all my videos are in 1080p so check that out just an idea on how the GM HEI electronic distributor is wired up thanks for watching and please subscribe
Huge thanks from across the pond! I've just fitted a new motor in my '74 Nova and decided to completely rewire the engine bay. I just couldn't figure out 'BATT' on the distributor cap and bingo you've not only explained it, but given a great diagram as well! Thanks again Chris, I've just hit the Subscribe button.
Thanks Chris, I inherited a 1969 c10 with a newer engine and couldn’t get it started. A mechanic had told the previous owner that he wanted to buy it and after looking at it the truck wouldn’t run. after watching your video you said the battery marking should say ignition. I looked and sure enough, nothing was plugged in. I hooked a jump wire to the battery and hit the ignition and it started instantly. I think the mechanic cut the wire but your video saved me a lot of headache. Thanks
just remember you have an existing POSITIVE coil wire that is NOT 12 VOLTS that comes from ignition.. you need to go on the fuse box like in the video and run a NEW wire ... your truck has a place IGN just waiting for the new wire..
Hi ,i might not even get any answer back but,if i put a 12volt test light from the bat terminal on the distributor cap and the other lead to ground should i get a light when i turn the ignition switch on??
Chris listen buddy long time viewer/scriber yada yada but I need Your expertise because I understand your electrical tutor so here goes my 1966 Chevelle I have done EVERYTHING that you have shown to delete and bypass all is Good 👍 thanks but what do I do with the old point s resistance wire ? I went HEI off of the ign fuse block is stubbing it off cool? I don’t want to butcher the car no more than I did when I was a-teen and wireing harness replacement is just stupid money 💰 thanks
That part you are pointing out to identify, is very important, called the "vacuum advance". It's purpose is to advance the ignition timing when you squeeze open the throttle plate. Without it, the motor will bog. But, nice vid. I'd love to build one of those pigs again. Long time!
I’m having this issue with a 350 Olds motor. It’s an early 70s motor installed in a g body cutlass and they used a distributor without the vacuum advance and my car drives like shit. 😁
Found this video while searching how to hook up spark advance, PCV valves, etc, then discovered I also need to watch everything this video has to offer because I'll need it again soon. Converted over to HEI in my 61 Chevy, but haven't started figuring out key wiring yet.
Thank you for showing the coil to ignition diagram at 6min!! After 2 weekends of frustration and a crazy number of lame videos you came through with the needed info. 5 minutes under the dash and I'm running! Thanks again 👍😎👍
But in the video he pointed to number one on the cap opposite of where the rotor button is pointing. It very confusing. I tried that and vehicle didn't crank but when I point the rotor tips to number one cylinder the vehicle crank but back fire through the exhaust and carburetor sometime. Some people say I have the distributor 180 degree out. Can someone help me understand?
Well what you really do is put your finger down into number one cylinder You first remove the HEI distributor then bump start it until your finger blows off then you take a welding rod or either a coat hanger or some type of wire if you use a welding rod make sure you take all the flux off of it My favorite is the welding rod by the way anyway you get someone on the harmonic balancer to turn it back and forth until you reach TDC top dead center when you go one way and you go the opposite way for it not to move just not the least little bit then you take your distributor and you stab it in pointing it towards number one And you start timing it from there AKA putting the plug wires on at that point in the firing order sequence if you do it the way he is doing it then you wait until you find number one TDC then you look at your cap You put it on you do exactly the way I said about the welding rod and find number one on the cap and where the rotary button is pointing to and you start number one from there but like I said the best way to do it is remove distributor and find number one before you install the distributor
Now when they're referring to 180° out you have a compression stroke and you have a fire and stroke You got to make sure you're doing it on the compression stroke that's what you start timing it from
I have an HEI just like the one with the ICM. 1984 Chev C10. I bought a new replacement. But does not have that 3 wire connection. How would I bypass it to work? One wire comes from the firewall and other connects to cap underneath? Thank you..
Thank God for you bruh. I really need some extra assistance I have the same fuse box but a 73 Impala. I have power on the fuse box but the lights on the dash aren’t coming on anymore.
Thank you for this video and drawings. It really helped me wrap my head around it. My batt wire going from the distributor to the fuse block attached to the firewall is no good. What would you recommend me doing its a 78 gmc caballero
If you are on tdc #1 your rotor should be pointing at number one on the cap. #1 can be any post on cap, it is wherever you point it when you drop as long as it is on tdc #1.
I know this video is now 7 yrs old but still very helpful. PLEASE NOTE; All HEI, Accell and MDS are now all made in China and are junk! Always look for old ones .
@@henrydillard6217 I seared and could not find where they made. Their site says TN USA and that they test everyone before it is shipped. I read many comments most were positive some had 2 or 3 bad units in a row.
My 81 Malibu stopped running the other day as I was leaving the lot, when it happened last week my grandfather said it was the distributor, and he fixed it, now it happened again, how would I go about diagnosing the issue In the distributor
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Thanks for the video I have a 77 k10 with no cab wiring because the rock head that owned it before me ripped it all out and didn’t know how to wire it back together so I’m in the process of just trying to have the lights and the ignition work so I can at least drive it until I get a painless wiring harness
just got a 65 AND IT WONT TURN OFF. I'm not sure what t he guy did before me but i'm stuck , i have to un plug the main power from the battery to the horn relay becuase somehting is puilling pwer and i cant figure it out. currently the red wire out of the distrubator is spliced into a yellow that goes to the solenoid i think i need to start over
Chris....thanks for the videos. I too have installed a HEI ignition in my 69 SS with a 70 LS6 engine. I am fortunate because I have a neighbor who's first assignment when he hired into GM was the HEI ignition system. I was having trouble getting my car started and he stopped by to help. It turns out when you change over to HEI and eliminate the separate coil the resistance wire is the issue. My neighbor suggested that I order a compatible (custom updated) wiring harness that has the resistance wire built into the system: has the resistance wire included in the clip into the "BAT" side of the HEI cap. The "R" post is used on the solenoid and goes into the clip. I now have no starting or charging issues. Hopes this helps others with install.
that’s why I show running a new 12v wire … not using the old resisted coil wire ..so many people have thumbed this video down because they said you show running a new wire when the old coil wire can be used.. you do not use a resisted wire with HEI.. anyone that suggests buying a new wiring harness doesn’t know anything about cars or wiring..
@@chriscraft77022 Hi Chris. I did purchase a new bulk head connector from American Auto Wire at the suggestion of my neighbor who's first project when hired in to GM was the HEI ignition system. The difference was the new bulk head connector has a yellow wire that attaches at the solenoid at the "R" connection and this wire also clips into the HEI at the bat port along with the pink primary solenoid wire. But, I would like to show you what I discovered in my attempt to remedy my no crank, no start issue. I know it will help some of your subscribers who are facing the same issue with these old muscle cars. I have pics to send you if I can get your e-mail. I know you will be surprised. Stay safe. Craig
Possibly a lost cause on a video this old, but, I have a 69 Camaro with a 350 running a HEI dis. It was always having issues running since the 20 years it sat due to that issue finally got it to run, directly connecting the HEI BATT to the battery only when firing it, but finally wanted to put it on a switch to not have it constant * we’d disconnect it once we warmed it up for a few minutes * now with the switch set up, none of the fuze terminals seem to work and let it fire up, and will short out. Returned it to wiring it off the battery and still shorts out ?! Any tips..? Seems as if the fuze box itself is just junk, electrical issues are not my space at all and would love any help If you’ve experienced anything or tips on what to test, seems like it’s the HEI but it was running 100% fine before, now going back to that it doesn’t run again ??
on your fuse box run a 12g from IGN alone terminal ( the 3 in the center.. the one on the bottom) to BAT on the coil . That is all you need to power the HEI
Question for you. My 74 CJ5 has a key switch that the "on" position goes off when the key is turned to "Ignition" . The fuse panel is powered up via a solenoid in the "on" position, but the when turned to "Ign" the fuse panel is turned off since the "On" terminal loses connection during ignition. So in this scenario would it be correct to provide power to the HEI thru a relay in the "Ignition" position but then also provide power to the HEI thru the fuse panel when the key is returned to the "On" position.
your jeep already has an ignition wire… there is no “On” Off, accessories, ign , and start … your coil is wired off ign .. you can use the old coil wire just make sure it shows the same voltage as the battery
Hey! So, I have a '74 K20. I got it running, but it didn't have much power when I stepped on the gas. I thought I needed to adjust the timing and tweak the carburetor. I started with the HEI distributor, set it to top dead center, dropped the distributor in, and put the spark plug wires in the right order. But it's still not running right, even though I know there's spark and it's getting gas. It cranks but won't fire, and now the carb is spitting gas out the top.
Could I put a ford electronic module on my 77 Chevrolet impala v8 ,it could attach to the firewall or fender ,but how could I wire it up to work. Tired of getting stranded with gm module. Think i could do it ?
This video isn’t complete!! You didn’t show us how to connect the vacuum line to vacuum advance unit!!!! Wow and no one caught this and you didn’t either!!
the problem i am having is i took my original engine wiring from the bulkhead to replace it with on from a 1974 k5 blazer went to plug it in and it was not the same so i reinstalled my factory wiring harness from the bulkhead now i got nothing i dont know the hell the deal is so i am going to hotwire the starter and the alternator any advice.? think i am in over my freaking head. Larry Broad 1970 el camino 396 hp with 400 turbo trans
My k5 loss power going down the road, and i narrowed it down to what i thought was a bad distributor. I bought a new one and installed it, but it still just cranks and wont start. I have fuel, but my spark is orange, so its weak. Ive got a new negative ground strap, and my other grounds look fine. Any suggestions?
the only time i have ever lost power was from a wire arching on the exhaust.. you say it wont start, though.. I have never had that problem associated with ignition.. ever... i have also never seen an orange spark.. all you can do first is run a jumper 12v straight from battery to BAT on the distributor and see if starts that way
I had that ignition control module trouble TWICE on my '89 Caprice. But it has the STANDARD distributor, not the HEI. Those GM ignition modules don't last too long. I always buy a new one, and put it the glove box in case of it goes bad. You don't want to be stranded out there.
What is a tach? I took my old distributor out and dropped in an HEI but I didn’t mark where the plug was pointing to. Is that all you do is put the paper in the hole?
#1 wire on cap points to #1 cylinder.. the paper ball is just to make sure you are on top dead center of the compression stroke.. in other words if the ball popped out when the rotor was pointing away from #1… the distributor would be “180 degrees off” it is actually very difficult to understand what is going on at first
Great video, Chris. Question: As long as I connect the + to the IGN space on the fuse box, I can then not worry about the existing wires to the dizzy? (I have a 93 S10 with a 4.3L). I can just ignore them?
I have a small tach that has four wires... green that goes to the HEI.. two wires red and white that can be tied together and run to a hot supply to turn on the light in the tach... and then, there’s a black wire that I do not know where it goes to...Can anyone Help me please
@@chriscraft77022 it wasn't confusing really thanks here is the video for anyone want to see it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hhrlN59BA_s.html
Hey Chris, thanks for the video and a long question. I am about to hook up a HEI in my 1968 Camaro. I am confused as to which wire is actually the one that transmits the signal to the Tachometer. I have installed an OER repop Tic Toc Tach with the fitting printed circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster. I also got a tach filter (was recommended for use of the OER Tach with a HEI. All I have on my current engine wiring harness is apparently only for use with a conventional breaker point ignition with a coil. So, it's the braided resistance wire soldered together with a yellow one for the + side of the coil. There's also a black wire, which I presume is ground for the wiper motor. Then I have a purple one (for the starter solenoid) and another yellow wire, where I don't know what thats is for. What would be the "TACH" wire on the HEI? The "BAT" wire I believe would be a 12 gauge wire instead of the resistance wire. Hope you can give me some guidance, thanks in advance.
That look really easy I got mine. Had someone work on it supposed to be a mechanic a real mechanic I like the way your daddy I'm going to give it a try myself thanks
does the tack wire have to be hooked up plugs not fireing new coil have a wire from battery straight to distribitor just trying to crank it 72 camaro 350 somebody had already changed the distribitor
hi, what is the way when the removal position is lost? the zero mark on the flywheel is finger on the cylinder 1 cable? I have made the fine marking before, but which gear position clicks is lost, is a Nissan H25 engine Forklift,
Might be a stupid question,. Can I run both the Alternator Dummy Light and the Distributor BAT wire from the ignition post at the key?? 1963 c10 with an unmarked fuse block. No idea which fuse is tied to ignition so I’d like to wire strait to Key IGN but the Alt dummy light is already there...
Chris Craft I watched your 3 wire video! Really appreciate the time you take to put these together. I inherited a truck with some crazy wiring. I’ve got the Alt diode wire hooked up to ignition post and it works just didn’t know if the distributor power wire would mess things up if i put it on the same post. Thanks again for your videos! I’m watching the Tach one next!!
Question , changed the distributor cap , coil & rotary on a 78 Chevy electronic ignition , now the alternator light is on , is it possible may have battery wire & tach wire reversed ?
YESALL🤘🏼 my 65 GALAXIE is about to go HEI. Sounds like the right move. Currently has a ford electric box / no points set up but think this will be a great upgrade. Keep ya posted ;) thanks for the help in advance
Yessir, I had no desire to learn about points and how to set them. I had already been around H.E.I. so when I seen my wife's 1964 Malibu had a 1970 350ci 4 bolt main engine out of a box truck I went to junk yard and bought a HEI distributor from an early eighties Camaro and dropped it in. Super easy upgrade. Opened gap on the plugs to match Camaro which was around double. Set timing and man what an improvement. Everything got better, mpg, sound, idle, pulled harder. Excellent! Then I took the big holley off and torker2 intake manifold. Replaced with edelbrock performer rpm matching intake and 650cfm Carb. Runs great now, almost like it's fuel injected. Now I just have to get the power glide rebuilt, it's getting a little clunky on downshift.
Chris Craft, that's a good idea. I didn't really think about how rare it is. noahsdad1972 is the channel it'll be on. I'll make some videos of it and my father in laws 31 A Model he's dumped alot of money in and been in few car shows.
Ah I see the Fan in the shroud here; looks like it fit in the opening fine.....let me know if you bought the fan blade somewhere...need one. You can find me online FB John Alexander
One of these these distributors came installed in my 1980 oldsmobile delta 88,5.0 307 v-8 engine.I've always used die electric grease under the module, and worked for years.seems to not dry up never had a problem. But I have the 5-pin module installed with a,small external electrical vacuum switch connected to the 5-pin to advance and retard the spark timing 5 or 10 degrees when engine is cold or hot.Emr (electronic module retard)control.They had three different setup thru out the years.
Love how you laid it all out ,pretty simple and understandable. Only question I have is why an AFB or Carter carb? A "good" Q-Jet that's set up right will give you good gas mileage if you stay out'a the 4-barrel but also will give that 454 one hell of a top performance head jerker with that 4-barrel ,better than a pretty boy Holley.
My 63 Nova doesn’t have a port in the fuse block that says IGN! I just bought the car and can’t get the ignition to work.I bought a new ignition. I did notice they attached the hot wire directly to battery.
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hi... i have that engine in my boat... i bought engine and when i put it in a boat i have problems... when i put in forvard it runs rough some one tells me that the carb is problem.. i have ac fuel pump.. like 3 cilinder not working... any advaise?
I got a wire on my 81 c10 up by the distributor its orange and has a round rubber boot that looks lieke it has threads in it and it has power to it what does it plug into tho???
hey man thank you so much for this detailed explanation. i was confused on how to wire these hei units and had no idea that ignition control module was inside of the distributor itself, and you can directly connect it to the battery to test it. I am going to connect my junk yard engine this way to test it
Hey man, I have a 71 El Camino with a 350 small block. I don't know anything about engines. I am slowly learning off this car. I am upgrading it to a Edelbrock 4 barrel and putting a brand new HEI distributor in it. I am struggling on figuring out how to run the wires from the ignition part of the fuse box to the BAT on the distributor. I also found that there is another wire already plugged into the ignition and when I fallow the wire, it runs into another plug area with another wire that leads to another set of wires. ( sorry I don't know the correct terminology for most of this). If you could get back to me that would be super helpful since I am struggling to find any forums about my issues. Thanks and love the video.
on your car you will have a resisted down wire wrapped with a cloth.. that is the original ignition wire that went to the positive side of the COIL. it goes to the bulkhead connector on the firewall under the brake booster . most of the times that wire is gone or cut out... look for that wire first..
I am switching my distributor from one with a separate coil to the HEI. I have two wires here that were on the top of the original coil, but I had some guy tell me that they were not giving off enough voltage or one of the wires was...I can't remember, but he ended up attaching a separate wire from the back of the alternator directly to coil ontop of the new distributor in the BAT slot. The only down fall with that, is that car might not shut off. I have not tried turning the key yet because I am afraid I will not be able to turn the key. I am kind of "upgrading" my car since one of the head gaskets went out and I just recently pulled the motor to replace the oil pan since it was bent from me trying to replace the timing chain. It's all back together now up to this point. I have the distributor, Edelbrock 4 barrel, and I was hoping to add a tac to it since it doesn't have one. After I just looked I did not find any wires covered in cloth. There are about 8 wires that run from the driver side tucked in along the fire wall to the passenger side plugged into a little black box.
the car WILL NOT shut off if you wire it like that.. take that wire off the alternator.. go on your fuse box (inside under the dash) and look for a spade connector by itself with IGN in white letters under it... run a temporary wire from that to BAT on the HEI... and get it started first... get a multimeter and check voltage from those 2 wires you talked about... one will have 12v when you crank and 1 will have lower voltage (6-9 volts) when IGN is on with the key.... the lower voltage wire is the original positive side COIL wire..
@@chriscraft77022 it's a1972 Challenger with a small block 340 engine, this thing had an orange box connected to the distributor, I looked it up and looks like it's an ECU, what do I do with those wires as well?, I can't seem to find a good schematic of the original wiring
Hey man I'm rebuilding a 1976 gmc sierra classic 25, and it will only start if I run the 12v distributor wire directly to the battery. I have no power to the cab except lights and brake lights. Any ideas on what it could be? I also have to start it directly from the battery.
