This is my buyer's guide on one of my project cars, a 2007 Hyundai Getz 1.4. In this video I go through why you should (or shouldn't) buy a Getz and what to look for when you are buying one and also what to pay for one.
I bought my 2006 Hyundai Getz just a couple of weeks ago. It had 87,000 km in the Odometer but when I took it in for servicing, there wasn't anything wrong with it. Still feels brand new. It just feels like a cheap but reliable and simple to use car.
Sounds good, I have a 2012 Ford focus with 89,000 kilometers and the steering rack failed then the heater core and now the camshaft position sensor needed replacing along with a engine mount and brake discs and pads, it already uses some engine oil lol,looks like hyundai is better quality than ford.....
Here from my 2010 Kia Rio JB 1.4 petrol. Basically the same car with a ton of interchangeable parts. It's a dream to work on and service. Tons of space and simple design (no direct injection, turbos or intercoolers etc). The only real fix I've had to do is change the clutch slave cylinder due to water ingress under the rubber boot which led to pitting and pressure loss. My only personal gripe I have is the 1.4 g4ee petrol engine isn't the best motorway cruiser. 70mph is around 3200 rpm, a tad noisy.
Definitely looking at adding a JB to the Carshare fleet. Size and practicality plus they seem to be cheaper in manual guise especially than the equivalent Getz. Glad to hear you are liking yours, the Getz also cruised at 100km/h at 3000rpm and it was a bit on the noisy side. Economy was good though even with the noise.
Awesome little vehicle... NOT A COASTAL VEHICLE! Rust right down into the ground! Front Suspension Crossmember ( Subframe ) - Lower Control Arms - underneath the boot / trunk in the spare wheel area - rust very badly ... Regarding the engine with ( manual ) transmission it holds up pretty well ...
There's been a couple I have seen with that kind of rust, especially underneath on the front crossmember. If they are poorly repaired, especially if the accident happened when they were young, it exacerbates the problem.
It is pretty good but the alternator is in a cun*t of a place to get at. Body work really good I have a 2006 1.1. The only problems were some rust on the rear hatch and rear wheel arches but easily fixed. Economical and pretty nippy for a 1.1 nice car to drive. The suspension is a bit spongy. Pretty OK space inside. The dome light is a total disaster take a torch into the car if you need to see anything at night. I have become quite fond of her she is called Candy.
Check the top of the intake manifold. On a SOHC Getz, that's where it is in the diagram. Alternatively, put your VIN into Partsouq or Catcar and the diagram will be there showing its exact location for your car as there were some minor changes mechanically between 2003-2005 model years cars and 2006-on cars (like the one in the video).
They don't have a temperature gauge unfortunately. They show cold temperature or hot temperature icons. Definitely an oversight there, especially if you have a dodgy thermostat.
For windows misting up try to clean or replace the pollen filter (located behind the glove compartment, take the glove compartment out, there are 2 filters slotted into the air intake right in line with the fan.) Rust? Not mine, after 17 years. Undersealing is of course a good idea now and again.
It seems like corrosion and Getzes tend to be more linked to climate having looked at more since I did the video. Wetter climates seem to be much harder on them than drier climates like in most cheaper cars.
@@dickesbalu Only a handful of Aussie Getzs don't have A/C and specified accordingly, it was an option only for the first 2003 model year XLs with the 1.3 SOHC engine. Majority did have air optioned on them, I am yet to find one that hasn't got air. A lot of European cars didn't have air as standard as some were especially basic and were particularly popular in Southern Europe (my relatives in Greece drive Getzs even after 16 years and many, many km).
