Great and thoughtful video . Thanks If you have any time and want to extend that subject, can you make a video on gas pressure and pressure regulators. Thanks again
Good explanation. This is probably why a plumber suggested I would need a separate 1" gas line from the meter if I wanted to replace my tank water heater with a tankless water heater.
Jumping back into plumbing/gas fitting after a 9 year hiatus and hoping to challenge my Gas B exam. This breakdown is an incredibly good refresher man. Much appreciated.
My tankless hot water heater has two readings on the table for BTU per hour. Minimum input is 11,000, maximum input is 180,000. Which figure do I use to calculate the Cubic ft per hour? Thanks.
Another very interesting informative pipe sizing I like it. I’m originally from Missoula noticed once again you’re from Montana. Currently a plumber apprentice in Minnesota planning on getting my journeyman’s license in a few months. Studying up on pipe sizing diagrams. Thanks again for another great pipe sizing video. 🙂
I want to add fireplace log set which is 65,000 at about 60ft. There is currently a 1/2" pipe feeding a basement fireplace and my stovetop. If is not possible for me to get into the ceiling and change out the pipe to 3/4" . If I don't plan to cook and have the basement fireplace on when using the log set, would I be ok to install it?
Im installing a 245,000 btu generator on the longest/farthest line😫 i may need to change the 1” Csst installed in my house when i got it, to a 1-1/4”..i need to check NG pressure first, generator is calling for a minimum 3.5 in WC and maximum of 7 in WC..hope i can get 5-6 in WC while boiler/stove and furnace is running👍
You must install to only have .5 in WC drop from supply pressure to meet most code with natural gas. Just because one appliance can operate lower that that doesn't mean the all can without possibility of flare back or failure to ignite. also check to make sure your meter is rated for the complete load.
Thank you for the video. Apologies If I missed it but do you need to add any extra distance per union/coupling/90 you add into the run? Or just their standard size? I know for pool TDH there is a table that has a value of Head per adapter....was not sure if Gas had something similar or if that is just for pumps and water. Thanks again !!
You do not need to add any extra distance for unions, couplings, 90's etc. If you are bordering on a pipe size in the table, you could always size up if you have a ton of fittings.
I know this is basic for you but I am struggling. I have 3/4” steel pipe coming in. After about 10’ it splits into two half inch lines. One line is about 16’ long and runs a 50k but furnace. The other is about 13’ long and I am curious if it will support a 160k but tankless. This is all propane. The regulator is at the house and is 11-13” wc I tested the pressure at the drip leg of the old tank. It is 9” wc with the furnace running.
Bought a 1965 home in GA Gas line from meter is 1/2” After shutoff valve is downsize adapter to 3/8” There is a copper line running 10’ at various curves over my furnace from the shutoff valve to the water heater. It then connects at water heater with a 3/8” male to 1/2” male connector into the water heater. This doesn’t seem legal. Am I wrong?
Hi -William. Its awesome to have another video regarding pipe sizing. The way you describe its make so easy for learning and it ls another addition to the knowledge Library.....Cheers.....The book not available on store in Gulf.....Refer other link
Question for you. I have 70’ for my furthest distance. However, I want to install a 199,000 tankless water heater. The tankless water heater only has 3/4” connections. Using the chart, 3/4 is not supposed to be utilized even in a branch off of a 1-1/4 just to supply the water heater. The chart would state that I would need a 1” connection to the water heater. How do you get around this to meet code? Do you just reduce down to 3/4” close to the water heater?
Greeting from Big Timber...a couple of video ideas for you...one about bleeding air from a hot water heat system and another about how to "snake" or clean a slow drain...at any rate I enjoy your presentations...keep up the good work...
After determining the correct pipe size I need 1" 1/2" for the main however the pipe coming off the meter is only 1" is normal. I have upgraded the meter according to our gas company to a 450.
Why would everything have to be upsized if you did have that situation with the change to 1½ wouldnt the 1½ handle the load and the branches remain the same since those legths are unchanged and still fed the proper amount at that point? Sorry that one made zero sense to me
Hi, I see that the last pipe that connects to the meeter is a 1 1/4", I'm wondering if the meeter needs an adapter? Is the meeter a typical house meeter?
Its worth noting that the only purpose of the line reduction is actually to keep constant gas pressure everywhere in the system. Even a tiny 1/4" pipe would be plenty for the entire system if it were not for the pressure issues that would potentially cause. Look at the detachable propane connection to an RV and you can see the entrance hole is something like 1mm large!
That's because propane has a much higher CF to BTU conversion ratio. 1CF of propane is around 2500 BTUs, where as NG is around 1000 BTUs so you can support a much higher BTU load with propane using the same pipe size.
The agent put in NG that makes it smell like eggs corrodes copper tubing so it would be dangerous to use it for a NG application. Propane however, uses a different agent that is safe for copper so it can be used in those applications.
