background, experienced wise.( d,b hybrid). G' is a fun motor build, just take your time and only use oem F23 headgasket.
@@vintagetweed k series will be all time best swap on any honda cars but engine is tall and oil pan hang too low. That's why l stay away from it. I need to ride low,lol!. It'll be nice to do the swap on Accord.
That's okay man, yes l have it re-sleeved. After the 2 previous G23 Turbo l had, l said l'll built it correct next time, that way l dont have to worry about blowing a block. Oem sleeve should be alright if staying below 450hp (86mm). I didnt use a good ecu and wastegate at the time. That's how it blew up. Later man.
It can be, it's like a hit or miss kinda thing. If build correctly, properly tune and a little discipline on how to use it. It's best only as a project not really for a daily basis use.
It all depend on what setup you want to build. I know prc will give you more comp ratio than using prb piston w/c l have built one before (prc piston). If you shoot for PRC piston and if your'e using hi lift cams like SK2, clay it, that way you'll know there's p2v clearance. Good luck on your build and anything l can help you with lmk.
@@cksnah252 It all depend on what cyl head you have at hand. You can use either H22 or F20b and both have same combustion chamber volume (cc). Only difference are the intake and exhaust valves are smaller on F20b.
Hello friend, excellent video. I have a stock f20b engine with a 0.5 bar turbocharger but 2 pistons didn't hold and broke between the rings. I plan to install nippon k20 type r 86mm pistons in the block of the f20b working on the liners. Do you think everything fits well and can take the pressure?
Salamat bossing! F20b stock pistons not really design to hold the boost pressure. It's the construction of it and also it might have to much comp ratio to begin with and adding boost to it is not good. It'll work for a while but eventually it'll break. My recomendation is built your bottom end w/ forged rods and pistons. K20 piston height is 1mm short than F20b. It might be a little sunk inside the hole. You might wanna research if anyone have use a k20 piston on f20b. I wont be surprise that someone is using it though. You can always pick k20 piston w/ extra dome to make up for the lost piston height to bring your plan static comp ratio. Are you thinking of bringing the bore size from 85mm to 86mm?
If you decide to get the block oversize, you might loose some of that iron sleeve material and you need all the metal you can get when it comes on boost. NA setup is good but for boost, it might not last very long. I'm just speaking from my previous 2 blocks that blew up on me. I had my 3rd F23 block resleeved coz l dont want same fate to happen to it and less worry for me. Hope you get your engine back in service, my friend have f20b also, NA setup and he rev it to the moon. That motor can take some beating though.
@@jordanmartinez7707 12251-PAA-A02 you can also try Victor Reinz F23 headgasket if you like. I never tried it before but another youtuber name GFitaliacorse. If you wish
Hi great channel, love the g23 build.With good rods and pistons what is the max rpm for the crank and bearings?On a NA setup.Will the crank handle 7000 rpms?
6.5k rpm should be max setup but we're not supposed to rev it past 7k coz of rod bearing spinning is a possibility. My striker recent dyno session made power passed 7.5k rpm. Thanks for upgraded valve springs and Ti retainers. I usually try to avoid passsing the 7k range but its hard for me to do on my turbo setup coz of the Turbo rear housing size l used, having .82ar made it rev up to 8k coz the power is being generated @6-8k. Its just a matter of time ti'll it give up on me. If you ever build one and really succesful w/ it, you'll know the g23 is rev happy but always keep it mind that spinning a bearing is a possibility when you abuse it. NA setup is not as bad as turbo setup, it's easy to no over rev @7k rpm.
I built a g23 w/ deleted b/shafts and from that experienced (never liked it w/o the b/s system) led me back to keep the b/s system w/c helps a lot in my opinion. But dont let me stop you from not deleting the b/s system. That's your call, but l do recommend to use a ATI damper if you do decide to delete it. I think it'll help the motor w/ a damper.
I was reffering to the alternator. If you are using H22 crank pulley, you have to use a Prelude alternator. Accord and Prelude crank pulley have diffetent numbers of grooves for the alternator belt and have a different outside diameter.
@@sagittnet2158 o ok kool thanks an I really was talking about h22a crank pulley u have to run when do a g23 swap I think it's da lower gear or something u have to run?
@@alanslimjones6719yes, everything that touches the timing belt has to be from H22, crank gear pulley, waterpump gear. F23 belt tensioner can be use also.
@@alanslimjones6719 f23 timing crank gear have different teeth. H series belt doesn't fit correctly. That's the reason we have to use H22 crank gear and thank you for watching. I'm making a nother vlog, l'm rebuilding one of my g23 using H22a4 block.
It would be a good upgrade w/ additional torque a g22 can give. I've never done a g22 but the process are pretty much the same. Nice catch of a r/d Accord wagon man!
so im running a h23a bottom block and a f20b manual spec head because i happened to blow my pistons on my f20b long block for whatever reason. do you think it'll make more, less or about the same power?
It might do a little less coz of F20b valves are a bit smaller than regular H cyl head. But since you have the torque of h23, you might not even feel the difference specially if its turbocharge.
It all depends on what and how you intend to use your engine. Some people love the short tranny coz they go out autocrossing and when they downshift their rpm is still up there. Some love long gears coz they have fun feeling that long coasting power. I tried short and long gears before and didnt like it on my application. I usually go to mexico and always start on 3rd gear. When l was using my shortest tranny( m2b4) l always run out of RPM from 3rd gear. I needed more rpm from the start and found it on m2s4 tranny. What l meant w/ that is, from the start, just slightly above 3k rather than almost nearly 4k and i'm boosted so when you're boosted. You also want that long gear. M2s4 gave me the short and long gear at the same time. I hope you get where l'm coming from. I'm not arguing that m2s4 is best but, we all have different apps on our cars. I respect everyone personal preferences on what tranny they use.
Hello sir what's ring gap for this set up?how much boost are planning on running ?I'm thinking about not building h22 and doing g23 but I'm a little worried about reliability?any suggestions will be appreciated ty great video BTW!
The ring gapped settings, I followed the manufacturer recommendation and its a bit wider than OEM. If I'm not mistaken I set in between .020-.024". I know I showed it on one of my piston build video. I don't know how much boost I'll be making but my target HP will dictate it. I guess. If I get more than 400hp, happy camper. Reliability? it can last as long as you build it correctly and maintain discipline to yourself for NA setup. Properly tune, No revving pass 7k(unless you support it w/ good cams). If Turbo setup, your warranty is void, lol! Just kidding, more work and constantly wrenching but once it is tune correctly, you just simply enjoying it. My recommendation is not to do it on your daily car, be it as a project. But if you are a person that want something different, it's not bad. If you have a 98-2k H22a4 block (55 mm), you can use the f23 crank , rods and use H22 pistons and you're all set. No plugging involve, no cutting the water lines, no worry on water pump and other gear associated w/ timing belt. But make sure to remove the H22 oil squirters coz it'll be cut off by the piston skirt.( there's more work involve to incorporate the nozzle not just bending it out of the way). Good luck on your project.
Thank you and the only thing l can think of is make sure to have it tune once you get it running correctly. If you're using H22 piston , retard your distributor that way you reduce the pinging. (Coz of too hi-comp ratio). Use M2s4 tranny or any Prelude short gear tranny you like. Once you have it tune, you can see where the highest rpm setting it makes power and try not to bring it (rpm) where its not msking power anymore. New valve springs will help the engine rev higher. Good luck on your build man.
@@sagittnet2158 first time with H23/H22 sh heads, darton sleeve H2B awd, force induction. I built mostly B series and please advise and this is for my yellow crx si. Worry bout cr-v Tranny. Project
I have 2 motor that both lower block are fully built for turbo. Both max out to 450whp. Final tune was 430 on the G23 @19 psi. The H22 was 410 @ 19psi both engines using base H22 camshaft.
@@MrSours69 it can be reliable if build correct the 1st time. Fully built the bottom end, it's a dabatable topic coz some will always convince someone that there's no need to get the block custom iron sleeve coz it work for them. Engines are not build the same, it might work for others but may not work for you. I learned the hard way, 2 engines blew up and on 3rd motor. I went all out. Got it sleeved, good ecu, known good brand wastegate and injectors. Didn't mean to preach but if its your 1st time boosting, if you can afford it on the first time, built your bottom end and you only deal w/ a headache for some small things.
@@sagittnet2158 yes I figured that I would have to build the bottom LOL. Plus I thought these F series engines already had iron sleeves in them??? But yes. I'm going all out to build it right the first time 💪🏼. Just not sure what ECU I can get that's tunable. Everyone uses P28 chipped or Hondata V3 but I don't feel like spending $1,000 just to do that because everything cost out the ass now, when I can get a $400 megasquirt ECU or spend $1,200 on a haltech ECU that's just as good as Hondata, and I can put those in any car I build.
Absolutely! If you have H23vtec block 55mm crank, yes. I have a H22a4(98-2k) block with F23 crank and rods and h22a4 pistons. I have a vlog about piston sticking out. That's the h22a4 block w/ f23 internals and h22 piston.
It depends on your application. Any tranny from Prelude are good, but for my personal use and driving application. I found it to be M2s4 coz of the 3rd gear is in the middle of short and long gears. Since the motor put out more torque than the regular H22, you need a longer gear to put all the power on ground. Meron akong M2b4( shortest gear tranny owned) pero pag naka lineup nako, and start on 3rd ang bilis maubos ng gear( boosted). So l want a tranny na may acceleration at matagal ng konti before l shift and l found it on m2s4. But it all depends on your intentions. NA setup, l still use m2s4 over m2b4 coz of the torque that the engine put out. Hope that help you out. Ano tranny meron ka bossing?
Variety of Honda engines can be swap, H23avtec, H22,G23 and K24. You can search under Accord swap and internet is our best friend. Honda-tech.com is a good source of info. HAmotorsports.com also, go to their tech section. Hope this help you out.
Great video! I have a question, if im staying NA or a baby shot of nitrous, would i have to upgrade the rods or can i use the stock f23 with upgraded rod bolts? Is it possible to use the k24 pistons instead of k20?
It's better to upgrade the rods and there are no aftermarket bolts for oem rod as l know off. Ebay rods are ok and comes w/ arp bolts. F23 block cyl max bore is 86.25mm. If you use k24 pistons(87mm) you'll taking a lot of material and weakening the cylinders.
@@cksnah252if you have the F23 block reesleeve, you can pretty much use any pistons you'll like and k24 wouldb be perfect. For your compression ratio, visit www.autozealwerks.com. for additional info
OE K20 type S have 4.25 dome cc and if use on g23 build, it'll give more than 11 to 1 comp ratio. You can can visit zealautowerks.com to give more comp ratio info. If you want more comp ratio for example, NPR racing have different variety of k series piston w/ more dome material on ebay.
Hi there,great video. I'm building a g22 with a f22a bottom, and plan on using a k24 (tsx) piston. To my knowledge the pistons is 87mm.Would tye piston need to be install backwards as the k20 piston? What compression would the motor be with stock head(maybe slightly milled like 0.25mm(10thou) and does ARP make rod bolts for the stock rod as I plan on revving to 8k and which head gasket would I use ? As I think the f23 head gasket is 86.5mm bore size Ps: cams will be reground to 290° duration retaining stock lift with breathing mods and fully gutted oem h22 intake manny . Thanks in advance
Quite a project you have. Not familiar much on g22 but as far as l know, your f22 block might go paper thin (iron sleeve). From 85mm to 87mm. Unless you have it resleeve to 87mm and you can use the k24 piston. Yes,k24 pistons has to be install backward like k20a2 piston when put on G motor. If you are using like CP, Arias pistons then no need for installing it backwards coz it doesn't have a offset.
Visit www.zealautowerks.com for a compression ratio idea. Just need some info type in and it'll give you how much comp ratio your project will be. If you get a aftermarket rods, it comes w/ arp rod bolts.
Headgasket, l cant tell you much about what to use coz l havent built a g22 yet. I know there's a lot info about it on the web as far as parts list. Thanks for watching and just msg if you need any help.
Thank you for the information,and thanks for the oil cooler idea..I'll definitely give it a try. Yeah if the k24 piston is 87mm ,all rather try and source a k20 piston. Keep up the informative videos🤙
@@jihaadmouton8669 Your idea is not impossible, some people might already tried it using H22 pistons instead coz its perfect on the valve relief except that piston will stick out pass the block but it'll give them the hi comp ratio they need w/o shaving the head. It just that the block sleeve wont last coz it'll be too thin.
I want to build a na g23 later for my 95 accord manual what motor mounts can I use I was looking to run solid mounts maybe h22 mounts?? What combo of solid mounts can I use thanks. Awsome video subscribed
Hasport and Innovative Mounts offer a variety of mount stiffnes. If you check their websites, it listed also like for street, race and so on, so you can decide what to use. I'm using Innovative mounts on the back, its the 2nd stiff mount coz l dont have mount for the radiator side. Tranny and driver side are Hasport 62a.
If aftermarket piston to be use, CP, Arias( those 2 have no wrist pin offset) they have a deep valve reliefs. It should clear but if you do. Make sure to clay it. If you watch or seen my short video. That pistons are NPR and l shaved the reliefs coz it was installed backwards( coz of the offset wrist pin). I clayed those w/ type S camshafts.
Yes it will, l was running it w/ H22a4 basemap using 97-2001 290cc fuel injectors during my engine break in period. But l really suggest to get it tune. Otherwise you have a possibility of damaging it in the long run.
At this point i rebuilt a h22a4 and for some forsaken reason the nippin pistons hacked up the cylinder walls so g23 is my only option atm but was unsure if the pcm would work at all only planing n/a and a tune would have to be alittle bit of a wait
@@fender6964 oh no! I assumed nippon racing piston was compatible on frm. Daannggg, l guess not. Sorry to hear that bruh. Yeah, your existing ecu will work till you get it tune.
Absolutely, visit www.zealautowerks.com and check your compression ratio. That way it'll give you an idea what your project will be. Kinda having a plan to start. It might be a little sluggish due to a bit too low of compression but l could be wrong. You know the g23 build actually started from f23 and h23 cyl head by a guy name Pirate Mcfred from Honda-tech.com. He's the creator of g23.
You have to use f23 pulley, that way you can time the ignition. H22 ignition timing can be seen thru the block. F23 block doesnt have that, its on the pulley.
It made 460hp and toned down to 430hp. The block sleeved can handle up to 700 according to LAsleeve but my power goal is under 500hp. Its because of the H22 tranny l'm using. I don't wanna keep changing internal gears if l go above 500hp. I know some guys pushing over 600hp on these frank setup, but they're using e85 and hi lift cams.
@@sagittnet2158 nice i have been looking at each vlog trynna catch up lol....pretty much you have rods and pistons stock head ect... and it put out 460?
To be specific, l'm using insane shafts that is made for civic with h22/f series swap. Don't wanna deal with swapping axle ends from H/F to da integra. Offcourse you save money doing it. But l decided to just bought the cv axle made for it. Less headache.
@@isaacgutierrez3445 l bought mine @ jhpusa and if you google insane shafts, it'll give you all info you need. There's also Hasport shafts and their complete bracket kit, a bit pricey but l think it's all worth it, you'll have no headache aligning the motor to the mount.
@@nathanlusby3292 F23 block has iron sleeve from oem w/c is a + for us. We can use a variety of aftermarket pistons. For NA setup are good, if staying 86mm and boost it, it can handle about 400+. l have it resleeved for personal preferenced, that way l dont have to worry about the block giving up for the amount of boost l'm running. It's pretty much all about what l've experienced using this block, less part l can eliminate breaking the better for me.
@@nathanlusby3292 It made 219hp on mustang dyno. Upgraded valve springs and type S cams. H23avtec vs g23. I'll pick g23vtec coz of additional torque and it accelerate faster than H23. But for reliability, both are much the same. It breakdown easily coz of how we use it. Overreving is number 1 cause. Build wise, H23avtec is easier than G23vtec.
Hey dumb question would i be able to run f series cam gears in the h22 head so i dont have to use the timing gears from the h22 on the f23 i hope that makes sense
H22 T belt wont fit on f23 crank gear. You can use obd1 or 2 H22 crank gear but make sure you have all associated parts for obd1. Obd2 crank are integral part(gear and spacer). Hope that's the gear you're asking. Cams gears wont fit either. So pretty much everything is h22. Use obd2 cam gears, the key are built in on cam gears. Unlike obd1 cam gears, you have to get a set of keys. But any B or F series key for the gears will work.
if i want to install k20 pistons in my h23a1 the intake valve reliefs needs to face the exhaust valves then? also, the k20 piston has a floating pin and the h23a1 are press fit, can the k20 pistons be installed on h23 rods?
You can't use a k20 on H23a1 block coz it has FRM liner, unless block been iron sleeve. If you want to use the block and h23a1 crank and rods for a hybrid, use a oem h22 pistons. Piston will stick out .020" pass the block, or if you can get a h23avtec pistons and rods, thats the best. You end up having a H23avtec in your hand. You can use the floating piston on press fit, just make sure to install the locks.
You only use the k20 pistons if you're building a g23vtec. That is using f23 block crank and rods because it has a iron sleeve. H22, h23a1 or h23vtec require oem piston due to frm sleeve, or mahle piston are compatible w/ it. Except F20b, it's iron sleeve. You'll get confuse if l tell you what you can do to H block, but l do have a vlog about "Piston sticking out" that one is h22a4 block were l'm using f23 crank and rods w/ h22 piston. I'm still using the oil squirters too, but it require a lot of work. It's not just bending the nozzle. If you want anymore info just msg me and l'll help you out for any question. Thanks for watching.
@@sagittnet2158 I want to build an f23 but with an original f23 head and I have read that for what I want to do the k20a3 piston could give me a compression between 10.5:1 to 11.5:1 approximately but that with the k20a2 and the k20a it would be much higher due to the dome/dish piston model vol
I don't see why not but the problem is, it might not last long coz of the tune. There is no factory ecu for it. You can try using H22 ecu but who know how long it'll last. If you have a spare car and willing to try it.
I just had a head gasket blow on the dyno on a g22 turbo build . I was using an h22 gasket , what gasket do you recommend for the g22? Any advice would be great. I was getting coolant leaking into the a cylinder somehow, I’ll be taking it back apart this week
That's not good, not familiar w/ g22 build. I'm not sure if f23 and f22b1/2 block have deck similarity other than different cyl bore. You can try f23 headgasket but use oem only, coz felpro gasket gave us a oil leak at the back side.
Get a better shop. Re-deck the block. Re- surface head and, use h23 headbolts and, h23 head gasket. Get arp head bolts your going to need them. As for timing belt. Use genuine Honda or, AutoZone one don't get the fancy blue aftermarket one.
If it's cast piston, it might not hold for long. The problem w/ cast aluminum piston from K20 is the ring land. I know you can buy aftermarket like NPR pistons, but when it comes to boost, all bets are off. Even a forged piston sometimes the crown on valve reliefs breaks off too. That's why you'll see lots of stock H or K motors breaks, it'll give you a good rush only for a while then either piston or rod will eventualy break.
@@corona8657 any well known k20a2 aftermarket brand can be use. Be mindful on static comp ratio to run for boost and as you know when building G23 that the piston wrist offset has to be install like OE( but others dont mind it). Cp piston on other hand have no offset so no worry there. Wiseco has a offset so it's all up to you.
Hi sir can you tell me if a f23a1 racing belt kit will fit on a F23Z5 engine hope you can help me please any information will be appreciated 😊 thankyou
F23z5 still be part of Honda F23 engine family. I didn't know that you can buy a racing timing belt or performance kit for F23 line up. But it should fit with no problem I think.
I'm not sure if you are referring to what l have. I'm using a f23a4 block but l'm using H22 timing belt w/ h22 gears.( everything that touches the timing belt are from H22)
@@sagittnet2158 hi mate thanks but I'm wanting to keep the original head on which is a SOHC VTEC engine so I don't want to put the h22 head on just wanted to keep the original engine as it is mate
@@misunderstoodvtec8299 Ok, yes it should be the same. Here in the US it's F23a1 to F23a7 and Honda sells the same engine to other countries w/ a different letters. Your F23z5 should be the same timing belt as F23a1
@@sagittnet2158 hi mate ok you really no your stuff in the Honda scene ok thankyou I was just wondering if It did because I didn't want to waste money on a F23Z5 engine to not fit if you get me 👍
The block are all the same, some f23 have tha ulev thing on the valve cover.( not sure what that is). All H22 cyl head casting are all the same. Obd1 h22 has hydraulic LMA and obd2 h22 has spring LMA. If you can find a type S cyl head have a upgraded valve springs and hi-lift cams. My opinion, the heads are 20+ yrs old, it's a good idea to change the valve train. So any cyl head from 92-2k is good.
If it's build correctly and NA setup it can be and not reving it above 7k. I got a NA engine setup and l used h22a4 block, f23 crank n rods w/ modified h22 pistons and never had a problem till l decided to build another engine for boost.
This g23 l got in present, l dont know how long it'll last. It's hard to not rev it pass 7k coz l think its because of my turbo rear housing (.82) setup being all that power is carried all the way to 8k. It's so easy to get carried away.
Hi, I have two questions: (1.) With the K20 pistons and F23 rods will there be any clearance issue to worry about? (2.) Converting from AT to MT in 97 Accord what bracket will I need to run the innovative engine mounts. Planning on using the F23A block. Thanks
If you are using Oem k20 pistons, valve piston clearance are a bit close. It'll smack if you happen to snap a belt due to pistons are installed backwards if using on f23. If you are confident holding a grinder. You could grind and widen those exhaust valve relief to copy the intake relief. I've done it before with no issue. But it's all up to you and you cant use a hi lift cams only type s if you have it. We made a video of it, l'll see if l can link it to you so you can check and see about the pistons valve relief.
If running aftermarket, you can have the block oversize to 86.5mm., 87mm is a no no (start fresh) and simply use cp pistons so no worry about the offset. As far as your tranny bracket mount, is your Accord a Ex or LX? Check how many bolts holding the back tranny/eng mount. Ex have 4, others have 3, that way you know what to order and just simply use accord rear bracket. I think you can use the auto rear bracket. Try it 1st, if it dont work, you can always install and remove it. Also l think nowadays, you can buy a auto to manual conversion mounts. No need to remove the bracket at the tranny side. Hope that help.
@@sagittnet2158 Hi Thanks for the quick response! I will be using aftermarket pistons. I'm planning on getting the same ones you got. Also, just to ask; the only pistons that can be use is the K20? What about aftermarket F23 ones?
@@Open90 Someone told me and made a comment that J series piston can be use and it has the correct piston offset also. I mainly used cp pistons so l dont have to deal with the offset( oem k20 piston need to install backwards). If your setup is NA, H22 piston can be use but there are trade off, it'll stick out and you need to resleeve the block and bore to 87mm.
@@Open90 Some guys install a h22 head on f23 lower block assy and boost it. Not sure if accleration at low rpm anygood coz the compression is a bit low. If you are not in a hurry. You can special order a piston from CP with correct wrist pin offset and piston height. It cost the same as regular offshelf. It just takes a bit longer to get. Check out J series piston, it might give you an idea.
You can use a k20a2 or H22. It all depends on what setup you're build is. You can use H22 if you have the block re-sleeve to 87mm and l recommend to use JE h22 fsr piston coz it has a offset like f23 piston. But you have to be creative on it. If you want no hassle of r&d, stay on using k20a2 pistons or the civic type r. Check out "Yooitszen" video or search g23vtec turbo. We used npr civic type r pistons that l shaved some material on it. I have a "short video" of it if you want to see it.
@@isaacgutierrez3445 You'll be happy on k20 pistons. If you're using oem, dont forget yo turn piston around on the block. If its Cp, no worries about the offset.
Your ignition timing is off? Are you using H22 obd1 dizzy? If using aftermarket, sometimes you cant set the ignition timing coz it already max out. Check your camgears and crank alignment, make sure it's all good. You can shave a little bit of the 3 ears w/c ever side you need to and start from there. Hope that'll help you.
Yes I had to advance the timing more but I figured it out.....the gears and crank were on point....what I did wrong was i put the f22 interior shaft on the h22a distributor housing.
Use H22 crank timing belt gear, and use either H22 or F23 belt tensioner. If using H22 obd1 crank timing gear, make sure to use a spacer behind the gear. Obd2 H22, spacer not require due to gear has a integral spacer plate for the crank sensor.
@@monta1258 l got mine from O'reilly but you can get it to any other autoparts. Just ask for it over the counter and ebay sell those plugs also. The expansion freeze plug, you still have to modify it a little, need to get the washer to fit the hole.
Yes, there is a difference. The k20a2 pistons valve reliefs( intake & exhaust) are almost identical to H22 piston. Unlike the base K series w/c you'll have a contact coz of the crown. If you are building NA and on a budget, you can use NPR pistons. We've used it before. You can see it on my short viseos. You dont have to do it like I did( shaved and all) just put it in backwards and you'll be ok.
@@sagittnet2158 thought on NIPPON RACING K20 K20A2 PISTONS RSX PRB TYPE S FLOATING PNC OVERSIZE 86.50MM NPR, just wondering if the over size will affect anything
@@isaacgutierrez3445Building NA will be perfect for the 86.5mm. You just need to send your block to be hone to accept a new piston size. If you boost it, you might wanna back down on how much pressure you put coz now the cylinder liner is much thinner. Oem maximum bore on f23 is 86.25mm. I've used a 86.5mm w/ turbo. But it gave out due to not using a s300 and no name wastegate.
It's not a problem. I'm building one now. Thanks for how to build it .thinking about turning it long ways and making it a rear drive and maybe using a honda s2000 differential
