Shim your disc rotors to eliminate disc rotor rub when your bike has multiple wheelsets. Simple concept, but saves tons of time. Link to product in this video (affiliate link): amzn.to/4eisHTj Support the channel! www.thebikesauce.com/
GCN Tech covered this as a tip within one of their videos a few months ago. I used to not watch them because they were so roadie focused, but I gotta admit I get a ton of useful information from them with the caveat that the best tips are often buried within videos in their Everest sized mountain of content. They also did not demonstrate how to do it. The benefit of you making a dedicated video for this is that it's easier to find and reference, and that cannot be understated! Keep being awesome!
I was coming to see if someone had asked or answered this, and it's a great tip. Thanks. Just wondering if there's a specific product for it or can I just use anything that fits?
November is/was actually a pretty good custom wheelbuilder in New England. I feel like they’ve been less active lately, but I’m glad to see you promoting their shims. I use them on a few different wheelsets and bikes, and the system works flawlessly. Sometimes I forget that they even are on there and am surprised when I switch to another wheel/bike. Anyway, strong recommend.
World Tour teams have long been doing this for all their wheels. They have set standard size spacing for wheels and calipers to avoid rotor rubs. When swapping wheels.
I have this same issue on my rear second wheel only. I was just getting ready to search for some type of shim, so this is good timing. The Amazon seller must have been hammered with your video as when I looked, they were 3 weeks out from shipping, I found some through Boyd Cycling. Will have them Thursday.
Nice tip, I like it! I've got 4 wheel sets being shared between a 140mm full squish and a rigid bikepacking rig, it took a little while, but I trued the rotors on all 4 to 1 bike and set the caliper on the second bike to the rotors. Has worked well with no rubbing on either bike.
Excellent. Overcame this issue by filing a tiny fraction off inside of the disc rotor,bringing it a fraction closer to the hub..was not aware that split washers were available though.
well made video. I used to do this until I got identical custom wheel sets which really was great when switching 4 sets of wheels between 2 or 3 different bikes same with the cassette. which isn't always 100% flawless but is 99% perfect.
I'm in the process of ordering a new wheelset now. After this.. all other wheelsets I order will use the same hubs. I'm hoping that will allow changes without adjustments. If needed I will also move over the same discs (and cassette) as that's quicker and easier than making adjustments
I've been swapping over whole wheel fork brake and cable as an assembly. Gets me from MTB to dad bike in about 5 minutes. Wish I'd have thought of this before I tracked down a wheelset with the same hubs, would have given me a lot more options.
Rotor shims are great, I got mine off a czech guy on ebay but I hear jagwire does them too nowadays. My technique is to measure the distance from the lockring to the end of the end cap (assuming they're using the same lockring), the difference being what you need to shim. You can also do the same with cassettes for your wheelsets/turbo trainer. Some people will put up with having to adjust the tension/limit screws everytime they put the bike on the turbo, but not me...
1. Aim for thinner shims. You probably need less than you might guess. 2. Try a bearing (engineering) supply shop. You might get more choice and spend less than with online / bike stores.
Could they easiest way to put the right number of spacers be to see how many of them you can slip without friction in between the caliper pad and the disk at its closest point (of the wider gap side) ?
November is not an “Amazon brand” (at least they didn’t used to be…). For their wheelsets, their build quality is exceptional. I have two of their wheelsets, and have rarely, if ever, had to true them!
Holy cow, i needed this video a couple months ago. I got a new wheel set that was slightly off my old, couple figure it out so had to take it to the LBS for them align across my wheels. Both back and front were off and longest time, i tought i messed up the set up being my first time tinkering
I have QR, not thru-axle frame and fork, and I have rotor rubbing every time I swap a wheel but I stopped caring about it because its easier than to readjust my pads every time.
I opted for two wheel sets with hubs by the same manufacturer. My bike came with Bontrager wheels which had rebranded DT Swiss hubs. Thus my second set of wheels had DT Swiss hubs and no shims required to align anything.
I have Bontrager Aeolus on rebranded DT360 24sp straightpull and other set built on DT360 28sp J-bend and while with cassettes it's almost plug and play (different size cassettes so maybe that's why small barrel adjustment makes it work better), with discs it as a huge difference for both wheels. Rotors are MT800 on other and RT800 (or whatever is the new unified version called) on Bontragers, need to swap rotors out of curiosity if it is rotors or hubs themselves
Yes totally worth it. Hate having to adjust discs when swapping wheels. Adjusting pads on cable discs is easier of course and it's another argument to #savetherimbrake 😎
I've got this with a pair of Hunt wheels and another pair with Bitex hubs (brilliant by the way). They are very nearly right, so when I change the wheels, I just open up the gap between the pads a touch with a plastic blade so it doesn't gouge the pads. I think it's not a bad idea to do this anyway as it keeps the pistons moving freely
If one wheel set is CenterLock and the other ISO 6 bolt, and the Centerlock is already pushing the rotor outward farther, do you have to find 6 little shim washers for the ISO wheel? I assume so...
I used to work in a shop where we'd assemble different wheels and bikes for customers. Here in Zürich it's not uncommon that customers get a bike and buy 3 or 4 different wheelset with it (aero, climbing, training and maybe something else too) we've only worked with those shims (on the disc and cassette) because getting the same hub isn't going to cut it. We've worked very closely with dt swiss (best hubs in the game) and they couldn't provide us with wheels where the same 180 or 240 hub model in a different wheel would have the same exact tolerance. If you really want to make it right, then you have to adjust each wheel and check for the recommended torque on the axle as well.
In theory....But I spent the money to do that, (Chris King Hubs to match my existing wheelset) and the rears are the same, but the front's are slightly different. Ended up using sand paper on one of rotors to make it work.
Takes just as long for me to adjust the caliper than to put shims in,maybe faster,loosen 2 caliper bolts ,sqeeze brake & tighten 2 screws,washers are like take the looong route around the corner
Did you just weigh a shim? I'm a mountainbiker, slowly getting attracted to the road, but some things I'll never understand I'm afraid haha. Good tip though
Cassette spacing bugs me more. I have enough pad clearance that rotors never rub. They do deflect a tiny bit when braking but its nothing that warps my rotors so I don't care.
I'm trying to figure out why the rotor rubs on 2 different wheels. Do they have different hub or are the tolerances that far off? I had 2 sets of wheels for my fat bike, but I never had to adjust my caliper or rotors, just swap and go.
That has to be the biggest markup of a product i have ever seen:D Right next to the air filter of my refrigerator that has 5 grams of activated carbon in it and costs 20 bucks if youre stupid enough to buy it:D
0.25mm sounds too big. The pad clearance on shimano is usually in the region of 0.25 mm per side. For sram it's less. Also if the caliper is not absolutely perfectly centered, you will get rubbing with sprinting or riding out of the saddle when the frame is flexing. Buy standard 0.1mm adjusting washers and split them diy.
Fun fact: calipers have a degree of self-alignment. So unless the difference is over a whole mm and makes the rotor rub agains caliper body itself, shims are not necessary. One or two firm presses on a brake lever and pads find their place.
No. First, only one, not any: you need only particular diameter. Second, it is a standard for bolt washers, they are simply too thick.On top of having too big of an outer diameter. Shim rings are DIN 988
@@redkeyspoke Yes (across my 5 wheel sets). Adjust your brake cable with your widest rims and barrel adjuster all the way in. Then use the barrel adjuster when using your narrower wheels.
