I really appreciate you making this video, but when you get into Manual Operating Mode it's hard to follow you. It's might just be me, but you kinda jump around a bit. I was able to get a custom profile for battery power but not battery power. Could you please write a pinned comment with the settings you use or recommend? Also how did you get the full keyboard as a floating window? When I set it to Traditional it locks to the bottom of the screen.
When you have it plugged in to 65W or above charger you will have access to 30/43/53 For that mode I would set manual to 30/30/53 for max performance (be sure to set a fan curve) When plugged in/docked to an unofficial dock you will have access to 25/30/35 I would set this to 25/25/35 When unplugged: Either run 15/15/25 for a performance mode Or run 18/18/30 for an unplugged "overclocked" experience. It should automatically switch to your last used mode while plugged in at 65 below and on battery. Each "mode" will have its own manual profiles to make. For anything below 15W I would test that on a game by game basis. Edit: hit send too early. Hope that helps, let me know if you need anymore help/explanation.
@@WinDeckTech What's your rationale behind, what effectively amounts to, outright eliminating the two-minute SPPT window? Wouldn't that ostensibly leave a chunk of compting/gaming performance on the table each time the APU entirely omits to boost up to 43W for a two-minute window of time?
Because I find that with that 2 minute boost window, It will boost up to 25W(or whatever you set it to) for that two minutes. However, once it comes down to its sustained it does not appear to ever boost back up to that 25W mark. Effectively what happens is you launch your game, play it for a bit while getting decent fps then once the boost period is over, it goes back down to your max sustained and performance will drop because the APU isn't getting the same watts. Whether this is by design I don't know, I can't imagine it would be. However, I find at least this way, you know that your 15w mode will always put out 15w instead of 15-20.
Could you make a tutorial on how to install Auto TDP? Ive seen several people on discord using it and some youtube channels with great performance and lower watt for better battery life. You gained a subscriber!
Huge fan of discord. I’d be happy to help mod it and set it up for you. I’m a huge ally fan and tweaker and I’m Known in the community on other ally discords.
That'd be awesome! I would greatly appreciate that. I've tooled around with it before but not too heavy into moderation/bots etc. If you want you can send me an email or message me on discord Dokjenkem Just start it off with hey from RU-vid.
I love your videos, been considering getting one of this myself but im curious of the Ally performance with productivity software (like Adobe suit, Blender, Unity, and UE5) because i dont have a PC, and this seems mobile enough for me to bring than a laptop. And there's no other video i found about this as well. Have you tried doing this on the Ally?
I've not tried to run any software like that on it. I know there are some people who use it as a laptop replacement. I couldn't see why not, I would just expect it to thermal throttle potentially during blender renders etc. I'll see about getting blender and doing a simple render of something to show perf.
Hello! Thank you for the great video, super helpful :) One thing I can't figure out is the "Connected Device" box in the Armory "Content" section (for wallpaper, etc) is not on my Ally. Is there something you need to do get it there? Thanks again!
I installed the Ghost Spectre version of windows 11 on my steam deck, saved a ton of space and ram, not sure if its something that would work on the Ally though
Great vid. No matter what I do my ally is constantly freezing when navigating through steam, browsing the web, or going through folders. I have everything updated. I’ve even tried cloud restore. Not sure what else to do
Nothing official, I haven't had time to tool around with it fully. However if you want a quick setting suggestion, which I have used as well to good results. I recommend Timo's @Deckverse golden 40 settings. Found here, at the end of the Golden 40 Showcase section ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XJ4uPLZ2-Jw.html However, I recommend watching the whole thing as it is a good video nonetheless. Hope that helps!
@@Patrick-tw7nr absolutely, I suggest loading up your favourites and just tinker with it. Change your tdp, resolution refresh rate etc and dial it in for each game. If you just want straight numbers comparison, use RDR2 bench, Cyberpunk bench, shadow of the tomb raider bench, Fortnite is a good one as well with the replay feature. Try to throw in some lighter games and obviously emulation if you're into that.
Sometimes it bugs out for me as well. I find making sure the game is fullscreen (not windowed borderless etc) helps. Edit: on the flip side you can download RTSS and instil an FPS cap through there. Although, you shouldn't have to.
Have you done anything settings wise? Or it just happened randomly? Check under device manager and see if you have Xbox 360 game peripherals at the bottom or under Human interface device see if you have hid compliant game controller. If not, I would assume going to myasus(or their website) and downloading their drivers manually may fix it. Worst case you can go to the system restore point and pick a point in which it saved before it started to happen. I assume restarting the device does nothing?
