GLUE for wooden Shipmodeling 

I'm glad I could help you!

Thank you very much!

Thank you very much!

My pleasure!

My pleasure!

Yes, it is a very toxic glue that also easily causes cataracts in the eyes. That's why I also work in glasses to protect my eyes...

Thanks for the warning! I knew vapours we're not good but didn't know it could damage the eyes.

Дякую! Я рада, що вам сподобалося! Я вже маю окреме відео про фарбування і тонування - воно вкладене у кінцевій заставці або у картках зліва зверху...

@@OlhaBatchvarov Оля а клей titebond з червоною етикеткою добре для зклеювання чи ні? Бо я його використовую а там ще є з зеленою

Не пробувала такого! Якщо він теж водостійкий то можна не хвилюватися! Якщо зелений це ви маєте на увазі Titebind III то його взагалі можна нижче ватерлінії на реальних човнах використовувати...

@@OlhaBatchvarov подивився він тільки для внутрішніх і не водостійкий, куплю потім синій, але думаю що не розвалиться))

Thank you so much 😊 I'm glad you liked it!

Щиро дякую!

Thank you! I'm glad you liked it!

Thank you very much!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you so much 😀

I am glad you liked it!

Yes, CA has such a weak point, even from vibrations, the gluing can crumble... Some modelers build models from paper (cardboard) and impregnate them with superglue for launching on water. So the model turns out to be very light and seaworthy...

Glad you think so!

Thank you! Yes, I have a debonder for softening СA, but it leaves spots and it is not always possible to use it. For example for planks on thehull that are glued with PVA, you can apply a soldering iron pointwise and without destroying the adjacent planks - peel off only one plank and replace it...

My pleasure!

My pleasure! I'm glad you liked it!

Merci!

My pleasure!

Glad you liked it!)))

Ето все водостойкие клея. Только в Европе ПВА стандартизированы как D3 (В3), а в США клас II. Они его приравнивают как D3 но пишут что например для ремонта настоящих яхт его надо использовать над ватрнлинией. А уже Titebind III можно и ниже ватернлинии... Но на моей первой модели построенной в очень влажном климате, через год начало рвать обшивку покрашенной модели, которую я клеила на ПВА D3, а детали склеенные на Titebind II вообще не отреагировали на влажность. Выходит что Titebond II, более устойчив чем ПВА D3 хоть их и прировняли к одинаковому класу водостойчивости...

@@OlhaBatchvarov спасибо за информацию. Я читал, что Titebond III тоже влаго, а не водостойкий, а у меня на полке комплект лежит, на который я хочу радиоуправление поставить и я всё мучался, подбирая клей для него.

Obrigada! Estou feliz que você gostou!

Glad it was helpful!

My pleasure!

You are so welcome

Glad it was helpful!

My pleasure!

Thanks for watching!

Welcome!

The main difference is the Color after drying. Yellowish Titebond is sometimes very visible when you glue small parts. Whereas PVA is transparent and almost invisible - the work becomes much more accurate...

¡Gracias! ¡Me alegra que te guste!

Тогда у вас опьІт по клеям еще больше чем у меня. Я тоже в свое врямя бегала в столярку подсматривать как мебель клеят и красят...

Thank you very much!

Glad you think so!

@@OlhaBatchvarov As having a bad flu at the moment, I have the time to watch many of your vids.😉 Have a successful and good new year. Let's hope for better times. Unfriendly situation at the moment.🇺🇦

Obrigada! Estou feliz que você gostou!

Thank you very much! II is quite enough for the interior. From III you can already build real boats...

Будь ласка!

Obrigada!

Thank you! I'm glad you liked it! I prefer to clamp the parts for 10-12 hours instead of spots with CA glue...

También uso silicona pero esta, necesita para pegar, al igual que la cola vinilica, un peso para que la parte a pegar quede bien pegada y más si es una parte curva

In general, I completely use these packages from chips!)))) Lids for glue or paint, and tubes for planks of different thicknesses and widths...

Quite the opposite. Superglue has a chemical reaction with polyester - the rope is sealed (melts). Yes, CA is absolutely not suitable for cotton ropes. P.S. Try to take a spool of thread and pour CA on it, once the glue sets - touch it (but be careful, it can be very hot, in some cases you can see evaporation due to the chemical reaction).

I have never seen Viсol. Puiduliim is a very strong water-resistant glue. Its price is approximately 10-12 $ for 0,75 liters. And it becomes transparent after drying...

@@OlhaBatchvarov I think it's the same, just diffrent brand names. Vicol also become transparent, water resistant, a little elastic/rubery after drying, can be heated to cure faster or to soften dry glue. Doesn't smell. It's bitter in taste [yes i checked :D ]

Thank you! All descriptions and explanations are in subtitles so that viewers can translate it into any language... That's why at the beginning of the video I write and show a button that subtitles should be turned on!

@@OlhaBatchvarov yes, subtitles are good, but it is much better to watch and listen than watch and read. I like to watch what are you doing, but the information in that video is different, it is sort of review. Audiovisual presentation of that type of information getting "digested" better! 😁

I only imitate metal nails of the smallest diameter. After scraping, the glue only stays in the holes (and as a bonus, it fills the gaps between the planks too)…

CA glue is fragile from the beginning (very strong in tension but does not withstand side impacts and vibrations), that is why I prefer PVA!

@@OlhaBatchvarov very good information. Do you know what kind of glue was used for the old models made hundreds of years ago? Was it a type of pva? Do you know how pva holds up over the years?

​@@diyhometheaterguy I believe it was glues made from animal products

Thank you very much! In most cases, I use a soldering iron. I think I showed some examples in the video FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions). You can quickly find it on the main page of the channel...

@@OlhaBatchvarov Thanks Olha. I've read that other modelers use alcohol or acetone to soften the glue. I'll have to try your method next time.

Also Olha, do plan on a video for the finishing of the Smith shallop? I think it may be my next build.

This is PVA glue with the European D3 standard, and the analogue is Type II here. I once bought 1406 ROBERTS at Home Depot, it says right on the bottle that it is equivalent to D3. Tweezers from the kit that came with the soldering iron, but I also saw them sold separately on Amazon. My ropewalk is self-made. I do seizings with tweezers...

@@OlhaBatchvarov with your info about the glue I did a little search for more equivalent glue products to the puiduliim. I was concerned that the specifications under 1406 Robert’s said it was milky white when cured. I wanted clear. Eurobond is a type II D3 glue and is available at Home Depot and dries clear.

Model expo has a rope walk. It’s a bit pricey though. I’d just make one.

Thank you! I have a debonder for softening СA, but it leaves spots and it is not always possible to use it. For example for planks on thehull that are glued with PVA, you can apply a soldering iron pointwise and without destroying the adjacent planks - peel off only one plank and replace it... As for 2-part epoxy, it is very popular among modelers who make models for sailing on water. I use it very rarely, for example to simulate water with models in a bottle... Polyurethane glue is too complex and powerful, but no one forbids you to use it...

@@OlhaBatchvarov You do a great job. You are a very fine artist. I see you sensed right away, "for models that are sailing on water". Yes, you are correct, probably 70% of what I build is radio control models.... I still though, those rubber cement type products fail on me every time. I can just about set my clock on when the customer will call and say something fell off or failed or broke on the model.... I'm done with rubber cement. I am very intrigued by your desire to possibly take apart the model.... Maybe that's part of being a museum quality builder. I personally am looking to glue it together, and it will still be solid long after I have passed away..... Heh heh heh! To be honest, I really like the thick CA, Titebond III, epoxy, and polyurethane glue. that's 93% of what I use. I'm sure you will be horrified, but I also use hot glue sometimes.... Before you poo-poo that, I have some flat reflectors, that I glued to the round downtubes on the front of my Motorcycle.... I just made a big blob of hot glue, smooshed it onto the downtube, and held it for a few minutes by hand.... That was 14 years ago. They are still there, still perfect. So, blasting freeway highway winds, screaming hot summer days, super cold fall nights, rainstorms, all of it... 14 years, still fine. I wish I was still in as good of shape as I was 14 years ago. Hahahah! Hot glue, also, does not seem to care if it is wet... Of course, that means nothing to you, but in an R/C situation, that matters a lot.... I'm sure you'd be horrified, but... Okay, NOT that these models were on your level. They were not. Your models are SO good, they are off the scale. BUT, I have seen stuff that was up there, really really nice models. I saw a guy put a gorgeous USS Constitution model in the pond, and run it.... Even ME, I was like, dude, stop it, that's like TOO nice to run as an R/C Model.... Obviously the perfect "scale" aspect was not there, the Constitution had an electric motor, to make it sail.... He told me later he was very careful to only run it on water on very calm days... If it was windy, he would either lose control of the model, or the wind would flip it over, with all the full scale sails on it.... Thank you for your reply, that is very kind of you. I love your work. I love what you do. I love your videos. Besides being a genius fine scale modeler, you are a genius videographer and filmmaker, which is quite an impressive set of skills. I learn a lot from your videos. I love to watch really good techs work... It gives you a lot of ideas... Even if it's only 1 thing here or there, it's like, wow, look how they do that... Look at how smart that is... Why didn't I think of that??? So, great job. I look forward to your videos. Best Regards.

А что за казеин? Ето тот клей которЬІй варить надо?

@@OlhaBatchvarov варят глютиновый клей, там жилы и кости.казеиновый делают из творога)))) (только что прочитал) ))) но он очень крепкий.

@@LunaDude43 но тоже воды не любит, и вонючий 😁

Пожалуйста! Там только масло бЬІло на образцах, для реставрации мебели с ореховим оттенком...