Max is the real deal. Talked to him for about 20 min of HIS time just to get me in the right head space to make an educated decision. Wish I met this guy sooner. He’s the only dog in town offering full CNC porting of the small engine heads. Does a LOT more than just roller rockers but does those flawlessly. Good chat today Max and many many thanks friend. Great video and love the exploration on how to cut pushrods to the EXACT length per side.
This video is a great example of everything that you do NOT want to do with setting up rocker arm geometry; because it relies on all the misconceptions of old thinking of what defines rocker arm geometry, while trying to incorporate MID-LIFT geometry principles in its illustration. First off, NEVER worry about where the witness mark is at on the top of the valve. Where the roll pattern is at, makes no difference, and is certainly NOT indicative of "correct geometry." You can have the wear pattern perfectly centered, and the geometry be on Mars. > Why? Because the stud, or mounting pad on most engines leans into the valve center-line, so when you change the length (height) of the valve, or change valve lift, or buy a rocker that cannot possible anticipate the different dimensions each head manufacturer may use for the stud to valve positions, then each head model, each valve lift, each rocker brand is going to have a collision of differences that makes predicting the length of the rocker to fit these variables, IMPOSSIBLE. All that matters is the ANGLES of ROTATION. > Any rocker arm that REQUIRES an "undercut" push-rod tip, as stated here, is obviously to correct for the incorrect angle and height of the adjusting screw or cup, which allows that poorly designed rocker arm to over-arc at such an obtrusive angle with the push-rod's full open position, that it needs to be undercut to provide clearance. This too is 1960s mistakes. This is exhibited further by the way the "0.797" center-to-center dimension is shown for the adjusting screw (at 14:36 minutes in of the video), which is taken at this grossly obtrusive angle, to make another point about rocker ratio change from over extending the adjusting screw. This measurement needs to be at the engine's design geometry, not a random, twisted angle that does not represent the push-rod angle to the valve. > Whether you have a stud system, or stand system (aka "Shaft" rocker system), the RULES are the same, and only the method of adjustment changes. In ALL cases, what is important is the SHAFT'S center-line height in relation to the ROLLER center-line height, measured in the CLOSED position. While this video attempts to make that point, without regard to doing in the closed position, it confuses the viewer with the same misguided conceptions of where the roller tip sits, and how to measure the stand and adjust it. You NEVER use the wear pattern as a guide for setting rocker geometry, because you can easily be .030" to .080" off, and this would cost you over 10 degrees of cam duration. > Anyone wanting to set their stud mount geometry easily, can get the MID-LIFT principles by going to: www.mid-lift.com/TECH/TECH-Installed-G1.htm However, anyone who needs a complete understanding of design and application, plus much more, can get the book at: www.mid-lift.com/MID-LIFT_ARAT-2016.htm
Thank you for the video. I was wanting to find out 2 things how to chose the right ratio rocker and what is the difference between the venom and light weight rocket series from Gage.
For any future readers as I’m way too late, the Venoms have needle bearing rollers, the light weights rotate on a bushing bearing. Both have replaceable parts. 👍🏻
Wow. Video camera focused on a computer screen. I remember doing stuff like this in the late 90's. I focused so much on the horrible videography that I didn't even pay attention to the video.
