Thanks for watching, Let me know in the comments if you have attempted using this video to diagnose your fridge. Hit that like button if you enjoyed watching this video or it helped you out in anyway. Have a great day!!
Your video helped me fix our fridge, thank you!! After taking the covers off the fan and coils, I found a build up of ice and got it taken care of. We are running smooth now. Had previously fixed the issue that lead to the build up, so it shouldn’t happen again.
Try this to get the freezer working again. I have an LG Top-Bottom Fridge that was having the same trouble. Compressor and exterior fan were working fine but the freezer was not cooling. I removed the front interior trim of the freezer and saw that the evaporator fan was not working. I carefully unscrewed it from the housing frame behind the trim and checked the resistance and continuity on the wire connector which were excellent. Now I've seen repairmen who would just tell you to replace the fan but at that time of day that was not an option. Having done this before with a standing fan, I realised that all this fan wanted was a cleaning and lubricating of the magnets and impeller respectively. Eventually over time with these two there is a build up of dirt, and rust in some cases, which must be cleaned and so here is where WD 40 is your best friend. I used some of this on a paper napkin to wipe the two surfaces after which I used some treadmill silicone oil, you can use something similar, on the curved surface of the impeller as well as the shaft and end joint housing. I reinstalled the evap fan and plugged it in. Not only did it spin, but it spun faster than before. Also, make sure you clean the plastic fan blade which should just pop off the impeller shaft. I placed mine under the faucet and used some dishwashing soap. Hope this tip helps someone to save some time and money. 😀
The main board. It is on the back of the unit and controls every function of it. As I said, all functions seems to be working, I coud not adjust anything because I did not have the manual with me. I have it now and I will check again. I touched the pipes of the compressor and both were more or less warm at the same temperature. I like your response because you are giving me the hope that everything is fine and is just a matter of waiting a little longer. thanks again, we all need your videos and knowwledge...Ramon
Best walk thru I’ve watched The part I’m confused with is when you get to the compressor relay and you say take off the wires and check for power I’m not sure if your talking about voltage but you do say plug in frig
Would the reading be 120 volts. Another question , I have a kitchen aid fridge ksrs25rvwh02 model I can’t find the freezer defrost timer I pulled control panel, kick plate and rear of fridge and no luck Could it be on the control board
To be clear if I test the plug in wires to the compressor the power reading should be 120 volts . So if I have a control board there won’t be a separate defroster timer . Is there a way to test the defroster . My problem is the compressor is not running , the compressor fan is bad, compressor is reading ok . The next step was to check the defrost timer. Do I replace the control board or is there a test
@paulleary2312 yes most fridges you will get 120v supplied to compressor. The only way to test defrost in a fridge with a board is to catch it at the time it goes into defrost and check for power to the thermostat and heater in freezer compartment, or force a defrost but you would have to put it into diagnostic mode. Every fridge diagnostic mode is different.
I have a Frigidaire refrigerator and it keeps building ice in the freezer part . I defrost with hairdryer it work for couple of days and Then the lower part of The fridge is not cooling so I turn the defrost timer and I noticed that the heater coils work and the fan too so I know that the heater coil is good so then I change the defrost timer once again ran fine . Then again the lower part in the refrigerator was not cooling. Should I now test the difference thermostat? Also this started to happen after the light shorted.
for a defrosting issue, it can be a thermostat, heater, defrost timer/control board, or wiring issue. its tough to say which one is an issue until you get a meter on it and start testing. it sounds like the thermostat and heater are good, so its down to defrost timer or wiring. thanks for watching Jay Rod!!
Our freezer freezes just fine. The fridge part (the lower half) wasn't cooling. After watching a few videos, I deiced the system and cleaned up the coils. We put a thermometer in the fridge, which gets down to 38. When we open the door, the temp rises to 43. Is this kind of fluctuation normal? What should the range be on the temp? I don't know if the temp probe is faulty, but we get airflow between the compartments.
Yes that's fairly normal, the bulb can warm the fridge up very fast if the door is open for longer than 2 min. The cold air rushes out of fridge or freezer and warm rushes in every time the door opens. Thanks for watching
If you get a resistance reading between one of the pins and the case the compressor is electrically bad, this would mean one of the pins is shorted to ground, which is what the case of the compressor is.
I have a fridgeair and it don’t get cold at all like refrigerator or freezer. It’s a simple refrigerator with no ice maker or anything. When I power it on it sounds like everything works it’s just not getting cold at all. What do you think this could be?
Thanks for watching breannaluna, if there is no cold in the freezer or fridge but the compressor and fans are running it is more than likely a refrigerant leaking issue. In most cases a refrigerant leak is very expensive to fix.
If the freezer is making a grinding noise it is the fan motor i just fixed ours part was 66.21 took 20 minutes ge refrigerator seems to have problems with the freezer fan
Thanks for watching samuelsuggie, it sounds like the fridge either has very dusty condenser fins, or the refrigerant is leaking out, not letting it get cold enough, you can also make sure the fan in the freezer and in the back of the fridge are both running.
Great video on how to diagnose a refrigerator! I do have a question for you though. I have a refrigerator that looks exactly the same as the one you made this video with. My question is, is there any particular reason for having two thermostats wired in series from one another to complete the circuit? That was the first thing I noticed when I took the back panel off. Kinda threw me off as I was just expecting 1. Any info would be appreciated. I thank you in advance.
Thanks for watching chrissharicruz8367, I've never seen that so I dont know weather it was wired in as a failsafe, buy as far as I know that is not factory.
@@Thomasappliance That's what I thought initially. I ended up going to the manufacturer site and it shows two in the schematics. I was dumbfounded by it. I still am. I didn't understand the logic of it. I am actually working on putting it all together now. Im just going to put a single one in though. I have a parts fridge that will be the doner if the thermo. That one tested good and the others (O.E.M.) tested bad. We'll see what happens!
Thanks for the video. I’m going through our old freezer top Frigidaire, it’s not getting cold enough at the evaporator. Thermostat operates normally, defrost timer and heater work fine as well. Evap fan functions fine as well. Compressor kicks on fine and sounds normal. The problem seems to be at the evap coil. With a temp sensor, it reads at 0 degree F at the Freon entry point to the coil, but the cold only travels about three inches into the coil. I have a hunch that it needs a Freon recharge, which is not worth paying for on this 1999 fridge. Does it sound like low Freon to you as well?
Thanks for watching thinkcooper, yes you got it, the freon is undercharged, and would need some more added. The problem is in order to fix the leak the whole job is huge and very expensive.
@@Thomasappliance appreciate the confirmation. Ordered an inexpensive gauge and piercing nipple kit with some r134a. Probably a futile repair, but if I could get a few weeks out of the garage fridge, that would help us figure out our long term strategy. Wife wants a new kitchen fridge, maybe it would be smarter to move the old kitchen fridge into the garage, and invest in a new one. I know my wife would think that a hero move, but in the meantime, the beer isn't cold.
@@thinkcooper any connection on the fridge could leak, most fridges had a dye in them to aid in finding leaks. That being said I've seen a lot of leaks in evaporators up in the freezer section. Most of the time its not really too obvious though.
Hi pal how are you? it is a great job what you are doing! I wonder if you can help me I have a DAEWOO fridge freezer side by side model no: FRN-U20DCC. The problem when I plug the fridge it works now for 5 minutes and it stops then I will have to in plug it then wait for minimum 3 to 4 hours before it will work a gain. By the way a week a go it was working for 40 minutes and it starts within 1 hour. When I live the plug in after it stops, it start a gain the Compressor it shakes and it stops. If I plug it in before the 3 or 4 hours I will have to wait even longer. It will be great to help me fix the problem! Thank you!
Hello I have a fridge similar like this one and it keeps spilling water everywhere in the floor in the food in the fridge in the freezer. However the water drain hole in the freezer is not frozen at all the water is just not going down
what i have done in that case is run a plumbing snake thats fairly narrow down the hole and see what comes out the other side. Thanks for watching Entry Level!
Hi so I have a frigidaire and its not cooling at all. I didn't understand very well how do I check the cold control. Or when is it bad. I have a new timer type looks like a box and you can't tested. I have the top freezer I've tested relay and compressor all work.
Thanks for watching russpeaknuckel, if the fan is not working in the freezer it won't get cold in the fridge, also if it fridge isn't going into defrost and is over iced in the freezer it won't be able to push air down into the fridge.
So freezer coil is all iced up and also the refrigerator stopped cooling. I believe I have two problems. The fan isn’t working in the refrigerator and the refrigerator freezer the defrost isn’t working . I changed the motherboard , but that didn’t fix the problem. Noticed the fan in the refrigerator doesn’t turn without me turning it by hand with effort. I believe the fan motor is bad . I will let you know what else is going on 😅
Thanks for watching davidmonte, it sounds like there may just possibly be a defrost issue, if the frost/ice build up is bad enough it will stop the fan from running, making the fridge section not cold.
Enjoyed video. Got an old GE, split door refrigerator, the freezer is freezing ice, but the refrigerator side doesn't seem to get cold enough(milk is going bad), what would you look for first?
The freezer produces all the cold and a fan just moves the air over, I would check the fan first, if its working ok the evaporator could be overiced which would mean it's not going into defrost, in that case I would check the defrost thermostat and heater. Thanks for watching, hope you can figure out that fridge, let me know how it goes.
Hello, Sir. I am trying to diagnose a GE refrigerator, model GSS25GQTA CC. The auger motor and the water dispenser won't stop running unless I disconnect them. Assuming that there is a short somewhere, and under the assumption that the micro switch receives power from the control board and the switch is closed when you try to get ice, I ordered a micro switch, which did not fix the problems. Someone suggests buying the door dispenser solenoid, which opens and closes the flapper. I don't see how this will resolve my issue. The flapper opens and closes whenever I select cube or crush ice. could you tell me what both the auger and the water dispenser has in common and how the ice and water dispensing work for that module.
Thanks for watching alwayslearning, I was looking at the wiring diagram for this fridge and there is wires right beside each other that if they were touching the dispenser would open like that, I think its either wires touching or the board near the dispenser area that is faulty. You would have to download the wiring diagram for your fridge and trace power for wires of things that are being affected.
Thanks for watching paulb, I've never seen or heard of Beko, but I looked it up and it says using two separate balanced air circulation cooling systems to maintain optimal humidity in the fridge while keeping the freezer frost-free. So I'm not sure how they are running 2 separate systems but ill look into it more.
You can test the compressor 3 prongs for resistance, 2 of the resistances will add up to the third resistance across 2 of the terminals. Merry Christmas to you as well.
My compressor doesn't come on but it feels warm to the touch I replaced the starter switch and capacitor it still doesn't turn on and the frig isn't very cold either is the freezer, any suggestions.?
Sounds possibly like the compressor is starting to go, you can test it electrically, which will probably test ok but test also voltage to compressor. Thanks for watching Robby nV!
The white round directional that allows air from the freezer to the refrigerator mine happens to have letters on it. M, c1, c 2, c3, W1, W2, W3. Can you tell me the correct position? I'm having trouble with the freezer downspout freezing, causing the refrigerator too warm
You would want more air flow into the fridge section but I've never seen or noticed those marks. Is it building up a lot of frost, because you might want to check the door gaskets?
the defrost control is just advanced ? turn the screw clockwise? till it goes into and further clockwise, it goes out of defrost? I have one that thawed and the pan underneath filled and went on the floor. another person evidently could have put it in defrost? normally I get this start/ stop condition with unusual fan starts and restarts. click down below, and it's cooling. right now it's fans only, so I'm cleaning it and under it and in the back cover. if I understand you right, it should run after advancing the defrost screw? it's familiarity I lack and I couldn't see just what you were doing. and the desired result.
Thanks for watching Danny Linc, yes the defrost timer is just advanced by the screw that you can turn clockwise, it will just advance it to the defrost cycle and then back to run. When its in defrost all fans will stop and the only thing running will be the lights and the heater. When defrost is off everything else runs.
@@Thomasappliance so if I have fans and no click down below regardless of cold control setting, but no smell or bad indications other than not cooling, I should, what, check the compressor relay ? It's a metal box thing with a bail clip kinda like old car distributor caps had. Is there another switch likely besides that?
@@dannylinc6247 yes check power to the compressor first, then do a resistance check on the pins of the compressor, because it should be running if fans are running.
My mini fridge seems to defrost too long . Is it possible to get the hour run time and the 20 - to 30-minute defrost time wires hooked up backward? Could it be the thermostat on the coolant line isn't working ?
The wires are on a plug in most fridges so usually there is only one way to plug into timer, the thermostat may be out of place, or the timer is sticking in defrost possibly. Thanks for watching darellsunderlin.
I'm a bit confused about that thermometer in the freezer section. You said that it was open at room temperature, so it's good, and it will close when it gets cold enough. But it controls the heater? Is this part of the defrost cycle, that when the timer calls for defrost, the thermostat will be cold and thus closed, allowing the heater to heat. Then eventually it warms up enough back there (and all the frost is melted off) and the thermostat opens and the defrost action is done? Is that what's going on here?
I have a 4 year old LG fridge that is not cooling. The ciompressor and fan are working, however, the compressor gets very hot and does not seem to shut off. I tested the compressor's resistance and I do get continuity on both of bottom pins, but when I test each bottom pin to the top pin, i get nothing (on the top pin). Does this mean that my compressor is bad?
Thanks for watching Retired & Happy. You probably have a linear type compressor in that fridge, so you won't get a reading from the top pin to the others. If your compressor is getting really hot thats a good indication that it is a leaker and doesn't have much refrigerant left in it if any.
retired & Happy ... I too have this lg fridge same symptoms. I adding R134 I'll just say I'm now going to try again to switch out the compressor. I guess don't try this without a vacuum pump. my experience is that the compressor might blow up.
Hi dear, I have 2 small fridge, one doesn't start cooling unless the compressor gets a little hot, and another never cools but the compressor is extremely hot on touch, (tried fixing but they say compressor is damaged, any advise
Thanks for watching Josephine Nalwoga, it sounds like the really hot one is a low refrigerant fridge. The other one that cools sometimes could be a block in the system, but also possibly a leaker.
Great video Greg. Slow and informative. Question. My Fridgidaire is not cold enough. Changes the timer, evaporator fan and thermostat. I did notice but if frost on the coil and when in defrost mode, I feel no heat on the defrost burner. But continuity reason say 036. What do you think problem could be. Should I just replace the burner even tho it read fine?
if the heater reads fine I wouldn't change it, did you check for power to the element when it is in defrost? also check out the frost pattern after it is running for a while and see if it is a full frost pattern, if not you could have a refrigerant issue. Thanjs for watching John Ly
@@Thomasappliance strange but I checked burner again and this time it's working, nice and hot but previous 2 times it wasn't. Did notice frost is on the whole coil but not on the fins so I am suspecting the frosting is not at severe stage. Just can't figure to why freezer is coldn( 23 Fahrenheit) but not cold enough.
@@billmurphy1335 yes the timer, thermostat and defrost heater were changed recently and still frosting on the coil and freezer not cold enough. Only thing I can think of is maybe new timer is crappy or burner only work when she wants to work
Hi Greg! great video and explanations as always, no surprise!. I only have a silly question for you today.....how long do I have to wait for my WHIRLPOOL start cooling after finally I installed the digital board. Everything seems to be working, I mean all the functions, freezer fan, compressor and its fan running and all the components were checked OK, but I did not notice any change in temperature after five minutes of being connected. I read the manual and it says to wait around 24 hours ro have it completely cool, but my question is just how long it would take to start cooling...please if you can tell me something about this. I will appreciate it very much, as ever. Thanks a lot, Ramon, Miami.
Thanks for watching Ramon Perera, usually in around 15 min you can feel the cold air starting to come into the freezer as long as the board doesn't go directly into defrost like some of them do. It will take 24 hours to get to full operating temps. which board did you change?
@@Thomasappliance The main board. It is on the back of the unit and controls every function of it. As I said, all functions seems to be working, I coud not adjust anything because I did not have the manual with me. I have it now and I will check again. I touched the pipes of the compressor and both were more or less warm at the same temperature. I like your response because you are giving me the hope that everything is fine and is just a matter of waiting a little longer. thanks again, we all need your videos and knowwledge...Ramon
@@Thomasappliance Hey Greg, thanks. After a power outage, the fridge and freezer quit cooling. When I turn the manual temp dial, it used to "click", now it doesnt, but the compressor still warm, coil fan still running, the fridge just isnt "initiating" so I thought it's either a bad cold control or the evap cycle wasnt happening. Your take?
@@wyattspop is the compressor running at all? If it is there is a good chance its a refrigerant leak. If its not running, is the fan at the back running?
@@Thomasappliance Hey Greg, it's not running at all, but its warm (105 degrees), the coil fan is running and the lights work, the vent door motor works when I change the temp dial to "0" but nothing else is running.
@@Thomasappliance This began when we had a brief power outage if that helps, I don't think its a sealed system issue since it worked right up till the power went out. Thats why I wanted to find the defrost timer advance screw, to see if that "jumpstarts" it
Hi, I just unplug my GE fridge to defrost icing up top freezer for couple days, when I replug in the fridge not running at all the compressor is not running and the fan beside that is not running , do you know why? Thanks
Hi, Greg thanks to reply to me, yes i did what you told me the fridge is running now , but the temperature is unbalanced, I set it on 5 on freezer and the cooler . the freezer is about 5F and the cooler only 25 F, so do you know is the temperature sensor problem or the thermostat problem? Thank you very much
@@huihongzheng5557 if it looks like its overfrosting in the freezer there can be a defrost issue, the freezer temp should be at around 0f and the fridge at 37f. It seems colder than what you want so turn down the control until it seems about right.
It really depends on which fridge, most after defrost there is a time period called dwell where the heater turns off and everything sits for a bit to dissipate the heat. Also the freezer door switch must be closed on most fridges to engage the fan. Thanks for watching Terry Gauger!
@@Thomasappliance Its a LG 4 years old . Linear Compressor checks out good on one set of prongs and 0 on the other two . Neg. Continuity . PSI rises some after power shut off . PSI is at around 3- 4 . Compressor sounds good and condensor fan runs . Just not cooling .
@@Thomasappliance NO , The freezer was freezing for awhile as well as frige. Now getting error 6 flashes . How do I tell if the mother board was reprogramed?
My freezer is icing up. Frig part is cool but not as usual. Tried removing light / control assembly but only got it to drop down. Icould not get it to unplug to see if drain was plugged. I ended up taking everything out of both compartments and unplugged for 24hrs. I then put everything back. 24 hrs later there is ice building up on back wall of freezer again. What should I do. I don't have a tester. And the motor area is dry. It hasn't started leaking in frig again as of yet. Please help. I can't afford to pay service and repair fees. It's a Kenmore 12yrs old. Also it has an ice maker that I took 3 screws out but was not able to remove from the side of freezer. And the air duct part would not come out so that I could take the back panel off to reveal the coils.
Thanks for watching theresahundley5142, so the ice build up, is it on the could because that would be a defrost issue, or is it in the drain pan and water is running into fridge compatment? Is the freezer on top?
@@Thomasappliance freezer is on top. And I can't get to the coils. The ice is building up on the outside of the back panel( in the food compartment) I can't get the ice maker off to get the back panel of to see the coils
Once you get the three screws out that mount it to the side of the freezer it should just fall off, I would think there is another screw holding it on somewhere
@@Thomasappliance that's what I thought too. I took out the 3 screws put it was still secured to side wall. I couldn't find any where else ther could be a screw or something it clicked or slide off of.
@user-ze4oz2ck1c usually if you have any reading between 10 and 130 ohms you are good. It's when there is none that you have to worry. Every fridge is different, so expect a different range.
Hi pal how are you? it is a great job what you are doing! I wonder if you can help me I have a DAEWOO fridge freezer side by side model no: FRN-U20DCC. The problem when I plug the fridge it works now for 5 minutes and it stops then I will have to in plug it then wait for minimum 3 to 4 hours before it will work a gain.
My top freezer GE wasn’t working so I took the panel out of the freezer. I found one of my fan motor wires broken even with the grommet. When I wiggled the other one, it broke off too. Is there any way to get enough slack to reconnect them. The back of the fridge is not accessible.
RAY KNOPP that is a tough one, I would have to see it but no I don't think you can get more slack, if it goes into the fridge walls theres not much you can do. Thanks for watching!!
@@Thomasappliance where do these wires come from? I know one is just ground. I’ll run a new one some how. I’ve tried to get a wiring diagram with no luck.
@@rayknopp4602 the wiring goes into the wall and either runs to the board if it has one or runs to underneath the fridge to meet up with the rest of the wiring. You might be able to pop the grommet off and see if you can get any extra length.
@@Thomasappliance The grommet is attached to something. It won’t move. If I ohm out the wires to see where they are at the bottom, I’ll just run two new wires out the ice maker water line hole and down the back. If I had a wiring diagram, I could make sure I wasn’t bypassing anything.
Thanks for watching teddy bear, if you are talking about the fan, then no I wouldn't use wd-40. Lithium grease could be used but most fans you can't really get into the bearing.
hmmmm, my drain tube is filled to the top with standing water, not sure if it should be this way. I will relisten, you speak so softly I may have missed something.
Hello, Sir. Would you be willing to explain to me and everyone else where the icemaker thermostat gets its power from? I have not come across any videos explaining how the ice maker really works. From what I know so far is that the Ice maker module sends a signal to the water valve when a certain temperature is reached. But what role the main control unit plays in the icemaking process? Thank you. Your answer would be highly appreciated and would contribute to my diagnosis.
Thanks for watching BB MD, the one side of the thermostat always has supplies constant power from the module, when the thermostat is cold enough it closes causing the power to flow through the thermostat and on to the heater, more or less to loosen the ice cubes from the mold so the ejector fingers can push the ice cubes out of the mold.
@@Thomasappliance Thank you for this great explanation, Sir. Knowing that the thermostat is powered by the ice maker module will help me a lot in my diagnosis. That will be the same thermostat that sends the signal to the inlet water valve, to allow water into the ice maker, I believe. How does the thermostat sense the temperature? My issue is my GE ice maker is not making ice. When I did the test, the ice maker fingers rotate, water is dispensed into the ice maker, ice is formed , but never drop into the bucket, which makes me believe that the ice maker is probably fine, the water control valve is fine. I am more leaning towards the thermostat because the inlet valve never only dispenses water into the ice maker during the test. What do you think?
@@Thomasappliance I will try to check it when I have time. Knowing how things operate now makes a big difference. At first, I thought the thermostat that deals with turning on and off the compressor was the one that sends a signal to the inlet control valve. Thanks to you now, I understand the ice-making process. I am yet to understand the role of the main control board in the process.
I removed the Icemaker and tried to troubleshoot it, but couldn't. This is a GE brand. I removed the cover and did not find the letters that I see in some videos, such as T, H V, L and so on to jump. I ended up ordering an icemaker. Hopefully, I will fix the issue. I work in cars. I understand electrical. In cars, when you bi-directionally command the AC compressor on, you basically bypass the inputs. If the compressor engages that means you have an input problem. I don't know if it is the same for the refrigerator. GE suggests that you turn the icemaker off for 15 sec, then back on and press the ice level thing 3 times. Does that bypass the mold thermostat?
Thanks for watching Zeresenai Ghrmation. Defrost is a big issue with these fridges not cooling properly. In that system is the heater, defrost thermostat, and either a board or defrost timer.
Lol yeah that was when I was learning to edit videos so I smiled for a long time. There is some pretty good info in the rest of the video if you can get past the first 10 sec. The music levels have been changed on more recent videos also.
@@Thomasappliance thank you so much Greg. I have a GE Profile Model PFE28RSHGSS, the freezer works fine but the fresh food section does not, I have watched a few videos and everyone says it could be a fan inside of the unit. I will go ahead and watch your videos and obtain more information. Thanks again
@@NG-fq5lf that could be a defrost issue or a fan issue. If you pull off the freezer back panel and it is heavily frosted the issue is in the defrost system. If you hold the door switch closed in the freezer and don't hear the fan come on, it should be a fan issue.
Thanks for watching Bill Covey, learning how to edit videos and knowing what goes into a good video is something new to me, in my newer videos the background music is almost off and I think I like it better too.
Hi pal how are you? it is a great job what you are doing! I wonder if you can help me I have a DAEWOO fridge freezer side by side model no: FRN-U20DCC. The problem when I plug the fridge it works now for 5 minutes and it stops then I will have to in plug it then wait for minimum 3 to 4 hours before it will work a gain. By the way a week a go it was working for 40 minutes and it starts within 1 hour. When I live the plug in after it stops, it start a gain the Compressor it shakes and it stops. If I plug it in before the 3 or 4 hours I will have to wait even longer. It will be great to help me fix the problem! Thank you!
Hi pal how are you? it is a great job what you are doing! I wonder if you can help me I have a DAEWOO fridge freezer side by side model no: FRN-U20DCC. The problem when I plug the fridge it works now for 5 minutes and it stops then I will have to in plug it then wait for minimum 3 to 4 hours before it will work a gain. By the way a week a go it was working for 40 minutes and it starts within 1 hour. When I live the plug in after it stops, it start a gain the Compressor it shakes and it stops. If I plug it in before the 3 or 4 hours I will have to wait even longer. It will be great to help me fix the problem! Thank you!
It sounds maybe like the compressor run winding might be shorted. I would start with checking the compressor electrically to see if its ok. Thanks for watching!!
Thank you for your reply! It will be grateful if you send me any video to take me step by step how to check the compressor electrically to see if its ok. Thank you!
Hi pal how are you? it is a great job what you are doing! I wonder if you can help me I have a DAEWOO fridge freezer side by side model no: FRN-U20DCC. The problem when I plug the fridge it works now for 5 minutes and it stops then I will have to in plug it then wait for minimum 3 to 4 hours before it will work a gain. By the way a week a go it was working for 40 minutes and it starts within 1 hour. When I live the plug in after it stops, it start a gain the Compressor it shakes and it stops. If I plug it in before the 3 or 4 hours I will have to wait even longer. It will be great to help me fix the problem! Thank you!