great tutorial Jared. Very clear. I have had my Xrite for a long time but never did a dual-illuminate profile. I need to get it done and your video inspired me to do it once and for all.
I'm new to this and on my first try I noticed something that might be worth noting even if it might be obvious. I set my color checker in bright sunlight on a yellow ceramic table at the card angle the top and bottom black rectangles of color checker are different colors in the resulting shot so this leads me to consider reflective light when doing this ( or maybe they are just different colors).
For sure the color of the light falling on the 24 patch ColorChecker Classic is going to affect the white balance setting for the photo. VERY good point and thank you for making that clear. We appreciate your feedback.
Hi Jared, There is a gap in all Passport Photo 2 tutorials. I'm a product photographer and I use Canon 5D Mark IV with a set of strobe lights. I calibrate my monitor every 30 days. So far I lost five projects because of color management issue (I'm 24 years in product photography business). Example: 1,900 samples of fabric, 200 table cloths, 2 projects with carpets and one with the tiles. I took a shot of my color checker passport, then I created the profiles. Next I click on Profile Browser on my Lightroom 4 Classic version 2019...and here is the problem: I need to use my bare eye to find which profile is "good enough". This is not what my client expects from a PRO. Shame on me: the client takes a shot with the cell phone and shows me perfect colors on his phone. Of course both - camera and it's monitor are on the same mobile and perfectly match. So I give the client great explanation instead of great product. Is there any solution to this problem?
Hi Jared, thank you for the tutorial. I frequently shoot in natural light with the sun shining through trees/leaves creating a mixture of direct and indirect light in my subjects. In this case, would you create a profile based on the indirect, direct or both light sources?
Is profile created dependent only on the camera and lighting conditions? What about the effect of lens being used, especially when creating mater profile?
Excellent tutorial, Jared: thank you very much. I also have a Passport Colorchecker Video for my video editing. Does Calibrite have a tool to create a dual-color preset for Final Cut?
you say to get great colour across every shot, that I ever shoot from any camera......does that include wildlife in every scenerios too? , thanks learned alot!
Questions - If shooting interiors where do I place my colour checker passport? The scene will have different amount of light say near the window compared to a sofa that is far away from window. Or contrasty scene if it is backlit.
in a pro setting I would use auto realistically most real estate gigs want fast & cheap as long as things look similar & pretty they don't appreciate images like we do. your moving slow if your using a color checker imo. unless you have time n the money is worth it
Jared -- THESE ONLINE TUTORIALS never seem to match up with what happens here when I try to follow along. Prompts are slightly different, results of hitting a given button are somewhat different, on and on. If I use a Rogue ExpoDisc for "perfect" white light, have I bypassed the issues that the ColorChecker addresses? With 18-percent light going into my camera, it seems the resulting images and colors would be "perfect" at that point. I have the ColorChecker, the ExpoDisc and Lightroom, but Lightroom always seems infernally complicated. Any advice...? Many Thanks! --K.O.
When he applied the dual illuminant profile all colors changed substantially. I dobt it is possible to use the dual illuminant across different light sources.
I thought the same: a shadow can be red, yellowish, or green through the leafs. That should give different results. Furthermore, I sometimes shoot with different cameras (Fuji, Nikon, Sony), where all images should have consistent colors in the end. That's why I need a colorchecker image for every set for every camera. Doing this is very powerful: you cannot tell which image was taken with which camera. It simply works. Furthermore - he does not explain why his dual-technique does not work in Capture One and why.
You said that all images coming to Lightroom will have the profile and your standard setting applied. That profile is for daylight. What if you are importing images from a dance floor? Or from a more dodgy lighting? These will still be applied right? How do you go about this?
I just did exactly what he said - a photo in sunlight and a photo in incandesant light shot RAW, and the Master profile came out completely wrong. Any help/ideas Calibrite?
Is there any video that shows the difference between using a profile created with dual luminance method and the other under the same lighting conditions? Ta
Help me...you're making a profile for the Canon 5DM4 but don't the lenses add their own subtle twist to the colors recorded by the body? If so, what then? I'm guessing, just shoot the Passport each session with the body/lens used and go from there. Thank you.
I'm trying this and not having any luck. I can't get past the "Export" then select the X-Rite plugin. I've downloaded X-Rite's software, created a camera profile from photographed color charts. The files it creates are .dcp which are grayed out in Lightroom Classic. No idea why. Any suggestions would be appreciated. All this effort is in an attempt to shoot interiors with mixed lighting; daylight & incandescent and/or LED. It seems the new sensors are far more sensitive. I'm using a Lumix s5IIx. My old Canon 5d seemed more forgiving.
can xrite please come up with a tutorial using canon dpp? Xrite states that the CC passport photo 2 is able to b use with dpp. so pls show us how. i been trying to figure out how but had not been able to. not all of us are pros. we r hobbyists that do not need the added stress. we just wanted something straight forward, to the point. an easy workflow. Xrite can have people doing webinars for using CC with LR, adobe, Capture1, but not with dpp which is a free software that come with all canon cameras. u r missing out on a big market here.
Hi Ben, This video may help: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-K0EcS5NK6_4.html. If you need more assistance, our support team is happy to help. Just fill out this form to open a support ticket: www.xrite.com/contact-us/contact-us-form
Hi Jared. Thanks for the great Video! One question about the Process: Is it necessary to take a shot for the Whitebalancing and adjust the Camera to the right Color Temperature before the Calibration-Shot? Greets from Germany, Mario
Not if you are shooting raw. If you are shooting JPEG in camera or if you plan to switch to video during your still shoot then by all means do a custom white balance in camera.
Can someone give a more detailed answer on how to set the WB for tungsten, daylight and shadow? Obviously, if I use tungsten for tungsten light I neutralize my colour but that is not what is wanted here.
Hello I want to create a dual illumina profile dla sony a7R3a Should one photo be taken for an incandescent light source for wb (white balance) incandescent setting? Should I take a second photo for the shade light source whit wb (white balance) shade setting? Should both photos incandescent and shadow be taken with white balance the AWB setting? I take landscape photos with the white balance set to AWB. How to take both photos correctly? -for AWB or white balance settings: shade and incandescent in body? Thank you for your answer Sebastian
Our skilled technicians would be happy to help with these questions. Please open a support case to ensure that you receive timely and accurate information. calibrite.com/raise-a-support-case/
I have a question, creating the dual_Illuminate camera profile, will auto color correct my images, or will I still be needing to use the target for color correct my images?
I do it after I apply the profile. Sometimes I do it before as well so I can see how much and where the colors shift but I always do it again after applying the profile.
Thank you for your great tutorial. I have a question about lenses, because no one has ever mentioned the different color effect of different lenses. I am very curious about this subject. ı have one camera body, but ı have many different lenses. Zoom, tilt shift, wide, normal vs. My question is, should ı create a profile for every each lens, under different light conditions?. For example, for 70-200 lens, should ı create a profile under day light conditions , studio flash, or tungsten light conditions. Thank you ıf someone answer to my question.
This is much later after your question. I received a one on one tutorial from an X-Rite training representative and her answer to that would be yes. Create a profile for each lens. Particularly she mentioned that the European and the Asian manufacturers have different chemisty in the coatings they apply, plus the number of coatings applied varies from lens to lens, and so on. For her personal photos she has created profiles unique to each lens/camera combination she uses. When she returns from a trip, all the image files from the SD card get batch processed while she goes and does something more relaxing than watch a computer.
Will this master profile work with golden hour? Or should I just make a profile for that type of light (or does it fall under daylight?). Thank you for the video, I’ve been on the fence to purchase this tool, this has helped me make a better informed decision.
David141071 Using the ColorChecker completely neutralizes the colors and eliminates color casts. If you calibrate for a shot at golden hour, the picture will no longer be golden. It will look as if it were taken in regular daylight. The way to keep the golden hour look and still color check is to take your calibration photo at high noon or with the sun overhead, create your profile from that, and then wait and take your actual pictures at golden hour. That way the color shift caused by golden hour, the difference between sunlight directly overhead and the sunlight at golden hour, will still be present in your images.
Ok dude... you cant us that same calibration for every photo from now on. That calibration is for that specific lighting situation. You need to calibrate for every photo shoot you do that has a different lighting scenario. Take for instance, if you are photographing in shade. You need to recalibrate. Your camera reads color differently in different lighting situations.
Very true James, unless you happen to be in a studio with light constant from hour to hour and day to day. This is a massive help to studio photographers.
Unless you make a Dual Illuminate profile that includes multiple lighting sources. This option is only available for DNG (.dcp) profiles and certainly not for ICC profiles. Will the Dual or Master profile be as good a one made for a single light source? You be the judge. We would love to hear your thoughts and thanks for the comment.
@@Calibrite Just pause this video and compare 7:30 and 7:35 how do you explain the visible colour difference between the sun light and dual illuminant profile. One profile has to be off by a lot.
I spend $100 on Photo Checker 2 and it is garbage. The result with daylight and white box is not even close. I’m using Fuji with x-trans sensor which comes with a different raw format, maybe that’ could be an issue. The PRO Neg Std profile did significantly more accurate colors representation. Soft is also looks like it from the previous century. Maybe I’m doing something wrong but after few attempts during a year I want only to get rid of this useless thing.
Once you choose between two light sources trying to get an average for "most" other pictures, you've just destroyed the idea of getting exact color matching and instead entered imagination lol For the most part the tutorial is good, even if you want to skip perfection and just get best possible match for almost any lighting without having to spend a great amount of time/setup each time.
Yet again, you are ONLY showing me how to use your product with software that I have to RENT from Adobe. I do not like to RENT my software. I like to own it. Therefore, I don't use Adobe products. Until you show me how to generate an ICC profile WITHOUT using Adobe software, then I will not be buying your products.
Hi Grant, what editing program do you prefer to use? We do have some videos on how to create and apply profiles in Capture One, like this one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--zMHJtAUq90.html
@@Calibrite I use Affinity Photo. I've already gotten a response from your tech support on your website. Your software isn't going to work directly with Affinity Photo. However, Affinity Photo can apply standard ICC profiles. Therefore, you guys need to start giving more "airtime" to discussing and explaining what I'll call the "Tiff workflow." You need to stop pretending that everybody is going to be doing everything using a Photoshop plugin. And start showing people how to generate an unmodified/no-profile TIFF file using various programs, and then how to import that TIFF file in your standalone profile generator. If a particular photo editing program does not have appropriate features to export an unmodified TIF file, then you should also show how to do so using free and open source software. I shouldn't have to spend $180 a year to RENT a program just for exporting TIFF files. And yet, all of your videos pretend that all of us are either going to have Photoshop or Capture One. You are therefore causing a large number of people to believe that they can't make use of your product, because they don't want to spend that extra money for Photoshop or Capture One. Now, if you want to continue cutting into your sales numbers, I guess that's up to you. If I wasn't a former network manager, I probably would have given up on The idea of using your products a long time ago.
even with the specialist software, it can still b pretty useless if xrite is not showing u how to use it properly. for lack of a proper workflow. they sucks on educating. i had to watch so many videos b4 i can piece them together. it is like a f..... jigsaw puzzle.
Towards Colors And Color checker card. My concern is that these colors are so industrialised to match the real specific color and her light nuances on location. Therefore, I thInk, colors and white balance will Not represent the actual REAL Image. All REAL color cast and nuances in light in color Will be overruled by this checker card & Color will become monotone, the checker card is leading and therefore the same for every picture. But I have not tried it so I do not know. Anyway That is what I feel after watching multiple video’s on this topic.
I think you are right. What I do: after color correction with the colorchecker I check if the resulting image represents the intended scene: is it so green? Is it so warm? From there I adjust colors to match my intensions. But the "true" colors may be a good starting point. The other use of the color checker is if you or two or more photographers shoot with different cameras the same scene: Fuji, Sony, Nikon. When you need a consistent color through all the images colorchecker is a valuable tool and simply works!
