I have replaced several dumps on this particular model and I always take the heat exchanger out to replace the sump , it’ enables you to wash out the exchanger or jet wash it outside and it’s so much easier to put the sump on while the exchanger is on the floor and everything can be greased up properly and you are 100% that all the clips are in tact and secure before fitting back in . I was surprised a Ideal engineer was so heavy handed in snapping that sump off there is still no need to make this job so awkward it’s really so much easier with the exchanger out of the boiler . Thorough video enjoy this guys previous lectures on fault codes etc , nice one for posting this Allen .
I completely agree with you. I have as well changed many sump on ideal boiler. I always take the heat exchanger out completely to change the sump. It quite easy that way and you'll be rest assured that you've done it properly and in safe way.
Alan i have a 10 year old ideal 35 combi losing pressure every day pressure relief valve seems OK I've sw of heating valves still losing pressure, I have a bungalow I've been under the floor 4 times can't find any leaks? Ido have a very slight leak on sump beside the inspection window no leaks below heat exchanger? Cheers really enjoy the videos I've learned alot cheers boiler works fine heating and shower
Absolutely no need to drain the boiler. You’ll be as well just taking the heat exchanger out doing it that way. You can still slacken the hex bolts pull hex and push sump back and down and the right hand side will come of. Then lever the left side between the sump and the rubber seal to protect hex and will pop of just the same. All without undoing connections and reusing the old seals, especially the o seals in the hex. Agree some of the butchers on RU-vid ripping them out is horrendous. Trust me … I’ve done hundreds.😉
I just like to do it that way. One times out of ten, the expansion vessel is flat so it’s as well draining it. I take my time, so it properly, neatly and I rectify anything else at the same time. I did say that people would ask why I do what I do. I appreciate your feedback but I will continue to do it my way, I does not take any longer in my opinion when your doing other work and I have the luxury of new o rings if necessary.
It's not hard to do our job right. There's too many people not doing the job right .they call themselves gas engineers but there not . The jobs should allways be done as manufacturers instructions. Too many don't do the jobs right .
The guy literally says this is just his way of doing it. Personally his way seems like best practice in case of something going wrong. It seems like it's 10-15mins more time, but avoiding an hour of other potential issues
Where did you grease (and what type) did you use on the expansion vessel to help it to keep its charge? A smear around the cap thread, or stuffed down the valve stem to seat the valve? Thanks and great video, I love the Logics and how nice to work on they are.
Hello, you are giving very good technical information. I wish you would add the explanation feature with Turkish subtitles, I don't know English. I write this translation to Google as an English translation and send it to you. We would be very happy if you add Turkish subtitles to your videos.
It’s a personal opinion really. I phoned Ideal and they said it’s just a broken boiler and not classed as anything. Personally I would class it as AR as the case could rot if it was left. That’s only my opinion. What would you class it as? Thanks.
I've persistently got error code FA which usually means the pump is the wrong way around and the flow and return is in reverse. I've had the same issue since May of last year when I moved into the property and I've had Robert Heath out who installed the boiler about 5 times to this same issue and each time they tell me they don't know what the issue is and go home again and Ideal tell me it's not down to them to fix it it's down to whoever installed the boiler🙄 Ideal have been out twice now once to fix the flow sensor and on the second time they said the pump is on the wrong way but can't touch it as it's down to whoever installed the boiler. It was a new boiler installed back in February last year before I moved in. I'm sick of it as each time my boiler turns on it shuts down after a few seconds of heating up but then comes back on again and repeats this until the boiler is very hot then I don't get the FA code. I bet you could fix it but it's down to Robert Heath and my landlord will only use them as they installed it. I'm not paying a penny my landlord covers it.
You are obviously diligent in your work but I do not understand why, if you are completing all that work, why you do not automatically replace washers ?? They cost little, they "appear" to be fairly common 3/4 stock items and it is far less likely that a leak will occur either immediately or at some time in the future if they are replaced. Regardless, any work we complete where a seal is dismantled, a new seal is fitted every time. Slightly off topic, what really infuriates me is when a boiler manufacturer component is purchased, they do not supply all the seals required to replace those being disturbed whilst completing the repair ! Good luck to you though, in my experience there are not enough people in this industry with pride anymore.
Thanks for replying , I was just wondering as on the service the engineer noticed a slight drip in the base of the boiler and the sump was then changed and it took about 20- 30 mins.
Guys can anybody please explain what goes wrong with this sump setup, there is Sulphuric acid, heat, vibration, thermal shock and plastic parts, not a great combination. However, we are in the year 2021, so what could be done to achieve a better solution and what have other boiler manufacturers done to overcome this very same issue. Kind regards
The only thing needed by your description is a proper installation and regular maintenance. I think your description of sulphuric acid is a little bit misled, as that would imply sulphur is present. Thermal shock occurs most of the time because of system problems but manufacturers built a fail safe into the pcb, by the thermistors detecting a 50 degree temp diff between the flow and return, which then would distinguish the combustion process, and the sump must be plastic as the condensate water would rot a metallic sump.
O.k I understand that, but there is a very small quantity of hydrochloride acid and nitric acid too in the condensate water. I wasn’t sure what point you were making. Sorry
@@kevincranfield5235 this boiler was manufactured in 2012 or there abouts, ideal have identified this fault and made the sumps of a thicker composite. Ideal claim it split because ppl were to rough in removing the silencer
