all my videos are in 1080p HI DEF so check that out just an idea on how to correctly install a GM distributor and get your vehicle running please subscribe and thanks for watching
Only one problem Mr. Mechanic, Your rotor is pointing at the number somewhere around # 4 cylinder when it dropped in. It was NOT POINTED TOWARDS # 1 CYLINDER. ANOTHER THING IS, On your balEncer, that tape you put on there was so close that your rotor should have been pointing from her, at around 4 o' clock, then it should have fallen right in, but it didn't. It fell in around 8 o' clock ,so now when you try to start that motor, Every cylinder will be firing on the wrong plugs and it will never run...GOOD LUCK !!!
ok... mr potato head. you don't know anything.. one of these days you will understand what I did... I do start the engine in the video.. keep learning.. 🤡
Not sure what kind of engine you are working on but he did it spot on and if you were right it wouldn't have fired like it did in the vid . I'd recommend inserting your foot in your mouth . I did exactly what he showed and my 350 fired right up as it should Mr craft knows what he's doing so troll on down the road
Joseph when he cranked the engine with the with distributor gear installed it lined it up the the oil pump rod slot. once the gear was engaged it kept the correct alignment. one of the pita about installing distributors is to get the oil rod lined up. an I have fought with this before. Mr Chris Craft showed us to do it five seconds. if the distributor rotor was not aligned correctly it would of being out of time and not started properly. the timing verification was dead on.
It is the spline gear on the cam that matters. When he turned it over, it is on the same #1 spline gear and simply caught up to the oil pump. Your comment makes zero sense.
@@robbygee2539 Ok so for those of us who don't typically go "deep-diving" into the internals of our engines... that rod's orientation has nothing to do with the distributor timing itself, it's only the gear splines that keep the timing set right and you may have to start the splines (such that it will be in the right position, once the rod-slot lines up and lets the distributor seat fully). Do I kinda have that right? (honestly, I had no idea what that rod down in there actually was for till I watched this video). My eyes are opened finally! 8-)
This is one of the only correct videos I’ve found on RU-vid. Top dead center is 0 after the intake closes. Not at the intake opening. New guys come here and listen to this guy...
Thank you very much for your teaching. This guy has to be one of the best teachers I’ve seen on the internet. I love how he explains it on a diagram first, then actually shows how to do it on the car. He explains everything perfectly. None of the “I mean, or stumbling around with words, and no, wasting time, about crap that has nothing to do with what he is showing in the first place. This guy should be an instructor at a college. Good job man!
honestly you're one of the best teachers around these days because now it's just a bunch of people on toxic forums who only wanna help you build a car THEIR way instead of just offering help if they have any. I got a 62 impala I've been trying to revive for god knows how long and the forums out there have been nothing but a failure really
This is real, careful, straightforward and excellent internal combustion engine mechanics. But above all, without any trace of being pretentious. Explained to the detail and superbly accurate. One of the best and comprehensive videos on ignition timing of internal combustion engines. Congrats Chris.
Great video, man. Helped me install a new distributor in my 1971 Skylark. Lucky for me the distributor is at the front of the engine on Buick engines. So much easier to work on!
Hey Chris, I have been around all kinds of backyard mechanics and no one ever told me that trick with how the gears are meshed and tap it around till the distributor falls into place! everyone used a screwdriver to adjust the oil pump shaft numerous times to get it right! good job! I got this now!! Thanks!
Thank you Craft. I tried doing it originally without any video, I had it right. There was an oil leak on the manifold. So I took the Distributor out, fixed the leak. Put everything together and then had a detonation ping… but your video helped a lot and I got rid of that ping. I always thought, that the magneto had to point at #1. But following your video and seeing the comments I realized all that mattered was that the cam gear meshed with the distributor for TDC. Thank you!!!!!!
I'm just working on my first carbureted car and I was doing a carb and intake swap on my 79 Camaro and this video really helped me in getting it to fire I was completely stumped as I didn't know no better this is a complete learning experience for me and this helped me get it in time
my 79 firebird has been sittin for almost 10 years with a fresh motor , and the distributor was part of the reason shes been sittin so long .. just did this havent tried to start it yet .. but im pretty damn confident finally .. thank you for puttin this video out , it finally looks like my nemesis of not bein able to get a distributor in the right time will be licked
Thank you for the how too on the Oil pump, thats really the only thing that didn't make sense to me.. didnt realize you could line up the teeth without it being all the way in and just bump the starter a couple times and it would just work. lmao 10 points
Take the #1 spark plug out put you finger in the hole when it takes pressure its TDC ,roll the timing mark to zero ,then drop the distributor in to here the rotor points to #1 cylinder ,when timing is set the distributor should be square with the engine !use a long screw driver to align oil pump slot .
great video! You have a gift for explaining things. I have learned so much from you. I wish I lived closer I would pay for instructions on my 402 BB. Keep up the great vids
Great Video.. Purchased a 63 Impala that was leaking oil from intake so replaced gasket. Re installed distributor and could not get it to start. Then I saw your video did exactly as you did. Turned the key and started on the first try..
I went back and watched it again and heard you say the gears would stay meshed until the oil pump shaft lined up , man I’m 60 years old and never heard this , wasn’t dising you just wanted to know , can’t wait to try this
If the oil pump slot is at 11 O'Clock top and 5 O'Clock bottom, it will fall right in to the #1 cylinder position without bumping. Simply align the oil pump first and in it goes.
I thought I knew about cars till I try installing a Chevrolet 4.3 Vortec Distributor Hell on Wheels from the Third Dimension!! Anyway. Thanks for Sharing!!!
I only set it at 16 degree before TDC because my mark was not on zero.. but either way.. yes.. it works perfect every time and doesn’t take long at all once you get it..
@@frankdavidson9675 actually the opposite of that.... on a new engine with plugs you cant just take a breaker bar and spin it backwards from the crank bolt.. ive done this like 80 times in my life.. im the guy that starts new engines in 5 minutes
Chris Craft the only tip I can give is to use a small light rag in the #1 spark plug hole, stuuf it in there tight at the spark plug, but not all the in the cylinder. at #1 compression the the rag will pop out. check the timing mark on the balancer, and that the cylinder is at top dead center with a drop indicator or with a Philips screw driver by rocking the crank shaft with a socket and breaker bar. a tip from my ol dad who taught me mechanics. however the tip on this video will save hours of getting the oil rod to line up, enjoyed you video. and the tip with the valve cove off was good one too. god bless.
Found this vid at just the right time. Having issues with my distributor and working it out. Didn't forget about the vids, just need to get it running good...
Thank you. I get it now, 20 videos later. Its the part about two top dead centers that i was missing. I should have known, but maybe it's the ghost of my two stroke past that still haunts me lol... Brrrrrrp
The only problem I have with your video, Chris, is that if someone wants to follow your method as applicable to your MG, it's going to be impossible to start the engine. The fact that in your MG the distributor's rotor points out roughly to valves and sparkplug of piston No. 1 does not necessarily follow for other engines. As of course you know, the general principle for any 4-stroke internal combustion engine is that the distributor's rotor must be pointing to the contact in the distributor cover where sparkplug No. 1 is connected. It will fire between 10 - 20 degrees (it depends on thetype of engine) before the piston No. 1 reaches TDC. That's it really. You explained it brilliantly when showing your piece of paper indicating the first and second revolutions of the crankcase when the two TDCs occur. So, what should have followed in your practical explanation is that the firing will occur at roughly 16 degrees before piston No. 1 reches TDC, regardless as to where the distributor's rotor was pointing to. Just to avoid confusion for those who do not really understand the complete theory behind the 4-strok ignition timing.
Very informative. One thing I would add is to forget about the 16° before TDC. If you can get exact top dead center on the pulley set the rotor exactly pointing at number one on the distributor. You can do the fine tune after to get 16° with the timing light
you totally missed it.. i could not get it on 0 because this is new 454 with high compression and plugs in it.. you will break the crank nut off trying to spin it.. other videos show doing this on an engine on a stand.. that is not how you find TDC in the real world.. only in fntasy land
@@chriscraft77022 Really interesting video......if you took the spark plugs out, would it still be really difficult to move the engine with a ratchet? I've learned so much from you, it's crazy!
Great vid. I mimicked to the best of my ability and I can't seem to duplicate. Balancer is about 6deg BTC but my rotor is already past the #1 wire or damn near right on? Does that make sense, am I on the exhaust stroke perhaps?
I'm trying to watch for the intake valve to start to close and then there's a camera angle change right when it moves downward and suddenly you are crosseyed. Seemed like 3 or 4 times that happened but otherwise it was a good explanation.
Hi Chris. New subscriber. Wish I had watched / found your channel sooner. My S 10 gave me fits getting it timed It's a 4.3 the biggest pain was the two marks on the harmonic balancer Both were exactly the same. I am an old school tec and had never ran across that before. it turned out to be the ( second mark ) going clockwise. At least on this model I read many forums one said it was the mark that went all the way across Ha ha Nope ! The number one cylinder and all the others have the plugs going in at the side so no checking for piston at top, that way. And the Chilton's manual shows the firing order wrong So warning to your viewers there. Sorry for the long comment. I hope this helps someone out there. All my best. Bobby
IM GLAD YOU LEFT THIS IN THE COMMENTS! I have a c1500 GM truck with the 4.3L in it. When i go to set it the crank marks look like 5'oclock on the crank right ?
When both of the 2 chain dots are at 12 a clock thats top death center if the 2 dots are lineup facing each other and you drop your distribution thats 180 out correct?
First off that oil pump key trick is so simple. Why have I not tried that before?!🤣 Usually use fuel priming tool to turn the oil pump. Takes like 2 hours and a lot of cussing. Man I've been working on old Chevys for almost a decade, how did I not know this. I took it one step further and hooked up a gauge that had both vacuum and compression. (Don't use standard fuel gauge as pressure will be 100+ psi. Much more than fuel gauge tolerance.) Then I could see the exact point it went from compression(pressure) to exhaust(vacuum).
I have to say I am never seen it done like that before I guess I am just old I always used a screwdriver to turn the oil pump gear to put it in place but this puts a new light on things thank you so much does that also work with a Vortec I mean I would think so it's just a small block after all
was just fooling with it again got it closer to starting but no luck yet both pistons were up but cant seem to aim rotor bottom right @ #1 on the block unless I pull distributor and turn the screw down inside so close now to starting
Having the rotor facing the 1# cylinder being a must is a misconception a lot of people have which is not true, though it is the way people often do it but once you are ready to put the distribution in, whether at tdc or 10-12° btdc on compression, you can make any spot on the cap your #1 as long as the rotor is facing that spot on tdc compression. On tdc compression you can have the rotor facing the opposite of the 1# cylinder/passenger seat if you want, as long as you make that your #1 on the cap & follow the firing order. Not to say I do it this way but my point is, it makes no difference where the rotor is facing when starting from scratch. Rotor facing #1 CYLINDER has NOTHING to do with NOTHING when setting up timing. BIG MISCONCEPTION. The way I do it since I always remove the plugs & wires is setting the distributor in at exactly 0° tdc compression & making sure the rotor is perfectly lined up with #1 plug on cap, then turn the engine over almost 2 more times & stop around 10-12° btdc on compression. Always starts right up & never had a problem. One thing I would like to add is if you disconnected the throttle body/fuel lines while doing any work, turn the key 2-3 times a few seconds apart so the fuel system can fill up completely. Otherwise you run the risk of the engine striving for fuel which is pretty noticable. Anyways sorry for the long comment & good video, thought I'd share
I’ve done that like 85 times in my life.. I use a paper ball instead of my finger, though..that’s the method you use when the car was already running... in this case we are verifying the timing mark is good
+Chris Craft - So after you set the initial timing do you then run the break-in if you have a flat tappet? Or do you fire it up, and run the break-in even if the timing is off a bit? Your videos are amazing! Thank you!
supposed to fire it up and break it in.. adjust timing as you break it in.. I’ll do the next one like that but I set the timing while it idled and made all youtube pussies cry
@@chriscraft77022 LOL Well I think your videos are awesome. I will take REAL experience rather than all these keyboard commandos - thank you for showing us all your hard work.
I guess I'm confused on the timing here. What has to be pointing at #1 cylinder? It looked like the thing up top was moved way off #1 when you cranked it.
Hey quick question I have a 1989 Chevy c1500 305 I’m doing a carb swap and I’ve done this probly bout 6 time but yet can’t figure it out I have never struggled this much on and car
it takes a while for it to sink it... just watch all the videos on RU-vid and keep messing with it.. now is the problem it not starting or running at all? or is it popping and back firing once it starts to idle?
best headers I've ever seen on the dyno as far as horse power gains vs other brands of headers, was the cheapest piece of shit headers for a 454 on summit racing... just trust me and don't ask any more questions.
It will work but not installed correct.. sort of like putting your car battery in backwards and stretching the wires to hook it up.. it will work but look wrong to someone who knows
Intake vale to close ?? What does that mean ? When you have the valve cover removed will the 2nd rocker arm be in the upward position or in downward position ? Open / Close, what position is Closed, will the second rocker arm be up in the highest position, extended up as far as possible ? Sorry for asking but I need to know
Ok I think I figured it out, watched your video a few times, the first rocker arm will go up and just before it’s coming down, its top dead centre on the exhaust. Then you watch the second arm (intake) it will go up as far as it can and then just before it begins to come down then you are at top dead centre on the intake valve and you set your distributor cap pointing towards spark plug 1 or 2 depending where your mark is on the timing cover, if the mark is just before the timing mark TDC, then you set the distributor to point at spark plug 3. I have a 2001 Chevy Express 3500 with a 5.7l vortek, on the drivers side from the front counting towards the back, I have cylinders 1,3,5,7. So if the timing mark is just before the mark then the rotor will point at spark plug 3
yeah, watch all the videos on RU-vid until it makes sense.. it takes me like 3 minutes to set distributors and get cars started in real life.. it’s just hard to show in a video.. I just filmed it instead of talking about it because that’s what you are gonna see when you do it on the car😎
Thanks. So they are the rubber ones. I just was curious if they are reusable? I followed your video and motor fired right up. Ended a lot of frustration. You help a lot of people brother! Thank you.
let me tell you make it look so easy I got a 1997 366 and C 6500 and I cannot I don't know it starts but it won't stay running and I got a brand new everything is brand new everything's all rebuilt the motor and it's a work truck and it just won't stay running as soon as I let my foot off the gas it stalls right out and I'm not a mechanic what should I do do you have any
on 0 of TDC point #1 plug wire to #1 cylinder.. the point is to not be on the opposite side of TDC.. you can be a plug wire off or 2 .. that does not matter
I get that this truck died out fist was a fuel issue pick up coil changed and fuel pump just cuz it was a problem before . Ended up just buying a new distributor now i have fuel spark and I know i got the timing right but won't fire almost starts when i turn the distributor while cranking. No back firing. Maybe knock senor idk any thoughts ? On that i have the valve cover off so I know its tdc
hello friend, I speak from Brazil. I asked a friend to make a break in a stall that I did to run the 350 small. I realized that the engine will not start .. I tested everything all cables and plugs and connectors..etc. I realized taking a candle plug and put a new candle and started it I saw the spark very weak to the point of barely seeing its color .. I'm suspicious of the key post that the colleague must have called wrong what do you think? hug
Hey Chris,I've been having problems setting my timing on my 283 and came across your video. I noticed after you achieved TDC on the Comp stroke you left the motor about 16• before 0 TDC.Then you placed the rotor more or less at it pointing to number 3 and then bumped the engine until the distributor dropped in flush.At that point the rotor was no longer pointing to number 1 but you put the cap back on. I understand that the fear is meshed with the cam but I don't see how the engine would fire with the rotor pointing to 2 or the 4 cylinder?
when the plugs are in the engine it is too hard to get it pointed at #1 that was as close as i could get it... thats why i tested the 2 closest positions... get yours on 0 and then point the rotor to #1 and let it drop in.. its a little confusing.. it took me years to figure it out.. and it IS confusing..
BOP(buick olds pontiac) are not like GM small block or big block... Your Pontiac 400 is not small or big block... Alot of people make this mistake. Look up the firing order for your specific year. Use Google
grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr hey dude so as long as its pointed to number one in the groves before you turn it over to seat its fine.Ive been having a hell of a time with mine just watched your vid and subscribed also mine is hei front mounted distributor .pleases let me know thanks
you said the distributor mounts on the front.. thats where you lost me.. it depends on where the vacuum advance is pointing... with the vacuum advance pointing in its correct position.. #1 is literally the wire that points to #1 cylinder...
need help with lining the distributor issue up isn't it throwing the timing off as I believe that's the issue I have engine hasn't been running yet in its life and cant get it running. My friend owned the boat he was taking a long screwdriver down the distributor hole turning it little at a time by starts and backfires but no start will that put it up on TDC just doing what you did with distributor click it slowly once your on #1 not a mechanic but have some knowledge of engines but not with timing issues Engine is same as yours all hooked up ready to start with all plugs and everything hooked up no luck getting it started its in the boat I bought
So if you drop the distributor on at 12 or 10 degrees btdc where will the rotor button needs to be pointing I'm think towards the number 1 cylinder? Thanks
