I made this video to get some ideas about a troubleshoot of a NG dryer that was not heating correctly. I welcome discussion. Thanks for watching. This is a re-upload due to an editing error on my part.
Great video. I watched others that said number 1 most likely cause was the thermal fuse and number 2 most likely was the coils. I bought both on Amazon before I dismantled my machine thinking I'd likely have it covered in one repair effort. Of course, I tested with ohm meter in cold condition and everything tested good. So, I returned the parts, and machined miraculously worked again thinking I was a genius. Tried the dryer later and it wouldn't heat again, so was left scratching my head and contemplating calling for repair professional. Other vids I watched didn't talk about the coils testing good cold, but failing with heat added, so I kinda wasted some effort and exercised my Amazon account. I've reordered the coils and will try again.
@@yourbeekeeper Installed new set of coils and dryer working again. You hit this one on the head. So happy to figure this out without a repairman and renewed my man card. Wife thinks I am a genius, but you and I know, it was you. Thanks.
Thank you! Used this in March of 2024 to fix my Kenmore Series 80 Gas Dryer. Great explanationm to the point and great camera angles to see exactly what is going on and how to re-assemble the panels. Thanks again Beekeeper!
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! . OMG, you saved me hundreds of dollars I didn't have to buy a new dryer. It's 32 years old but I love it! Took me twenty videos and a few in needed parts to finally find your video! I replaced the coils and viola fixed! Did I say thank you? THANK YOU !
want to thank for this video. I took the coils up to a parts store and they tested fine, I watched your video and put them on and the dyer is working fine, Thank you very much.
Thanks for making this video! It helped me focus on the coils after I ruled out the safety thermostats. If it helps anyone else, my dryer's symptoms included being able to fire 2 to 3 times, then no longer re-ignite. The starter would glow, then the coils would 'buzz'. Replaced both at once with $35 coil kit and it works fine.
Throw another thanks on the pile. $750 and a bunch of time saved for a $10 part. Could not have been easier, and that's after clearing the exhaust and replacing the old vent hose, I was heading down the same path. Thanks a whole bunch!
THANK YOU!!! - Same issue - same process I went though - Your upfront discussion was extremely helpful - couldn't figure it out - everything checked out - tested the coils when it was cold and they were fine - never thought to test them immediately after the failure - replaced them today in 5 minutes - dryer works again. Can't thank you enough!!!!
By far the best fix-it video I have seen. This "sometimes go - sometimes no" failure is definitely the toughest to track down and I would tend to keep throwing parts at it until it worked but you thought the problem through. You are the man! Many Thanks
Thank you! So helpful! Our KitchenAid dryer was doing what your dryer was doing so I replaced the solenoids that I ordered on Amazon. It’s working again now! My teenage girls thank you also! You are their hero!
I first followed another video and replaced the cycling thermostat, but that did not fix my dryer's heating problem. Then I followed your video and fixed the issue. Thank you so much!!!
"...safety is third..." Best line in a DIY video! I laughed out loud. We are simpatico. Video is useful, clear and well-produced. Great job. My guess is we'd agree that cost and difficulty are the 1st and 2nd concerns.
Hey Beekeeper- THANKS BRO!!! Had this problem, bought the parts you changed and bingo fixed. Didn't bother changing the other parts, although I did buy them. Happy wife now.
Too many possibilities for me. I've already replaced the timer myself and had the vent cleaned (but it wan't clogged). Gonna see what an actual repair person will charge. Thanks for your insight though, it did help me make my decision to hire someone to finally get this thing fixed!
Thanks for sharing this sir. I’m currently having a dryer problem, I’m going to try and see if that’s my problem, in the meantime thank you very much. Newer subscriber 👍
$10 for new solenoids and dryer is good to go. My door sensor connector did not want to separate so I left it connected and swung the front panel to the side with no issue.
Going to attempt this RIGHT now. Got my piece today. With the help of the video and of God I’m hoping to do this. (My husband is usually busy so I attempt small fixes on my own first.) Just wanted to mention, I replaced the thermal fuse last year and it didn’t completely stop the machine from working. It operated fine. Just wouldn’t heat anymore. Okay, it’s 9:35 pm....fine time to start a diy fix. I’ll report back.
10:17 and I’m still working. I’m to the point of removing the screws for the actual part replacement and dun dun duuuuun....there are torx screws. But not just any torx, security torx. The worst part of my repair attempts is never having all the tools I need and searching through all my husband’s cabinets, tool boxes, tools chests. I don’t know if we have a torx security driver but a different video suggest trying a teeny tiny flat head and says it fits right in. Off for more searching.
10:43....defeat. So close yet so far. Just can’t get those security torx things off without the proper driver. Which I can’t get tonight. Thanks for great instructions though otherwise!
Here's a tip... those security torx are easy to get around. Grab a center punch or small screwdriver and a hammer. Put the punch or screwdriver on the pin at an angle and gently tap with a hammer...the pin when struck sideways will easily break and you can now use a traditional torx.
The important lesson here is - don't bother checking the coils with an ohmmeter, just replace them. They're under $10 online, and just because they test OK cold, they're still likely the problem.
I was slowly loosing my mind over this intermittent failure.. i’ll try these coils next to see if it fixes my dryer (kenmore S70). Great presentation, btw. Also, you may post the link to your replacement parts so people can get to them easier following your video.
Thanks for the comment, Originally I linked the seller's ebay listing, but they are no longer active. Just enter the part number into your search field and you will find it still available. check out 6:18 in the video for a close-up of the part number and description. Thanks for watching.
I tested my whirlpool gas cabrio when cold, it all tested via multimeter to manual specs on all parts. So I replaced the coils, igniter and flame sensor. I also replaced the outside thru wall exhaust vent which didn’t appear to open all the way. Took the thing apart and it was amazing that it was blocked on the inside with lint. No way to clean a cabrio without complete disassembly...what a crappy design! Still getting a check airflow light on automatic cycles only but not on manual cycles. Will continue to work on diagnosis of this issue...but with the full cleaning and other cheap parts swap it is at least drying better now.
Very helpful, thank you. I am having the same problem with my Kenmore. Started only when using the auto cycle, but today it's decided to not heat at all. When it heats, there is a loud click or clunk when first starting the cycle. When it doesn't heat, there is no loud click. I am assuming that this is due to the solenoid not activating. Just ordered some replacements, so hopefully tomorrow we'll have a working dryer again.
I have a 2009 Whirlpool Gas Dryer model wgd6200sw2 that starts up, heats up, then turns off, and does not heat back up. I replace the dryer thermal fuse and the high Limit Thermostat. I check the motherboard and saw no burned points. Cleaned out the lent from the hose and inside the dryer. I am at that point where I need a professional to take a look.
That's very interesting! Here in the Netherlands most clothing dryers are electrically heated even though most (almost all) homes are connected to the nation wide natural gas supply grid.
Out here the price structure makes it cheaper to run a NG dryer than an electric. I also have a NG water heater and furnace...way cheaper than electric.
Ok :-) I'm guessing the required extra NG plumbing never made it interesting to hookup an NG dryer here in the Netherlands. Most homes do use NG central heating for "heating" and hot water. Although, at the kitchen most have a small electric "close-in" boiler so that piping hot water is always on tap to do the dishes. Local solution eh :-)
Put new coils in, still shuts off after a few minutes, I'm bummed. I've tested every damn thing this dryer has continuity wise. I will say that the flame sensor tests weirdly. Goes to some numbers and OL back and forth. Maybe I'll just replace that for the hell of it.
Good evening YourBK, great video! So I’ve checked the resistance on everything I possibly could - low and high limit thermo, thermal fuse, heat sensor and solenoids. Everything was reading properly so I decided to replace the heat sensor as a ditch effort. I would love to just buy these parts and replace them in hopes but the sensor cost me 80$ from repair clinic. What I heard you say during this video was to check the solenoids “during failure”. How did you do that? Please explain. Thanks so much.
Hi, it's a bit tricky because you need to partially disassemble the machine to a point but still be able to run a cycle safely. You hook up your meter (set to voltage) to the solenoids and start a heated cycle. Verify it's getting voltage when it's being sent by the controller. If it's getting the rated voltage (solenoids are stamped with the voltage) you then wait for things to heat up and witness the failure (flame shuts down prematurely). You then turn the machine off, switch your meter from voltage to Ohm, unplug the solenoids/gas valve from the harness and individually test each solenoid and get the reading. If they don't show the same reading or one comes across as an open circuit you have found the issue. This Ohm reading must be done immediately after you witness the failure while things are at the temperature they are failing.
Have you confirmed your NG line is providing NG and actually have NG getting to the dryer from your supply line? Have you confirmed with a volt meter that there is electricity being sent to the solenoid when the machine should be signaling for flame? The voltage required to activate the solenoid can be found on the coil or the gas valve ID tag. If you have replaced all those parts, confirmed your NG gas line is good and at the proper pressure at the appliance and can confirm you are getting power to the coils to activate the solenoid, then the gas valve itself is likely bad.
If you are only replacing the solenoids, you don't actually touch the NG system. With that being said, I would always recommend turning off the gas valve to the dryer and pulling the plug before any servicing.
Great video. I’m having trouble with disconnecting the Molex connector so that I can take the front off. Tried pushing a screwdriver in, but not having any luck. Suggestions? Not sure where to push on the plug with the screwdriver.
HI Roxane. These plugs can be tricky, but are not difficult once you see how it assembles. Searching images of molex plugs might make it easier to understand. . There is only one lock, on one side of the plug. The hub is on the inner plug and the catch is on the outer plug. For this style plug, you can also slip a small screwdriver between the hub and catch and gently pull the plugs apart.
Would this fix my dryer? Changed thermal fuse and resistor and still same problem. Lights up goes on for 5-10 minutes then shuts off. Also checked the vent outside. Was hot air coming out then 5 minutes later cool air. I ordered the solenoids on amazon will be here Saturday. Anyone know if this will fix the problem. Have a angry wife right now and wants to call a repair man who charges $85 just to look at it
There is also a thermistor and a thermostat that could be failing. They are the button sensors that are mounted to the heat chamber as well as vent metal. They typically have two wires running to them. Best of luck with your repair.
@@yourbeekeeper Thanks for that. With mine, sometimes the heat works during startup and other times it doesn't heat up at all. Could it be the coils? I ordered some and waiting for them to show up. What else should I check? Thanks for your help!
@@yourbeekeeper I replaced the dryer coils with new ones from Ebay. Still getting intermittent heat. Cold right off the start. It seems the only way to get to get it working is to shut off and start it multiple times. A tech thought it might be the cycling thermostat. That doesn't make sense because I think it's not shutting off when it's hot. It's either hot right away or cold through the whole cycle. I was thinking either flame sensor or the heating element that lights the gas. Could I get your thoughts?
@@squirrelattackspidy I hope you have this figured out... but if not... in my experience the ignitor fails when the brittle heat element cracks. it's not typically a intermittent failure. A failing flame sensor or dirty sensor window could cause intermittent signals. They don't always fail completely at once. Flame sensors and ignitors are both inexpensive parts and easily replaced...if you replaced the coils, you have the skills to replace these two parts. Best of luck with your issue.
@@yourbeekeeper Thanks so much for the response! Turned out it was the timer on the unit. I took the unit apart and cleaned and bent the copper elements so that they were making good contact. Used a nail file to clean them. Then I checked conductivity with a multimeter to make sure there was a connection. Then put it back again. Twenty year old dryer is running like a champ again. :)
They knock out the sock faeries so you keep your socks.... (actually they are supposed to bounce around and provide air spaces so the heat can circulate better and they act as softeners as well)
Legend has it that Dryer balls are used to help dry clothes more quickly than usual as well as to soften fabrics in the dryer. When you load a big armful of wet towels into the dryer they will flop and tumble around. Normally fabric will stick together in the dryer, slowing down the drying process.
