Whoops, looks like we published this video while the HD version is still processing lol, we might be a little RU-vid Rusty, but none the less the video will clear up. We hope you enjoy this crash course update video as we kick off our built motor journey in the vRS3 and get our RU-vid back into gear. Enjoy - George & Stav
One of the greatest Audi VR6T channel ever. I'm building a fully built 2.7T but after following your channel. I am finishing the 2.7T I'm gonna enjoy it while building a VR6T for my C5 A6. All because of this channel.
Stav's right about the expansion tank, but you may still need a larger tank. In a sealed system, at least when operating properly, the volume of air is what dictates system pressure at temperature. The fluid will expand a certain amount, the amount of air in the system that is able to compress, determines the system pressure. More air volume, less system pressure. It's the difference between expansion tank and overflow tank systems. That said, there still needs to be a large enough air volume to not cause over pressurization. You can trick the science a little here though, if you're set on that size. If you open the cap while the system is hot (fluid expanded, but not under significant pressure obviously) and let some of that air escape then put the cap back on while the fluid is still hot, once it cools there will be a slight pressure depression in the system. When it reaches temp again, system pressure will be less, even though you're working with the same volume. The expansion of the fluid is the same, but there's less air to compress into the 'extra' space, resulting in a lower overall pressure. This does depend on the design of the cap, some will normalize a lower pressure to atmosphere.
Whoa, appreciate the insight, perhaps it’s time we switch to Water less coolant, while still more pricey than standard coolant, the benefits may appeal to us on this setup
@@MalakaMotorSports waterless definitely has a couple advantages, but all liquids expand/contract to some degree directly with temperature, disregarding the weird way water acts as it freezes. I'd fill that tank half way with air and see what happens. If it still vents, hook a cheap pressure gauge up to the vent and see how far over that 20psi you are once it does.
Valve lapping is easy with new valves and seats that have been ground for 3 angles or what ever. You don’t need to vacuum test afterwards, you can physically see the grey lapped surface, just visually check that the lapped grey area continues 360 degrees with no gaps… it really is that easy. I would hand lap with the wooded shaft and sucker tool, although the round rocker tool that fits in the drill and has a sucker on the end work ok, just let it slowly rotate in your hand as you go. Just make sure you clean off all the grinding paste.
Absolutely it’s something I’ve done before wirh diesel heads. But still rather have a machine shop do it and double check their work. Couldn’t tell you how many times I’ve seen bad head work. But if we were in a pinch and needed to get it done absolutely
Anyone else love how Stav is always wearing sunglasses in all these videos! Glad to see that you guys are still at it!! Can't wait to see this beast at it's full potential!
I’m now suing Justin Timberlake for the song “sexy back “ In 2021 I’m bringing sexy back lol But thank you so much for the kind comments I have a lot of work to do. But feel way better appreciate it -stav
🔥🔥💯 can't wait to see this thing rippin on the built block. Bro Stav, hopefully you get those parts soon that 12v is gonna be 👌🏾🔥💯. Thanks for keeping the dream alive guys.🤙🏽
Thank you for the support Unfortunately I’m just going to have to wait for the parts . But once I get them I will show everyone every step of the way. Very excited and thank you for the support -stav
@@MalakaMotorSports my 21 Porsche 911 C4S (992) (Carrera 4S) finally came in. The RS3 however, I do miss already and is a car I would absolutely consider in the future.
Aye! I know these guys, haha. Glad to see you all are back and ready to build. I checked out of social media myself but I'm glad you all are still posting other places as well.
Lapping valves is super easy, and you can check the seal with a permanent marker around the sealing face of the valve and a lap tool...if youre not lapped in itll leave marker in the area thats not sealed. Not a huge process. Now cutting valves (5 angle job) requires a machine or a machine shop...just lapping is simple though
SUPER excited this is back. Favorite build out there. BUTTTTT hear me out, can you guys put that rs3 motor and trans in my 2017 GLI? I think she'll fit lmao
Not sure what rob dahm uses. Unfortunately in my free time I’ve been changing stuff up on the vrs3 and trying to learn syvecs but I’ll Have to check it out -stav
@@MalakaMotorSports it’s definitely a great video to watch when you have some free time (approx. 1.5hrs long, I think) on how to make a high-end mil spec loom. Especially since the vrs3 is a lifer like the S4s. Great to see you guys back, can’t wait to see the build and tune for this new engine.
Dude, you guys could make a vr > 2.7 shirt, I wouldn't be mad haha! Stoked you guys are back! It was awesome to chat at Socal Euro! As of this last weekend I sourced my oil leak, and got the passenger head in correct timing. Ran it last night trying to do break in cycles and it ran good till no cooling fans came on, electrical isn't much my thing.. gonna need Stav after he reroutes the ecu and the adds for fueling.. yknow, since we have till December 😂 🙌
@@MalakaMotorSports ya front end was off, I bled it off twice with no more bubbles near the throttle body, it ran for 15 mins or so before it spewed out the loose reservoir cap, but I'm at a loss for why the fans didn't kick on.. it didn't register as hot, but then again I should have had the vcds hooked up to monitor temp.. some believe I have an air pocket at the lower radiator temp sensor.. ive done 2 warm up and cool down cycles, I bet neighborhood cruising would burp it.. I also need to verify I spliced the correct oem fan wire per JHM's write up
@@bmorlok84 interesting I was just talking to someone about this today having a similar issue on their B5. Ended up being the lower temp sensor on the radiator hose.have you tried turning on the A/c . On that car the large jhm fan should automatically turn on with the a/c no matter the temp. But yes Definately check your wires. Also make sure to bleed system while running the heat to fully cycle. Just a few tips I’ve come across some pesky air pockets blessing my vr6 sometimes. Sometimes driving it around then parking it and opening cap after a few minutes did the trick.
@@MalakaMotorSports ya someone else mentioned turning the ac on too. I'll have to give that a go. I prefer the drive it around method too to burp it, but ik hesitant as its a full rebuild, so I want to get those break in cycles good too
In a previous video, you had said one of the main reasons to go to the vr6 was that the engines are cheap and easy to source. Isn’t the billet block the opposite of those? Will take a couple months and cost a ton?
It’s an extreme route, but ironically the Billet VR6 motor capable of over 1700hp costs the same as a new 5cyl RS3 engine from Audi (15-25k) and those are popping/breaking at 1000-1400hp range So which would you rather have ?
Great vid guys 🙌🏻 Question... You talked about how the 5-cyl had DI and there were a bunch of wires you didn't use because the VR6 doesn't have DI, are you guys somehow adding DI with the new built motor, or... will the builit VR have it added in the future? TY 🍺
Hey Kevin the newer cars all have direct injection 2.0t, 2.5t and even the 3.6 vr6 has direct injection. This is what helps them run higher compression due to it being direct port. We are not going to be running direct port. The only direct port we will consider is “NITROUS”
Maybe you’ll tell us towards the end of the video but you never mentioned what transmissions you’re considering going with if/when you choose to no longer use the DQ. Sequential? If not, what else are you thinking? I’m really excited to see the progress fellas. Cheers from from a fellow SoCal VR6 nut🍺
Let’s cross that bridge when we get there, first we’ll try our best to break the RS3 DQ500 transmission and some hearts along the way. Btw, thank you for the support and kind words ❤️ -George & Stav
Good afternoon hey man I got a question I don't know that much about VW I'm getting into it now . I bought an r 32 engine from A Touareg 04 And I want to put the engine in a mk4 2.8 24v Can I use the oem transmission and the harness for the r 32 ?
I’m not sure exactly what needs to be done. Transmission should bolt up no problem. But the harness may be slightly different. Also timing and intake manifold mounting I believe is different. -stav
@@MalakaMotorSports so you’re telling me no one has thought of a oil sump solution to make a girdle that attaches to both sides of the 3+4 main caps? Sounds like theres an untapped market there…
@@justindelvalle9179 there are other options but they space out the pump a bit further which is something we don’t want to mess with. Rather leave the oil pump system as is. Lot of big power and 7 second VR6 powered cars in Europe are using the same steel girdle we have opted to use, so we are confident this will help and work for us.
It’s not so much lapping a valve that’s difficult I’ve done this before. Also having the ability to vacuum or pressure test after finished to ensure your head isn’t leaking. Unfortunately there’s only so much 2 Malakas in a small garage can do.
Secret to lapping valves is three things. One: Only rotate the valve 90-120 degrees from center without going in a circle. Two: Only put a dab of lapping compound in one spot. Three: Lift the valve and resume when you hear the grinding feel go way down. The lifting of the valve will draw the compound back into the center of the seat. If the valves are concentric with the seat, the compound will work it's way around 360 degrees from the dab. If you don't rotate beyond 120 from starting point CW or CCW then you will know if the seat is not concentric. There will be a spot that doesn't get lapped. If it's just a small amount, continue until the valve is lapped 360 degrees. If it's extreme, the seats are cut improperly. KEY POINTS, YOU CANNOT HURT THE VALVE OR SEAT BY LAPPING THEM. IF YOU CAN CLEARLY SEE AN EQUAL THICKNESS LAP LINE ON THE SEAT, NO VACUUM TEST IS NECESSARY, IT WILL SEAL PERFECT 110%
Absolutely. I’ve actually done many dirt bike and Cummins engine cylinder heads. If we needed to lap valves fast for an event we could do it. But prefer being able to double check my work. And the first machine shop who did my motor in California did not lap valves correctly and all valves leaked. So even experts make mistakes. But we do double check everything
Good to see you back in business Malakas. I've been waiting for this build with extreme anticipation. I'm still considering a VR in the back of a 60s GM sports car. Corvair Monza mid engine de-stroked VR36/R36 with a DQ? or different trans. De-wookied with carbon unequal bellmouths inside a plenum and unequal length header tubes to have everything equidistant from the valves. Keeping the back seat and shoehorning it in between the rear axle and rear seat back (probably seat back/firewall moved forward 2-4 inches. Everything should fit.
Well that sounds like a very fun project similar to that Renault with a vr6. Very cool if you do start this project be sure to tag us on Instagram @malakamotorsports. Would love to follow your build