This may be the only 80 percent Glock clone frame available now. I was saddened to hear that Polymer 80 closed their doors for good on July 25th 2024. Their legal defense bankrupted them. I hope Geisler Defense can withstand the legislative onslaught.
Feel free to make a video doing the shims - specifically the takedown lever shims. My slide stays out of battery unless I push it forward. That’s the only way I can get the trigger to break. Thoughts? Great video. Thanks!
RU-vid doesn't allow folks to teach how to build 80%s (or guns in general). If I were to give you a hint... I might have already made the content you're looking for and it might already be out there on Odysee
@drakepamilton8096 Try a different slide. I had 3 slides. With the first one, it often didn't go the last bit into battery, and the trigger pull was a lot. It was one I got from ghostguns. I had 2 others from PSA. The first one of those was a bit stiff trigger, but it always went into battery. The third one had an even better trigger pull and always went into battery. Everything seems to work fine with no shims or modifications.
@@NotaGuntuber I went to oddysee and looked. Appears to me to be the exact same video as this one. The other video "without mods", doesn't sound like the right one, plus I couldn't understand a word you were saying in it.
So disappointed, mine had all the same problems. It's just not something I have faith in, shims or not. Hopefully they clean up their tolerances in the future.
Did you get the frame recently? If so you should have a Gen 2 and they have tightened up several things. Most notably the takedown lever slot that I shimmed in the Gen 1. Go watch my video on the Gen 2. It will clear some things up.
Gen 3 19 slides. If you go to the Geisler80 subreddit there are folks modifying the frames to take gens 4-5, but it apparently weakens the frame due to the amount of material that must be removed to accommodate the larger nose on those generations.
Good evaluation for the building. Fitment and Fitting. If you build - you must do some fitting. Period. Plus, most military style forearms have large open tolerances and rattle. They are not unsafe. Fit your parts. Check safety features function.
@@US2A would you in this market? I also noticed something really interesting. With all the supply issues from P80 and them pissing off customers with that whole non-delivery thing from a year ago, I'm seeing a lot more Geislers built on Reddit. And the temperature towards them change. Now that their availability is a selling point, a few extra steps to build one out seems like it might not be an issue for folks anymore. I also see folks referencing my methods in posts which is also fun and I can only imagine helps a bit with the acceptance too.
@@NotaGuntuber if they fixed the slide moving forward then send em over. Their business dealings are weird. I don't see 80s for awhile in the future from either company. Being a dealer for both they sure don't have much info. Geislers update frame where supposed to be out last November. You think they would be taking advantage. I mean it's fun to build but spending 100 bucks and having to glue things in (I didn't on My 1st gen black one) I can see how that's annoying. To most. The wall being higher on the 2nd gen frame (the fde one I got) fixed it. The takedown hole (which doesn't affect anything on the new one) and the slide sitting sitting a little high is no biggie and I don't know why people complain. Yosi told me not to run a comp though 🤔🤣
@@NotaGuntuber someone else in the US needs to compete. The owners are pretty hard headed lol. I've been waiting for an od green for from the importer but he is in and out all the time too.
Excellent video, thanks for making it. I have just one question: can you tell me what angle gauge or type of angle gauge you used to measure the angle of each rear rail? Like you, tinkering is my game. However, I do not own an angle gauge, other than large clumsy protractor types that would not serve the purpose of something that small. Thanks either way.
Here's the one I have. I just needed ballpark for this action since the stoning of the rails would perfect it in the end. Amazon search for General Tools Angle Protractor #17. Also, check out my Odysee channel for more details as well.
@@NotaGuntuber Thanks very much! I did order that very good deal of an angle gauge, and I found your Odysee video too, that I’ll check out a little later. Much appreciated.
I just watched and the build on odysee and liked your video, very detailed. I'm looking to do this but i have a question where did you get the plastic for your shims? Thanks
Literally anywhere. In the video I used a piece of black plastic that I cut off of some free thing I got that has a bunch of holes that you can put drill bits through to check their size. Honestly, just find any correctly colors plastic. Rough it up with sandpaper. Check that it's a type of plastic that can be glued. If it glues well, go use it. As for thinning it down. Either find something that's already close and follow my process. If you can't find something close then hand sand it til its close and then use it. Best of luck!
The trigger guard matches that of a standard Glock. So the technical answer is that it fits anything that takes a real Glock 19. But obviously any Glock 17 holster will work too just with extra nose space. And any Glock 26 holster provided it isn't a closed end design.
I might b late to this party. But mine came out pretty good fully functional. The lock block could be tighter but it didn't concern me till I heard about it
Same here, I have 3 Geisler Frames that have close to 2k thru each...zero problems other than some initial tinkering and a stronger recoil spring in 2 of them.
How can one shim the take down lever? The only issue I have is the slide moving a hair forward when pressing the trigger. I don’t understand the concept but I am new to this all.
Best said gen 1 is utter junk after mods are you going to trust this frame with your life when you can buy a glock frame for around $120.00 & a transfer fee for the same money ,p80 makes a much better 80% frame ,I could tell when sanding the plastic it is not as strong either weak even ,7 emails they dont stand Behind there product p80 does ,I will Modify mine at some point for range use ,but i should not have to. range toy at best
Hi NotaGuntuber, I've just finished building my 19x, then I'm starting to see all the flaws by seeing the videos. My question is, does it still work? My recoil spring does seem like it gets unseated off of its lug by I guess getting hit with the slide release lever. I haven't fired it yet so I'm trying to get some info before I do. I did watch your odyssey video...very informative...you have a new subscriber. Do you have an email that you can be contacted at? Thanx!
Just reread your comment and saw that I didn't answer all of it. So, yes. Yes it does still work. Several hundred rounds in and no issues past a few in the initial break-in period.
Thanx for the reply but I'm not sure when you said, "I do" was that referring to your email address because I tried to respond back through my email but it said it couldn't send...anyway...again thank you for your tips in the video. I also wanted to know what type of plastic did you use for the shims and would Gorilla Glue work?
@@Bgr8full83 Apparently I am a jerk! I just looked and my email wasn't there after all. It is now. Feel free to reach out there as well, but here's the answers to your two questions. The plastic I used was whatever plastic I had lying around that was black. Simple as that. No reason to get complicated here. Just maybe stay away from the highly flammable ones like cellulose based stuff. But other than that, I wouldn't over think it. Gorilla glue will be a pain. It expands when it dries and you are going to spend a lot of time and effort cleaning it out of the channel afterwards. It'll also likely get everywhere on the outsides and make your frame look bad. I'd avoid it and just stick to normal, thin superglue.
Hello again...sorry for the hour of the day...I was wondering if you can give me some more advice? Is it normal for the recoil spring to shift when you pull the slide back? I'm guessing it's not supposed to? I shimmed the gap for the take down spring, so now the slide doesn't spring forward the hair that it did when you pull the trigger. The lever doesn't shimmy back and forth so that's a good thing. It is a bit tight to pull down but there was progress there. So back to the recoil spring...it shifts almost off after about 5 pulls on the slide...any suggestions? Thank you in advance for your attention at hand.
The rail is to high in the rear because of the rear pin. It is .8mm to high. The trigger meninism shouldn't need to be modified to fit the frame. The P80 doesn't need any work done. Tinker is not needed with a properly make frame. It is all out of spec. Are you a gunsmith? It doesn't sound like it.
Not to get into a pissing match. But I have corrected 3 of them. By relocating the pin to correct position. A shim should not be required.@@NotaGuntuber
@@vincer8691 no pissing match inferred. It is possible that I am mistaken. As I discuss in my full length video the main reason I went this route was because on both Geisler frames that I have built I could make the housing rock back and forth even without the pin inserted. At the start of the video I claim it doesn't rock, but later I realize it was getting hung up on stuff and it does indeed rock back and forth without a pin even inserted. I also discuss how with the shim (or the housing rocked backwards) the little tail on the housing sits perfectly flush with the back of the frame and that the top of the housing is perfectly parallel with the frame as well. These were the main indicators I used to make my decision. If you're not having to shim the housing, that's awesome. I would not look a gift horse in the mouth. I hope others don't have to either and would love this to be just some one off issue I stumbled upon. I also mention in my newer RU-vid video (where I don't mod the frame at all) that I believe this trigger housing mod is probably the least important of the ones I did. Take it for what it is. If you'd like to leave the details of how you got yours to work better by moving the hole I think that would be awesome for future comment readers to see as well. I'd appreciate knowing the details too just to absorb some more info and options. How were you able to accurately drill the hole at that location? I'd imagine you had to not use the jig as it would have gotten in your way.
HAven't tried. Probably could. Although, like I said in the video, once I caught my mag release spring install issue, the magazine moving didn't really bother me. It is honestly not that much movement and has no functional impact I've noticed so far.
Is the front rail set workable in a p80 build? Reason i ask is p80 rail kit 54.99 plus shipping, giessler jig and rail kit is 39.99 have you compared them by any chance? Or could you 🙏 also i do mean for a g19/23 frame
@@everettdevore1072 update. Got access to an unfinished compact P80 frame for a little bit. The Geisler rail does fit in a P80 compact frame. It is very tight, but it fits. That does not mean it will work. Unless I build this out, which I'm not going to, I cannot guarantee that the Geisler front rail will be coplanar with the P80 rear rails. I can however guarantee that the Geisler rear rails don't fit a P80 so you're going too have to buy a P80 rear rail no matter what anyways. In the end, I think you're asking for a whole bunch of risk to try and save $15.
Ahh ok thanks for taking the time and checking amd unfortunately I'd just order the p80 rails but to my astonishment everywhere I check for them is out of stock even for a complete frame kit not sure what's going on?
@@The_Butcher-k31 No clue. Go try it. I honestly do not understand why this line of questioning is even happening. These are guns people! Quit trying to jerry-rig firearms with parts not intended for use in them.
Glad you decided to get one and do a build. It came out great. I think the PF940 frames look pretty good, but these are a major improvement. I've heard people say the PF940 frames are "ergonomic", but they're just a brick in my hands. I think they're terrible in that aspect. Although I haven't held one of these yet (just found out about them), I can tell by looking at them that they're a hell of a lot better to hold on to. I hope there's not an excessive gap between the frame and slide. I would hate that. If you own a set of feeler gauges, I would greatly appreciate it you could measure the gap. As far as the trigger housing, a few people I know use a single layer of scotch tape (either on front or the back curve depending on which is the problem. It's almost always the rear curve). With it being where it is, the tape never falls off or moves at all and it's unlikely to get any cleaning solvent and/or oil on it there... and it's always easy and cheap to replace if it ever does start to come off. So far though I know, no one's ever had to replace the tape on theirs. This was with the PF940 and not the Geisler though. Your fix on the slide lock looks great. I think that's a problem they need to fix also. It was a known problem with the PF940's too, so I'm confused on how they could have missed that when they designed the Geisler. I just heard there was a Gen 2 model out now (just realized this was gen 1)... so I really hope they fixed any problems. Really appreciate the video and I hope you forgive the rant.
I've got a whole video on the Gen 2 and what they fixed as well. Give it a view, I think you'll like what you hear. As for the slide to frame gap, yes, that's one of the things the Geisler is known for. If that's going to bother you, prepare to be bothered Ha!
