Galaxy Photography with a 10 YEAR OLD Camera? 

I think there is a lil bit

I think there is a difference but comparing the prices. I would chose the rig with the Xsi

@@tahademir27 Sure, if you wanted to limit yourself to only easy, bright targets. I'd like to see this camera perform on any faint nebulae. The difference between those two images are huge, it's not even comparable

@@Tvrtko_I There's a big difference.

Big difference. Sure it’s not the best photo of andromeda but it is inspiring to see it done with cheap gear.

I'm still using an almost identical rig for nebulae, except with a dedicated astro cam. I have the Zenithstar 73 too which is a really nice instrument and quite affordable, and a HEQ5 which I did the Rowan belt mod for after watching your video Ruzeen! - as it gave me the confidence to do it! Autoguiding graph was definitely much improved afterwards. My latest project is trying to image Andromeda too with this rig from Western Australia - it's very low to the north but I worked out last year that it rises above the treetops for an hour or two at this time of year. Your northern hemisphere astrophotographers are very lucky to have our closest neighbouring galaxy high in your skies, but I guess we have Carina Nebula and targets like Omega Centauri and Centaurus A down here as a trade off.🙃

❄️❄️❄️ hn n 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

I would greatly love a current how to! This seems like the most logical and efficient way for me to get into astro photography but as you state in the video the processing is where the brunt of the work is done.

ye show the workflow.

I mean, they were taking pictures of nebulae in the mid to late 19th century. This would be totally fine

Thank you, Roger!!

You would know, Aleix! Thank you brother

hi i have a great dslr can someone suggest what i need as a beginner?

@@JZINGER1 You could simply mount your DSLR camera on a star tracker and that would be a great start. There are some nice ones in the Sky Watcher Star Adventurer series (2, 2i, GTi) as well as the iOptron SkyGuider Pro mounts.

@@JZINGER1 My suggestions: First you should have fun to go outside at night when its sometimes freacking cold and enjoy the night sky. Second I would suggest a tripod for longer exposures. If it's still fun then a star tracker like the one mentioned above seems a good choice (Star Adventurer GTI). And of course get into some processing skills like stacking ... And my last tip: Don't compare your pictures with Trevor, Nico, Chuck, Dylan or the Star Hunters ... they truly master every step on this way ...

@@JZINGER1 As the others said, it's worth getting out and learning a bit of the sky. For Milky Way images you can do that with any standard lens on a tripod, just shoot short exposures and stack them. It's really, really easy to spend a bunch of money really fast in this hobby, and not even on big ticket items. There are very few items you truly need, but there are tons that make life easier and your images a little better. If you're wanting to shoot larger nebulas or the few big galaxies, you can easily do that with any good telephoto lens and a star tracker. If your DSLR has a built in timer/shutter bulb then that's great. You want the ability to tell the camera to take 80 exposures of length X and wait Y seconds between images. If it doesn't have that, or if doing so is cumbersome, a programmable shutter timer like this (PIXEL Wireless Timer Remote Control E3/N3, don't want to post a link and have my comment deleted, but it's on Amazon and reasonably priced. That is the Canon version, I'm sure there's a Nikon or Sony one if that's your jam.) is very, very useful. You can reasonably do one night of programming single exposures over and over again, but it's worth the $50 to get a timer. If you try to take pictures and wind up having issues with dew or frost, you'll want a lens warmer/dew heater. If you don't already have one, a good headlamp with a red/white switchable light is also handy, particularly if you're lucky enough to have dark skies. I like the Coast 19291, which is cheap and goes through a set of batteries in ~40 hours. There are rechargeables, but they're significantly more expensive. Whatever you pick, make sure it has a red lamp as an option, as red light doesn't affect your night vision nearly as badly. If you're in a city this may not be an issue at all, and a lot of these RU-vid guys do everything with their back porch lights on then shut things down once everything is set. I like to see the sky and I live in a deep dark part of the country, so on a new moon it's genuinely impossible to see what I'm doing without some help.

Upgrading to a dedicated camera depends on how warm it gets where you live. When I used to use a DSLR it was a great performer in winter, but in summer became a hot noisy mess. Also a dedicated camera allow you to reuse bias and dark frames as you can keep the temperature the same for different targets.

Thank you 😊