Great show Scott, was 19 below Crystal Falls Mi, this morning! Your last blog hit home with me about cell phones, would like flags with picture of cell phone and red slash through phone, we need to get others to stop using them while driving, was in Orlando 2 weeks ago counted 3 out of five drivers with one in hand on average, this is getting to be our most dangerous problem out there. someone make them and I'll by 2 for my gl 1500!
Those are "Rudy's Keepers" - goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=9503 Unfortunately, Ric (Rudy) who produced them, passed away a number of years ago.
Interesting comment regarding the age of the tyres. I recently purchased (May 2024) a 2000 year GL1500 SE model here in the U.K. On checking both tyres were dated 2011, the rear tyre had plenty of tread and looked in serviceable condition. The front tyre though had numerous fine cracks on both of the sidewalls. Decided to replace both tyres with Avon Cobra Chrome. They where purchased from the same supplier, the front tyre has a date code of 0524 (Feb 2024), so literally only a few months old. The rear tyre was date coded 1323 (Mar 2023), so this ‘new’ tyre just over a year old at the time of posting this comment.
Great info on GL 1500 having 2 starter relays. Fyi. Seems to be what your using in this video. Which is what I have. Your explanation helped in a big way. If anything happens although I'm not mechanicly inclined. I won't panic since I have an idea what the problem might be. Also didnt know bike does not have a starter solenoid. This is my 1st Goldwing and I'm grateful for your help on making me familiar with what I have. Great Work. Will pass your channel to fellow friend who's buying g a goldwing soon. 👍👏👊
Hello Scott, thanks for the video. I find that putting about half of the air psi in the shocks both front and back lowers mine just a tad. I can put my foot flat on the pavement. Have a great day!
For sure, that air is "preload" - which helps offset for added weight. Removing some of it will increase sag, which means the bike is lower to the ground - you lose some suspension travel, of course.
When you order new tires you must get new tires, simple as that. There is however a test from a German institute. They tested new and 5 years old (unused) Metzeler tires. They drove them first on normal roads for 200 km and then went on a racetrack to be driven by a professional racer. Came out that there was no significant difference. Now I don't know if this counts for other brands. So at least use your eyes and look at the fabrication date and the total condition of the tire. Look for cracks, wear spots, tread, pressure, etc. (PS I have no connection or any profit by naming the tire brand, I don't even have them on my bike at the moment)😎👊
Scott, I have this “phobia” 😊 about my cables (throttle brakes etc...) breaking on the road. I could not find any video that explains the process of replacement or temporary fixes. If you ever think of addressing this topic that would be great. GW 1800 - 2008- Thanks much
Scott, thanks for you being there for us, as I watch your videos I noticed you have what I believe to be weights on the end of your handle bars. Are these extensions part of the grips, or actually a type of counter weight? If they are a weight, do they really help? I have to admit I have seen them on other bikes, but very few. My next question is on a belly pan, will one help my 97 1500? Is it worth trying to find one?
Scott, one question: On the GL1500s, At which gear is good for slow speed cruising? What I mean is on my 96 SE Motor Trike I usually shift out of 3rd around 35-38 mph then use 4th mostly up to at least 50 or even 55...(I do a lot of cruising in the 40-55 MPH range) less than 50 MPH in OD I feel as tho I may be lugging it, but I have a lot more bike as well with the motor trike kit. I'm thinkin I want the RPM above 2000 at most speeds when cruising Is it OK to cruise in 4th up to 50-55 or so? What gears do you use/recommend?
Keep in mind that the torque curve on the six-cylinder Wings gives you a ton of power at low RPM's. While you don't want to lug the engines, don't be afraid to shift up and run the engine at a lower RPM than you think would normally be OK. 50 MPH in fifth gear on the 1500 is definitely not lugging it on a normal bike. Of course, this all changes with weight and environment. Carrying a lot of passenger/baggage, or a trike like you have? Going up a hill? You need to judge for yourself whether it's lugging or not. Generally speaking, if you're feeling cylinder pulse vibration from the engine, you probably need to downshift.
Hello everyone, I have a noise on my recently purchased gl1200. Almost sounds like a knock in the motor but it is a noticeable clunk that I can feel, only happens around 2500 rpm’s. Doesn’t happen at idle or anything over 3k rpm’s. Happens in gear, in neutral, clutch in, and clutch out. Weird thing when it’s happening in gear the bike is real sluggish through about 3k rpm’s and then it just takes off suddenly with no throttle change. My guess is a fuel issue, but I’m not familiar with these bikes at all and it’s actually my first carbureted bike so i don’t know if they need to be retuned for cold weather maybe? I should also mention it didn’t do this when I first bought it about 2 weeks ago, everything ran great.
Great episode, would also like you to talk about a 2001 1800 rectifier. I'm having trouble getting it unplugged. Is it also possible to desoulder it and resoulder the new one.
Funny…I went to a Harley dealership yesterday to watch a contest they had. I sat on a road king and told my wife the only thing I like better is the Seat height 😳
There's a reason for that: forward controls. When you kick your feet way out in front, you can lower the seat. On a motorcycle with a conventional seating position, with feet below you, you can't lower the seat like a Harley!
@@GoldwingDocs never thought of it that way 👍 I’ve seen several Harleys scrape around corners and the goldwing is begging to lean even more. Too bad they didn’t make the DCT in 2008. My bike would be perfect!
I have a 2004 Goldwing GL1800 I had a issue with my starter. I backed it out of my shop and drove it around the block. when I came back in the shop i switched off the ignition but the starter was running!! I switched the bike back on then off again. The starter still ran. I had to disconnect the battery cable to get the starter to stop. I left it until the next day and reconnected the battery cable, the starter did not run. The starter issue didn't happen again!! what could have caused the running starter???
What causes my goldwing to die. It just shuts off just dies backfires and then won't start I have to pull #4 plug wire put screwdriver in wire plug and then hold it to motor while pushing start button to be able to start it.
Hi, my question is on my 1983 gl1100 interstate, is it true that if the carbs need rebuilt I’ve been told the only two ways to to clean them is untrasonic cleaner or boil it out. Can it be cleaned properly by hand? Thank you. Dan Mercer.
If they're really bad, like full of varnish or rust, ultrasonic/boil. If they're not too bad you can clean by hand. Done both my Shadow and Gl1100 by hand without a problem during rebuilds.
Scott I have an 83 Goldwing that I can't get started iv set the timing over and over set the valves twice it's getting fire to the plugs and all the plugs are firing it's getting gas I've checked the firing order a dozen times it will spin over sometimes fast but as soon as it tries to start it stops spinning like its out of time I'm lost can you help been trying for weeks, I have five Goldwings and have never had this problem with any of the others thanks
Scotty I have a question to you my man. I created a new cellphone holder for Honda Goldwing Gl1500 and Gl1800 can you help me to post on your Chanel and website, please?
Uh . . .no. A solenoid is a switch operated by electromagnetism. You are describing a solenoid which ALSO operates the Bendix (GM style), but the vast majority of solenoids (even most starter solenoids) don't do this. There IS a starter solenoid on a Goldwing -- you're calling it a relay, which is pretty much the same thing (like the difference between a bolt and a screw). Without that solenoid, they would have to use a much higher current switch and fat cables to and from that switch. Fat red cable goes from the battery to the solenoid, then another fat cable from the solenoid to the starter. Thin wires go from battery to starter switch, then to the solenoid pull-in. Hit the starter switch, the solenoid pulls in, and contact is made on the high-current (fat cable) circuit. The starter needs this heavy current flow to do its job. BTW, just about every non-GM most car uses the starter motor torque to engage the Bendix. On older Fords, the starter solenoid is bolted to the fender closest to the battery (which is on the same side of the car as the starter).
Sorry, but if you do some research on solenoids, you're going to find that you're wrong. A solenoid is an electromagnet-operated mechanical device. It is normally used to operate mechanical things - door locks, actuators, and in the case of cars, to engage the starter spline with a flywheel. In that application, it also happens to engage a switch when it is at full extension. An electromagnet that does nothing except operate electrical contacts is called a relay, not a solenoid.
@@GoldwingDocs THANK YOU SCOTT for getting it right! Even Honda calls the relays "solenoids" in many of their manuals. Weird. One of those mostly insignificant little things that just bugs me. If nothing is popping out the end then it ain't a solenoid.
On the solenoid that is not exactly right,the Starter Drive often called the bendix, engages the flywheel, the plunger operated by the magnetism of the Solenoid causes all the previous to take place. I just found out on an 88 GL 1500 that if the solenoid goes bad it can also cause the starter to continue spinning, key on , Or Off
Sorry, you're incorrect. This is not a car. Motorcycles don't have a flywheel that is engaged by a starter like a car. The solenoid is just a high-current relay, on the right side of the bike. The starter is separate from the solenoid, and is permanently connected to the engine via a one-way sprag clutch. There is no plunger, flywheel, or bendix. Because the starter is connected to the engine via a one-way sprag clutch, it can spin continuously while the engine is running without damaging it (although it will get very hot).
@@GoldwingDocs the solenoid switch on a motorcycle still acts like the one on a car you are the one who is wrong it is a magnetic device that causes power to go from one side to the other one completing the same circuit that it does only car the only difference is there is no flywheel you are the one who is incorrect
@@cliffray1683 You must realize that you're trying to debate this with someone who actually TEACHES this stuff, and knows these motorcycles inside out, right? I was going to reply politely, but seeing as you're unable to discuss this politely and instead insist that you know best, let me explain to you very simply why you have no idea what you're talking about: A solenoid is a device that uses an electromagnetic coil to induce movement in an actuator. That actuator provides mechanical energy. In practice, solenoids are used in many devices - door locks, vending machines, industrial machines - and AUTOMOBILE starters. IN A CAR, the solenoid is used to push the starter gear into contact with the flywheel. Once the starter gear has fully meshed with the flywheel of the car, the outward movement of that starter gear closes a CONTACTOR which then supplies current to the starter motor. In a motorcycle, there is NO SOLENOID. The starter motor is PERMANENTLY CONNECTED to the engine via the sprag clutch. What you are mistakenly calling a "solenoid" is actually just a high-current relay. A relay is a device that uses electromagnetic energy to close a set of contacts, so that a small amount of current can switch a higher current circuit. In the case of the GL1500, there are two of them. You press the starter button on the GL1500, it supplies current to the coil of starter relay A, which closes and supplies higher current to the much larger starter relay B, which closes and supplies VERY high current to the starter motor. These relays are completely separate from the starter motor, which is located in a physically different place in the motorcycle. The starter motor is just that - an electric motor. NO solenoids. Uninformed people who don't know what they're talking about still talk about the "solenoid" in their motorcycle, because that's what they're used to calling it in a car. But what they actually mean is STARTER RELAY, because again, there is NO SOLENOID in your motorcycle.
@@GoldwingDocs also I guess I should have been clear when I was talkin about the solenoid engaging the starter Drive I meant that's what happens on a car not on the bike
