GAS FURNACE MOTOR DRAWING HIGH AMPS TROUBLE SHOOTING TO FIND ISSUE merch = teespring.com/... / stevenlavimoniere lavimoniere productions llc subscribe to my channel / @stevenlavimoniere lavimoniereplum...
Steve you should ohm out the windings and ground on the motor. That would tell you straight away if the motor is bad. And if it's bad when you get a new motor you should ohm out the windings to be sure that the new motor is okay. And be sure to put the amp meter on it make sure the proper amperage
That looked complicated Steve, great job determining what wire to which, that's why I learn SO much from your video's! Enjoy the long weekend and don't forget the video's! 🎉😎💥💯☝️👍🫵
Steve make sure you check the capacitor for good health. If a run capacitor fails, the motor can display a variety of problems including not starting, overheating, and vibrating
Looks like you are energizing two speeds at once, which will burn out the motor. The fan really is spdt, and should send power to either the bonnet fan control or directly the blower high terminal for ac. That way you can turn on fan from the thermostat when heat is on without destroying the motor. Of course what you did will work, since you are just using one speed.
Steve has a parts store on wheels. I never carried as many capacitors as he does and he carries some of the most obscure toilet parts that I have never heard of before.
That had the potential to cause a house fire!! An RCD or (GFI in north America) would have prevented a lot of those issues including allowing you to jumper the neutral to ground. I'm an electrical tech in a UK hospital and bypassing safety switches is a serious no no, they are there for good reason and should never be removed, bypassed or cheated. Death, fire or injury caused by those actions can be traced back and litigation taken against the person who modified the machine from it's design criteria, absolving the manufacturer of all blame. Be careful what you are doing.
Energizing multiple speed taps will burn out a motor quick fast in a hurry. The fan cycle switch with limit is only supposed to energize the motor through the normally closed contact on the relay which will disconnect when cooling is calling, therefore it would be impossible to energize multiple speed taps at the same time unless it was miswired. NO! Don’t use ground as a neutral! Don’t trust fieldpiece. Do not bypass safeties, do not bypass door switch, that’s shake hands with danger. Usually you don’t want heating fan speed & cooling fan speed to be the same speed. Too low fan speed in cooling may freeze the evaporator, too high may not dehumidify enough causing mold & mildew. Too low fan speed in heating will overheat, too high in heating will cause condensation in the primary heat exchanger & quickly rust the heat exchanger making carbon monoxide potentially harming occupants.
Steve, That was a great troubleshooting skills. 35 amps! Almost as if the motor was getting 240VAC instead of 120? That time/ temp limit switch is fried allowing power to the low speed and high speed windings... Great job
A day in the life and the f'd up stuff you run into out there. It sucks frying a motor because of a bad fan control that probably fried the motor before it. Straight cool t-stat with heat and omit fan control. If enough wires and a 24volt gas valve, heat anticipator in it. Good YOB.
Good idea to check current draw after motor replacement. I've seen at least couple of HVAC channel guys doing it regularly, just for assessing system health. They double check all the voltages and amps on all phases, compressors, fans, measure voltage differences on relays etc.
Hard to tell because of your tape and camera didn't show clearly but I suspect you have wired up black from the motor to the 120v hot. This black wire from the motor is high speed. You then wired up the red wire from the motor to 120v from relay. This red wire is a lower speed. Attempting to run both high and low speed at same time is not good. The motor is off on internal overload. if you ever feel a motor and it's hot, cool it off before condemning . What we do know for sure is it is not the power switch as you have 120v to furnace. You always have to have panel on when checking amp draws otherwise the lack of static causes motor to draw over amps. Try just wiring up only white and black wire from motor of course the cap needs to be wired to. Then put on door and check amps.
It's possible. I seem to remember at least another video where someone had a furnace that was repeatedly acting up and a very similar looking cycle switch was the issue.
Why replace the relay, bypass the door switch & try to fix a working connector without checking basic wiring? Perhaps I didn't get the point of the video.
Does the primary problem start with there being 2 thermostats . Too much monkey motion and gizmos to make it all work ??????? Why would you even have 2 thermostats any way ?????
Steve why don’t you have some kind of rig where it’s a plug with the other end spliced and you just hook up to the motor with the 120 direct to see if it spins? Then you don’t have to remove it to test.
So I say this with the utmost sarcasm, I thought you were a licensed plumber not a licensed electrician 😅 So your telling me, one teacher could walk by and turn on AC unit, another teacher could get cold and walk by and turn on heat? Unbelievable 😅
