Thank you, GM, for failing to be quick and concise. All tangents were appreciated. I do not have a DD wheel (yet), so I learned quite a bit about setting it up in the future.
Good video! What I've said to others as an analogy, think of the the FFB setting on the wheelbase(or Fanalab's "[FF] Overall FFB Strength") as the level of dynamic range and the in-sim FFB adjustment, "Strength" in iRacing, as the volume dial. You want as much dynamic range as possible from your wheel. But you don't want it to clip or rip your arms off so you turn down the volume in the sim. Seems to help but to each their own...
1 - MAKE SURE YOUR GAME IS NOT CLIPPING MOST SIMS HAVE A UI ELIMENT THAT SHOWS YOU IF IT IS + YOU CAN ALSO FEEL IF FFB IS CLIPPING AS THE FFB LOSES DETAIL / FEELS LIKE A CONSTANT UNCHANGING FORCE. ( sometimes small spikes of clipping can happen this is not really an issue but you may want to reduce ffb to not have that happen) 2 - From my experience the Fanatec DD wheels like to be run at higher FFB on the wheel base / you get more detail running wheel on high setting and game on a lower setting than vice versa , that said the detail you get from lower settings on the wheel is still fantastic and way less of a difference than what you get from say one sims FFB to another due to developers FFB choices with the game. 3 - The Settings in this video are good settings to start with I'm not saying they are "the best" settings but they will feel great with most sims Especaily the FEI at 70 and the INT at 2 EN: 900 FF: 35 LIN: OFF NDP: 20 NFR: Off NIN: OFF INT :02 FEI: 70 FOR: 100 SPR: OFF DPR: 100 BLI: 90 SHO : 70 MPS : AUTO If the wheel feels overactive / too springy and jumpy then turn up the NDP if the car / wheel feels too slugish heavy then turn down the NDP. Correction for the video - LIN mode basically just caps the DD 1 at 15nm max torque (DD2 20nm) so that the FFB out put is never above the given wheels holding torque.
Running FFB high on the wheel and low in the game is dangerous in some sims when you crash so I don't even run it in high torque mode so take this into account as my settings are FF: 80 LIN: OFF NDP: 08 NFR: 06 NIN: 02 INT : 04 FEI: 90. The NFR and NIN just make it feel closer to a real car's steering rack but you can dial them out. I find INT below 4 too grainy although maybe not with the amount of NDP you are using but you should really lower your NDP as having it that high will probably make it impossible to catch slides.
@@GamerMuscleVideosYes my current thrustmaster dx wheelbase has done a great job for me ever since AC came out on consoles. Since i'm very bad with computers and all the other abilities needed to run these bases, these videos makes me sleep a little better. But i know the community is very freindly and helpful so im not too worried😂. Ordered 3 wheels 2 pedal sets 1 base and a shitload of habengut. Keep 'em coming mastermind👍
And your thinking why the f%#@$ did'nt he use my affiliation link. Well i walk around in a perpetual haze and daze, did'nt realize you had that partnership but i will use it in the future for their upcoming cockpit and bmw gt3 wheel if it becomes available for xbox1
Lol you won't get the teabag edition of the DD that makes you crash into people mid corner ☕. Be good to have you in the community races , another target to hit !
as a DD1 user myself i kind of disagree with some of this and i guess that's ok as were all different but particularly about the ''force feedback'' setting where you set it between 25 and 35 and then adjust in game... i think this is technically speaking the wrong way to do it because a lot of clipping comes actually from the in game signal being sent to the wheel, you mentioned detail and i think this is exactly why, so for example if we take ACC and set the game ''gain'' to 70 and the DD to 35 you will see your bar in the lower right hand corner turning red on heavy bumps which indicates clipping from the game, if you turn the in game gain down to around 55 maybe just a smidge below that you will find ALL of the clipping is then eliminated and it stays clipping free even if you set your DD wheelbase to 100 because the signal being sent from game is where the clipping occurs i find. so besides everything else which is personal preference for feel i do think you are much better off using higher DD base settings and lower in game gain settings. ( this is strictly for ACC as far as my knowledge goes since its my main ) my personal settings are actually around 55 gain in game (ACC) and then i set the DD base to around the 80 mark but turn linearity on which keeps everything on a somewhat flat line for feedback without huge jolts but still being pretty strong. turning linearity off does let the DD stretch its legs ofcourse but we want it strong and controllable instead of strong but can break you on big curbs. i find with linearity on aswell i can turn the interpolation lower and FEI higher which brings all the details on the road and curbs through nicely. thanks for the video my man. happy racing.
I literally said in the video , fanatec wheels work better with the wheel on higher. Setting it to 35 is a good thing to do first time you load a SIM / as a start point , I was operating from the assumption that people would set the sims up such that they are not clipping , I perhaps should have made that more clear I have made it more obvouse in the top comment.
@@GamerMuscleVideos yeh i gotchya, you did touch on that when you said you think there is more detail at higher DD settings i was just pointing out my observations with the clipping and basically adding to what you said mate. :)
@@jinx20001 if you check out Ari's Drives Channel he uses base on 100%. And if anyone should know it's him lol. Although I agree it doesn't make sense as you would expect having the game give you all the information then tuning down what you want with the wheel is logical but I use Aris's set up and I love it . Going to add James's set up to a preset and give it a whirl.
@@rickwales5140 bro if you watched aris's video's as much as you say you do you would know by now he uses 100% FFB in game not on the base because he is experimenting with clipping, it is his job and he has said this... watch more of his content, its good.
I got the Podium F1 back in December. I mostly play Gran Turismo Sport, hope to enter the world of serious Sims when i get a proper gaming PC someday. After 2 months on the DD haven't found settings I love. Started with with Fanatec recommended setting for GTS which I did not like at all. Searched forums and found a few better settings and been running adequate settings for about a month. Today I gave your settings a go for about 3 hours and I must say I really like it a lot and is pretty close to what I think I want. Thanks so much for the very helpful video.
Spent some more time playing GTSport today with these setting. Turning off all the dampers & such really helped. Don't have the sluggish, lazy feeling I had with previous settings. Direct Drive now feels DIRECT is best way I can describe the difference.
great video GM, I'm looking at purchasing a DD1 this year as an upgrade from g29. I have some testing on dd1 (Rick Wales is my dad) but knowing what actual FFB feels like is a mystery. we could set the dd1 to feel like a g29 but we know it shouldn't. This video made so much sense when you look at each individual part. i feel you do in game settings video (either quick 3-4mins each game of a dedicated video for each game) otherwise the actual wheel setting don't mean much if the game isn't telling the dd the correct information. keep up the great work and happy tea drinking
Had a t300rs for 8 years, plug and play and absolutely amazing. Never needed a setting tweak. Had a DD1 for about a year now, still feels like trash and needs new setting adjustments for every game. So far I’ve spent 95% of my time in settings and 5% actually driving. I’ve tried EVERYTHING. Let’s hope this works!
Great video James. You confirm what Aris ( Ari's Drives ) says . High settings on wheel, lower in game. I would love to know your in game too. I am only planning on driving AC ( literally just set this all up with CM in weekend ) , ACC and PC2. although Aris's ACC settings are real good I do struggle with PC2 settings . Maybe if you don't want to make a video how about just posting them on your Insta page. Cheers my beautiful bald buddy.
This one is going out to the RU-vid people (maybe the wrong place, but here we go): While watching this 22 min video I got five (!!!) advertising interruptions! I do understand that YT is earning their money that way. But please be aware that people like me will one day completely stop watching RU-vid once you overdo it. This was clearly too much, even if I can skip the adverts. Sorry James for hijacking your chat, I just felt like I had to vocalise that right away. Keep up the good work for as long as I´m watching. ;)
It's not RU-vidrs , RU-vid as going mental with auto add placement. I only want 1 add in a video of it's under 10 minutes maybe 2 adds if it's 15+ min and there is a good place for another add. Problem is RU-vid don't just put the adds in when you upload the video they seem to change it after video is uploaded. So RU-vidrs then have to go in and manually check older videos. Hopefully RU-vid get the message and chill out with it , lots of RU-vidrs have been complaining.n
You're right! I tried these settings today and they are great! For Raceroom and a few other sims I just added about 15 NDP for less oscillation and it feels excellent. Thanks mate, really helpful. May I ask what in-game settings you use for AMS2? I mainly drive GT3 & GT4.
Brilliant you should speak to Fanatec about a job to explain things clearly like you did with this tutorial, great settings as base to start from and has helped my racing from what I just tried compared to the settings I did have, a massive thank you.
I'm playing the sims 3 and these setting aren't working, could it be cause painting Fanatec on side of my TMX isn't enough... Should I try a different paint? 🤣
Can you do settings for the DD+ there’s no pdf down load on Fanatec’s for the Manuel. I did see the dd pro Manuel on there but the abbreviated settings in the base are different
Hey man I am getting a steal of a deal on this exact setup. I'm a first time sim racer with a PS5, therefore I'm struggling to decide which I will enjoy more - F1 or ACC. I'm leaning toward ACC bc I think it offers more diversity. Any thoughts or recommendation would be appreciated 🙏🏽
thanks, havent even watched yet, but I'm so discouraged that my wheel seems like it has gotten worse and worse feeling over the past 6 months with every new update. here's to hoping this helps
@@GamerMuscleVideos thank you! I was just watching now and got to that part and a light bulb went off! I think this is it. I play ACC and I can feel like “ticks” on a gear as I turn the wheel. I’ll give this a shot tonight and report back. Thanks again!
I’m having a heck of a time with this indy car and oscillations. It feels like no matter what setting I go for if I don’t have 100 percent grip on the wheel it just goes crazy. I’ve settled down nascar rides with NDP but this Indy car just won’t settle down.
I just got my DD2 and have been shopping around for settings, I noticed bad oscillations in iRacing using the Dallara P217 what corrected it was setting the dynamic FFB damper up from 50-70 world of difference no longer fighting the FFB now!!
Got the same experience according to the ffb power percentage and really don’t get why all the recommended settings by fanatec are low on base and higher in game. Exactly as you say, higher on base gives more experience. That said there is a sweetspot, most of the time you won’t go higher as 80% on base as you can overdue. Strange but true.
It's interesting as now that I have hooked up a Bass Shaker, I can now dial down my wheel FFB to be more natural in feel. A real car doesn't have that much FFB in the wheel.
Hello I tested your setup with iracing. I improved by 0.5 seconds in the GT3. Fanatec's support is bad, the setup for iracing is not useful I thank you very much, keep it up
THANK YOU SO MUCH!! Playing ACC on the PS5 my fastest lap at Barcelona was 1:46.064 average race pace high 1:47’s. Within 3 laps of using these setting I managed a 1:45.7 and within my first race clocked a 1:45.1 race pace now high 45’s low 46’s. I literally can feel the tires and so much detail that I couldn’t before! Racing behind people is really comfortable where as before I was literally on the edge the whole time A huge thank you as I’ve been looking for tenths of a second for ages changing settings here there and everywhere. My experience has now gone to the next level….so I’m going to ask if these aren’t your settings for ACC I beg you to tell me what are you settings 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
@@GamerMuscleVideos Sorry, I should've specified iracing, yes. And absolutely, I can generally squeeze an extra 4/10ths out of the 911 cup car by running that software. I'd never heard of it before I saw you speak of it, thanks!
Yes well said GM, ACC lacks that dynamic feeling that AC and RF2 deliver to the driving experience. Still the fan boys of ACC will continue to live in denial about ACC’s shortcomings! 😆
@@GamerMuscleVideos lol no worries sim still very much in early stages “2yrs” not to mention a pandemic. Tire model has gotta alot better! and will continue to improve. how old is iracing and they seem to pull it off perfect. 😂. acc will only build on the platform they have. & in time the bandwagons will follow. BTW i don’t disagree! everyone know rf2 tyre model is insane. but sure seem like throwing acc under the bus cause sim tyre model isn’t at the level of ac or rf2.
Regarding NDP, Natural dampner I have to totally disagree. In fact you are wrong. This is not really subjective for people starting out and most certainly should not be turned off for AMS2 unless you are already expert at making specific dampner settings within the game for individual cars. Just a single lap in any car at any track will reveal just how awful the feeling and control of the car is with this turned off as opposed to setting this at 25 for example. You have been warned.
Linearity mode is about scaling the FFB so peaks don't clip when many FFB events are happening at once. It is not about removing peaks - it's about allowing peaks by keeping the max FFB somewhat lower using sampling by the wheel's software. So, no the peak mode is not "more realistic" - it can be less consistent and give confusing information if the FFB is hitting the limits. FEI and Peak/Linear work together.
If you use the wheel for an extensive amount of time with all the settings you will find that you get more response using Lin mode along with other settings , especially if not running the wheel at 100% power ( for obvouse reasons) and to be honest almost noone runs this wheel at 100% power when simracing. Specifically when using Lin mode you will notice the wheel at the making of this video would have less peaks and less responsive ffb to sharp jolts , so regardless of what it's ment to do I'm saying what it did do at the making of this video. Also litrally noone is going to be getting "confused" from the nature of the FFB using peak mode or lin mode. The differences in each games FFB is more pronounced from the aspect of driving a car in a game than using ether lin or peak mode. Also running the wheel in peak mode gives it a response and feel much closer to small mage and simucube 2 wheels and real cars I have driven. Fanatec have updated drivers a few times since this video and I think they have also tweaked some aspects of how the Lin mode operates.
If you set Sensitivity to “AUTO” it will automatically match the wheel rotation on a per car basis in all games..no? Does that not work anymore? I always kinda wonder.
Nice video but this settings for me don’t work at all in ACC it feels like the car is on ice, unable to catch any slide. Anybody have a better experience with this setting in assetto corsa competizione?
ACC just has really uninformative FFB , compared to AC1,RF2 and even iracing with iRFFB. ACC GT3 cars tend to have a ton of grip and then slide for a while if you go over the limit. End if the day no FFB settings can add to a games FFB , unless the wheel.generates it's own ffb from telemetry through its drivers like acuforce wheels foundation FFB.
Ok super mad love if anyone can answer my question! I just ordered a dd1 and got the WRC wheel (its was like one of the only wheels left in stock) and found out I guess it can only run in low torque mode? So is that 50% of full or what? And if so, should i rush to replace the wheel because ill feel wanting more right away? What id do is crank the feedback up to what ever the max (low) torque setting is, and be just fin with FH5 and some newer sim games?
For it to run in full torque mode with the DD1 Wheelbase you need the quick release adapter and take off the plastic one with an alan key and replace with the more premium metal quick release. Think its €99.95. The regular plastic one that comes with the wheel has a little groove which tells the wheelbase which format wheel its running and whether its capable of running full torque or not. Should feel great on FH5. I’m waiting on that as well
@@zaiinw2365 what low mode should feel great on FH5? I can't find anywhere where it says how limiting it is in that mode. I mean don't most people run it turned down a tad anyways? I'm debating if I should get another where they have is stock the r300. I know that will work but will I be ok playing FH5 or Corsa for the mean time with that wrc wheel or should I ditch that for sure.
I just got a DD1 and it works perfect with Iracing but it will not work at all in ACC without compatibility mode and even then, the LEDs wont work and I have no idea what to do. Is there something I am missing to run it in normal pc mode??
@@GamerMuscleVideos i was able to get things working in comparability mode with other forums. Everything is up to date. Do you use your directly in PC mode?
Yeah you said it at the beginning . What YOU think. And I tried your settings multiple times. And they are bad. Always. You claim you have so much experience with ffb. Let me tell you something. As long you haven't driving a real sports cars you are nothing to me with your all so mighty real feel ffb settings.
First of all, I like your videos but these settings are completely mental.. Do not listen to this opinion about setting the wheel base to 900… absolute madness. Every esports driver has it at 270 for example, having 900 rotation on a formula car is laughable dude and it’s the wrong advice for people looking to learn.. you own a podium wheel & base so don’t run it under 50 ffb strength, unless your 8 or a girl, power steering is 40
Wheel rotation is down to the game / car and it being 1-1 with game so if game is 900 and your wheel is 900 it's the same as 270 and game 270 , (especially if there is no simulated bump stop basically input will just stop after x rotation or you will be plowing fronts so you wouldn't put more input in anyways. what would really matter in that case is in game steering lock , or in some cases a person might want to run a not 1-1 ratio but that would largely be considered incorrect. Your thing about ffb strength it's totally down to a person and what they want so long as you can feel dynamic range from a game which is really anything over 5Nm with most sims. As for girl strength a have a few female friends that are stronger than me and you could run 20Nm on a DD but enjoy rsi if you do that for a long time. Also you might not know this but many real world race cars actually have really light steering around 8-14Nm and lots of cars the driver can set the power steering strength. Some cars do have super heavy stearing in real life , Indy car , radical SR3 Many vintage cars. Even with real cars that have x strength a simracer might want to run weeker or stronger for different reasons.
