Hey Joshua, I saw your last message but it doesn't show up here anymore? OK, so temp was 90 and low side dropped way down. Was that at 1500 RPM and holding it there for a minute or so? Did compressor cut off at that low pressure? All AC settings were set for max cool and motor was up to operating temp?
That’s not where the Orfice is on my 2006 trailblazer, it’s between the dryer and the firewall, you have to pull the dryer out and the radiator overflow bottle to get at it, like I said it’s between the dryer and the firewall not alongside the fender and the airbox
2008 TB. AC is hardly cold. Compressor seems to be engaged at all time so I know it is not a compressor clutch issue. I was hoping the system is low on refrigerant, so purchased R134 with gauge and it is showing the system as full. The only thing I have noticed is that after running the AC, I have excessive amount of water/moisture building around the accumulator and dripping under the car. It is like an open faucet!!!! Any idea how to isolate the issue? Thanks.
You may have a problem with the evap core that is inside: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4SpNRz5-BAM.html or check this one: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Z-px1f5FD1I.html
Unfortunately yes. There is no way to get to it without opening up the system, and A/C Receiver Drier should be changed also www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1028675&cc=1415269&pt=6972&jsn=878
I have an 05 envoy, 4.2L. I've replaced the compressor 3 times. The system is charged and the AC clutch is snapping on/off but I still don't get cold air. Could you help me trouble shoot. I'm at a loss for answers.
@@MRM-wp4gr the original just stopped. The second one I accidentally filled up way to much PAG oil into. Now, I can hear the AC clutch engage and I have pressure in the system but there is no cold air. I did notice the oriface tube had metal fragments in it and a screen was missing.
@@commanderjank9060 The first compressor you replaced probably blew up and sent metal particles throughout the AC system....that's what usually happens when they go bad. When that happens, not only does the compressor need to be replaced, but so does the condenser, and especially the orifice tube, because that's where most of the fragments get caught. But they can also get into the AC evap core. So in order to get the AC working properly again, you have to replace the items that I just mentioned, as well as take off all the lines and flush them out completely. The evap should be replaced also, but it is such a huge pain in the ass to do it that most DIY mechanics will try to flush it really good and take their chanced that it will work ok after that.
@@MRM-wp4gr thank you for your advice, I'll go ahead and just start replacing things. Tonight I'll buy the condenser and accumulator. Next month I'll buy the evaporator and lines. I'll tear into this by June. Thank you again.
Have you hooked up a set of gauges to it to check your pressures? You can get a set at autozone or oreileys for free if you leave a deposit with them.. You probably have a restriction somewhere. How old is your compressor? Did you add any R134a to it?
@@MRM-wp4gr it had some odorless smoke come out the vents 2 days ago and it froze over and this morning I had the heater on and noticed it froze over also. I purchased the AC Evap to swap it out but if it's something simpler I rather try that first. Like maybe the low pressure switch might not be working 🤔
@@JovanValentin711 Your compressor is probably close to failing if it's 18 years old. There is probably a clog up of metal chips caught in the orifice tube screen which has created an obstruction. It's best to replace the compressor, condenser, orifice tube and receiver drier before the compressor completely fails and sends out more metal into the lines.
Dude. That ac system doesn't have a receiver/ dryer system. It has a accumulator system. Receiver/ dryer systems are called txv systems and u will always find that receiver/dryer on the high side and not on the low side like on your vehicle. Also you are wrong on what you said about wich is the inlet and outlet lines on the accumulator.
MRM I have a video on my profile explaining what is going on. My a/c is freezing up after 15-30 minutes of driving depending on what fan speed I have it on. I don’t have a set of manifold gauges, but the one that comes with refrigerant cans says the Freon is at the appropriate level.
@@joshuakeith8710 You have to get a set of gauges to see what both pressures are at. You can go to auto zone or Oreiley's and check one out for free. They charge you for the cost of the tool on your credit card, and then refund the full amount when you return it. The low pressure gauge that you have may be faulty. Either way, you have to check the high pressure side to make an accurate diagnosis. What started this problem? Did it start after adding R134A 10 months ago?
MRM Well, first I was having an issue where the a/c compressor was kicking on and off at idle maybe every 10 seconds. So I added some Freon. A few months later I do believe this started happening.
