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Just ordered a Stake too. I've had a LiveView Pro camera and a Selfie Golf holder for a few years. This looks much better. Maybe do a video on a "best" app for filming your golf swing. Thx
The thing I've noticed is club makers chasing distance, because this has become such a numbers game. Launch angle, swing speed, distance carry... A 7-iron now hits as far as a 5-iron did 15 years ago. What's wrong with that? It means you need a bag full of gap wedges to fill in for all the scenarios under 170 yrds. So that advertised set price is misleading because you are paying for clubs you don't need (4 and 5 iron) and does not include the wedges or fairway woods you probably do need.
Counter balancing is such a weird misunderstood area of club building. Works for me, especially driver and putter. I think a nice control group test would be to add weight back into the head of the 105cb. Ping uses CB to add length and add head weight to their drivers
I experimented with butt weights with carpenters nails I got some 6 inch 4 inch 2 inch nails and simply pushed it through the hole in grip really quick and cheap way to do it just go to range with bag of nails and some pliers to pull out if need to change from lighter to heavier once you’re happy with the weight either get some proper weights installed or do what I do just paint the nails black and leave em in can hardly notice them then be great to see you do a video on this
One trick I use with compressed air is to take 120 grit sand paper and lightly sand the masking tape (I actually use painters tape). Then I clean the sanding dust off with some alcohol on a shop/paper towel. This removes a good portion of the slick shiny surface from the tape and provides some "tooth" to the tape so the soft rubber has something to bite onto.
Good day and thank you for the video Haven't regripped a club in 30years what's the best solvent to use in your opinion? And no i don't have an air compressor. I do but it's a, very tiny one for airbrushing rc models so might not be powerful enough(how powerful must they be?)
I came across this video and find it a great way to check my lie angles. I use a single plane swing similar to DeChambeau. With this flatter swing, do you think that I would benefit with a couple of degrees flatter lie angle?
120 has been my nemesis since switching to the zx7 irons. The set didn’t have a gap wedge and I decided to just go by degrees so I got a 50 degree wedge. In theory this wedge should be perfect but my pitching wedge goes 130 and my 50 goes 110 unless I really think big full swing. Now I’m thinking I’ll get the srixon gap wedge that matches the irons , then use my 52 and get a 56.. call it a day. Obviously I’ll have to try the srixon gap wedge to see if it does give me that 120 number or close to it. Thank you for this video
Thank you for the video. You have a great channel and can communicate and educate with expertise. Now for my rant…I grew up in the 70s and 80s and none of these attributes of our equipment were a thing that we had access to. Due to injuries. I stepped away from golf 15 years ago when all this analytical data was nonexistent for the common folk like it is now on RU-vid. Now, I’m coming back to golf and I find myself paralyzed with the amount of data that the golf market says is critical to my performance. This is crazy to me! Jack Nicholas and Arnold Palmer never had this kind of data and I think we can all agree that they did pretty good. I understand that technically all these things can make our swing feel better but if your swing is not a good one you will not score better. If it consistently takes you two chips and three putts no cool shaft, expensive grip or counterweight is going to make a difference. Yet I find myself unable to stop feeling like this crap is important. I’m off to get a club fitting later on today.😢
Hi there, I am a clubfitter myself and thinking about switching to the system. I have a few questions. 1) When you drill out the hosel, the wall thickness gets reduced. Did you experience problems with that where the hosel is very small and does that influence the ability to bend lie/loft of the irons? 2) Did you experience problems with the screw thread? Regarding the conex system that we use the weakest chain is the screw thread. What is it for the all-fit? 3) Do you experience broken hosels for very fast players? Another remark: different heads have different hosel depths and diameters, that would mean that drilling out would also result in different head weight differences... You probably need to adjust how much to drill out for every head seperatly, right? Thanks already! Loved your video!
Jumbo grips prevent me from working the ball & tapered grips prevent me from getting a solid grip on the club. Everything that's supposed to be game improvement does the opposite for me. I enjoy standard thin grips. My old driver had a cheap amazon grip on it that i performed the best with
I've seen you iron shaft weight test and your X100 driver video and saw that you don't really find much speed difference even when going between very light and very heavy shaft, but why is it then that even very fast and skilled players like tour pros still will mostly use for example lighter graphite shafts in their driving irons rather than just their iron set shaft?
Regarding issue #3, Use an unfinished grip and compare the length. Something else regarding keeping everything aligned before putting the grip on, fix your club in your vice so the grooves are in the position you want to see when you look down on the club in a standard position.
I played golf this morning wearing my Garmin Approach S12 watch. While I don't know how much it weighs I do know this - I hit the same number of good and crappy shots I normally hit.
I've gone back to a Titleist 983k and am hitting it 15yds further than my 2022 driver. The smaller head cuts through the air better than the modern balloons on a stick
Related, what's the swing weight effect of installing on the ends of clubs performance tracking tags such as those of Shot Scope? They weigh about 4 grams each.
@@EFGMC Greetings, I want to change my shafts to my Taylormade speedblades and I don't know what size they are. If you could help me, I would greatly appreciate it since I don't know much about the subject.Thank you very much for your quick response
I started playing in 1983 with a set of “Premiere” clubs by Browning, a brand not familiar with for golf equipment but the same company made shotguns and pistols. The 1W, 3W and 5W had very small (by todays standards) stainless steel heads and steel shafts, but back then the pros were still using Persimmon. It was the period when clubs and balls were evolving. PING had just introduced its PING EYE2 irons to replace the original PING marketed in 1963 and two-piece polymer balls introduced in the mid-70s by Topflight had largely replaced the rubber band wound Balata covered balls in the bags of most recreational golfers who didn’t try to shape shots. When carbon shafts and higher volume titanium heads started the replace Persimmon the marketing cited the fact that a carbon fiber shaft twists less when subjected to the torque of the club head mass trying to twist the shaft because of how it is attached at the heel and being able to tailor flex where on the shaft the flex occurs to the golfer’s swing speed and desired flight pattern. Starting in 2008 when I retired and went to work part time at a course for the perk of unlimited range and rounds I started buy old sets of irons and more modern Drivers like Callaway Big Bertha with different shafts and lofts to experiment with. As my swing speed increased with practice I found myself “out-swinging” R shaft drivers which would bend and twist the head uncontrollably. Changing to a S shaft better matched my swing speed. I found a Driver with an XS shaft and it felt like I was swinging a broom handle because I didn’t know how to generate enough downward momentum in the hands at the end of the backswing to reverse the club head mass and move its energy into the bent shaft and maintain the bend on the way down. Experimenting I learned the cause and effect of shaft bend. To maintain the bend and load in the shaft the golfer needs to keep the hands accelerating and pulling against club head inertia. The point where the velocity of the club head exceed the velocity of the hands in the downswing is the point where the bend created at the top is lost and with it the stored kinetic energy. The more desirable action in terms of physic and energy is to maintain the bend in the shaft deep into the swing until it starts to whip around the hands, at which point the club head mass accelerates so much it will start to bend the shaft forward to the point of snapping the head off at the hosel of the back foot doesn’t lift to get hips, shoulders, arms and hands moving again. I snapped the heads off of irons and Drivers experimenting with that cause and effect. The takeaway I got from it was that some degree of shaft bend back and forward increased club head speed. The bowing forward in react to it being held bent backwards adds acceleration to the club head mass a swing with an already straightened shaft or too stiff to bend club does. But too much bend in to flexible a shaft will result in torque induced twisting of the face open and closes which becomes an unpredictable variable in the swing, especially with short irons and wedges which are used with varying swing arcs and club head speeds.
How about CHOKING DOWN on your club? (like Brooke Henderson) … does that act as a counter-balance as well? And what about grip WRAPS? 🤔 I’ve been using Alien Pros wraps on my clubs. I like the feel, doesn’t get slippery if wet or sweaty. Have you tried them? Also, I see more and more LONGER GRIPS on PUTTERS, and players choking down (sometimes almost to the shaft). And how about fat vs thinner putter grips? 🤷🏼♂️ I’ve always used what feels comfortable.
Is the heavier watch a gps watch? Did not appear to be. If not, as a practical matter, why include it in the experiment? Also with the 40 gram back weight the ball seemed to back up farther on the green than with any of the other setups.
I still use a taylor made steel 200 with a s300 shaft............... wouldn't change it for the world, I own another with a grafally blue stiff and it goes ffurther but not anywhere near as consistant.