I hired on at Harrison Radiator in 1985. I spent most of my 21 years there working in R4 machine lines. The plant(s) were plant 1 north Dayton, OHIO(closed about 1992) and Moraine, OHIO. All Dayton work was moved to Moraine. I worked in the shell line 140, piston 139, front head 134 , cylinder133, yoke, valve plate, even assembly 141 a few times. I also worked in paint-packout 142 where all compressors (R4,H6,V5) were painted and labeled. painting ceased about 1992-94. The "safety keeper" is called the strap. I knew a guy who lost part of a finger where the strap was welded onto the shell. Pistons were press fitted into the yoke till about 1992 when GM went to the threaded piston. We received from Oloffson machine company new machines (the threaded piston changeover) that were CNC and replaced the old 41Bs that were made by Oloffson in 1977-80. I was in dept 139 when this happened. Those rubber seals on the shell/cylinder were nasty. People would use them as rubber bands and hit others with them. They HURT! The "nose plate" is called the front head,,dept 134. The front head pictured was called a 6 pole or also called a "corvette" front head. An earlier version called the 4 pole did not have the "step" at the base of the front head. (where the clutch pulley is pressed on) At 7:00, when the compressor is shown upright, you see the balance weight. A balance weight was needed to off-set the throw of the shaft as the shaft rotates around the inside of the compressor. I filled in a few times in the balance weight dept. The Moraine plant was originally started by Orville Wright (1926) for use as a sea plane manufacturing plant. His idea was to build the plane here and wheel the plane down to the Miami river (about a quarter mile) and takeoff. Later the plant was sold to Charles Kettering for his Dayton Engineering Laboratory Company. DELCO Kettering later sold out to GM. My father met Mr. (BOSS) Kettering in the late 1950s while flying model airplanes at Triangle park. (Dayton) BTW, the first NFL game ever played featured the DAYTON TRIANGLES (named after the park they played at). During WW2 the plant made propellers and hydraulic components. The last day of operation in Moraine was August 31, 2003. 2.2 million sq. ft. In 1999, GM leased a former Frigidaire warehouse and moved "some" of the Moraine plant to the new location. In spring 2003 I made a quick walk through of the soon to be abandoned plant. Almost nothing was left. Very sad. In 2006 most people left. In 2007 the new location was shut down. All jobs sent to Mexico/China. When I hired on in 1985 we had over 4,000 hourly and 500 salary. Franklin Sousley one of the flag raisers at Iwo Jima worked at this plant when it was a FRIGIDAIRE plant. Thanks for the memories of many, many years ago.
I ordered this kit. My questions were answered promptly, everything arrived in the time frame specified, the parts were good quality and came with production date labels on the bags. The lip seal install tool did work, but when pressing the seal in to the case the tool over-engaged the crankshaft, expanded the end of the tool out and cracked it. If the tool were a little thicker this may help? I figured the seal had been cut but after an 8-hour vacuum hold and two days charged the seals all held great and the re-seal was successful! The Belleville washers on the front of the crankshaft may stick to the inside of the front housing and lift out with it. This could lead to them being re-installed incorrectly if they fall off the housing when it's lifted off. This is the only information I lacked from this video but I was able to examine the witness marks and get them back in right. My thumbs up represents appreciation for a helpful video and a positive business transaction! I would buy from these folks again! Thanks Centurybob!
A testament to the perfection of this video is that 7 years later, there are not 20 more from other people on RU-vid. My only comments: The case, work bench and hands need to be very clean before even opening and after. A grain of sand on an O-ring can fail the seal. And be careful not to nick, overstretch or roll the seals when installing. It's easy to do on such large rings. This is a relatively simple repair in itself, but if a seal fails after putting it back in the vehicle and charging the AC, there's a lot of expense & time wasted. -As a side note, Bob sounds exactly like a famous cardiologist, Dr Richard Flemming. Hmm... Hearts and compressors do have a lot in common...
After a few failed attempts to press off the outer shell, I ended up using a 4 jaw lathe chuck with the jaws reversed and closed enough so they just covered the sheetmetal case. A short piece of 4" PVC was used to press it apart on the hydraulic press. A ton of rust around the edges of the compressor was making it very tough but it finally came free.
The best replacement for a bad R4 compressor is an ear-mount Seltec TM-16 or ear-mount Sanden SD7H15, with the appropriate pulley (v-belt or serp, depending on what your R4 was). The Seltec TM-16 more closely matches the displacement of the R4, and so is a better choice between the two. With some spacers and creativity they can be made to mount up to the R4 bracketry on most vehicles. New custom hoses are required, but at the age these systems are new hoses are a good idea anyway.
Thank you! I had to do one before seeing your video. Your shell removal tool is nice. I had to improvise and used an old shell modified into a driver. YEAH tell me about the "new" junk on the market these days. I could tell a lot of stories about those but I will spare you the agony. The original equipment units are by far and away the best way to go.I agree with you about the mineral oil being good during assembly! When I "find" a good used compressor at the junkyard, I will usually fill it all the way up with cheap, store-brand oil before plugging the ports and storing it. That way there is no air space in it to provide oxygen and moisture for corrosion. Then when I am ready to re-seal it and put it in service, the interior parts are not in any way rusted.
I apparently was not careful enough. After rebuild, there is a very slow leak (~5-10oz/year) of refrigerant along the outer edge of the cylindyical case/housing that is sealed with the two very large o rings (13:24 in the video). I probably messed up taking the case off or putting it on. I had none of the specialty tools for dealing with the case, probably bent it or something taking it off or putting it on. I think you really do need to make a specialty tool to take it off slowly, and not try to tap it off. This was noticed after >1 year. I only found it using a pretty high-end infrared leak detector.
Great dude. I saw this vid and called his store, he picked up and answered my questions and gave me recommendations. Thanks for the info and great video.
Thank you for a very informative video. Your presentation was professional, as opposed to others I have seen. When an A/C compressor is rebuilt, are the pistons/rings/ bores ever replaced or reconditioned? Or, did your presentation document all that happens when a compressor is professionally rebuilt? Thank you.
Great video!... my dumb R4 compressor is bran-new from GM on a serpentine kit and once the system was filled it started leaking from the case and the blocked off pressure port on top. very upsetting...
bought a brand new, empty GM AC Delco unit for my 86 s10. filled it up normally with mineral oil, I use r12, charged system correctly, boom 1 month later the front plate seal busted a leak. I just finished revealing the compressor with the kit from this company, I didn't touch the 2 case seals tho as they were knew. that was a mistake... of course froggin just sprung a leak after 2 weeks. im so passed. new compressor, not rebuilt and it did this to me.
JJ Hi Bob. Enjoyed your video servicing R4 ac compressor. I have a 1983 nercedes 240D which came with an R4. After 40 years it leaks and clutch is bad. If I have it removed and send it to you,will you service it and if so at what cost. New ones are expansive. Pleas
I need help deciding between resealing my compressor that has a brand new clutch and no other known issues or simply get a remanufactured unit for double the price of a seal kit. Any advise? Thanks
I have a Harrison #1131750 from a 1991 Caprice. Is there a way to know for certain which clutch puller/installer set that I need? Would maybe Kit #R4-7636 Mixed Metric/Standard be the right one?? This compressor has o-ring port seals (suction & discharge ports), which I personally like better than the thick washer style seals. I'm not 100% that this was the original compressor on this 91 Caprice... but I think it was.
Under the orange plastic thing you have the inlet and outlet ports. Can you tell us what O rings go in there. I have 2 R4 compressors and they have different O rings in that area :'(
I got a new compressor kit for my '94 burb from the big box stores which the compressor has spaces surrounding the inner shell which I assume is a rotary or scroll compressor??? Also is it worth overhauling the OEM after having a catastrophic failure?
Any advice for an R4 compressor that has lost its compression? Will this kit fix that issue? There’s no suction or pressure on my compressor but it’s quiet on operation
Kent Moore J-25008 A/C Compressor Shell Remover Installer Tool Set. The tool has 2 pieces normally. Bob only has 1 of the 2 pieces of the R4 Shell Remover tool set. "Kent-Moore" is the GM factory tools branded name. The J-25008 tool set is also known as J-25008-2 too.
I bought the pullers and installers for the clutch as well as the shaft seal installer. I managed to actually find the exact pulley puller on ebay that he uses in the pulley removal video. The seals provided were premium as we're the tools. Here's the adapter I made for my press to press off the compressor housing. Enjoy... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iPI3Vci77LA.html
If the air gap is adjusted to wide that will happen. Anything above .030 is too wide. If the gap is already tight -.020-then it can be a weak coil. Older GM built units rarely have week coils.
@@paulsookhai4055 Its a a kent moore tool mine came with both sides which this guy is missing in the video I think mine has the installer too. So no need to use a press
Make sure the shaft is oil free when installing the clutch or it will migrate and permanently contact with the pulley. Any oil leak on the shaft seal will add to the problem. www.watdahel.com/tutorials/r4-compressor/repair.php
