Giving the 30 Year Old Mazda RX7 The biggest Fuel System I can! 

"just going to be a fun daily with not a lot of power" lmao

Great progress Tanner. Radium recommends 10 awg power and ground wires to the hangers. 14 awg might not cut it. I’m excited for the finish of the engine and to see it in.

From what I've read, break in for rotary is super important. I've seen as high as 1,000-2,000 miles before going for max power / final tune. They build compression over a long time and once you go for those big power numbers, whatever compression the engine has it won't rise anymore afterwards.

I was listening your video on my high end stereo and I have to say I really appreciate the quality of the music, very nice!

I'm just going to get i back running and whatnot......... full race fuel setup, custom this and that, bridge port, big single slug, v-mount...... yeah, you go T$!!!!

I remember falling in love with the FD on the 1st Need for Speed on 3D0 game system titled "Road and Tracks Need for Speed" which at the time was nearly $1000 gaming system. It was the 1st "sim" of its time and nothing could touch it. Of course I was a broke ass back then and could barely afford a pack of bubble gum. There are a few cars I would like to grab now 82'-87' VW Rabbit/Scirocco 94' FD 87' Ford Merkur XR4Ti 68'-73'' Opel GT ...today was rebabged/remade as the Saturn Sky and Pontiac Solstice

Since you're swaping flywheels, make sure that you find an auto counter weight that matches the rotor weights letters on the gear side of your rotors. Rotors have 5 different weight marks on the gear side. "A-E". "A's are the heaviest while "E"s the lightest. That factory heavy flywheel is actually balanced to that particular engines rotor weights so changing that WILL effect the balance. A lot of newbies just put on light flywheels while not knowing the internal weights of the rotors. Since your engine is already apart, you can source the counter weight from an AUTO engine that matches your rotor letter codes. If you're gonna be spinning this engine high, make sure you find the proper counter weight to match because many aftermarket suppliers just sell the heavy counter weight without any drill holes. Edit: As far as breakin, just take it easy for about 500miles for the seals to break in. Keep the rpms below 5k. These harder aftermarket apex seals will take a long time to bed in vs factory.

So excited to see this thing wake up. Also you can't carbon wrap a rare wing like that! It'll make it look cheap G unit!

Massive progress!!!! Thanx Tanner! 💥💥💥

You have got to love doing this. Hopefully you continue to grow, and get your own shop someday soon. Digging that Westcoast G-funk beat while doing the front A arms. 👌 PNW style baby. When it rains we shine! Cheers!

10:01 I did paint cars for about 7 of my 12 years of body work days, that’s been quite a few years ago I will say. The thing about metallic silver cars is the fact that they almost never match surrounding panels when you paint any new panels. You don’t want it to looks tiger striped or a bad color match on the new pieces, advice from a guy who got out the body shop game in the 2010’s is to do a beautiful wrap on the whole car. You have had great luck with all the wrap jobs you have done and had done.

Yes you should break it in, give it about 4-500 easy miles lighter load and a few oil changes to clean it out. Then compression test and get tuned for power. Compression test again after

I fuxking love these videos , it never gets old 💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽 keep going

Cool to see rotary work

That’s a good question. I never would have questioned if the break in process was different with rotary engines

Beautifully progress good sir

hell yeah man, fd is a dream car of mine. recently sold my STI and got a mustang. so easy to make big power with boost.

Fix the rotary and wait for the LS 4 cylinder by blueprint engines to release and then swap it

Can't wait for the fun rotary noises!

Just remember, before driving let it idle to temp. Always always premix gas no matter if you use the oil injection pump or not. At least hit the redline once a drive.

She's coming along nice!

Wingless is so much cleaner on these cars in my opinion. This is coming from a person who loves the sti, srt4, and old Eclipse wings.

lets gooooooo, cant wait to see this running

It looks like a standard 300hp fuel system to me 😢, nice fd btw ❤

You should watch jimmy Oakes rx7 fc build he just did i feel it could help with some of the questions you have !

Big fuel for big boost!

Sweet thumbnail looks sik af! Awesome video as usaul, thanks dude

Freaking loving this build. I’m curious to see what your paint guy will tell you about re-clearing. I’ve wondered about that on a car I had long ago. Let us know! Thanks for another good vid man.

Whats going on… much respect to the content really educational and informative… part of the reason I joined the Subie family… ? I’m tryn my first timing belt change with ur video in the background of course… but during my frustration.. I turned the lower right exhaust cam socket(driver side) by hand tryn to line up timing marks… which I now learned was supposed to be clockwise did I mess up big time😫 how do I fix.. everything else was lined up… this was wit no belt(2016 sti limited)… thanks keep the content coming

Another good episode 😄 slowly coming together! 😎🔥 @Zac Baldy did a haltech swap in both of his FD's. Guy in Brisbane Australia helped him do it!

🤐 Im just gonna shut up and see Tanner's handy work👍🏼👍🏼

Peep the neon in the garage!!! hehe I’m interested in what that beauty is gonna go through 🤭

Also super hyped for this FD build, as I have said before you learn the hard way and help everyone else. It’s kind of a service soooo everyone should sub to your channel.

Full time professional painter here. I'd be prepared to expect to repaint the entire car. Definitely the flat surfaces like the hood, roof, and decklid. You can really only get away with just re clearing if the clear coat is NOT damaged in any way. All Japanese cars are notorious for very thin factory paint, so once it starts to fail and break down there really isn't hardly anything left to work with

I live down in Oregon and I own 541 Hydrographics, I can hydrodip that wing blade in carbon fiber if you like

As soon as I saw the hammer about to hit that bolt I knew, its not gunna clear 😅

Wiring Specialties is very local to me, and they make amazing products. Can't blame you if you don't want an aftermarket one, but theirs is some of the best on the market. Whenever you get to the transmission, look into a C's shifter kit. An old obscure Japanese company, but if you can source one they're apparently some of the best out there. Aside, finally going to Wicked Big Meet this weekend. And it'll be on my birthday too. You guys have to attend one in the next couple years, I know it's literally directly across the country but I'm sure you'll get big enough in due time for something like that to be feasible.

If I remember right, previous owner was ls swapping? If so, the silver cylinder was a Corvette style fuel pressure regulator. I’ve got one on my ls swapped 68 C10. I’ve got the turn line blocked off at the fuel rail 4:28

The clutch master cylinder went out on my '16 WRX, cost me $700 for install on a $75 part. Ouch!

Ordered me a t. Fingers crossed. Lol phat chance

We all know when he says it's going to be a fun little streetcar it's going to go downhill he's going to add more more power

Rotary Powahh, this girl won't be thirsty for fuel but maybe with Oil issues unless you work your Magic 😏😎

BADASS!!!!!! 😎👍🏻👍🏻

You could put an sti awd drive line would fix the weak diff of the rx7 and you would have a monster awd rotary

Hola amigo, tengo un impreza del 2007 160cv quiero poner manómetro de presión de aceite,donde colocarias el sensor gracias 👍👍

Wonder what the wing would look like with the center blade wrapped in flo green. Would go with the generation of the car

Where did you get your gasket kit?

Got here early for once! LETS GO!!! 🤘🏾🤘🏾

hey smeedia just a heads up rx7 diffs are glass to put it nicely i think it would be wise to invest in a ford 9 in

You did check the tank for cleanliness beforehand right? Hope so. Seems like an honest 1/3 of rebuilds go sideways nowadays with crud in the tank. Unfortunately I have firsthand experience dropping RX-7 FD tanks, and it not "bad" but it's not "fast."

BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP BRAAP. WOOOOOO

Hey tanner I was wondering what torque wrench I should buy and what is that orange torque wrench you use

To the moon↗️

Hurts my soul that you drilled into that hatch.

Hey….do i peep an srt4 in the garage 😏 you holding out?

2:07 is that srt4 work gonna be done on Matt’s channel? Just saying lots of new build for both channels, if there is a way to drop a link for his channel can you plzzz drop a link. I was subbed with the notifications on and I haven’t been able to find any videos, and if there is some srt 4 action I wanna make sure I don’t miss

What braided ptfe line are you using now?

Yes the apex seals need to break in.

I’ve been a sprayer for 12 years. You can totally just do clear coat.

Should'n the fuel line be hidden and protected? Its right under the car ready to hit something. Its not exposed like that on a stock car. Too much work to route it hidden?

@Tanner You gonna keep this ride or sell it when your done?

Heck yeah time for Doritos!

Yes sir

Let me get your hoodie ina size shmeedium

Fathers maiden name, lolz

If this is supposed to be a daily, why did you install 3 fuel pumps and a surge tank? Seems like a waste of money

Pleaseee pop out that dent behind the passenger door! It hurts me every time I see it 🫣

7;08 ull thank me

With spam callers I just wait for them to either say wrong thing then remind them I actually work in the APS in aus gov system (not even a lie), so they are trying to scam a gov official and didn't even hide their number so enjoy it being blocked by service provider (totally a lie as service providers don't care they getting paid from any call). Then they normally never call again haha

💪🥳

Your carrier provider is selling your phone number