I was so enamored with this light that I forget to turn on my back light for this video 😆 I also wanted to mention that the more time I spend with this light, the more impressed I am with the build quality. It's about as good as it gets!
been looking for a good key light for video that i can pair with some led panels. but also wanted a strobe for the occasional portrait photo. this video confirmed that this light is probably what i need
If you plan to use it for photos too, then the FV is kind of unbeatable because it's the only LED video light that has flash functionality. AND even if it didn't it's a killer video light by itself! I think it's perfect for your use, especially if it's mainly portrait shots. Let me know how you like it if you pick one up :)
Unless HS, that would decrease power, shutter speed would have nothing to do with flash exposure in normal sync with camera. Exposure with flash would still be f/16 at 60th, 125th or 200th. Mark at 6:56. Thank you for the review, you explained everything I needed to know about modeling light when flash is used. However; I don't understand why people get constant light exposure mixed with strobe.
I used the settings I used just because I wanted to test it at 1/8000 to see how well it worked. Overall it’s simply just 2 stops brighter in flash mode than continuous mode.
We all like to use a low iso, but the new camera’s can shoot a perfect picture at 1600 iso. Using that plus a Fresnel lens can change the whole shoot. Also the modeling light will be enough for all inside shooting and outside great for focus. They really put the pressure on all the other light companies, and they real can’t compete !
I dunno, I can immediately tell the difference between even 400 and 800 on my Canon M50, 5D IV, and Sony a7R III. Granted, if I shoot 4K and people are watching on RU-vid in 1080p, 1600 would be no problem. The bigger issue in my opinion at higher ISOs is light contamination from other ambient sources. I like shooting at ISO 400 around f/2.8 and 1/50. It’s a good balance of blocking out ambient light while not being so bright it starts to blind me 😄 And yes, a 200W LED modeling lamp is pretty much unbeatable!
It has no modeling light, but the power LED can be used as such. It is still primarily a continuous light source with the flash feature used from time to time.
Is it possible to get a decent photo at 1/160 F8 ISO400 - 640 ? Because i really want a hybrid light since i'm shooting reels and taking photos at the same time. And its possible to use this together with my AD300Pro at the same time light combination in flash mode ?
That will really push the light to its limits, especially if you are using a bigger softbox. Hybrid LED flashes like this, while great, are nowhere near as bright as a real flash. I mostly recommend them if you mainly do video, but want a little extra power on the occasions you take stills. As far as using them together, it's been so long since I've had my FV lights I don't remember, and don't really see a mention of that. I also wouldn't typically recommend it because LED and real strobes have different colored light, even if they both measure 5500K for example, the spectrum is different. There's really nothing that compares to strobes when you need to shoot small aperture photos.
Hi man, great video, and thank you for the knowledge. Just one minor correction, when using flash without HSS, the shutter speed doesn't affect the flash power, so ISO 100 F11 SS 1\60 gonna be ISO 100 F11 SS 1\250. That's because the speed of light is way faster than your camera shutter, even at 1\8000.
Marom Ohayon It’s been a bit since I filmed this so I’m not sure which part you’re referring to, but I definitely know this so I either misspoke or didn’t explain myself very well somewhere. Thanks for watching and keeping an eye out for other people to get accurate info! 👍
Every one has to know that it is mainly a video light that flash function might give you 1 stop more light but that is NOWHERE NEAR to the power of a real flash. If you make tabletop photography and you usually have to stop down to f16 f22 to keep DOF than these are just really unusable, or only usable on a stand not handheld... which is a lot more cumbersome. And it is not very cheap. I would suggest a much cheaper video light from Godox (like the SL 60-100--150-200) and a cheap 300W flash from Godox as well... like the Godox MS 300 I think that combo is still cheaper and a lot more capable
You actually get around 2 full stops more light in flash mode, but you are 100% correct. Even a cheap strobe will be significantly brighter, so I always recommend a true flash for photography. The flash functionality on these is a good bonus if you do mainly video, with photos being a strong secondary need. I use continuous lighting for my RU-vid thumbnails for example, so if you're like me, a couple more stops brightness is useful. If you're shooting at ISO 100, 1/125 second, and f/16, you will definitely not get close with these lights.
@@NewLayer Yeah thanks. I just wanted to make it clear some people might not feel the difference. 2 stop plus is actually not so bad for a LED. But the problem is that you might have to use a softbox which in itself takes away 1-2 stop of power or a honey comb filter which takes away 2 stops or a snoot that might takes even more. Or you want to color your light and the yellow filter only takes away 0,5 stop but that nice dark blues or red can take 2-3 stops even... and if you want macro the macro lens itself can take a lot sooo...well for photography you DO want power I mean a lot :-) for studio the 300W is enough but for events even 600W might be lacking ...aaand if you want to overpower the sun summertime to make those beautiful shots that ...well nothing is really enough :-)))
If Flash time duration in strobe mode of FV200 unit is 1/250th or less, shutter speed doesn't matter up to this value (only affects ambient light). So 1/60 @ f11 would be exposed exactly the same as 1/250 @ f11 and not at f5.6.
That is true, but are you referring to my measurements converting Lux to f-stops? This video is older so it's been a while, and is a measurement of output, regardless of flash duration.
No, I did not design this product, but is clear to me that the post flash blackout is for the LED and it's diver to dissipate heat from the overdrive. A better design would have been to vary the blackout time depending on the set continuous-light level.
I agree, but just having the flash functionality is great, even if some aspects aren’t as cutting edge (presumably for cost savings). The recycle time is plenty for me, and probably for most people. I would definitely recommend real strobes for anyone serious about photography.
I plan on it as soon as I can get my hands on one :) Not sure whether I want to pick up the VL300, 200, or 150. I love the power, but it's probably a bit overkill, haha.
i just would like to know if u see a big benefit in the CRI /TLCI number compared to normal flashes ? Would u recommend the FV150/FV200 for tabletop & Product Photography in Indoor Studio ? My plan was to mix it with 2 x 200 WS Flashes. . . left and right and the FV150/200 in the top . . . to give a more natural LOOK . . . I am Shooting the most time Macro or Tabletop, 90% cannabis so i think it could be a big benefit in giving out the richt colour tones . . .
The color accuracy of decent flashes is better than continuous lights, although, neither is going to be so much better or worse that it will really make a difference in the final image. The FV lights work good for indoor studio stuff, although again, real flashes are much brighter. So, especially with macro, when you need to shoot at f/11, f/16, or even smaller apertures, continuous lights are not bright enough. From the sounds of your concerns, I would stick with flashes for your use.
BY the People keep in mind that I boosted the sound and recorded from just a few inches away. I just wanted to show a comparison with the SL series lights for people that are familiar with those. It is very slightly quieter, and it’s a much smoother noise, so I have no problem recommending it for talking head videos or even interview type situations granted that you keep the lights three or more feet away from the microphone. I probably made it seem a little worse in the video than it actually is. I used the SL150W for all my videos for a while, and the fan noise was never noticeable, and the FV200 is even better. I think I may just have too high of expectations when it works perfectly fine.
BY the People Yep! I’m reviewing another light ASAP where you can actually turn the fan completely off and it will only come on if it gets too hot! I’m interested to see how long it can run and at what brightness for that happens. It’s also a $400-$500 light though 😬
@@NewLayer Thanks very much for the test, it would have been nice to just put it in normal interview mode, that is lav mike or boom just on the head and the light about 1.5 to 2 mt away (5 to 7 foot). For example the other day I just bought a motorized slider and tested it late at night and thought it was loud. When I did an actual interview you couldn't hear it at all. But again thank you for the test,
Daniel Villiers Good point, although I used the FV200 for me talking in this video at 3 feet away, so if you can’t hear it in my video, you definitely won’t at 5 feet or more!
@@NewLayer that would be great as I am actually looking to buy a professional light for myself for the video. 1 lighting scenario is for a RU-vid channel of a baker. Another lighting scenario is for corporate events.
@@randeepnagi5830 Definitely check out my newest videos, there's a LOT of light reviews already up. The big Godox comparison video is a great place to start.
Great info, thanks. You and Robert Hall are _the guys_ to listen to when it comes to lighting :-) I have an AD200 that works great but I see the clear advantage of having the FV200 in scenarios when filming interviews for ex., where there'd be very convenient to quickly change the mode, snap a couple of photos and get on with the rest of video work. I've just got me the fanless Godox UL150 and these two lights would be a great match. I am, however, a little concerned if I'd use the FV200 as the key light (then the angle for the flash mode would be the best to the subject, or should I use it as my second light - and then need to move it further closer to the subject if I'd want to take a flash photo..
Thanks! Rob is a beast when it comes to the Godox strobes, so I'll take that compliment any day. The FV series is so good in so many ways, but in flash mode, you get about 1.5-2 full stops of extra brightness, so it depends on what you need. It's definitely nice to have a 200 watt modeling lamp when taking photos, haha. I think for indoors, especially shooting at video settings around ISO 400, 1/50 second, it's plenty of light to take some photos as well. If you're someone who likes shooting all your photos as ISO 100, 1/125, and f/5.6, it won't quite be bright enough. And if you're in the Godox system, it has the built-in receiver for controlling and triggering the flash, which is great.
@@NewLayer Thanks for clarifying even better here. Maybe still easier to setup a stand & softbox for the AD200 and have it ready, and use my Amaran 672 LEDs to complement the UL150... And I'll save some money :-)
Yep, I talk about them in my original studio setup video here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q08F5Aerasw.html I've since moved and set up an all new studio office, which I covered again here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-q08F5Aerasw.html
I don't have this light anymore to confirm, but I'm 99% sure it's 1/16. It should be listed on retailer websites or on Godox's website at the very least.
@@chrisbeemedia4038 I wish I still had it to check because I swear I remember seeing 1/16 on it, but the Godox website shows 1/8 as well, so maybe I'm crazy. If you find someone that has one to confirm, please let me know.
@@chrisbeemedia4038 The website says 1/8, but the user manual PDF says 1/16! www.godox.com/EN/InstructionManual/Godox_FV150_FV200_20210319.pdf I am still very confident it goes to 1/16, but again, let me know if you find out for sure :)
Not that I know of. If anyone knows, I would love to hear it. Obviously a lot of flashes have modeling lamps, but they don't come close to the versatility, accuracy, and brightness of something like this. This is a fantastic video light, and an OK flash. It would be awesome to one day have a single unit that was great at both.
@@bigdogpound1253 Definitely. On one hand, I love going into my gear closet and seeing tons of stuff to play with. On the other, it's not really practical to only use 10% of the gear that I own on a regular basis 😅
Someone mentioned the Rotolight Neo 2, which I forgot about, but it is nowhere near the brightness. It's a totally different form factor and usage in my eyes. The Rotolight AEOS is closer to being able to do what the FV series does, so you could take a look at that :)
Hi, can you please confirm for me that this light will work from 100vac to 240 vac (auto volt)? This is a game changer for me! I can use it everywhere I go, north America (110 vac), or Philippines (220 vac).
This is my favorite Godox light so far. I really like units where the power and controls are built into the head unit. And lucky you should ask about a battery! I have been testing this one, and it's been AMAZING: amzn.to/2TpBrPJ Works for up to 300W of continuous power if using 2 lights (so you could use 2 FV150 at 100% power), and works with any lights that have a standard 110V AC adapter. I'll be doing a full video on it, and maybe comparing it to a smaller, more portable one, ASAP.
Do you know how this light would do in a setting with a HighSpeed Camera? I'm looking for a good... "no flicker" option, that can be pretty versatile in other areas of film.
Depends how high speed you’re talking I, but I’ve used it up to 240fps and experienced no flicker. I don’t have the ability to go any higher than that to test :)
Jon Pitman Thanks! I covered the VL, SL II, and UL series individually too if you haven’t seen those. Plus 1 big comparison video comparing all 5 Godox light series at once 👌
@@NewLayer I haven't seen those. Thanks, I'll check them out. I'm currently looking for smaller and lighter weight replacements for my Pixapro S300D LED continuous lights, which are amazing, but heavy and large. VL200 and FV200 fit the bill and budget, though I'm still looking into the weight figures for them because Godox's website is not clear on whether their weight values are for the light only or for everything that comes in the box like cables, remote, etc. Waiting to hear back from Godox and EssentialPhoto.co.uk on those.
@@NewLayer Cool. I haven't used that model but know that I'm very impressed with the two S300D models I have. They have a separate power pack/adapter but unlike the Godox VL200, it comes with a light stand clamp that is built into the power pack so you don't have it dangling from your light stand and ~64,000 lux @1m which is an excellent brightness for me as I almost always use them with double diffused soft boxes. The mains lead is super long too so often no need for an extension lead and you can still move them about a lot without one.
Jon Pitman Nice! I am excited to get mine. It’ll be my first Pixapro product. My NiceFoto HA-3300B II also has a controller clamp so it attaches to the light stand. Much better than dangling for sure! Be careful on the lux measurements though. Those are always with the stock reflector, which is different on every manufacturer. That’s one of the reasons I made my light comparison tool, because manufacturer provided specs are always embellished like that. Like the VL200 is 75,000 lux with their reflector at 1 meter, but 8470 lux bare bulb, which is really the only way to fairly compare lights from different brands.
If the lights don't beep in flash mode when they are recycled and ready to fire, how do you know when they're ready? Does the app tell you? Do the lights have LEDs that blink when they're ready or does it tell you on their LCD screens at all?
Jon Pitman There is a light (actually a backlit button) on the back that turns off when you fire, and back on when it’s ready. It’s not insanely fast, but plenty quick for me and very consistent. I think in this video I test fire the unit with the trigger button and you can see how quick it recycles by when the light comes back on.
The FV150/200 are daylight only so you cannot change the color temperature. But yes, you can set multiple lights to the same channel/group and control them simultaneously.
Do you mean the FV200 and SL200? All the 200 watt Godox continuous lights are the same brightness. You can compare most of them here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Godox+FV200&light2=Godox+SL200W+II
Giving incorrect information here when using the unit in studio. The strobes power does not follow the typical ambient formula of F8@250 = 5.6@500 etc. The aperture is constant no matter what the speed if there is no light spill, it does not change (as long as you are under the sync speed or using hi speed sync)
Brightness can be represented from a certain distance in Lux, EV, or F-Stops at a given ISO/shutter speed. What I'm sharing is solely brightness, irrespective of sync speed. At 1 meter, 640 lux = ISO100, f/2.2, 1/50 sec. 640 lux also = ISO400, f/4.5, 1/50 sec. 640 lux ALSO = ISO800, f/3.2, 1/200
Would you be able to compare the flash capabilities on this to the Godox AD200pro, AD400pro, or AD600pro? And where would it sit in comparison to the Godox VL150, VL200, or VL300?
I'm not much of a strobe guy, and don't have those, but Rob Hall did a video on that subject. Tell him I sent you ;) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kflGbngdy1I.html
Hey lovely people. Quick two questions. My remote control for Godox FV150 support only on and off function and switching a channels, all other functions as controlling a brightness of the lamp are not supported (as my Amazon seller told me , this is normal). Also when my lamp is powered and I turn it off with remote control, my cooling system (Fan) never going off. It can go for hours until I unplug it from the power source. Any of this is normal? This my first lamp and I'm a beginner so please advice. Sorry for my English
The remote should definitely control the brightness in continuous mode, but not the flash functionality. To control the flash, you need a Godox trigger like the X1, X2, or XPro. If the remote is not working in continuous mode, make sure you're on the right channel AND group and try again. And yes, turning the light "off" with the remote basically just sets the brightness to 0%, so the fan will continue to run until you flip the power switch on the back of the unit off. That is normal, although is something I wish Godox would change, that way you can leave the light plugged in and ready to use with the click of the power on the remote :-/
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. I currently have 2 SL-200. We mostly were doing RU-vid videos but now we got signed on to do some more professional work and I am looking to get another light for backfill as the client wants a clean bright look. Do you know if this light is brighter than the SL-200? Also trying to decide between the VL-200 and FV-2000. We do still photography but it isn't a focus but I figure it is worth the extra $90, plus the transmitter to go with the FV if they are essentially the same as continuous lights.
The brightness on the SL and FV200 is/should be pretty much identical. If there's a difference it'll be 1/10 of a stop of something. The fans are quieter and the build quality is top notch. I find myself reaching for my FV200 every time unless I need something very specific. I'll be reviewing the VL200 and comparing the 2 as soon as it arrives, so hopefully a couple weeks. I would imagine as far as brightness goes, they will be very similar, but the VL lights will be more "portable" overall. Although... I have what I think is a very good portability solution for the SL and FV series that I'll be testing hopefully this weekend. Another video on that in the future too :) If you pick up any more lights, I'd highly appreciate if you used some of my links. Any affiliate commissions I get REALLY helps the channel :)
Glad you liked it! I am borderline obsessed with the FV series lights. We'll see if that changes once the VL series is readily available :) I purposefully didn't mention it, because I used the Paul C Buff Vagabond mini, which is meant for traditional flash units, not continuous lights. This light doesn't work quite the same way, so there may be a risk of damage. HOWEVER, I have an item on the way that might be a super awesome portable power source. It arrives Thursday and I'll be reviewing it ASAP!
@@NewLayer speaking of the battery, the VL series comes with the possibility of the battery pack. Do you have experience of the godox VL series? It would be fantastic to have a comparison of the two series (SL150 vs VL 150).
@@lacenaepronta Got them on the way right now :) I mentioned it in my latest video, but I'm also testing another portable power station that can easily power 2 150W LED video lights (like the SL150), plus more. I think it's a better option than integrated v-mount in some cases. Here's the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IlRu_khLvOI.html I'll be doing a review on that in the near future too!
The FV150 is going to be less than 1/3 stop dimmer than the original SL200, so essentially the same brightness in continuous mode, then you get the 2 extra stops of brightness in flash mode.
@@NewLayer Thanks for the quick reply and great videos. I got two SL200 and sold one to get the FV150 because of the flash and also according to another reviewer, he claims the FV150 has much better color accuracy (he has a fancy sekonic meter) than the SL200. Do you agree with that? Also, you got a new sub! :)
@@shaolin95 The newer generations of Godox lights have marginally better color rendering accuracy. The more important thing is that they are closer to the advertised 5600K than the old lights 👍
These lights don't support v-mount batteries, but you could use portable power stations. I did a video on that here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cCSrE10mCDg.html Otherwise, you'd need lights with v-mount support. I did a video on v-mount batteries as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LWLDVyeuUNE.html
Thanks for the helpful video. I am just wondering if the noise would be noticeable if it is used for recording of instrument (violin, piano, etc) audition?
I doubt it. My PC is in the same room as where I film and is louder than my light, and even that doesn't show up in the audio of my videos. If you're recording an instrument, you would typically mic it so closely that there would be even less of a chance of picking up the fan noise. If you're really worried, there are lights where you can turn the fan completely off: Godox SL150W II (coming very soon), Nanlite Forza 60, Godox UL150 (coming soon), Pixel C220, and some others. I think the SL150W II is going to be the go-to budget light that still has a lot of power. I'll be posting my review of that very soon, so if $339ish is not out of your price range, I would wait for that :)
Thanks for another super helpful video. I’m curious if you have ever tried the genaray endeavor 33k 150w light? I heard it’s really good, and also has a v mount option It’s more pricey for me than the godox, since I can’t get it off of Ali express like the godox, But if it’s a better quality light for video, I would Go for it. I need to light up a 10x4 foot space, and would want the light to be strong enough to illuminate through a 48” softbox
I did the SL150W II here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AptjD9MPfv0.html The 200 is the same but 1/2 stop brighter. You can see my real-world measurements to compare the two here: newlayer.com/gear/lights/compare?light1=Godox+SL200W+II&light2=Godox+SL150W+II Hope that helps :)
I didn't mention it because I used a Paul C. Buff Vagabond Mini, which is not meant for continuous lighting sources. Even though this is a "flash", it doesn't work like a traditional flash bulb, so I can't recommend doing what I did. I have been researching different options for high capacity portable power for basically any continuous LED light though. I'll definitely post a video once I find something I'm happy with!
No problem! Don’t wanna sound like a chump, but I’d really appreciate if you used my Amazon link if possible. It really does help a to. In supporting the channel :)
FV is better in that it has flash functionality. SL II series is better in that it has "fan off" mode at 35% brightness. So it just comes down to which of those things matter to you, and what prices are currently at. Other than that they are the same COB chip and same build etc. Hope that helps :)
@@sailovesbeauty1987 As far as softness goes, they'll all be the same for the most part. The softness comes from the modifier/softboxes you use, rather than the light itself. If you want soft light, you definitely want to get a softbox or collapsible beauty dish. These are my favorites: geni.us/glowbeautydish25silver geni.us/glowbeautydish34silver geni.us/glowbeautydish42silver geni.us/laofasbeautydish60 geni.us/laofasbeautydish85 geni.us/laofasbeautydish105 Same thing, 2 different brands. Hope that helps :)
I've found it impossible to find an actual flash duration on these, probably because they work a bit differently than a regular flash. It is fast enough to freeze something like someone jumping up in the air from a stand still, but not things much faster than that.
@@spector175 Awesome! I'm excited for you. If you get it from Amazon, I would be forever grateful if you used my affiliate link: amzn.to/2SDsGQQ It will help me get more products to review in the future :) Let me know how you like it once you've had some time to play with it!
Not this one. If you want a battery powered Godox option, you'll want to look at the ML60, VL150/200/300, or UL60/150. I did videos on most of those if you want to check them out!
Yes it’s definitely a video light with some decent photo capabilities, but a good strobe will always be a better choice for photographers. If you mainly do video and occasionally some photos, it’s a great choice.
@@nightdonutstudio Not really. Some flashes have modeling lamps, but they aren't bright enough for video work. The Godox FV series really is the best hybrid out there. If it's not bright enough for your photos, you'll have to use strobes for photo and another light for video. Maybe in the future there will be a better hybrid...
@@rassventure I highly recommend the Nanlite FS-150 for a basic beginner studio light: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NRn84iErwQA.html It's super bright, built well, relatively quiet, and very inexpensive Vs. other 150 watt lights. Hope that helps :)
For photography? The strobe would dominate this light hands down. The flash capabilities of this light are a nice little bonus, but it's definitely a continuous light first. If you're shooting a lot of video, and occasionally indoor studio photos, then I think a couple FV200s could be a good choice.
I did a video covering the SL, SL II, FV, VL, and UL series here that should help you decide :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2DEuihHpJ00.html
Nice review, #Godox make cool products. Bad thing, Godox fun noise is just terrible - on set when recording and filming a classical musician it is a pain in the neck. And this: it's maybe be personal feeling but a talking head, showing no emotions is a bit boring, I could even say quite creepy ;)
The only Godox lights that have loud fans now are the original SL series. All the newer lights are much quieter, or imperceptibly silent. The FV series is totally fine for talking head stuff, and I used it for a long time for my videos without any issues. The SL II and VL series are almost totally silent (or silent with the fan off), and obviously the UL series has no fan. The ML60 is even quieter than SL II and VL, so Godox has gone from the loudest fans to some of the quietest fans on the market. Filming a classical musician you definitely want the SL150W II and turn the fan off, or get the UL150, which is the only truly, completely silent 150 watt light you can buy.
@@NewLayer Great! Thanks a lot for detailed response! I've been trying in the past the old gear that had a noisy fan and abandoned it along the way. Really great to know they have upgraded to a better solution.
i bought the pixel line the pixel m8 flashes get the job done for cheap i got 3 on amazon for 70 dollars and i do 3 light set ups the pixel c100's gets me good wedding videos so i will pass
Don Gerra Marco Pixe makes some great lights too! I have a C220 that I want to review and share, but don’t want to do 2 COB light reviews back to back. It’s coming though 😁
I was testing the high speed sync at its max of 1/8000 of a second, and ISO 400 was the proper setting for wide open at f/2.8. Not sure why that's so funny.
@@onceuponarob LOL I was just joking. This video was from 2020 before any of that really even existed. If it was that good I'd seriously consider switching, because it'd save me TONS of time.
