Wow, you seem to have quite few enemies here. I personally found your video very helpful and to the point. I wasn't looking on how to adjust the tension, deal with metal doors, etc, etc which others were complaining about, all I wanted was to see how to weatherstrip. Thanks!
Great video Mr. Mars. I recently purchased a wonderful older home here in Anchorage, AK. I have been looking around on how to weatherize the garage better. The winters get so gold here. This was an excellent HOW TO. Thank you so much for taking the time setting up this instructional video for us new home owners.
Instead of cutting and caulking the weather stripping against the top panel, try adjusting the top panel to make it tight against the stops. Loosen the nut and bolt on the roller hardware inside the door on the top of the top panel, push the panel tight against the stops, re-tighten the nut and bolt. That should straighten the door out. THEN apply the weatherstripping.
This is one way to help insulate garage doors, and it is helpful! There are other ways and methods that are helpful as well. Critical commenters should keep this in mind. By the way, great speaking voice, clear and intelligible - TV quality, I would say!
I wish you had shown how to cut the bottom seal out where it meets the vertical seal in the corner. Do you just cut the bottom seal flush at the vertical seal?
Can you please explain more? I recently had my spring and cables replaced. And now I have a gap on both side of the door where sunlight can be seen. It wasn’t like that before. I’m guessing the tech did something. I’m not sure if it’s worth calling them back or try to adjust it myself. The seal from the outside still looks ok.
Actually this can be a complex question. Do you ever use your garage? Is it totally sealed? If the floor area is naturally colder (which it usually is if its concrete) then yes there will be a constant temperature differential between ceiling and floor. If you use the garage and/or there is movement of air from fans or semi leaky doors then that warm upper air will disappear really fast.
Thank you. I just finished weather stripping the top and sides or my garage doors. I couldn't find the top and side weather strip at Home Depot and Ace, but Loses had it. Suggestion, to nail them, use white painted Panel Nails. They work perfect. I started the nails first in the weather stripping so it was easier to get them nailed in and not keep falling on me working over my head.
I was noticing that. It looked to me like the door wasn't coming down far enough or may have been slightly too tall for that opening/track. Also I think that because the surface against the seal should have been flat for that door panel design? Usually the top 3 to 4 inches is flat with that style. But then what do I know? lol
I'm so excited to do this today!! I swear that's my house...except I can see light from inside because my doors are so leaky. Thanks for the great video and explanation. I like your comment on using caulk instead of liquid nails. BTW, I'm a 52 year old female who luuuvvvs ripping up and redoing, and your mustache suits you
My thoughts. Make sure your garage doors are adjusted properly first. Use caulking not glue. Always pre-drill your holes, Or your wood will split during installation, or later due to expansion and contraction.
Not needed - these pieces are not wood, but a PVC synthetic material. They don't split. I just installed 6 pieces on 2 garages. My problem is I am having a conflict at the corner and don't know which edge to cut.
Doesn't heat rise and cold air fall and stay low? If so, wouldn't the cold air that does get through the gaps around a garage door just stay low within the garage and wouldn't rise to the upper level of the house?
If you're referring to a barn-style door that swings out (or in) like a regular door, then you probably have a metal strip with or without brushes or similar along the top and sides (where the hinges on the garage door meet the house/garage frame/sill), while the bottom strip differs between mfrs, with some opting for no strip at all (i.e., it may be built-in or there may be a draft stop attached to the inside of the garage floor, etc). In some cases, stripping similar to this vid would be on the inside of the garage, as well, per the next paragraph. If you're referring to a garage door that swings up and out, rather than up and in, then the side and top strips (if they're needed at all) would be on the inside of the garage, rather than the outside, but would install, similarly as the video shows. To better visualize this, hold your hands in front of you, with both palms face down and your thumbnails face/touch each other. Separate your hands a bit, and pretend that the space between them is the garage door looking from the side, and that your right hand is facing the outside of the garage (i.e., toward the driveway/street). Your right thumb would be where the vinyl/rubber side of the strip would be for an up/in garage door (i.e., outside the garage door), while your left thumb would be where the vinyl/rubber side of the strip would be for an up/out garage door (i.e., inside the garage door).
Wow is right. I am with you, Brandon Wieber and Jack Siscavage. Piss-poor workmanship. Fix the base problem and adjust the gap of your door first before the weather stripping. Surprised he didn't just duct tape it with this mentality.
Sadly I must agree. For there is NO way this would work on Clopay* metal garage doors. For they have a very special way of mounting their bottom seal. NO way should a nail or screw be used in installing this seal. Plus, the seal is unique. * Very large manufacturer of high quality garage doors.
Let's start with the biggest lose of heating/cooling in this project, an ancient wood door with single pane windows. Less than R-1. How about a door with 2" thick foamed in insulation which would put it at about R-15. Then seal it. Wasting your time otherwise
my garage door has massive gaps -_- it's cold in here..... but the CPU seems to like it. lol. 9900k at 28 degrees idle, 41 load. (SRELS stepping >.> the only good version).
Most USA folks don't have robertson/torque wrenches. I do, but, rarely need them, with most applications being for automobiles. But, even if most had such, flat and philips head screws are far more common, here, and, thus, easier to obtain and replace. To each his/her own. Here's an interesting article on the poor slob who created the Robertson screw: www.mysteriesofcanada.com/ontario/robertson-screw/
I believe you are referring to TORX screws. Torque is the amount of force applied. IF you are going to give advice you should proof read what you said. Yes, I know this is two years old. Yet I didn't see it two years ago.
Lol, First lets not address the real problem with the door lets just cut the new seal, fill it with caulk and make it look like an idiot did the job but wait first let me use the wrong bit in my drill so I can strip the heads out! Lol, Who is this guy. .... Stay away from my house!!
Exactly what I was thinking....he is never coming near my house! A notch in the side panel? And caulk it? If he'd cut it to fit probably it would not need a notch. OMG is all I could say! I did this, so easy, but he rigs it BADLY.
How you do yours? Show us the video? Exactly why you are here.. you dam sure right followed this video or paid someone to do it for you that saw it on this video lol
I work in and out of US. It's amazing how many men still wear mustaches. The last man in UK to wear a mustache was Kevin Webster on Coronation Street. I think he removed it in 1993. And they still listen to rock music. And wear baseball caps. I like Americans, but I really do think they should advance a decade or three.
Liquid nails to adhere his door seal???? No!!! No caulking needed either, fit it properly. It pains me to see bad carpentry when it actually is such an easy job. Hope no one follows this.
