Disassembling the Gigabyte G32QC Monitor and fixing its (partially not working) backlight. For me the problem was actually just a bad connector wire between the controller board and the LED board.
@@David-lk8ut finally sold my faulty monitor last week for £20. Never buying anything gigabyte ever again. If you have this same issue your monitor is totally Fxxxxed. Nothing will save your monitor from the E waste. Once that screen goes blackit’s never coming back.
Such a great monitor but plagued by this issue, started intermittent for me and finally went out for good 😭 many thanks for the tips and simple solution, that got it working again 👍
Spoke too soon.. a couple hours later the issue returned... I recently tried to replace all the capacitors on the board and did not change the situation. I am going to look at the ribbon cables next.
@@haberda123 have you found a led strip compatible? Do you know what pannel they used? I found on Ali exp, but not sure if compatible - 10pcs x 32 inch LED Backlight Strip Replacement for VESTEL 32D1334DB VES315WNDL-01 VES315WNDS-2D-R02 VES315WNDA-01 11-LEDs 574mm
Thank you so much for this video ! My G32QC is 2y 10 month old today. Started having the same issue, but not definitive. Looks like it's only happening when it's hot. Maybe a capacitator is dying I assume then. Or maybe should I just clean the inside that I never cleaned before. I wish you showed how to remove the back panel as it seems more complicated than it looks.
i completely fucked the screen by putting my screwdriver right through the delicate screen cables when popping off the back panel, wish you had gone more into depth with the disassembely process
Thanks a lot for the feedback! To me it was especially annoying since it happened soon after the warranty ended (and I've read that many people had also backlight issues). I expected that one of the capacitors would be broken, but it really was just this stupid cable.
So far the best video to come veeeeery close to my problem when its not even the exact same. My Monitor is 2 1/2 years old now and left side same issue. But i dont think i can fix it by myself. -.-* i mean i will write the shop but when they cant or wont do nothing then i search a tech guy like you and a few offers from repair shops but when nothing is effordable then i give it a try... but 1 question... you put brand new cable in there? or was everything inside already what you have shown. i wish it were more detailed ... but good work for sure
Had this problem after 2yr 3 months. The back part is harder to get off than it seems. Pulling up from the bottom helped. It wanted at first to pull the entire back off with the way the top housing tabs are inserted at an angle, it holds fast if pulled from top. You can break the plastic (Which I did) and liable to crack screen (which I also did).
I followed this and it didn't quite work for me. It seemed to work for about 15 minutes but then I got the issue once more. A few things to note if you are going to attempt this. First he doesn't show how to separate the actual screen from the backlight. You will need to remove that if you want to get a look at the LED's. After you remove the back plate like he shows in the video there will be some screws on the under side, I believe its 5 screws. and you'll know you have the right ones if you see some blue thread locker on the screws. Undo those screws and youll free the screen from the housing. The screen will also need to be removed in a similar fashion to the back plate. Use a small flat head or your fingers to roll the edge over the sides. Theres a few little humps that the housing clips onto. Once you've done that there are a couple small pieces of tape holding the board to the housing, remove the tape from the board and you can remove the connector that goes from the screen board to the main board. Its a simple ribbon cable, I removed it from the main board side as that was easier. You can now remove the screen. (Note: if you accidentally shift the layers of the screen its okay. Mine shifted and I removed all the layers except for the screen itself and replaced them one by one in the correct orientation.) The way I used to expose new wire was by using a torch, and a razor used for construction. The method he described of using an eraser didn't work for me, and I also tried scraping the wire bare with a razor blade but I just ended up damaging more cable. I heated up the razor really hot and pinched the razor on top of the wire between the razor and an oven mitt. (my oven mitt is kinda trashed now so just be weary of that) essentially i melted off the entire plastic cabling and was left with just exposed bare copper wire. I then hot glued the wire to the existing blue tab that was on the cable initially to provide support. It is very important that if you do this you make sure you glue the wires PERFECTLY STRAIGHT onto the blue tab so the wires make proper contact. After the glue dried I connected the cable into the housing. Unfortunately I didn't get an end result that worked perfectly but thought i'd jump in here with some help for those who aren't very savvy when it comes to tearing down electronics. Let me know if you have anymore questions.
As mentioned in the video, I did remove the front of the screen, but during the process I damaged the data cables (and also some plastic parts of the housing). That's why I recommended to only remove the back. I thought it should be possible to fix the power problem without opening the front part of the screen.. If you say it's not, then it might be more work and I hope people can do it without breaking their monitors like I did. So thanks a lot for adding your information and experience here!
No problem! But yes, to be able to completely view the inner portion of the housing with the LED’s such as the way you had it the screen does need to be completely removed. It can be done without damaging the screen itself it just takes patience and knowing when to use force to separate the housing from the frame and not using too much force as well. No matter what I tried I did end up damaging the housing with the pry tool I was using however it’s minimal damage. I believe the damage happens because it’s pretty much just cheap plastic. Anyways you provided a great introductory tear down video. Thanks!
@@abennetsen I don’t have the part number for the LEDs, that was my problem too. I would say contact gigabyte support but you’re likely not gonna get any help there, the support side of gigabyte is pretty trash. I’d honestly just try to find something 3rd party with comparable specs.
@@drew420prado I did reach out to Gigabyte support here is what they said: Dear Valued Gigabyte Customer, I am sorry I do not have a parts list and our RMA/Customer Service would not be able to provide such either. Thank you. Best regards, GIGABYTE Tech Support Team Would you know the spec's of the led arrayr cause I donit want to decase the screen unless I know that I have the part to replace it.
If you have connector problem you are lucky. In my case it was one of the leds. I bypassed the broken led and minimized the brightness problem. Disassembling was more challenging, but easier than some notebooks or phones.
I unsoldered the broken LED and connected the pads with solder. The LEDs are connected in parallel and there are quite a lot of them, so they have withstood the higher current so far. Of course, you can see a little dark area above the removed led , but is not noticable in games.
@@MartinDimovCZ Took me some googling. But i understand now. So you 'physically' bypassed, broken led by soldiering over it and creating connection so rest of the strip will work. (if just one led doesnt work, entire strip wont function , like electric circuit) I tried googling to find spare entire led strip, just in case for future, but everyone is out of stock. Are u verse in electronics ? You said it "withstood the higher current so far", what are possible implications in future by bypassing led? P.S yeah , small darker spot is not a biggy , better then entire 1-5th of the screen
There are 4 pieces of strip in 2 channels. The darkness you see before fix attempt is probably 1 of 4 strips not working and significant part of screen is black. And this make it unusable. I didn't study electronics and it doesn't make me a living, but I have some experience. Bypassing 2 or 3 leds very probably won't be anything dramatic. I'm more worried that another LEDs will go away over time. But if we can't get a new LEDs strip, there aren't many other options. This monitor can no longer be considered reliable even after the fix. I personally bought a new one and passed this one to my wife. Everyone is happy now, at least for now :)
@@MartinDimovCZ Hello! Thank you for all your info it was invaluable! I have one more question if you dont mind? When you bypassed that led, did you notice that strip got brighter compared to other strips? After reading even more about it , it would indicate that eventually it could burn out due to increased power flow (if they got brighter). In that case i would need to do more digging to get proper resistor to prevent future burnout
They have an issue with backlight power distribution, a firmware patch was supposed to help but its a hardware problem they are trying to fix with software and it did nothing for a lot of people.
@whyiable I have a Gigabyte 32" Monitor G32QC and I need to replace one of the light strips since I have the vertical black bar just to the right of the Gigabyte label meaning one of the LED backlights went out. I have swapped the cables so I know it is not the cables that you show in the video. Can anyone tell me the spec's like voltage etc or send me a picture for the LED backlight strips so that I can order one for my monitor?
I have the same exact problem and it felt real bad spending $100 to ship this in for RMA... This looks kinda daunting but I may take a look and try it out.. Can you make a video explaining better how to fixed those power clips?
What ended up happening with the RMA,I have just returned mine with the same issue and am wondering if they're able to repair or if I can expect a replacement screen.
Unfortunately only with a lot of force and I damaged one of the flat cables in the process. That was the reason why I had to throw it away, even after the backlight was fixed. Better do not use sharp objects on the bottom of the screen, but it is okay to use some force to pull hard.
When there is an issue with the backlight, the reason is usually the power, as it's only simple LEDs. A first assumption was that one of the capacitors on the power supply board was broken, but after disassembling the housing, i didn't see any obvious problems (no burning stains, no "exploded" capacitors, etc). After swapping the connection from the power supply board to the LED board, the same part of the backlight was off. This means that the power from the board powering the "broken part" was good enough to power the other part. Therefore I concluded that the issue was "near the LED board". After checking contacts, i realized that the flex wire looked a bit broken. After improving the connection there, the backlight worked again. Long story short: the wire powering the LED "wasn't connected" properly.
I have this monitor. My problem is that after restarting Windows, the monitor does not show the content. You can see that the matrix is illuminated but there is no content. Disconnecting the power supply for 5-10 minutes allows the monitor to restart. Do you have any idea what's wrong with him? Regards.
Mine has gone in the middle completely. Got is 25th November 2020 (4months after their release). Paid £250 instead of £500 (Black Friday sale). Mine started off intermittent that would work fine if I turned the monitor off and on again. Then Sunday night its gone for good.
@whyiable so did it actually worked for you ? on the long run , 7 months later (today)? I read post below that is worked for him for only 15mins. On my monitor i usually just cycled power and issue was gone, but this morning i turned on monitor and its constant and wont go away..
When opening the monitor to fix the backlight, I damaged the data cables (with the chip inside) and I wasn't able to replace/fix them. So after assembling, I still had to replace the monitor. That means I cannot say if that fix is persistent or only temporary - sorry!
@@whyiable Hello! I told you this morning that monitor got issue i used it today like that for few hours and then i left it off for few hours. I just turned it on again. And issue is freaking gone man? After 15 seconds it reappeared but i turned it off and on again and it disappeared again. Now im confused, it doesnt have that issue right now, whats goin on?
here i am 5 minutes later, monitor is perfectly fine right now. This is so weird. I think i will maybe stop shuting own this monitor lol and setup constant black screen when im off lol
Addendum to this i saw once little flickering, like super fast showing issue in middle of the screen and disappearing 3-4 times in rapid. Even tho now it doesnt show issue, Logical conclusion tells me that as u said either cable is lose, damaged, maybe overcurrent heats cable too much or as some other people mentioned, led needs resoldering, when it heats up it loosens conection, i dont know. I will see to setup screensaver for future instead of shutting it down
Same issue for me, the dim spot moves around, and usually power cycling fixes it. but now its just one spot and cycling no longer fixes it. also 2.5ish years old.
my dimming was first in left mid area from top to bottom then straight left from top to bottom. so the first issue area worked like before... its insane... omfg
Hey an ant got inside my monitor and died I disassembled the entire thing clenaed the panel form inside and assembled it again Now half my monitor is black 😢
If you look at the firmware history, this is an issue with the power supply to the LED's. The fix in the video more than likley did not last, the shortening of the wires likley made it work for a short period of time and then the issue will return (also why people get intermittent issues then failure). The fact that once he fixed on the other side had the same issue is the clue. GIgabyte clearly have a manufacturing/design problem they have just kept quite on, i suspect alot of these are going to be failing around now (those around the 2/3 year old mark). I have contacted Gigabyte but dont expect much back. I wouldnt risk any further damage of your screen here, and raise it with Gigabyte even if your out of warranty And i'd advise anyone looking at buying one to stay clear
same problem here, 5 months after the 3 years waranty expired. Is a POS, ill never buy a Gigabyte product EVER, especially this is such a common issue and they shut up.
