I have the same style proportioning valve in my 1972 pontiac catalina. I'm about to replace all the brake components, so knowing this will help in getting the system functional.
To reset with the side buttons, remove the rubber cap. Grab a 3-in nail between some small vice grips and push in on the center or try the Allen wrench like he showed. Mine only moved an eighth of an inch and I didn't think it did anything but it was enough. The light was off. You'll know when you're brake light turns off and the key is on for a minute. Back brakes bled fine after. Push from the front to release the back push from the back to release the front.
I know that a reset tool is under like $12 shipped if I used Amazon to get one, so that's no biggie.... . At any rate, we're working on a 1996 Pontiac Grand AM & I'm hoping that just bleeding the brakes does the trick. The brakes went out when my son-in-law was out driving. Turned out that there was 2 slightly leaking Brake lines at the rear of the car, just ahead of the rubber lines on the axle...... Actually I'm hoping that my daughter's husband didn't continue pumping the brakes on the car, since it already had an already close to being empty Brake Fluid Reservoir... If he did (& knowing him, he would probably do just that), we may end up needing to remove the Master Cylinder/Proportioning Valve assembly in order to get the job done..... For some reason, people just never seem to think that it's important enough to check the Brake Fluid level on their vehicles.... I've got that ''Yellow Plasti-Dip Rubber coating that I've used on like the transmission dipstick on my 93 Jeep XJ & you can spot that dipstick handle 10 feet away. I'll put that on the Reservoir Cap so they can see it....
thank you for the awesome video. I was losing my mind. I am having a similar issue. Replaced all brake lines, hoses, calipers and wheel cylinders. Let the system gravity bleed (before I do manual bleeding) but I did not get any fluid in the rear (neither driver side nor passenger side). Bled the master cylinder but still did not help. Then, found this video.
So I had everything replaced on my 88 Chevy Silverado Suburban breaking system. My front brake started squeaking 6 months previous. The fill on the master cylinder stays full but the other side goes dry so I end up filling it with brake fluid. What can I do to get this resolved as it seems there is a problem with the master cylinder?
Thanks man I have a 87 k5 and had the same problem replaced the master cylinder lines and the whole brake assembly on front and back tried this and its a good a hold now! Thanks, and subscribed.
Great vid, I have an old distribution block from 1969, no matter what I do front disc brakes have air. Rear's no air! I can't access the switch itself to look in and see if "it's moved" or not, yet alone even remove it. I removed front STEEL brake line(drivers side) and pushed the rod inside 1mm or so, presumably towards "rear brake section". Do you think that is enough, I know it's a guess? I'm going to re-attach hard line, vacuum bleed to start fluid moving (prevent switch moving by doing that) then gravity bleed. Any other tips? FYI I replaced all calipers and cylinders, rubber lines and not a single fluid loss, air is getting in somewhere. all fittings tight. at a loss. thanks again.
My front brake line broke, and the switch did not kick over and block the fluid from shooting out. The vehicle is a '92 Dodge truck and the valve is no longer available. GM PV2 is supposed to work but has anybody tried it on a Dodge? I feel sure it would work, but only if the fittings and electrical connector would mate up to the lines and wire.
Hi Kyle, thank you for this video. My 93 S10 is in the situation since I changed the front brake hoses/calipers/discs. Now it won't bleed. If I now open the rear brakes and apply pressure, why won't the valve just go all the way over to the other side and block off the rear lines at that point? Why would the valve reset? Seems like I would solve one problem, and create a new one? What am I missing? Thank you!
There is a groove in the middle in which the valve seats. Pretty sure it’s not moving fast enough to go from one side of the prop valve to the other and skip that groove entirely
@Kyle Owens. Hi Kyle, cool video by the way. You kept saying the rear brakes were blocked off. How did you block them off... By disconnecting the main line & plug it? My daughters husband had their car towed home because the brakes went out. My concern is that he got it into his head to keep pumping the brakes on the vehicle, (1996 Pontiac Grand AM), But not checking an ''Almost Empty'' Brake Fluid Reservoir..... Thanks & again, great video buddy......
Hey bro my brake pedal on my c10 is stuck it won’t go down, happened while bleeding brakes and front caliper replacement…. Any idea what it could be???
I've heard there's a special tool of some sort that you put on the proportioning valve to keep it from locking out the brakes when you bleed the system. I I'll probably have this issue with my 85 C30 when I rip the drums off to replace the wheel cylinders as well as bypass the hight sensing proportioning valve on the rear for the back brakes. Hopefully I won't have to bench bleed the master cylinder because the reservoir for the back brakes is bone dry because the rear brakes loose so much fluid.
There is a tool. It’s a piece of plastic that screws into where the brake light sensor is. Should be able to find it on Google. Would recommend bench bleeding your master cylinder if a reservoir is empty - especially if you can get the lines off easily. It’s really not hard to remove/install the cylinder itself. I did a video on it on my 84 K20: m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-F8xiHrk5WIA.html Good luck with the job and feel free to message me with any questions.
@@Kyle-ry5kg Honestly all the brake issues with the back brakes were supposed to be fixed while the truck was getting the trans replaced along with the front brake hose on the passenger side but the guy decided he'd rather let the truck sit on his lot for 2 or 3 months after putting the rebuilt trans in.
That sucks man. The C30 sounds really cool too. Is it a dump body? I’m working on a 69 C50 in one of my newer videos and it’s becoming one of my favorites.
I have a similar problem with a G20 van. I changed the axles so the system was open for several days. After assembly I bled the rear and the pressure was good. Then bled the front and the pressure also was good. But the pedal was way to soft because there was still air in the system. So i bled everything again. I didn't notice that the reservoir went empty. I refilled it and started over again, the rear pressure was ok at first but then I noticed I had a small leak in the rear break line which I fixed afterwards. So I think it also could be a stuck propotioning valve, but I'm not sure. I went to a shop and they tried to bleed everything again but the rear has nearly no pressure at all. The front pressure is good. I'll have to try to pump and open the front several times like you said. Thanks for the video btw. I have another used valve here, so in the worst case I could change it. Is it possible that the problem is the master cylinder because the reservoire was empty?
I got a 83 k20 scottsdale and just replaced drums and brake lines I have brake fluid coming out of the rear and fronts I have a solid petal until I start the truck once it’s running I have no pedal at all do you think this is a similar issue or another issue? A brake line cracked but before that brakes worked fine
My rear brakes are dragging..im wondering if this may be the problem I put New everything and I mean everything 🤔 I have fluid coming out the back..Here is the crazy part while setting up the rear adjustment the drum turns just fine but as soon as I tighten the wheel it won't turn at all🤷♂️
@@BeardsandCars bad brake cylinder/caliper or hose. the rubber hoses can collapse internally and not allow fluid to return back up the line and cause the brakes to drag.
@@pigcreations6357 I just fixed it yesterday. So my rears were shut off due to a broken brake like. I fix the line. In the rear and tightened everything for the rear. I then opened the front drivers side brake bleeder nipple and pumped the brakes fast and hard 4 times. Then I closed the front bleeder. After that I got my son to help me bleed the brakes. I started at the rear passenger side bleeder. I had him pump the brake slowly but firmly 5 times and continued that until i saw no bubbles (about 6 times per corner) . We did that for the rear driversside, then front passenger side and finally front drivers side.. The reason I had him apply pressure slow is so it wouldn't trigger the proportioning valve. It worked! Hope this helps you and others.. now the brakes have been bled and the brake light on the dash went out. Edit : make sure you top off brake fluid as needed!! 😁👍
Pretty sure the light should go out (my light doesn’t work so I don’t know for sure). But you’ll know that it has been reset because the brakes will bleed properly again.
Please help i work on vehicles alot I've done it all. I've learned on my own plus the you tube and watching real mechanics. I tell everyone if i can't fix it or don't know how i will find a way whether it be they you tube or just asking but i have a94 dodge dakota 3.9. All 4 brakes bleed nicely the way they should yet i still am getting close to zero breakage meaning i push to the floor and it stops very slowly i basically can't drive it. I do have drums in the back disks in the front this was done before i bought it but I've replaced front brakes twice over the course of 3 years or maybe nore that i have had it now all of a sudden somethings not working right and then I've heard about this proportioning valve and differential switch etc. Well crazy part is i raised there is brake fluid leaking out of that brake switch which i have red is not supposed to Happen unless there are bad steals somewhere can someone please help i feel completely lost bad part is both my vehicles screwed up at same time. Can you help????? Thank you in advance
I think this may be my problem.. I have a 77 Chevy c10 and we’ve bought a couple master cylinders and didn’t fix the problem. The front brakes bleed fine but the rear brakes barely get any fluid from the master cylinder. We’ve blown out the lines going to the rear brakes and they’re clear. Maybe this could be why the fluid is barely dripping out and we can’t bleed the brakes..
Sounds like it’s your issue. It’s pretty common for this to trip and shut off the the rear drums. Tends to happen if any hard lines in the braking system were disconnected for a chunk of time.
Sounds like a sweet ride. Check the wheel cylinders in the rear drums, they could be bad. Also, likely not the booster. I had this problem after putting in a new booster.
Can this cause the brakes to absolutely suck ass if it’s going bad? I have a 1985 bronco and I’ve replaced everything to do with the brakes except for the proportioning valve and tonight my brakes wouldn’t stop when I was in reverse
Make sure you didn’t run your master cylinder dry when doing all that work. That’ll make your brakes feel like trash if there’s air in it. I don’t believe the prop valve goes bad. Either it works or it doesn’t you know? Someone will correct me if I’m wrong. You change out the brake booster too? That can cause you to have poor braking if it’s going bad.
If the back brakes are blocked off open front bleeder and slam breaks and it will shift forward lke there is a leak in the front. I have done this a bunch as i was shipped the wrong combination valve and had to reset it a bunch before i figured it out.
have a 88 Full Size Jimmy...Replaced front to back with all New Brake parts including Brake Booster and 2 Master Cylinders and when i start my Rig Up the Pedal Goes Right down to the Floor?? i have Great Vacuum pulling from Engine all is good and i must have bleed system like 6 times already? so whats the culprit here? any takers !!
1. Nice ride. I got a 78 k5 myself and been going through that in some other videos. 2. You sure the pedal is still connected to the rod that goes to the brake booster? Stupid but could be the culprit, especially if the pedal isn’t returning up. Check the vacuum hose off the manifold, it could be that. Finally, have you bench bled your master cylinder? It could be air in that. All in all, I’d imagine it’s in your brake booster or master cylinder.
@@Kyle-ry5kg well its all connected and secured rod in place! i always Bench bleed "All" my Masters and Did this one as well. and lastly ....just replaced the Vacuum Booster and replaced the Master 2 times with "New" thinking it was the Master?? and other ideas? i have NO Air anywhere Mr Fixing Junk, sad to say this is crazy... i'm all ears and thanks for getting back to me so quick! please any and all suggestions welcome!!
You’re getting fluid through all bleeder screws? Could it be the wheel cylinders or a brake hose? Brake hoses can collapse/swell inside (when they get old) and they can look ok on the outside.
So I've got a 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 2 wheel drive and I hit the brakes the brakes locked up on the front passenger side... I was able to go away until it heated all the way up bright red and I couldn't move anymore I did the same thing until I got home... I bought all new brake pads, rotor and caliper with everything! I took off the old one and the piston in the caliber was cracked in half probably from getting so hot as I drove it home I mean the rotor was literally glowing bright orange and red... but anyway I put everything new on and when we push the brakes for the first time it locked up immediately this time it won't move at all because they're new brake pads the old ones were old and trashy so it couldn't lock so hard but now it won't move at all! Does anybody know what would cause this? I didn't hit anything to BEND a line or anything it happened in the middle of a 6 lane highway when I hit the brakes... I think I remember that same brake smoking all over a few weeks ago for a few min then it was fine. well... they were fine until they locked up a few weeks later anyway... I did have the pedal get loose and hard in that time between... where i would hit the brakes the pedal would be hard and work but then loose pressure and go almost to the floor... ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED!!
Technically it can and tripping it is a risk you run when you bleed your brakes - at least on some vehicles. As I understand it, a vacuum bleeder can help reduce the risk that you’ll trip it when bleeding the brakes.
@@Kyle-ry5kg I think what this person is referring to involves replacing brake lines. The valve tends to activate when you try to fill that empty rear brake circuit. This is a bigger problem than you alluded to because this GM style proportioning valve is used extensively in the aftermarket to replace single bowl master cylinders (e.g. the 1965 Mustang). In reality, the valve only needs to activate to isolate the rear circuit. If the front fails, the rears are not isolated by the valve (typically), and the rears continue to work.. If the rears fail, then the valve activates. To answer this person's question, Yes!. Without that little threaded tool that temporarily replaces the dash light switch, it will continue to fail. It screws into that port and bottoms in a groove that circles the valve shaft. Once you reset the valve, the tool holds it in place until bleeding is complete. Summit sells them for about $12. Most new proportioning valves come with a plastic one.
Thanks for the added context. As much of a pain as these things can be they’re definitely necessary and a major safety component. I’ve never used the tool you referenced but I’ve heard it works wonders.
Hi there, I changed the valve and still get this issue: the rear brakes stop before causing the the wheels to slide, mainly the rear right one. Any idea?
You getting fluid out that caliper? Could have a trapped air bubble. Or try it a few times. I had to do this process 3-4 times before it worked. Same thing too. Right rear line was barely getting any fluid through
And that’s not fixing it? If you want to go through the headache, remove the rear brake line from the prop valve and use a needle to manually push the pin back to the center. You can also change out the valve entirely which may be easier: How to change a proportioning valve ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5tkDS6nvluc.html
So my mechanic wants me to buy a new valve but they all look completely different to the one here on the video they are yellow and look different. are they the same thing??
I didn`t find this helpful at all, more confusing that anything, my `80 G10 has no front or rear brakes after doing a m/c kit, did a bench bled its fine, pumps from the m/c if i crack the pipes there, but no fluid reaches the calipers, pedal has come up ok , but still no brakes, you say `proportioning valve reset`, but you `bleed` your brakes and fluid comes out. how do you reset p/v if no fluid reached the brakes.
Does a 2002 tahoe have this i have replace booster,master cylinder and front break lines cause one got snapped when I got hit now im not getting fluid coming out when I bleed rear passenger
It might not - I’m unsure about newer cars. If it did it might be located near the master cylinder or somewhere inside the frame rails. Follow the brake lines and you’ll find one if it’s there. Also try gravity bleeding your brakes. If that still doesn’t work you may have a really stubborn air bubble. Best way to deal with that is with a vacuum bleeder or re-run the line.
So how exactly do you reset the proportioning valve? Just bleed the brakes? But isn't that what causes the valve to need resetting in the first place? What is the rubber covered button do we need to press that to reset the valve? Do we need to bleed the valve after bleeding the brakes do we need to bleed the valve at all? My right front caliper is sticking and thinking it was the caliper I replaced the caliper with a remanufactured unit and it still sticks. There is no issue with the drivers side.
I’m having the same problem replaced whole brake system other than lines and my front brakes keep gradually sticking the more I use them I can’t figure out what the problem is, have you?
@@sethross8688 The solution to your problem is going to surprise you. But trust me do this to solve your problem. Replace the rubber break lines. All of them. If one is bad they are all bad, or going to be bad very soon. Here is what you need to do to figure out which one is bad. Put your car on jack stands you want all 4 wheels off the ground, have someone step on the break pedal and release the peddle. and then spin the tires repeating the proses for each tire. When you find the tire that is locked up that is the bad rubber break to caliper hose. what is happening is the rubber break line has a steal bracket that wraps around the break hose. And even though it DOES NOT LOOK LIKE it, it is rusted between the bracket and the rubber line causing a restriction. Think of it as a blood testing cuff. The tighter the nurse pumps up the cuff the harder it is for your blood to flow through your veins. So the same thing is happening to your hydraulic break fluid, and that is what is causing your sticking breaks. It this was helpful to you please see my RU-vid Chanel and thanks for looking.
@@ricksteelcustoms3196 so your brakes sticking was caused by the brake lines? I see nothing wrong with them as when I bleed them they all spray out fine and they gradually lock up as I continue to use them both front tires are the ones that lock up over time not necessarily LOCK but they will stick then I use them more and they stick harder and so on
@@sethross8688 My break lines looked perfectly fine but you cannot see what is going on inside the line. I had the front right passenger side caliper sticking I took the rubber brake line off the car and tried to blow air through is and it would NOT pass through freely and I bought new lines and the air passed right through the lines freely without any resistance. So I cut the rubber line open at the steal mounting bracket in the center of the break line that bolts it to the upper control arm and it was squeezed completely shut because of rust. What you have to remember is that when you are stepping on the break peddle the line is highly pressurized so the hydraulic fluid WILL pass right through the obstruction. But there is no pressure forcing the hydraulic fluid back through the rubber line towards the master cylinder. All I can tell you is my brakes worked 100% perfectly after changing the rubber break Lins and my sticking brake problem was 100% gone and has NOT been a problem since.,. What year make and model car do you have? My vehicle was a 1984 Chevy C10 pick up truck.
So I’ve bled the brakes many times I’m having trouble w my rear brakes everything back there is new drum kit, shoes, lines, flexible line the cylinder and drum. My rear brakes aren’t engaging when I press on the brake but I do get fluid out of them and my emergency brakes work can anyone help me out
@@Kyle-ry5kg hey thanks man for replying and yes I do get good flow both ways I’m guessing it be the proportioning valve I’ll change that and see what’s happens
On the left end of your valve body I see a black rubber cap. I have the same cap, & under it is what looks like a tire valve. I'm so tempted to push it. Anyone know anything about it? Will it re-center the safety switch?
This makes sense but not in the manner you accomplished it .. you essentially just bled the fronts ,you didn't introduce a "leak" so how did the shuttle valve move ?im in the same predicament but I feel i need to introduce air aka a leak to get the valve to move. Am I correct in my thinking
@@lauradahlus yes. But on the side of most is a reset pin. After brake line or hose pops loss of pressure it moves to maintain brakes on side not compromised. GM service manuals on pickup truck vans have such Not sure about new ABS models though.
If you take an oil can and pump brake fluid backwards through the system with the master cylinder cover off. you won’t trip that valve and can bleed them normally. I dont know of anyone who has had good luck with the little plastic tool.
Skip to 3:38 for step-by-step instructions on how I did it. Some people will remove the rear brake line and use a pin to push the valve component/needle back into place. I didn’t do that. I just opened the system under pressure and that made it reset.
simulate front brake failure to reset valve...why does it get stuck? poor design, bad quality fluid?....also im so over mixed brake systems...4 disc plz
Skip to 3:38 for step-by-step instructions on how I did it. Some people will remove the rear brake line and use a pin to push the valve component/needle back into place. I didn’t do that. I just opened the system under pressure and that made it reset.
I'm reading here in my 1977 service manual and it says: "WARNING: NEVER USE COPPER TUBING BECAUSE COPPER IS SUBJECT TO FATIGUE CRACKING AND CORROSION WHICH COULD RESULT IN BRAKE FAILURE" trying to figure out how to reset this valve and saw that. Figured that I'd share it with you, noticed that you had copper lines.
Thanks for the heads up. I’m using nickel copper. Idk if that makes a difference, but I’ll run them till my brakes fail and I hit a runaway truck ramp.
Nickel copper brake lines don't have that problem because the nickel makes it an alloy that isn't susceptible to the work hardening issues that would arise from using pure copper lines
Sorry to hear, it took me a few tries. You can reset it by pulling the rear line off and using a pin to push the needle back into place. Or you can change out the valve entirely: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5tkDS6nvluc.html
