Still running the Magura MDR-P. 2mm thick, and a true two-piece design. I have read some complaints of rattling, but I've had no issues after almost 18 months of use. Not to mention, CL is available, and considerably less expensive than say the Galfer
I have replaced my rear shimano ice rotor with GALFER Disc SHARK 2mm Rotors. I have saint brakes. The biggest differences I found are: The Galfer take some time to warm up and to ride well, I feel that the more you ride the better they get making them ideal for long DH days. The initial bite of the shimano rotors is more aggressive. Can't necessarily say is a bad thing that Galfer intial bite a bit softer as in stressful situations and when you panic and press too much brake, the Galfer will not lock as aggressively as the shimano. Galfer stay true and don't warp from heat so the pads are getting used evenly whereas the shimano rotors definitely get warp from heat and eat the pads unevenly. I haven't tested them in the wet yet. I like the Galfer overall.
I've used the 223 rotors with the correct +43 adapters. They are amazing performers without pulsing. They wear down the inner part of the rotor slightly but when you use the correct adapters, they contact all the way to the outer edge.
Another good one! I use the 2mm thick Trickstuff HD 6-bolt 180mm rotors front and rear with my Deore 6100s and won't be looking at any other rotor again. They were the straightest rotors out of the package that I have ever bought (but still needed some love on my truing stand to be considered straight for this wacko😅) They have a very solid lever feel, no pulsing, no weird noises coming down from speed and they have remained dead nuts true under my 210lbs. Looking forward to hear what you think about these Sharks!
220mm/203mm Magura MDR-P my preferred rotor. Tried a few different Sram rotors but after I found the Magura MDR-P I havent went back, I just put a set on my other bike.
For those that watched the video to find out IF they were worth the hype...yes they are. I've been using Saints for years (I only ride enduro and DH) and I've experimented with a lot of discs. These are by far my favourite, and I won't go back to anything else. To put it simply, more modulation and much less effort needed to brake hard. I was surprised at how much difference they made, especially with grabby brakes like the Saints. I paired them with Galfer race pads
Tu banks for sharing your experience. Just for trying them on the bike stand I can feel the grab we’ve knows from the wave discs. Can’t wait to try them on the trails!
3 years on formula monolitic rotor... the first 2 or 3 rides the rotor was loud, after that dead silence and that with shimano metal pads on shimano 8120 brakes...And they are no longer 2.0mm thick but 2.3mm so I can't wait to see how they perform
I'm confused. If that's a 200mm rotor how did the previous owner manage to set the pads up too far inside? Did they manage to find an adaptor that's a few mm *smaller* than 200mm? It sounds much more likely that its actually a 203mm rotor and they were using an adaptor for 200mm rotors.
My new bike came with HS2 rotors paired with Sram Code SLV brakes. While I’m still not in love with Code brakes the rotors are a noticeable improvement. They make the bite point snappier (I have used Code brakes with Centerline rotors in the past) and they are also a lot harder to bend. Definitely sticking with 2mm thick rotors from now on but I am eyeing those Cura brakes.
These are extremely good in the dry, however in the wet conditions we have in Scotland they end up lacking in bite and therefore power. They seem to hold too much water and dissipate heat too well this then means that they are never at working temperatures which leads to lack in performance
I've used 220mm HS2 and found them great for power but annoying for pad alignment with SLX 4 pots with too much rubbing. Also used rotors that have a wavey profile and found they often pulse which I think contributed to bushing damage on my old Z2 fork. I'm now using a cheaper Cleanskin branded 1.8mm x 220mm disk with a constant diameter and cross sectional area which is giving me excellent braking with no pulsing or fork judder and pad rubbing is no issue.
@@LoveMTB I use the Galfer wave 1.8mm's for my SLX 4 pistons. I just don't see how a 2mm rotor would work, especially with new pads. The 1.8mm's, I had to align the caliper perfectly to not rub with new pads.
@@Beiberhole69RVA if the rotor fits when pads/ pistons are pushed in all the way then the thinkness doesn’t matter, pistons will just come out less! Rotor clearance once you release the lever is called rollback and that will remain the same. Having straight vs wobbly rotors can actually help with the brake rub😉
very curious about your review on these, as much as I heard great stuff about these also heard people having more heat issues as well as lower power versus their previous ones
I just run SLX 4 pod with EBC GOLD PADS from Ottalaus and SLX SM-RT66 rotors , the 66 are cheap 😇 , I think 2mm would be hard to centre perfectly without hearing rub .
My DH bike came with centerline rotors (1.8mm) and Code R brakes. They felt so bad I thought I was gonna have to replace the brakes immediately. Huge dead spot at the top and no way to adjust bite point. I switched to HS2 rotors (2.0mm) and it totally fixed the brake feel issue. It is a night and day difference with that setup.
You are a Pro and look at these details that many people overlook and just buy random rotors or other bike parts on Amazon or other online retailers. Or bikes shops with un-experienced staff. Personally I only use Shimano rotors with my Shimano brakes and Hope rotors with my Hope brakes. I have used Jagwire brake pads when there was no Shimano brake pads in stock but I would recommend sticking with the same brand for all the parts if possible.
So galfer discovered that can just pray on the ciclist, previously the most expensive disk they had was the DB014FLW for 40 euros and now they release a relatively simple design and double the price. Try this on the motorcycle line up and lets see how fast we tell the spanish to go sleep a siesta to cure the hangover.
I used Shimano rotors for years and I was thinking if I get some more expansiver rotors they will perform better. Well that’s simply is not the truth. I switched over to Galfer after I saw them in one of your videos and they perform amazing. Even the price is lower than for Shimano rotors. Last Sunday I made one pretty big circle ride (130Km) and rotors simply were awesome . Thank you for your video. ❤
@@sultanabran1 The difference I noticed is that Galfer rotors remain straight even after hard braking. Shimano XT ones started rubbing the pads after a weekend of riding. I use these 1.8mm thick and have not problems with rubbing or braking in wet conditions.
@@sultanabran1 I mean awesome in a good way. They don’t rub pads after every hard breaking. They don’t make “turkey sounds” while breaking. That’s it. I had it all on brand new XTR rotors and brand new shimano pads
Thank you for the video. I honestly can't tell much of a difference when it comes to rotors. I like 2.0 thickness, since they don't require trueing. Lately I have settled one Magura storm rotors on most of my bikes because they are the cheapest where I live.
It's weird to read people saying they're so much more expensive than Shimano, Magura, Hope or SRAM discs, in my country (Chile) they're all around the same price ($65). Must be because of some weird export/import tax.
I found the opposite. Centerline X and RT-86 feel very similar. Magura Storm original and SL2, I could never get any bite. Alcohol and torching the rotors didn't help, it's like they never bed. Ai2 bedded almost immediately with similar power to Centerline, though more pulsing through the levers.
I'm telling people, those Cura brakes are so underrated... They are reliable and powerful and I love my Cura 4 brakes. I have Shimano and SRAM best brakes, but that's just not it.
I use the wave rotors on all my bikes but in the 2mm (E-Bike) version and I have to say I'm very happy with them... I had been thinking about the shark rotors but as they are almost double the money I decided to stick with the wave rotors... ;-) Ps.: Do any of you guys n girls have tried the different pads? If only used the standard pads is there a noticeable difference to the pro pads?
Unfortunately they are everything else than quiet with my Code RSC and purple pads from Galfer. But it might be the Brake itself... On high speeds they are OK!
TRP offer the most cost effective 2.3mm rotors, way cheaper than Galpher. The reduction in warping when hot means no clipping pad noises and a consistently true rotor. Yes they work with all current calipers I know of.
For me this is a no brainer. Galfer wave ebike with 2mm width all the day over the shark. Sharks are to expensive and not worth the extra money. Glad to hear that you are happy with your cura 2. Mine are running flawless and are strong enough for enduro riding. Only complain I have/had ist the wear of the bushing on the cura lever which results in some play. Unfortunately this bushing isn’t available as single part. You have to purchase a replacement lever.
What a COS! TEKTRO have always been using 2mm rotor thickness and cost 75% less. If you think these hyped up bits of stamped steel justify such a high price tag? I pity you!
@@45graham45 i do in fact drag my brakes very frequently doing long wheelies and manuals. I’ve quickly learned running thicker 200 mm rear rotors keeps warping to a minimum and I never glaze my pads anymore
80+ euros for a single MTB rotor is madness. I used Shimano and moved to Trickstuff rotors (2.05mm thick) . Already expensive, but not as expensive as this!
@@sfe8349 Indeed, lots of Chinese options available in 2mm from Aliexpress and the like now. I tried Ztto once in the past and was not impressed, but that was before they came up with thicker ones. Might be a good option now, but I am happy with Trickstuff for now - they have a rounded chamfer making them easier to install, a well underrated feature
Same... 3 years on formula monolithic rotor... the first 2 or 3 rides the rotor was loud, after that dead silence and that with shimano metal pads on 8120 brakes...And they are no longer 2.0mm thick but 2.3mm so I can't wait to see how they perform
I'm bummed with galfer I used to run the waves on all my bikes but I got a bike with TRPs and another bike with codes RSC with the stock corresponding discs and I've awakened to the fact that the galfers were terrible and very often out of alignment, plus their floating offerings are riveted and don't offer real float and they even rattle like cheap floating discs. I've wasted enough money with galfers BS lol *Also very importantly they have in their huge catalog a lot of low quality Chinese third party made rotors, they have them branded galfer and mark them up 100%>>>
Thicker and floating rotors are two features that are proven to work, it's not even a debate, but galfer isn't the company I'd go with for better bleeding edge tech, they are a repackaging company 😂
@@LaurentiusTriarius yeah. Also ppl will complain about bent rotors from factory. Unfortunately that bs happens with any company I’ve ever ordered from. Just got to get good at truing them
So you don't know if they are worth it or not and you still made a video about it. Filming the cardboard and reading everything down to the tiniest detail is another waste of time. This is a video about nothing.
“Cooling fins” …… say no more not buying those..!?! The pad positioning….another no no..!?! Eff this product. SRAM or Shimano….not these, “cooling fins” and Shark paraphernalia not necessary…..
I think Magura brakes can be tricky with 2 mm thickness brake discs. As new they can be a PITA to adjust the brake pads to discs clearance even with thinner brake discs.
@@jannep6772 disc thickness (within reasonable limits) has nothing to do with pad clearance. That’s called rollback and is specific to manufacturers. If rollback is small you would have issues with 1.8 or 2mm. It is just that 2mm might not warp as easily so that can help with rubbing noise.