Gas Can VENT CAP *Problems/FIX* 

POOF!!!!!! Seriously. Equipment I quote has to be Class 1 Div 2 Grp D at least for methane at power plants. Are your garage outlets and lights intrinsically safe? Do NOT let them vent into an enclosed space. Vents on my machines MUST go to a defined safe area, or to flare.

Oh wow, i didn't know about that! Are your cans stored outside? Was it a certain brand you had that happen?

It’s happened with blitz as well as several other plastic gas cans the majority of them have a seam along the top It’s not just a fault with The blitz cans We can have temperature swings or 50 or 60° up here in northern New York and that’s all it takes much less if you leave it sitting in the truck in the sun when you walk up to the cannon it’s all swollen that’s the start of your problem

@@sprint48219 Good information! People do read the comments, so thank you for your feedback 🙂👍

Off roading, the cans sit in the bed of my truck, in the sun, heat up and swell. If I vent them, then the fuel comes out of the vent while the truck jostles around. Damned if I do, damned if I don't. I'm sure this is a common scenario, what are other folks doing to remedy this situation?

Yeah, my plastic seam split on a few gas cans. That's the weakest area. Probably designed that way. Not sure if there is a "fix" for that. The safest way to handle the pressure would be a secondary aneroid bellows device. It would allow expansion and contraction without pressurizing or collapsing the body of the container. Liquid gasoline expands about 20% over a certain rise in temperature. The vapors and atmosphere in a half full can can expand and contract wildly over the same temperature ranges. Though it a compressible medium, the structure of the "can " must endure the stress. A metal can with folded seams is super strong, but will "work" harden after a bunch of cycles and crack. I use old lacquer thinner metal containers and exchange them after a year or two. I remember in the boy scouts, I had a Sigg gasoline container. I pint of fuel for mu stove. It never leaked. Last thing: gasoline degrades over time. You replace the gas in your car every week or few weeks. Old fuel (30 days in summer is old), doesn't work right. Most of the lighter aromatics get cooked off. You lose octane and other designed factors. Old rank gasoline won't let yir 2stroke sing. And it will take a lot of pulls to get it to run. To the point that you'll be tearing stuff apart to figure it out. ...all do to. 30 or 40 day "old" fuel! That'll reconfigure yir thoughts on this topic!

@@Mr05Chuck still using them, working well

I think as long as the sealant and or the o-rings are petroleum resistant, either should be fine. The O ring should be more flexible (than sealant that hardens) but if the O rings are not viton or nitrile, they may break down quickly. I'm not sure what kind of o-ring comes with the kit

@@anesthesiadreamin Thanks, presumably they are putting the resistant type on these vents! At least I haven't noticed many reports of them failing in the reviews.

Yes, but I'm worried that those will get brittle and crack pretty quickly in our very cold weather.

A metal cable will be much better. I've been wondering about switching to metal cans. Do you think they're real advantageous?

@@anesthesiadreamin I had some nice plastic ones, but the exposure has separated the layers of plastic. And I had about 6 metal ones from years ago. I do mod the top to attach a ball valve to control the flow and make a wood plug for the hose to keep debree out of the hose.

@@ke6bnl I like the ideas! Thanks for watching and for your comments 🙂

IDK for sure, but I can't see why not 👍

Sorry, it's been too long and I don't remember. Size should come in the directions (assuming you are buying a new one🙂

31/32nd

I just installed 3 of these, 1/2 in bit