Thank you so much for recording and publishing this lecture. I’m representing a client in the purchase of a new construction home and this serves helpful in estimating the cost requirement for outfitting a home for natural gas.
this helped a lot. im in trade school and struggle with this sizing.. and manifolds are different than that too! thanks for helping me understand. hope i pass the test tomorrow!
Sorry to be offtopic but does any of you know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tips you can give me
This was a fantastic video for me. I own a duplex home with separate gas meters. My house has a 95% furnace, gas stove, gas dryer, gas fireplace and tankless hot water heater which services both units (my duplex & my apartment). I want to add a basement gas stove for canning. Now I can understand what will be expected in cost/labor/work even before I contact someone for a bid. Next step is determining what’s there, like my appliance btu, of existing pipes and length from meter.
i have a bsme. this might take some iteration. right now it looks like pressure at nodes or something. i am merely trying to add a 30 foot length for an old , small gas kiln/furnace i just got. pipe roughness. usually assume turbulent flow. high reynolds number. the 1/4 inch copper tubing with x roughness will probably break down the pressure to a point where it is noticeable. gas company/county? maybe old shutoff valve. its called fluid mechanics/book. with tables. large number arithmetic with 10^4 etc. reynolds number = v d / u
Thanks for this video. My question is, looking at the drawing plan view, dont you need to include the vertical run as well? What I mean is gas pipe running inside the ceiling space horizontally and goes down vertically to serve ..say a oven or fryer. And also dont you need to include the 'elbows equivalent length' as well. Thanks
Yes. You need to include the stub out to the meter and the riser. and, if you're going down inside a wall that must be calculated, also. It's "total distance" But doesn't include the gas flexes or the arc of fittings.
In these tables the fittings do not have to be counted, as the table already accounts for "a reasonable number of fittings", yes you would also need to add the vertical sections, I just find the examples less confusing without verticals. High pressure tables in Ontario Code do not have allowance for fittings, so you must add the fitting resistance when sizing 5, 10, or 20 PSI examples
@@gregtaylor1341 Thank you Greg. im in toronto canada. one question is can you have 2 gas meter with 2 gas lines serving one commercial unit? (restaurant) or it has to be just 1 gas meter with 1 gas line?
hi greg I am student in George brown college and I writing tssa test soon could you explain high pressure sizing procedure of natural gas with fitting and without fitting over 2 psig thank you
Hey I'm going to George Brown right now! How was the TSSA test for you? I'm in my first semester right now and gas pipe sizing is kicking my ass (as you could imagine what brought me here)
Can you do one with venting furnace n water heater. Sometime it confuses me cause theres so many tables you gotta look for. Gotta find the dam right chart to size it correctly
Yes, it will supply more gas but the appliance does not need it. The larger the diameter of the pipe, the more money it will cost you. No need to spend the extra money!
I have a situation where I need some advice, my fire pit is 240k btu and 60 ft away from gas meter . My plumber installed 1/2” pipe all the way and fire pit is not getting sufficient gas due to smaller gas pipe size and recommend size is 1” for 60ft long . My patio is already built so it’s not possible to replace the pipe all the way and only option is to replace 50’ pipe with 1”and keep rest of the 10’ as 1/2” . Is it going to work provide enough gas for fire pit?
If you use a table based on 1" pressure drop to size your piping system you should not have more than 1" difference in pressure between the gas meter outlet and the furthest appliance (with all appliances in the system operating at full capacity)
why does everyone do this charting with the highest BTU unit at the end of the longest line? what happens with the highest BTU unit being on only say 10' of pipe and half way between the regulator and the end you have say 50' going to only a very tiny unit? i dont see why you need to size the LMR for 55" when you dont have a high demand for that 50' run, only a high demand for the 10' run.
@@gregtaylor1341 I'm currently in college at mohawk doing their utilities program, and all your posted videos are very useful. thank you for posting these. This helped me understand it quite a bit better.
Not a professional - advanced lifelong student of all things residential construction. I rebuild inexpensive 100 year old homes to rent with new wiring, plumbing , furnaces and gas lines in the process. Always ran 1" pipe everywhere so as not to think about it, downsizing right before the appliance to 1/2". Watched your video as I'm concerned about installing my first tankless water heater (160,000Btu) along with the usual - gas range, fireplace, dryer and 60,000Btu furnace.
I might be in the wrong place here. I'm trying to split the ng line going into my water heater to add and hook up a dryer (3ft away). I'm good with diy stuff but never had gas before. Alternative is to sell our gas dryer and buy an electric
Sir unless your a licensed plumber/gasfitter , you should not attempt to gas fit yourself as diy, pay a pro that way the work is done right the first time and the inspector oks it 👍 safety first
If plumbers weren't months out and giving ballpark estimates around $1,000 i would. I hadn't realized there is already a T fitting after a shutoff valve going into the water heater. So all i'm doing is connecting the dryer to a capped pipe 3' away. I know its the internet but there is TONS of info out there for people doing it themselves. I'll be using yellow teflon tape and bubble testing all fittings. Since i will be doing it myself, any other safety tips?
I understand your frustration with cost and time frame but unfortunately if you DIY this project and your house catches fire or explodes for any reason your insurance company may not pay for damages
@@gregtaylor1341 appreciate the concern. This ended up being even easier than i thought. Just attached two ends 4 ft apart with a flexible hose. Bubble tested the shizz out of it, stuck my face by each fitting for a long time smelling.
Just an FYI, you are not sizing the appliance drops to the national standards. You're main fuel run (trunk lines) using the longest run method is correct and accurate. But when you're dealing with drops your length should be calculated from the shut off of the appliance to the gas meter ( I believe your misunderstanding the code as written or missed that section in the instructions, which is understandable because it's kind of hidden). By using your method a drop for a 100,000 btu load would be the same size whether the appliance was up by the meter or a mile away. The mile away drop would be correct but the one up by the meter would be vastly oversized wasting time and money. Hope some of this information helps, stay safe & keep learning.
Hi Bob: I agree with your observation but I will offer that this is the procedure we teach here in Ontario Canada, as our governing authority creates exams using the above taught method. Thanks Greg
@@gregtaylor1341 , thanks for your reply and it is completely understandable why you're governing authority would want it taught that way, especially on residential applications. Thanks again, regards Bob
