Getting ready to reshaft some of my dad's old irons with nippon modus 3 tour 120s. I have been watching all your informative videos, you have basically a full training course here for free. I appreciate it very much. Thank you!
This by far is the best channel on RU-vid when comes to club building. You give great detail on methods and procedures. I love how you give us choices as to which tools can effectively get a particular task done. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
This was a huge help since I just lost my driver head. But I won’t be building clubs over the winter lol, Thank you On a side note, this video took me back to college. Next public speaking assignment, 30 minute presentation. You got an A lol
I enjoy your videos. Another alternative is 3M Scotchweld DP 810. You have about 7 minutes of work time and it cures enough to work on it in 20 mins. It's about twice the price of the Tour Set epoxy, but it is great epoxy. One thing that bothers me about all the reshafting vids on RU-vid (not yours) is I see these guys quickly drill out a dirty hosel with a drill bit and a brush bit, bang it on the bench and say it's clean. In my experience, often when a customer has an epoxy failure and I pull the shaft, I can see the bits of old epoxy that remained in the hosel when the builder glued it. The builder often blames the epoxy, but the failure was due to a poor bond by not having a clean metal parts. Todays epoxies are so good, way better than 20 years ago. Clean hosel and a properly prepped shaft that's also clean, that are the correct size, almost never fail if the epoxy was mixed and handled properly.
Great video. I just recently built my first set of clubs and bought the tour set syringes. Definitely agree with the ratios being finnicky because of the the dual syringe. The first test club i ended up building had incorrect ratios as it took forever to set. I found it help to just turn the syringe on its side and just push out the 2 individually and just make sure pushed them out in equal 1 inch lines. Had no problems after that. Also thank you for the tip on leaving the ring left by the tour set for 10 minutes and peeling it off as opposed to trying to wipe it off rught away while its very sticky
I use 24 hour cure JB Weld steel epoxy. Beads are never needed (unless the fit is so sloppy you should probably not fit it at all). My only concern is that it's so good I worry about the day I may need to remove a head! Another nice thing about JB Weld is that it's always available at a store near you for about half the price of "golf" epoxy.
The "grey" regular JB is the strongest. It may have a fine powder aluminum or steel filler - not sure? Adding golf beads 5% of epoxy volume, as recommended, would help center the club for better precision.
95% of the time I use the 24 hour club epoxy as there is no rush. Has always worked well. Also include shafting beads when mixing. For the remaining when club is needed fast use the quick set stuff.
I try to start off or end with a summary. Sometimes ends up on the cutting room floor when trying to keep everything short. Will work on keeping them in more often. Thanks for the support!
Your vid’s are very helpful… Thank you very much for sharing your expertise. I was wondering, is there an epoxy specifically for shaft extensions or is it the same as for shaft to club head. 30/60 vs 24hr… is one better than the other for extensions? I just picked up a matching serial# set, 1-LW, of ping eye 2 BeCu’s, that I need to extend about a 1/2” hence my coming across this vid. Also, you mentioned working for Golf Smith… A buddy made me a set of XPC3 Nickel bronze 3-LW back in 1998. They are my clubs that I play to this day. I was told the XPC 3’s were supposed to be clones of the BeCu’s. Do you know if that is true or not? Keep up the great content and thank you again.
What Epoxy would you recommend to re-attach the Crown of a TaylorMade SIM Max driver? I think the Crown is made of Carbon Fiber and the Driver Frame is made of High Strength Aluminum. The crown has popped off.
Thanks for this. I bought 20/20 epoxy to install a new driver shaft into a new hosel but I didn't get beads. Shaft hasn't showed up yet but should I put something on the end of shaft to stop epoxy travelling inside as it is slow cure ?
A small amount of epoxy inside the shaft is fine. Just don't want large amounts that can travel too far up the shaft. The hole is used to vent air during install, so it's better to not cover it and just not use more epoxy than necessary.
Any golf epoxy will work for graphite or steel. That won't matter. Though if you aren't actually making contact with anything, you could probably go with some other epoxies, but I still think it's safer to use a golf specific one that has some elasticity.
I know the bottles will sometimes say they have a shelf life of 1 or 2 years but I have found if stored correctly, they should keep working fine. If in doubt I would say either buy new or mix up a batch in a cup and see if it does what it's supposed to.
No, but I rarely use it. Usually failures come from incomplete mixing and or rushing to get the club together before the epoxy hardens. Quick set does have a lower breakdown temp and lap sheer strength so it will be more likely to fail than longer set time epoxy.
I applied too much heat to extract a very stubborn Burner Bubble 2 shaft on an original Burner 5 wood. It heat melted through to the shaft--damaging it. The puller just wouldn't extract it neatly. How can one know whether too much heat is being applied? I used a heat gun.
At the end of the day, certain clubs just won't break apart easily and you may end up trashing the shaft. It just happens sometimes. Especially with older clubs, it's a crap shoot what kind of epoxy was used or what exact method to bond the club together. Also older graphite shafts are more prone to fray apart. I think this was less about you doing anything wrong and more just being one of those clubs!
I do what I can do. Although I don’t do a lot, basically just my own, I have only had one graphite shaft bite the dust. But Ai explain to everybody I replace shafts for, shit happens.
What is the exact epoxy name you use? I think I see the GolfWorks logo just not sure. There are multiple “Tour Set” epoxy tubes. I’m looking for the 30/60 Tour Set Epoxy from the video, thanks and great content much appreciated.
@@frankhuber4714 I like the beads personally but it will do the job either way. Beads just help center the shaft in the hosel if the fit is slightly loose.
@@frankhuber4714 You can buy a dispenser that's more like a caulk gun if you plan on doing a good bit of work. Otherwise, the tube should come with the plunger. I can't say I've ever seen it without. Did you get it from Golfworks? I would call them.
@@fernandoliniers6249 I would not trust the structural integrity after reglueing the face. Honestly I don't trust TM driver integrity right out of the box with all the stories I've heard. Golfers breaking 3, 4, 5 driver heads!
@@EFGMC Thank you for that info. I have a set of Mizuno MP-19 irons I want to pull the shafts and send the heads to get re-chromed. They special because those were my first set of irons. :)
@@EFGMC none of those are 24 hour epoxies. According to their website, Tour Set has a gel time of 12 minutes and cures to playing strength in 60-90 mins.. and Tour set plus is 25-35 gel time and cures 60-90... this is why I am confused. The only 24 hour I see on their website is the “EZ pour” and there is no information on the psi strength
Sorry, was doing 2 things at same time when I responded the first time. This is the 24h epoxy, aka tour strength. www.golfworks.com/golfworks-epoxy-8oz/p/epx/ Also be aware that although they say their Tour Set is 60-90 minutes, unless you are working in hot climate or heat cure it, it takes much longer than 90 minutes, seems like 4 hours at 70 degrees.
@@EFGMC it’s all good man. I just called golfworks to confirm the psi and breakdown temperature and they claimed the Tour Set was 3000 psi and the Tour Set Plus was 4000.... even though they say they are the same “bonding characteristics” on the website. They said EPX was 3000 psi... no info on break temperature though. Any advice for what to use in a driving iron with graphite shaft? I don’t want to damage shaft when heating if I decide to tip or remove head at later time.. also trying to add an adapter to my wood shaft.
