This guy is like the total bro. I'm in the process of assembling my first motorized bicycle and it seems like anytime it comes from blackberries this guy shoots me straight no questions asked and when I do have some questions I want to bring up by the time I watched the video all the way through anything I was going to ask was addressed and this guy is just a true bro and he understands what we're going through
Hey Toney glad to see someone finally set people straight on the whole Tank mount, I figured it out myself just last year. Also nice of you to show the correct way for people to mount the fuel filter, I can't tell you how many people I see their videos and they are on backwards, And can't get gas to flow, Makes me laugh. #Build it Right Tony's vip
It’s nice that the 40 to 1 is getting out there. Before many builders use this 16 to 1. I did a recent video on break in and 16 to 1 ,does more harm then good.
16 to 1 looks like it gums up everything with deposits and drips out the exhaust from what I've learned. I'm doing a bit extra oil to a premix 40 to 1 can then doing 40 to 1. People say the 32 to 1 and 16 to one makes less power too. The mixture is too lean
When i first got my engine I ran the 16:1 break in as recommended. THE BIKE WOULD NOT START. No matter how much i kicked it over going down a hill. I was getting very upset, think I bought a new magneto and stuff and spark plug was so confused at the time as a young lad! I then took engine apart and realised how much oil was in there it was disgusting! I pressure washed the whole engine and exhaust put 20:1 in after doing research and it started straight away. Deffo does more harm than good.
Really appreciate these kind of video updates that last video about fuel ratio from bikeberry was like 5-7 years ago and the motorized bike community has been growing and learning new things #BuildItRight
THANK YOU, for clearing that up. the manufacturers, sellers, other builders, all have different instructions, this makes things so much easier. #BUILDITRIGHT
I've been mounting my tank like that for years, I was always surprised I'd never seen anybody else do it that way. I've never had any issues with leaks doing it like that.
I tried and couldn't get it to work. The first set of nuts won't go up into the painted threads, no matter how much sanding I tried and I won't dare crank any harder or the bolts will rip out. I first tried with nylon then regular stainless and no go. This upgraded mount was a complete bust for me :/ Wish it had gone differently
i love your videos ive bought a few things from bike berry I dont so much agree with the fuel to oil ratio My reasoning is ive blown engines up with the cradle grave phylosophy i run my first few gallons 32.1 with a bit of stp oil treatment the first few gallons its slow and rough gotta plug chop it use a wire brush clean the plug after you run those few galllons do the same but with 40.1 and just a tad of the stp bro youre engine will last forever
This couldn’t be any more helpful. I just got my little engine a few days ago, I am very happy with it. Bought it used and has a few issues but from experience on dirt bikes I took it apart and fixed it. I was stressing about the best fuel ratio, thankfully you saved it. But the big question for ethanol? To clean the carb, would seafoam work aswell?
If you use your bike frequently you likely won't have to worry about the ethanol. If it's going to be sitting for awhile, turn off the fuel, start it and let it run out of fuel. Do this and you won't have a problem from ethanol. Seafoam "can" help clean a fuel system that's "not quite clean" but is really meant as a prentative measure. It won't protect from the ethanol issues if left sitting though.
Thanks mate from Australia 🇦🇺 i followed the instructions and it was bogging down and i was wondering if 18:1 was to rich and thought it was fouling up. You've cleared up the issues i was wondering about. Cheers mate 👍
I love this regarding the oil gas mix. Straightforward and simple. Regarding the 40:1 I had already heard of another guy who was just reusing one of those little 2.6 oz 2-Cycle oil bottles you can get at any store as his measuring cup. There's actually a 3oz fill line and a view window right on the bottle. One of those in a 1 gallon gas container and you're good to go
Great video!! 👍👍 I think part of the reason for the 16:1 ratio for the breakin isn't just for the piston/rings/cylinder. Keep in mind you'll have purchased a brand new engine that likely has NO lubricant in it at all. That heavier mixture initially will help get oil in and around all those little nooks and crannies where its needed just as much as in the top end.... crank bearings, connecting rod, etc. By the time some oil has worked its way to those hiding places (a tank or 2 of fuel), then you're good to go with less oil in the mix. Just my 2 cents on it. 👍👍😁 Pete 🇨🇦
Tip 6 copper head gasket: throw it on the stove top on high heat let it turn dull color this will anneal the metal making it soft so it will conform and seal better.
Tip 8 sand the area around gas tank bolts and fiberglass around them this will prevent the bolts from cracking and leaking when bumped also can tank seal the inside this will pretty much stop leaks before they happen
#Builditright --TONYSVIP Well I started my build last week, followed alot of your tips and ideas, I used my 87 Ritchie mountain bike, evreything works pretty good so far ,dialing in fuel mix and carb settings tomorrow. Thanks for the tips and ideas very helpfull
I am at year 5 of building and running motorized bikes. I like the idea of the double straps for the tank. I have been simply cutting off the studs. I found some clear plastic tubing which has a 1/4 thick wall, this I cut it in half and place it under the tank. The tank gets large cable ties over rubber tiedown straps, this shock proofs the tank from the engines vibrations. For the engine it's self. I match all the ports and gaskets. I raise the intake port by 1 mm and lower the exhaust port by the same 1mm. This adjusts the Timing a little. Now for the carb. I have been experimenting with the jets. Because I am running a Tuned pipe I run just a little bit richer than the #70 stock jet. Fuel mix. During the winter I run Regular and in the summer Prem. The difference is the temperature they burn at. Reg is a little hotter than the Prem. Oil, I have been using the Stehl Chainsaw oil, mixed at 25-1, this is double the normal amount of oil than for the Chainsaws. Finally, these two stroke engines really like the heat. So, before you go riding they really need to be warmed up completely. 10 minutes at a fast idle. The idle screw needs to be turned in for a fast self running idle, as the engine warms up idle will come up, turn the screw in a little, as the engine warms it will increase idle again, readjust. Usually the engine does this about 3 times. By simply listening to the engine it will tell you when it's warmed property.
This is good advice. I've been messing with these things for near a decade. 25:1 mix for sure. I've had good luck with Lucas semi synthetic oil. Letting it warm up and gradually ripping it harder and harder for short runs is how I do it. These nor any engine like to idle.
I keep my old editor flat inner tubes that I can't patch anymore and using for stuff like that there for the tank to wrap it around the bar to keep it from scratching the paint job on the bike and it also makes it feel sturdy and won't let it slip round either
I have a 29inc. Midway beach cruiser from schwinn , I threw a stock china kit to it. Now running a kx80 motor cycle back in the day you had to glaze the engine ,so I ran it rick for first half of tank. yes had to clean the plug after with gas and fine grit paper. Same with this bike 66cc. I still win it rich 35/1 an for some reason this motor loves the low end it gives it. I can do 45 mph but like 20 that way i get to see everything and have to peddle every now and then. I think glazing is a good practice
Ps my instruction manual that came with said set suggested 16/1 but i started at 25 for half a tank then went to the 32/1 on a full now just the 35/1 all the time.
This is a good way for people that are looking to get into riding scooters and motorcycles with the clutch they can learn how to use the clutch stopping it going
Man I wish I seen this she I jumped into the engine bike hobby I went threw two tanks so far and gave up and went to a plastic one from lawnmowers lol but this is a bad ass idea thanks bro and another idea is use a old bike tube cut it to size
Hi Tony, ( new subscriber ) I just got my new BBR stage 4 engine and built in tank frame and before I put it together I wanted to do a little research. Your vid’s have in my opinion have been the most helpful. Thank you from Bryon. # Builditright Tonyvip
I've taken off several intakes from bikes I've bought, needing repairs. Including my own, the intake gasket is compressed and made smaller. I've opened these up, after porting a shop towel in 1st and opened up the opening. Bottom end power and starting is much easier and better. Then down jetting it by 2 helps.
i love your videos like I said I think tho first time builders more oil is better until you figure it out feel it until you get more knowledge on it we are dealing with chinese qaulity engines and most people think you can get on it I was one of those people and blew up a few engines thank you tony i watch and like all your videos
LEGEND. I've been running 20:1 for a while now and it always feels like it's very gummy and oily. Might give the engine a good wash out and stick 40:1 in it now. I aint seen anyone who's ran 40:1 and had problems so imma assume it's good.
Actually, crankcase oil (motor oil) is really really bad for two strokes. Not only is it NOT designed to burn, it will CAKE your exhaust, cylinder, piston, etc, in carbon. Two stroke oil, however, is MADE to burn with the gas. It's way different from crankcase oil, in that it is 100% designed to burn. If you have a good two stroke mix, it shouldn't smoke, because it's two stroke oil. Crankcase oil will smoke really bad, because it's meant to lubricate for long periods of time whilst withstanding burning. If you're planning to travel far, bring a little 1 gallon two stroke mix jug. Echo powerblend works great, (since I have lawn equipment as well) because they sell little jugs that you pour the whole thing that mixes 50:1 for one gallon. And those bike tanks are about half gallon? So one little echo powerblend jug for one of those tanks will make a 25:1 - 30:1 mix or so, which isnt bad for a pinch or quick ride home from the gas pumps. I run 32:1 in my 66cc, since I'm going trail speed (not fast enough for efficient air cooling) so I need a little richer mix to keep the head cool. This might sound really redneck, but the way I calculate temps on any engine is to spit on the exhaust right out of the cylinder. If it burns and sizzles, it's past 212 F, and based on how fast it sears away also determines how hot it is. If you spit and nothing happens, you're good in any circumstance.
Yeah I haven't got one of those motorized bikes yet, I got an electric bike but I plan on trying to use a weed wacker motor right now and trying to build me a motorized bike out of that and, that's the two stroke also so we'll see how that works and I know you can use one cause I've seen the video on it, you've gotta use that two stroke Motor oil for that also so will see how well that works out for me. I'm disabled with neck and back injuries and pedaling for long periods, just eats away at my back, so I really need a good bike, and that's why I'm gonna try to build the weed Wacker bike.
When I mounted my very first gas tank I took the rubber from an old tire and used it as a " motor mount " I don't know how well it works as the clutch seized up
Just started my new engine today. Had crap power but if course im in the break-in period and i only went 1 mile. I used 40:1 of Lucas semi-synthetic smokeless. Is this stiff ok to use? It wasnt expensive only like $5.99
I’m new to motorized bikes and I’m going for my first switch out from a mountain cruiser to a beach cruiser. High-performance car change out and CDI plus magneto. I’m having a hard time getting chain adjustment correctly what’s the best settings for the chain holder wheel to be at?
The reason for the extea oil for the break in is that you want the rings to set into the cylinder wall BUT you dont want it to do it fast. Think of it as sanding, less oil = lower grit sandpaper which will wear in fast. More oil = higher grit so it will wear into the wall slower. You want it slow because it creates less tolerance between the ring and the wall because the break in was more gradual. Im not going crazy like 16 to 1 but im adding a bit more oil like a 32 to 1 just for the first tank. Ride easy and dont tax the engine too! When you put a new turbo in a car you take it easy on it so the bearings break in slowly so you dont get any tolerance gap and get play in the turbine. Im just applying the same principles to this little thing. Im also adding a bit of marvel mystery oil directly to the cylinder to prevent it from scratching anything when it first gets moving.
Oh yeah and of course smooth the edges of then port openings smooth leave no burs in them check the rings as well smooth all the sharp edges inside the cylinder and on piston and rings and clean well before reinstall
Yes I've never done one of these miter I still I just bought a swhinn Knowles mtb from Walmart to mount a mother onto it will this style work please let me know
I just finished my newest (#4) build with a BBR 66/80 engine and used the recommended 40-1 mix. The engine seized after a slow 6 minute 15 mph ride. I managed to break the seize and it still runs but I’m concerned that the mix might be light on oil. Should I remix?
To be honest I've been running VP 40:1-50:1 multi mix for a while with no problems in mine with same engine. Maybe its just a matter of time before something goes wrong but she still runs strong. I have lost some top end power though every since I removed the cylinder a while back. I feel like its due to the piston rings having lost their seating, if that's a thing.
Tip three after chain has stretched (get heavy duty chain ) tighten the chain as good as ya can buy master links and half links for bike AND engine chains try to get it snug without the tensioner a lot easier on a bike with a derailer I recommend using a mountain bike ya know
Then pull wheel to tighten it up right and adjust bike chain to fit if ya must use tensioner put it before the spokes and use the damn four bolt one and or a engine mounted tensioner
Half links can be a problem. The ones I received look like a perfect fit…but the post with the cotter pin is a tiny bit long and won’t clear the walls inside the drive sprocket housing with some of the aftermarket covers. If you grind down the post to fit better, you expose the cotter pin hole. Ask me how I know 🤣🤣🤣
And instead of the bolt welds popping, (knowing from experience) the tank cracks, at the middle seam when doing this. Best fix is the top mount, 4L tank, or liquid tank sealant. Anyone need help, find me on the pages.
@@danpen717 hell man no too much oil use a half gallon with 2.5 oz and then 32:1 for life that’s it as long as ya take it slow n easy let it warm up before use during break in it’ll be fine
@@danpen717 ya but my bike 16:1 bike berry told me to use 40:1 I have new engine I didn’t get manual from person I bought mountain bike from feel’s ppl get bunch different answers so who ones plus my bike not broken in yet
@@demonic2534 I used that and it bogged 3 blocks and a piston rin cracked in half. By the time I opened it to clean the head half a piston ring fell into the crankshaft. I put the piston with 1 1\2 rings so it fused. I'm buying a new one tomorrow after a month,🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴🥴 After a month and half thou I used Valvoline vr1 racing
Sorry Tony, I'm going to disagree with the ethanol vs. non - ethanol gas. True the bike will run on the pump gas with ethanol fine. The problem occurs when its left sitting, either in the tank or the extra in the gas can, it will attract water fast, plus it goes stale fast. Water, oil and gasoline do not mix well, nor does it burn well in the combustion chamber. It also causes severe corrosion in the carburetor. It also turns to a gummy paste in carburetor. I never ran it in my 2 strokes and I never run it in my 4 strokes. My bike can sit for 6 months + with the non ethanol and I can go start it first time every time, never a plugged up carburetor like the ethanol does. If you are going to replenish the gas in the tank every week or 2 max. then the pump gas is okay. Do not let it sit in a gas can for any extended length of time, especially in a area of the country with high humidity you will regret it. Don't worry about the octane, these low compression engines run good on 86, 87, octane, but do worry about the evil ethanol, it is a small engine killer. Just my 2 cents worth. Friends don't let friends run ethanol in their small engines. Oh and the correct ratio, well run that 2 stroke to lean (not enough oil) and see what happens, run it a little rich and the worst is a fouled plug. I've learned about running it with not enough oil, she'll run like a scared cat till it doesn't.
I totally agree with you that all those things happen. Non-ethanol is way better than ethanol gas. This is meant to get someone started and not worry about all that. As people progress in the hobby they will make the changes to improve performance. I’ll build bikes that will use nothing but non-ethanol gas in them. But because of the hassle with obtaining it my daily cruisers will just use whatever Casey’s gas station has. Man, I appreciate your comment brother. 🙏
I try to keep close somewhere between a quarter to a half gallon of ready to run fuel in my backpack at all times just as a fail safe. I've had to pedal longer and farther than I care to think about
I have two tanks with leaky rubber gaskets so fuel is getting all over the tanks and on my pants. Can I get decent gasket replacements at the local hardware store, or should I go back to BB for more of the same questionable materials that have gone bad in a hurry?
Regarding all the extra hardware mouting the gas tank. Wouldn't yiu have the same affect by simply mounting the tank normally but just don't tighten the nuts too much. Then add on 4 more lock washers and nuts to the original nuts. So 8 nuts total. Then the stress would go to the first set of lock washers and nuts and not on the gas tank. Isn't that correct?
I I need help with learning how to ride the motorized bike ,it's choking out on me every time I release the clutch ,can't get it to throttle everything is brand new
