Good series! Because some of the "first's" in this hobby can be a real kick in the teeth. I know dinoflagates and brooklynella were the two first's that really tested how much I wanted to participate in this hobby. The first of which set me back nearly a year, and the latter made me break my first tank down completely. Such is life. We learn and live on. Exploring common "frist" challenges sounds like a fantastic idea.
Thank you Matthew, I'm dealing with this right now, and think I'm on the up and up now. I was surprised this could happen in a low nutrient system, but I found I was likely overdosing Red Sea NO3: PO4-X. I've done exactly what you stated, and backed off the dosing to allow my nutrients to rise a bit and dosed beneficial bacteria. I'm finally starting to turn a corner. Would never have figured it out without videos like this from BRS! I'm glad you created a short simple video with all of the info here for new reefers like me, and I'm not the only one who got cyano... 😑 Thank you, thank you! 😊
Adjusting my LEDs to reduce the intensity in the red/green spectrum knocked them out for me. Before that, high flow, keeping lights off for days, and siphoning only reduced how much was around.
I have mass flow in my tank three mp40s and a 90 gallon all turn wide open I have no dead spots I still have cyano in high flow areas. I think you're more on the lines of adding the bacteria . That and the nutrient ratio between phosphate and nitrate.
This is a nice little video, thank you for the great content, overall. I do admit the shots of duckweed floating on the surface of a small pond made me scratch my head a bit. But again, overall this is an effective and educational video.
I found some green slime in my Refugium. Small patch. I only noticed cuz I used a flashlight to look I. There I normally run red and blue leds. Now I’m thinkn of switchn light spectrum to catch things sooner
I've been siphoning out the sections of the sand bed weekly and the cyano comes back. I used a turkey baster to stir up the sand and the cyano has come back. I replace the 100 micron socks twice a week. Sounds like I just need to increase the frequency of stirring the bed and replacing the socks daily. However, in doing all of this am I removing the good bacteria??
why not use chemiclean from the first signs of cyano? is it a cost thing or does chemiclean create issues that no one talks about besides the nutrient spike and drop in oxygen levels? I ordered chemiclean recently and I saw this immediately after adding it to the aquarium. so now I'm wondering if I have made a mistake. I had followed similar steps like increase flow and manual removal.but as soon as I saw some growing on my coral I wanted to knock it out immediately. having manually removed it and increased flow what are the odds it will return after using chemiclean which I'll probably be adding to the water when I dip new corals. hoping the steps I've taken aren't too extreme and will prevent another outbreak. the big one I want to avoid in the system are dinoflagellates. I've tried finding info on avoiding them but sp far all I find is thousands of conflicting methods of getting rid of them. I do run a pretty high nutrient system which a lot of what I read isn't ideal for dinos and has likely been the cause of the cyano. would love to see a video with this information about prevention because as frequently mentioned here prevention is better than the cure.
Matt I have 2 powerheads in my 40 gallon bow front tank. They are about 10” down and pointing at each other. All my rock is in the centre of the tank so I installed them closer to the front of the tank. My nitrates are at zero and no ammonia and PH 7.8, and no nitrites. Is there another way to reposition the powerheads in each side bud, where would you place them? Each one moves 528 gph
Hey Brstv! Would you recommend dosing microbacter7 when my nitrates at 0(salifert) and phosphates at 0.20(hanna checker)? I feed once daily. Kindly advice. Tia.
Awesome Video!! If I’m dosing with Microbacter 7 will I have to take out the carbon in my Fluval 407 canister filter? I was told with Chemiclean I would have to. Love the videos and keep ‘em rolling out!
Ive only done this with freshwater tanks. But a low dose of hydrogen peroxide will desolve the cyano and increase oxygen levels. Too much can crash a tank.
The best fix is to remove all the water. Dry out everything, the rock, sand, fish and coral. Bone dry, sun bleached. Then ask yourself, why didn’t I just wait for it to go away on its own. 🫠
