Bro, I would like to thank you very much for putting the time to do this great video, I can tell you that you are my hero. Just bought a GTX with the cluster flooded with water and the LCD polarized film was "bloated", I followed your instructions step by step and I was able to open it up and install a new polarized film, In my case, I also had to do a deep clean on the circuit and connections, Used a dremel circular brush to clean some circuit parts, WD40 to take the dirt out and after I did all of this, left a fan blowing the circuit over night. The down side is that I completely destroyed the needles trying to remove them ( I will purchase some standard cluster needles from ebay and install them) too bad I didn't mark the position, so I will use hot glue to put 2 tooth picks and have it on to find the position, then glue the real ones with JB Weld. Let's hope it will work. I CAN'T THANK YOU ENOUGH.
You're welcome! I scoured the internet before attempting the repair on mine, hoping that I would find out what I was getting into before I took the plunge, but barely found anything. I figured as long as I could help one other person it would be worth it. I'm amazed that, as of right now, I have more than 11K views and am the #1 video result in Google for SeaDoo gauge repair! As for the needle position, I tried to put my needles back exactly how they were, but ended up being about 500 RPMs too low and about 4 MPH too fast (when compared to the digital readout). However, the only way to actually tell if you have them in the right place is to have it all back together and have it out on the water, kinda unfortunate since you'd have to have it sealed back up to go out and test it.
2003 Sea Doo GTX. Thanks for the vid, I followed your direction and it was a breeze. A little nerve racking but easy with the right tools, I did find a video on how to remove the dials real easy. Use 2 forks to pry them up with, one on each side. Took me longer to figure out how to get the display out of the hood. It just pulls out with a little prying. Thanks Again
Can you test the display before adding the iphone polarizinging film and lenes? I scraped my display without removing the needles. I hooked it up - my needles move on plug in and startup, but no display at all.
Yes. Once you scrape off the old polarizer, the screen will not be visible at all. However, if you look at it through the new polarizer or a pair of polarized sunglasses, you’ll be able to see the screen again. Keep in mind that polarized filters are directional - if you still don’t see anything, rotate the polarized lens 90 degrees and it should come into view.
Maybe you have no display because you used a polarized film for iphone 5. on this one th epolarization is vertical. get the one for Iphone 6 plus and it will workr fine. the link is in one of these replies from Random DIY.
Hi, thanks for the video. I was able to get the front plastic covers off and replace the polarizer film. I was also shocked that I was able to remove both needles without breaking them. It looks ok to me now. The inner front cover has a foam gasket around it. Should I still be using silicone adhesive at that stage? I was also wondering if you would still recommend using epoxy to fasten the top cover? My worry with using epoxy would be the difficulty of ever getting into the cluster again. Would silicone adhesive work for the top cover as well?
Congratulations on successfully removing the needles without breaking them, that's quite a feat! I'm certainly not an expert on the matter, but I would say yes to both questions. If you silicone the inner cover in place, it's extra insurance against water intrusion ruining your gauge cluster. As far as the epoxy on the top cover, I personally didn't feel the need to leave any way to get back into the gauge cluster afterwards because I always leave my SeaDoo covered when it's not being used (the longest it went without a cover on it last year was for a day out on the water). It was sun damaged when I bought it and I assume it was from extended periods of being uncovered, not from periodic uncovering for regular use.
@@FixandMaintain Good point. I bought mine used as well and it was already sun damaged. I don’t leave mine out either so really shouldn’t have that issue again. On another comment I read that you had some condensation after the repair. Were you able to solve it by reapplying more epoxy to the top cover? What kind of epoxy did you use? JB Weld or something similar?
I had a very small amount of condensation after a day out on the water (I know the gauge cluster got splashed on more than one occasion). It quickly cleared up by the next morning. I believe it was from one of the cracks in the top lens, but not 100% sure. I applied a small amount of 100% silicone (like the stuff from a caulk tube, but not the cheap siliconized acrylic) around the edge and along the outside of the cracks, and wiped off the smeared silicone from the lens with an alcohol soaked cloth. I never had any more issues with condensation after that.
Thank you for the informative video. Mine is a 2002 and I literally watched the screen on the gage cluster go black. I was able to remove the two layers of film without removing the needles and got it all off. I'm down to the glass and cleaned it with goo gone. I can't seem to find polarizing film with adhesive, or at least a static cling. Many screen protectors are either glass or are not polarized and claim they're not because phone screens are already polarized. My screen looks fantastic through my polarized sun glasses, but not real visible without them. Any other ideas on where to get the correct polarizing film? Are the privacy screen covers what you're referencing? Those seem to all say glass as well, and I can't find if they're polarized. Need some help with this last part of the repair. I really appreciate your video!
You are correct that screen protectors are not polarized. Do not get a privacy screen protector for it!!! You actually need to be looking for an LCD repair polarizing film. The polarizer is laminated to the LCD along with the digitizer and outer glass in most screens now, so it's not something that's easily replaced, thus the reason it's so hard to find. I used an iPhone 6 polarizer that I found on eBay for a total of $5.77 last year. I do have a link to a 10 pack of iPad polarizing films on Amazon in this video's description. They're about 3x the cost of the one film I purchased, but that means you have replacements in case you mess up.
Hey Jim, I've got me this one from ebay ( www.ebay.com/itm/Polarizer-Diffusor-Film-for-Apple-iPhone-5-Polarized-Polarizing-Sheet/332310776261?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 ) Still didn't test it because my battery is not good and I've got a lot of stuff to do at work this week, but you could give it a shot. It is only 6 bucks. Installed mine 2 days ago. WHen you install it, remove the filme with the blu line first, that the adhesive side, then remove the top one after you install it.
@@FixandMaintain Thank you! I'll search again on Amazon. I've noticed if a search is not specific enough, you can't always find things on Amazon. I appreciate the quick reply. Webb also sent a link to e-bay, I'll check that out too.
I also noticed you did not change the film on the back side of the LCD which also looked to be damaged? Do you have a picture photo on how the LCD screen looked after the repair with it working on your Sea Doo?
No, I didn’t change the film on the back side of the LCD. I don’t have any experience in repairing LCD screens, so I didn’t feel comfortable doing anything more than the front polarizer. I don’t have any “after” pictures, but it the screen is easily visible now (although the dark oval in the middle is somewhat annoying). I would much rather have replaced the gauge cluster, but I was quoted $800 by a local dealer for the replacement. Thus I was happy spending $5 on a polarizer and fixing it myself.
The polarizer lines go one way and not the other so there is a 50/50 chance of putting it on wrong. So you might turn the seadoo on first and hold the screen up against the bad image and maybe you might hold the screen to see which way looks better. Be worth a try. I know if you had the old screen off you could try.
I actually did de-solder the LCD on mine and successfully re-soldered it, but I chose not to replace the rear polarizer because of the potential of damaging the liquid crystal layer. The display was completely illegible to begin with, and after replacing just the front polarizer was quite easily readable, so I took then win and put it back together.
I bought an iPhone polarizer film but it's either too dark or light. I can only read the screen in direct sunlight with polarized glasses on. Can you suggest where I can get one that'll work, when I tear it back down again.
If you can only read the screen with polarized glasses on, then the polarizer filter was probably not in the correct orientation, and should have been rotated 90 degrees. Try looking at any other LCD screen with polarized glasses on and tilt your head both directions. You can see it getting darker and lighter as the opposing polarized lenses rotate relative to each other.
Is the front plastic screen held on with an adhesive? Would it be easier to heat it up to make it easier to remove? I have moisture getting into my screen so I’m pretty sure I need to remove that front lens and re-seal it
The main (outer) lens I’m guessing is epoxy welded. It was extremely difficult to open up, and that’s with me using a box knife and any other tools that I thought would help. I doubt a heat gun would help. If the issue is just moisture getting inside the main part of the gauge assembly, you could try removing the pieces on the back, letting it dry thoroughly, then reinstall them and seal any cracks or potential openings. I would avoid cracking open the assembly unless you have to repair something inside it.
They’re only held in by a rubber gasket around the gauges. I found it easier to take out the gasket with the gauges (just using my fingers). After you get it out, there’s a wiring harness plugged into the back that you just have to push down the tab to remove.
I would advise against it unless you absolutely know what you're doing. I don't think that I would have been successful if I had to disassemble the LCD. There was some damage on the rear polarizer on mine, but it wasn't worth the risk of damaging the liquid crystal layer getting it off.
Mine was clearly the polarizing filter because it looked burned and cracked on the top layer of the LCD. Do your gauges work properly? It may be a problem with the actual LCD display if the screen appears normal.
It's simply a rubber gasket behind the trim holding it in place. Try getting a good grip with your fingertips and work it back and forth until it comes out. While it's best not to use tools to remove it, any kind of pry tool may help break it loose if the rubber has dry rotted. Just if you use tools, you run the risk of damaging the gauge cluster or the plastic cowl.
If you were to cut the back off, would you really be able to pull the gage cluster through the back? It looks like it sits on a ledge in the plastic housing.
Here is the forum post that my comment about cutting the back was based on. This was the only info I had about disassembling the gauge cluster, so I thought it might be easier to go at it from the front, but in the end, I'd say his way would be easier. As long you make your cut near where he did in the first picture, you should be fine. greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=244435
Yes, the needles were working fine before I did this. You should test with a volt meter to see if you’re getting 12v to the harness behind the gauges. I don’t remember which wires it is, but it shouldn’t be too hard to find.
Yes, it does need to be powered to see any information on the display. If you're halfway through with the repair and haven't installed the new polarizer yet, you can actually test the display while wearing polarized sunglasses or by holding the new polarizer in front of the LCD (otherwise, without the front polarizer, the display will remain blank).
I have repaired my screen and put everything back together. I sealed top lense in with silicone adhesive. I am having a problem with condensation. What did you do for this issue?
I did have a small amount of condensation after repairing my screen because I didn’t seal it well enough with silicone. After going back around the edge I no longer have any issues. If you get any on the front plastic, use a cloth with rubbing alcohol on it to clean it before the silicone dries.
I’m not sure that you can test the display without a signal from the SeaDoo computer. You could possibly test the gauge needles, but I don’t know what pins would need power to do that. I tested mine before reassembly by plugging it into the SeaDoo wiring harness.
I got a 2006 gti 130 and I cracked the plastic trying to fix it and kind of made it worse. how would i take it out and put in the new display without breaking it? also where can I get new displays and are they all around $700?
Looks like a new one for your GTI (part #: 278002217) is going to be $700 no matter where you get it from. Unfortunately BRP doesn’t sell individual parts for the gauge assembly. Not sure exactly how to remove yours, since all I have is the 05 GTX, but the diagram looks like there’s a plastic bezel hiding a few hex screws. www.seadoopartshouse.com/oemparts/a/sea/500d6b78f870020908257c4d/electrical-accessories-gti-std
You might want to try saving an eBay search for that part number that will send you a notification if there are any new listings. Even then, you’re probably looking at somewhere in the neighborhood of $400 for a used display.
I got mine all changed and put a new piece of polarization film but the words/numbers are very dim, I’m wondering if I did not get the correct piece of polarization film? I was trying to post a picture to show you but cannot figure out how to do that
That doesn’t make sense that the display is readable but dim, unless there is an issue with the display or the film. If you had to cut the film, did you use one of the existing corners of the film and only cut 2 sides or did you cut it out from the middle? From my limited understanding of polarization, the film has to be aligned in just the right way for it to work properly.
@@FixandMaintain I just cut the corner of it where I only had to cut two sides, Somebody told me you have to change the front and back of the screen but I don’t see how you take the screen out if that is true
I actually did remove the LCD from mine be de-soldering it from the circuit board when I was in the process of diagnosing why I lost power to the gauge cluster (turns out it was a bad 12v wire from the MPEM, completely separate from the gauge cluster), and I would not recommend anyone attempt it unless they are good at soldering many small wires! I’m not sure what is on the back of the screen to replace, mine was very readable with just replacing that one polarizing filter on the top of the LCD.
@@FixandMaintain Yeah I am not trying to remove the screen but just trying to figure out what to do with it I ordered a piece of polarizing film off of Amazon it was 4 x 5”...Even if you use the cell phone film you still had to trim yours correct
Yes, I used a polarizing filter from an iPhone 6 and had to trim it down to size. I just asked the question about cutting it on the off-chance that you may not have cut it exactly squared with the polarizer orientation and may have installed it a few degrees off-axis. But that doesn’t sound like that’s the issue. I wish I could help you, but I don’t have anything else.
Mine was only secured with light adhesive. I think I was able to get it off with just my fingernails, but it’s been a few years so I don’t remember. You might be able to use a butter knife going in through the cutout for the LCD to try to get it started. Either that or a small putty knife.
@@danzimmer4175 ok, yeah, mine didn’t seem to be very brittle when I removed it. The only other thing I can think of to suggest would be to use a heat gun or hairdryer on low heat to soften the adhesive before attempting again. You would have to be very careful not to get too close and cause discoloration to it, though.
The rubber gasket is the only thing holding it in place. Just use your fingertips or some plastic prying tools to slide it and the gasket straight out towards you.
Our SeaDoo 2003 GTX 4-Tec gauge cluster has stopped working altogether. Could someone tell me how to access the gauge assembly so that I can check the connection?
The gauge cluster is held in by a rubber gasket that goes all the way around it. Just pry it out with your fingers. It takes some effort, but there’s nothing else holding it in place. After you get it out, there’s one wiring harness attached to the back side.
my friends i fix my gauge with polarized from i phone 5 and i see different screen... now the words are white and the sceene is black but it work...now I do not see the indication of fuel... i buy the polarized film for i phone 6 plus and in the next days i will write if does work good or doing problems again...
I didn't realize it when I was recording the voiceover audio for this video, but it was actually an iPhone 6 polarizer that I used. I did correct it in the description, but I had forgotten that I said iPhone 5 in the video. I've updated the video to add a card at that point in the video. Let me know if you were able to get it working again.
Mine weren’t stuck together. It was a foam seal holding the inner cover in place. Once I got the outer cover off, I was able to pry out the inner cover fairly easily.
Yes I was able to get the black trim off but the outer clear cover is really on there . I just bout it used and wanted to swap out the clear one from mine to the new one since it’s less damaged . Plus it’s recommended to re seal it with better stuff then factory . Don’t want water damage again . Too expensive and hard to find . Mine was too far gone to rebuild it
They definitely are too expensive not to seal up as good as you can! I was shocked when I called my local dealer and they said it would be $800 for a new gauge cluster.
So I have the iPhone 5 polarizer. It’s black when it’s horizontal (fits the display) and transparent when 90 degrees (too small for the display). Do I have bad sunglasses, or did I get the wrong polarizer?
Have you tried plugging in the circuit board to the SeaDoo (not in the housing) and seeing if you can read the display while holding the polarizer in front of it? It may be that the orientation of the lenses in your sunglasses are 90 degrees off of what mine were. If you can read the display with the polarizer covering the whole LCD, go ahead and install it. Of course, then you won't be able to read the screen with those polarized sunglasses unless you turn your head sideways :) If you can't read it (with your sunglasses off), you may have to buy a different polarizer. I would think the all polarizers for the iPhone 5 would be in the same orientation, but since they're mass produced in China, that may not be the case.
Random DIY I just did that to confirm my initial findings. And I need a larger polarizer. I can read it vertically but not horizontally. I also used the dremel to cut on the seam. Turns out the harness wires are under that seam. Just some quick soldering fixed them. Thanks again for the video, it helped me. Side note: those needles are impossible to not break🤦🏻♂️
Thanks for the heads up, I saw someone mention the Dremel method in a forum and I thought it sounded like a better solution than what I did. They didn't say anything about the wiring harness. I added a card to pop up in the corner of the video with a warning. And yeah, if your polarizer is sun damaged enough to need to be replaced, those needles are going to be very brittle!
@@FixandMaintain I would not recommend that. WHen I was doing mine yesterday, I looked inside and didn't see any benefit of cutting with a dremel disc in that position. Just follow the method of @Random DIY and you'll be fine. if you're able to scrape the old film wihtout removing the needles, that's the best, because the needles WILL brake, that's a fact lol.
@@FixandMaintain the iphone 5 polarizer doesn't work on the 2005 seadoo wake - if you turn it sideways it will cover the screen but the readout is white instead of black and it will be difficult to read in the sun. I'm still in search of one to fit my screen the size I need is 3" x 1 1/2".
Yes. It was just a polarizing filter for an iPhone 5 that I bought on eBay, but after cutting it to size with scissors, it installed just like the old-style flexible screen protectors.
Using a flat bladed screwdriver, I was able to get the RPM needle to slide off the post. But when I put it back on, I wasn’t able to get it back in the exact same position, so it’s about 500RPM off of what the digital display shows. Since the speedometer needle broke off at the base, I was able to glue back in place, so it’s almost the same as the digital display.
I'm assuming you're talking about the valve in the bottom right when I took off the plates from the back? I believe that is a one-way valve to allow air out.
A fail that I had a gauge display that was completely unusable due to sun damage and now it works fine? A fail that I saved $700+? Sure, it's not as good as new, but at least it works!
@@FixandMaintain Neither of the two you've mentioned. Just a fail in that you could have taken more time in learning how to complete the task without the carelessness that you depicted in the video. If I'm going to take time out of my life to watch a video only to later perform the task myself, I want a 10 out of 10 instructional video. Not one whereby you're "winging" the repair....Having typed all that, I shouldn't even be complaining; I do nothing to contribute to the platform. lol
So, I was “winging” the repair only because there was absolutely no information other than a vague forum post (mentioning what I referred to as the “Dremel Method”) that had a couple of blurry photos in it. That was the ONLY information available on the entire internet for me to go off of! SeaDoo would much rather you buy a new $700 gauge cluster from them than show you how to repair a part yourself that they consider to be non-reparable. I made this video in hopes that it would help at least one person out in their desperate attempts to repair a gauge rather than replacing it completely. That being said, with over 13K views and ranking near the top of Google results for SeaDoo gauge repair, I’ve far surpassed my expectations in the popularity of this video. This was a brand new channel when I uploaded this video and thankfully I’ve had some other ideas for videos to upload, but I’m far from the threshold to make any money from it (1K subscribers and 4K watch minutes in the past 365 days).
@@FixandMaintain don’t listen to this person. It’s completely function and for the fact that it’s an educational video I think it helps that you messed up a little bit because someone could have made the same mistakes if they didn’t see the video. On another note, can you please tell me how to get the gauge cluster out of the jet ski. That might be a dumb question
@@bigjayk4527 thanks, yeah, if I had a second gauge cluster to practice on, I could have made a much more polished video. However, I’m pleased with how well the repair worked! At least on my SeaDoo, it was just held in with the rubber gasket. Grabbing it with your fingertips should work to pull it out. If it’s too stuck to pull out by hand, gently prying the cluster and seal with a screwdriver may take it out, but be careful not to scratch the display or damage the cowl.
