This video gives you an inside look at the combination valve. From its functions to bleeding tool use, we explain its use and importance. Please visit www.mpbrakes.com for more product information.
Wish I had bought my valve from these guys! I used Right Stuff and got no directions, no tubes (extra) no valve bleeder tool, cheesy mounting bracket or extra fittings.
Your the bomb bro,put a new booster,master cylinder and proportioning valve on my custom trike,i know how to do the rod but had never done the plug in the valve,thank you so much
If the valve is off the vehicle, unscrew the switch, you should be able to tap the valve on one end or the other against a hard surface like your workbench and see it's position in there, and get it centred.
To reset the switch, fix and bleed the side that blew out, then bleed the side that did not blow out. As you apply more pressure, it should push the valve back to center and shut the light off. If the light flashed off then on again, you went too far, bleed the other side again.
Just finished install. Have ZERO pressure to back bleeders. All new lines. Removed combination valve to be sure that fluid could pass thru both rear and front ports to supply lines with fluid. Still nothing at rear bleeders. Has to have something to do with combination valve??? Yes I used the white lock tool to keep valve centered.
If you remove the warning light sending switch, you should be able to see which direction the valve has moved. If it moved toward the rear, bleed the front brakes again, and it should re-center. If the shuttle moved forward, bleed the rear brakes again.
My Haynes Manual says turn on the ignition and slowly depress the brake pedal and the valve will re center and the light will go out. People on the internet say they stuck a small sharp object down into the recess on the valve and were able to move it back to center. My front brake line broke, and the valve did not move enough to seal off the front brakes. It just kept shooting fluid out when I pressed the brake pedal, and the rear brakes didn't work either. Truck needs a new valve. What was your experience?
I would like to see someone do this on a 1987 chevy truck where the portioning valve is wedged tight up under the radiator and can't be worked on without removing the entire valve due to obstruction of it's location.
I'm doing it this weekend. The valve is on a cross member on the driver's side and yes a PITA to work on in that location. I have a P30 motorhome that blew a hard line to the rear brakes. So to reset I am told to use a small torx screwdriver or allen wrench (I'll try with a 2mm one) to push the valve back via the rear brake line/ valve side which is what failed. I'll post of a video of this once it's done.
@@lilmockme8821 Oh! We'll I managed to reset the valve with a very small allen wrench stuck in there AFTER pulling off one end of the valve. I've got a video on it, I think ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RmXdYWY9yYw.html .....not sure why they decided to locate that valve there but I'm guessing to keep anything from hitting it. Brakes are bled and working great now!
I'm new to the gm brake failure system. I've been reading and researching non-Stop about the many issues. I have a 2000 gmc sierra 1500. 23k miles, already upgraded the brakes, and rotors, has new master cylinder. Now on one of my cars I removed the abs system and added non-abs proportioning valve, and wondered if the my truck can obtain the same. So will this device be a solution? I'm going to replace all my brake lines, and really don't want to deal with the abs module. Read alot that it fails. And my rear has been locking up. I do not want to cause a wreck or have something fail while driving. Safety is my #1 priority at this moment.
If your velve prevents rear brake lock up then how can you stop when sliding down hill in the snow. That's a big problem when the rear brakes won't hold. Let me know please
So to confirm here. This valve at no point merges the two input sources from the master cycleder? They stay completely separate? So master cylinder 1 controls front brakes, and master cylinder 2 controls the rear brakes. If there was a leak in the front brake line, you will still have rear brakes?
I had this installed on a rig with a chevy 350. A year later and now the hole in the coupling going to the rear brakes is leaking brake fluid.. What is this hole for and can it be plugged?
Question, when the low brake fluid sensor is removed, is there supposed to be any pressure or brake fluid in that chamber? I just did a proportion valve rebuild for an 84 Mustang. Different animal, but same function as the proportion valve requires a set screw to hold the internal piston from moving while bleeding brakes. But after my rebuild, my low fluid switch is leaking brake fluid through the top pins. Not the threads. Does that indicate the rebuild wasn't a success? Right now I have the set screw acting as a plug because I cant used the stock low fluid switch. It's possible that when the torched the lines to get them free, they damaged the plastic sensor, but just the same, I was under the impression there wasn't supposed to be fluid under the switch in the chamber where the sensors prong rests in the V groove.
The issue I have is, when backing down a boat ramp, when I go to slow the pace by using brake while the truck is going at a crawl, the front tires will start sliding trying to stop the vehicle, but the rear brakes wont do anything to stop when backing down a hill. the adusters are adjusted properly and it seems very little application happens with the rear brakes. My truck is a 3/4 with front Disc and rear drum 13x3.5 GM 14 bolt axle. When I bleed the system, I get fluid out, but my guess its a bad Prop valve. Also when inspecting the shoes after several thousand miles, the shoes look "new" still with very little if and brake dust, which tells me they are not doing there job.
I had the same axle in my old C20. You probably just need to pop off the rubber plugs on the back of the backing plates and adjust the brakes manually. I adjusted mine about every oil change because the self adjusters never worked very well on that truck. I tried everything I could think of. High end brake shoes,all new hardware. I just had to adjust them myself.
@@Thundarr995 actually, I replaced the P Value and the rear brakes grab allot better. Both of my adjusters were working. My axle is a 14 bolt with 14x3 brakes. I have not been back to the boat ramp since I fixed it, but can tell just by driving the truck, the rear brakes are doing well.
So I've got a question, can I install my line lock for the front brakes in between the master cylinder and combination block or does it have to be between the front brakes and the combination block, since there are 2 lines I would technically need 2 line locks or a 2 to 1 line adapter and then a 1 to 2 adapter after the line lock?
Can anyone help. Replaced wheel assemble yesterday on both sides. When I was done the driver side breaks slip toward the end of the break. I bled the breaks thinking that was it and still same issue. No abs light is on. It’s like it’s slipping when you get down to 10mph while breaking.
wow no comments here yet, I got a question. how do you know if your combination valve is bad? my brake calipers on the front are locking up (drums on back) I replace the calipers with no luck then I replace the rubber hoses with no luck they're still locking up, when I open up the combination valve with a wrench I hear the calipers unlock and release.
+Heinrich I think you just diagnosed your own issue: "when I open up the combination valve with a wrench I hear the calipers unlock and release." Time to replace.
I just bought a power booster p. valve include-on the out end of the p valve there is a small rubber at least I think its a rubber which is a major leak---so does that need a screw in type plug----- thanks
You absolutely can. It runs about $13.00 and can be gotten as part number HW3350. Give one of our sales reps a call and they will fix you up. Sorry for the slow response back to you. Gotta do a better job keeping up with this social account.
Question. Did 4th gen camaro to 3rd gen camaro rear-end conversion. Gives me OEM rear disc brakes that work amazing however, NOW the red brake light is ON, on the dash all the time, any fixes? THANKS
@@OpenBarGarage I will try something along those lines, eventually I will replace the master cylinder with 4th gen unit and the combination valve with an adjustable one. Thanks.
@@davebarron5939 I also wanted to add that it could also be your handbrake switch which could also be lighting up the indicator lamp... If it's the same as my chevy truck.
@@OpenBarGarage Agreed, however that I have been able to isolate out of concern. I am certain it is the pressure differential between the front disc and the "now" REAR disc. No biggie, just annoying.
Hi Dan, I'm sorry you can't hear the narrator. This Video was shot a few years ago and narrated with a microphone that only captured the audio through the left speaker channel. You might have to check your speaker settings in order to hear the narration. We do apologize for the inconvenience.
