Thanks Mark. I always learn a lot. There was a slapper in the box of body work tools I bought. So it’ll be fun to see you figure that out and learn from you! Great technique of sanding the inner face to find the high (low) spot to put the dolly (or wood). I’ll definitely use that.
You scored a nice set Robert. I am working on making a slapper now plus Harbor Freight has a Maddoxx set with one in it plus a hammer I have been wanting so I will get that as well. I am sure it will be a learning experience for sure. Mark
I like your technique i just bought a 67 lemans which is why the video caught attention a lot like i was planning on doing to mine i have some slappers i will use all bought but my favorites are from an estate sale where the gentleman had made them just feel better when using than the store bought ones i also use the thicker cutting boards as backers and hammer faces that help.a lot good luck with your build i will be watching yours thanks
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication I agree Mark, the weather has been perfect here. Too much going on with work currently, plus my daughter is in town for a couple more days. Hopefully January will be a good month to get busy.
Thanks for the video Mark. This makes me glad my 53 3100 doesn't have flat panels. When you first hit it with the long block I thought OMG. People say how can a restoration cost 100K? Well this is why. You are doing a great job. I'm looking forward to the next video.
Me too! I knew it wasn't pristine but I didn't think it was that bad. Sighting down the panel it really is straight with good shape but it does have some issues we will work on little by little. The bed sides on that 53 are flat as plate glass so you have some small areas to worry about. Hopefully it isn't to dinged up. Mark
I bought a new original gauge bed and tailgate from Jim Carter trucks. Hopefully is pretty flat. Now I'm going to have to have to check it out. @@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Should be fine I am sure. Straightening the fender flange so it sits flat against the sides without pulling at the bolt holes is super important on those.@@lazyhoundracing9621
I need to widen the rear fenders so I can fit an 11.95" tire in them. My class requires less than a 12" slick. I don't like wheel tubs.@@FoothillPaintandFabrication
Mark thanks, nice work as always and some good tips! Slapping spoon would work on those large and small areas. That large dura block is a thumb up for Santa.
We can learn a lot from the paint-less dent removal folks. You should pick up a reflective or lighted line board and some plastic knockdown down tools and give it a try on the high spots. Could also try a cold glue system with a slide hammer on the low spots. Those guys are experts at perfecting a panel and I see no reason those techniques won’t work on a bare metal panel. When I watch a skilled PDR technician take out dents, they make us look like cavemen with our “picks and files.”
I couldn't agree more Stephen. I did try the hot glue pucks but they don't hold on bare steel like paint. Also remember that you never see the PDR guys working on a classic car or truck, only late models with 20 to 22 gauge sheet metal or aluminum. You can move that stuff with your thumbnail. I watch their videos often to help me improve my own skills and it has helped a ton. Mark
Hi Mark, great video, I really like the leverage arm idea. I'm just about ready to start body working my car, I'm installing a Hotchkis TVS suspension package, right now. Quick question, at what stage is it important for the car to be sitting on it's wheels? I was thinking in the metal working stage, but maybe it's just in the primer blocking stage? What do you say? Thanks.
Thanks Ron. Ruby is sitting on a cart attached to four points at the body mount locations so I could work her all the way to paint on the cart. Of course door alignment/fender alignment is not possible so she does need to go back on the chassis for that. The main body can be worked to a point where you need to get doors and fenders aligned and sweetened up but after you are sure they all fit well you could take it the body back off and continue your work. Ruby will be on and off the chassis/cart/rotisserie a few times I imagine. If you plan on painting with the car jambed out prior to painting and then put it all together for final paint then it needs to be on the chassis. Ruby will be painted in pieces and then assembled. Did that answer your question?
If you got a planishing hammer I think that you could do much better and quicker job than some of the tools that you are actually using. You will be shocked how good you can get it with a planishing hammer, and if you watch some training videos you can get really good results. The concept is to have as little filler as possible.
I have watched several guys using a planishing hammer and it seems to work awesome. Have you ever seen them show the panel they planished go to primer and paint? I never have, they never seem to go beyond metal work so we never get to see how well it came out. Mark
