In February 2019, Giuliano made the first ascent of two of the hardest boulders in Ticino, CH: Poison The Well in Brione and REM in Cresciano. VIDEO//EDIT by Sean Morgan
Dude... the second ascent reminds me of a sports psychology lesson I had,..: The "Flow" is a state that an athlete reaches when the difficulty of the task and the athlete's level are extremely high and somehow equivalent... he must also be in a very favourable mental state, and so on.. At that moment, flow occurs and he kinda switches to beast mode : all movements seem very easy, as if it were on autopilot. small errors are corrected extremely quickly, the focus is 200% and the athlete feels a deep sense of well-being. Strangely enough, he also feels a time distortion effect (some tennis players, runners had the impression that a 4-hour effort is spent as 20 minutes or stuff like that)... In short, it is the ultimate state sought by all very high level athletes, and I have the impression that you were clearly in the flow on this ascent...which explains the "like in a dream" sensation haha. That was truly amazing. Thank you so much for sharing, made my day bro.
I've only achieved that state once in my life. It was during a big mountain freeski comp. It felt like my brain switched off and it almost an out of body experience. I almost collapsed at the finish line when I snapped back to reality. Crazy shit!
For sure this is one of the real goals of this "sport". I climbed few years ago, here in Slovakia nice crimpy boulder in this state of mind and named it "Flow" without knowing that somebody could also feel it this way.
Many times in my life I experienced this "flow state" when playing hockey, and I would lose all auditory sensory. It was quite an experience to be so in the moment and so intesely focused that you lose your sense of hearing.
What a sick send. God damn, I am so relieved to see videos like this. Climbing has gotten so polished, sanitized, color-coordinated, and accessorized over the years. Yeah it can be grand and beautiful but it can also be grotesque and offensive and I love it. Bunch of bros stewing in dirt and filth for days, scraping and crawling around in dark, wet, and slimy holes screaming out anger and obscenities at failure and physical pain. All for fleeting moments of something so indescribable that it makes it all worth while and motivates going right back to do it all over again. Again and again and again. Mellow is a much needed reprieve. Thank you so much for making these vids guys, they are so much more real and feel so much more true to the community as I have always known it to be at heart. Keep it up!
Some thoughts on Robinson's downgrade of REM to V14 and his comments on Giuliano's inflating grades? Seems weird to think it being done on purpose since Poison the well is a confirmed V16 (plus the incredibly hard repeats Giuliano has achieved)
I noticed the first problem had moss all around it, did you guys clear moss for the problem? How do you go about clearing moss the best / most conservative wast?
If you saw this guy at the pool without a shirt on you would never think that he's actually a world class athlete... I mean come on - the dude isn't shredded or ripped. Looks totally normal and skinny. I wonder what makes him so good? Phenomenal finger strength, surely. But I've seen footwork and body tension from Giul that I haven't seen on any other climber besides Ondra. That's why he's so good, IMO.
Was that a flash on REM? They said "first try" in the video after he sent it. Wouldn't that mean this is a V16 flash, also the hardest flash ever done? I feel like I'm missing something because that's insane lol
that second song isn’t very mellow so this video is bad and shouldn’t be on this channel- hi it’s me the guy who thinks Aunt Jemima is actually someone’s aunt, thanks for coming to my TED talk
