GM Printed Circuit Board Delamination Repair 🔧

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“1982-1993(94) Chevrolet S10/Blazer & GMC S15/Sonoma Technical How-To Videos”
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Example is of an 82-85 era S10 gauge cluster printed circuit board, very similar GM concept from about the 60's through the 80's.
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6 ноя 2019

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Комментарии : 4

@deankay4434 Год назад

Home improvement stores sell dielectric grease in automotive next to epoxy's. Use this on "Edge-board" terminals to keep from future damage of socket terminals. Also, tooth pick the grease on the bulb sockets, bulb wire contacts and studs on gauges where the plug in. Use a smear on back under clips and back of clips. OEM clips are better. Sandblast if able. Otherwise, cut a wood paint stick/paddle to size, grind or cut thickness with knife, the wrap 320-400 grit sandpaper over end. Hold in place with tape, masking or otherwise. Insert and clean inside of clips. Compressed air at 20 PSI or less, use to clean sanding debris from clips. It protects them from water or moisture in the air when temps change. Tach; Plugged in wrong or does not require B+. Some tach's require a "Pull-down" circuit using a 460 ohm resistor to ground to limit drain some voltage (in series, limits current/amps). Other tach's require pull-up circuit. Here, the resistor goes between tach lead as before to B+. I don't think GM used that or either. Online, find "S10 Forum" join and look for electrical section. Some Forums have search feature to "See Schematic" but if tach is from a different model or year, use that schematic or wiring diagram! DK, ASE master since 1978.

@JM_Tushe 9 месяцев назад

That was like 3 miles away of the level of delamination I was expecting. O_o Some stoopid at work put too much heat in a PCB, it made a bubble, I didn't had a multimeter at the moment so I'm just hoping the lines didn't cut. 😭 I'm almost praying because the circuit didn't do what it used to~ 😞

@devilswish8876 3 года назад

I have a strange question why my gm milege counter is ticking he cinde of stop working evry time I put coolant in winter inside my engine is that a back charging issue? And how bypass linear voltage regulator? My ignition coil aperantly has somthing to do with the dash voltage regulator so in winter I dont have enough voltage to start engine I have gm bypass starter selenoid but the polarity is wrong I used even a diode and my positive linear voltage regulator refuse my to crank when I use that starter selenoid R terminal my fuse pop's I have singel coil gm hei e core type with delco induction trigger and 4 pin gm ignition module. So my question is how by pass that dash regulator ore how culd I make my R terminal starter wire to make work? Is there a way to use bouth linear voltage regulators polarity ore swap it some how?

@deankay4434 Год назад

@Devil's Wish >Dude, you got to many things going on here, but phones change words. Click word in Gray, as I changes and makes no sense. First, GM does not use a linear voltage regulator on the cluster like many did 50 years ago. Even then, it was the fuel sender only. With the Starter; 1st, The "R" terminal on the starter solenoid is on everyone, but never used with HEI. "R" for anyone who wants to know, is for the points & condenser days before 1972 & HEI. The points would burn unless voltage was reduced. The old coil bolted in a bracket was designed to run on 9-10Vdc and be hot enough spark. The "R" is for resistor wire and cover with a friction tape or cloth feel. Do Not Use!!! The "S" terminal is start or crank. It uses the PPL wire 10 AWG from the ignition switch. If this is a newer engine or HEI in place of points, cut the wire off. (Theory; During cranking, battery voltage drops. Colder, it drops more. So, cranking the engine with full battery is "S" PPL, once started, the solenoid connects the battery inside the solenoid to "R". The runs thru the resistor wire, dropping current but voltage. Points are happy! Coil produces hot spark. If running external coil off B+ (13.2-14.4Vdc) the coil burns up. "R" is not used as B+ comes to the HEI coil from ignition switch RED hot in run as many things do. HEI; RED wire plugs in next to firewall in outside terminal. With cap off coil, 4 screws for plastic hold down coil. Button, copper ring, spring and thick gasket sit under it. On top of coil the four screws, one closest to outside connector had metal ground strap bent with hook for coil screw and fits inside plastic cap near B+. Ground plugs on here. Without it, the coil will constantly burn thru cap to rotor. IP gages have nothing to do with cranking or starting or spark. Fuel gage has B+ to one end and ground on other. The one in the middle goes to the tank to sender. There are two wire coils inside gage wound in opposite directions. One coil pushes, the other pulls. 0-90 ohms is full to empty for decades. If low, the push-pull reverses and moves needle the other way. Simple. DK, ASE master since 1978, retired.